GTRNUR

Sorry... sold and shipped.

Yes thats it. Its for my open deck engine prototype. Im not fitting the engine at my workshop as I dont have a hoist or engine crane. Plus its hard work i'd rather not do myself. I'll be paying someone else to do the spanner work of fitting the new engine, so I only want to have to pay for that once. I've got the standard engine mounts and just need to come up with a way of rubber mounting the back of the bell housing. I have a couple of 65x25 box section steel lengths to make the frame out of. I think i'll set it up to bolt to the concrete floor with ramset bolts so it doesnt go walking around the garage when its running.

Nice work! I like the dash cover too. Where did you source that from?

Loading it up isnt a priority. I just want to see it run, idle and not leak or cross contaminate oil and water.

Its really just for my open deck engine prototype. I was planing on pressure testing the water side of the engine with compressed air to 1 bar and use a gauge to see if it bleeds air overnight to spot any leaks before attempting to start it full of water. I figure running it a few times before going to the expense and effort of putting it in the car could potentially save me having to pull it out again in case I have issues and need to pull it down to change something.

Yeah water brake was what I was thinking too, but it would be boiling pretty quickly if 3000 RPM were held for 10 minutes at WOT. Im not too concerned about loading up for this first rig. I just want to run the engine a few times before I put it in the car. Perhaps long term if I start building engines for a living I'll have some engineering firm build me something to do the job.

Thanks thats the info I was hoping to hear. VL stuff is cheap and everywhere. The starter motor pinion alignment should line up with pretty much any aftermarket flywheel right? Or do I need to get a VL flex plate and ring gear as well? It would be great to be able to load up the engine too, to bed in the rings etc but thats a little beyond what Im capable of building at this stage. I'd have no idea where to source something that would work as a load as well. I just want to hot run the engine till the cooling system is up to 100 degress and then check the engine for cooling system and oil leaks.

Hi Everyone, Im thinking of building an engine test rig to allow an RB engine to be started outside of the car and run till hot etc. Ive done this sort of thing before with other engines, but never with an RB. I figured I could source a bell housing from some transmission(I have no idea which one is even removable) with a starter motor and then just source a loom to suit the CAS sensor setup im running. Ive got a couple of spare radiators so cooling isnt an issue. If anyone has some thoughts, suggestions or pictures to share it would be appreciated. Cheers, Ian

Here's another update with my big little engine project. I spent last weekend installing cams, rocker covers and assembling the intake manifold and throttle body setup. The external oil feed for the head is now connected too. The picture shows a standard RB26 timing belt on the engine which is too short. Ive sourced a suitable length belt from an audi 80 series that solves that problem. Twin tensioners are used to allow the cams to be positioned properly at 0 degree's. My high octane sump extension is being welded on this week and the pair of GTRS's should arrive fairly soon too with any luck, so not long till its finished now.

Great looking exhaust you have there. I like how it eliminates the need for a front pipe too. Its hard to get better than Nismo.

What have you got left from the original post? A mate wants your the R34 Nismo exhaust if you still have it.

This is the wrong way to build the engine. The RB25 pistons have a lower compression height than the RB30 pistons, so they will be down the block about 0.5mm. The pistons have an 14cc dome on the top of them too. Assuming you deck the block to 0 thou you would have a cr of around 9.8:1, possibly higher if you have the head skimmed to make it dead flat. Not machining the block to 0 thou deck would give you a little more chamber volume but this would also make the engine more prone to detonation as the sqush pads in the head are way too far away from the squish area on the pistons to make the combustion chamber efficent. The ideal engine has a 0 deck height and a 0.040" (1mm) head gasket. Then set your desired CR using dished pistons after having your head cc'd. Using RB30 pistons gets you close to 8:1 depending on your head cc. You should read the PDF file, it covers the options for piston choice.

Great suspension, probably the best setup you can get for the street and even light track duties. I have the same suspension im my R34 GTR. The GTT suspension fits R33 and R34 GTR's too.

Are you sure youve been bleeding out all the air from the coolant system properly? Even without coolant it should be sitting on 85 degrees when cruising. Check your service manual on locating the air bleeds on your engine and bleed it thouraghly. You should be using distilled water to, not tap water. Once you get the temps under control drain a little coolant from the top hose, tip in some redline water wetter coolant concentrate and top up. Your thermo fan has no effect above about 80km/h when cruising, so it wont be that. Your car is new enough that i doubt its a radiator blockage too.

It comes down to how you try and drive them too. You cant drive a twin plate (nismo or other) like a normal clutch. They just wont becuase they grip so well. If you try and slip the clutch a little when pullng away from the lights the clutch plates will grab and slip rapidly as the springs load up and release. This makes a terrible sound not to mention this eats up your plates quickly. The way I drive with a twin plate in traffic is to bring the revs up a little more than you would if you were driving with a normal clutch, then let up the quickly but get off the accelerator so clutch engagement slows engine speed. With practice you can get the car rolling and have the engine speed around 1000 rpm with the clutch fully engaged then drive normally. Granted you cant do this in bumper to bumper traffic and it tends to piss off tailgaters because you cant ride the ass of the car in front of you, but it does make your driving a lot smoother to the point that unless your passenger is watching what your doing they wont even pickup on it.

Anything not running is only worth the parts in it. If it has been run then everything is 2nd hand and then its anyone's guess what its worth. As for what its worth... An R34 bare block with cradle is about $500 worth. They are basicly the same as an R32/R33 block unless it says 24U on the side of it. You need to know more about the internals to work out what the rest is worth. Las of all since its obviously not assembled and running it would need to be disassembled, cleaned and inspected and then re-assembled to ensure everything is ok as well.

You mentioned a Spool 3.4 engine. Do you have some inside news that their product us close to being release?

Yeah thats the goal. Cheap capacity, 87x87 though so its 3.1Lt. I looked at other stroker engine kits before starting this project but they all pissed me off becuase they all cost so much and are designed for stupid amounts of power. There is no middle ground between an RB26 and a OS30 1400HP engine. And the 2.8 lt kits arent really 2.8lt so the $8k+ they cost is a big pill to swallow. I dont see the value in them. This will end up costing me about the same as a 8-900hp RB30 conversion would, but it wont have any fitment issues and will pass for stock a lot easier than an RB30 would... except for the big oil sump that is. One more pic. This one is putting a smile on my face

All going well I hope to have the engine in the car in 4 weeks, run in and test drive to Warwick in north NSW late october around the 20th. If you have a means of getting there yeah ill let you go for a lap. Another update... The cylinder head is on at last and torqued to spec. From the pics you can see the custom spacer plate and base plate gasket. Ive blocked the front oil supply to the head and run an external feed to the head via a -3 fitting that goes into the side of the spacer plate. This was done for a couple of reasons. Reliability being one, but also this eliminates the need for an oil restrictor as the plate is drilled with a 1.5mm hole to act as the restrictor. Head studs are all 1/2" ARP. Im using a Nitto drag 88x 1.2mm metal head gasket. The dowels that locate the head/spacerplate/block are single piece dowel and interference fit the block and then 0 thou slip fit the head to ensure its going nowhere. Ive ordered a Hi Octane sump extension today. Hope to have that welded onto a sump inside a week. Still waiting on an intake manifold gasket too as my Nissan genuine one arrived broken. Hopefully have a pair of GTRS's for it soon too. Cheers, Ian

Here's another update of my 3.1lt big little engine prototype. Ive completed the final assembly of the bottom end over the weekend. The block is a partially grout filled RB26 05u block, modified RB30 crank(drilled+screwed, balanced, modifed rod journels and slotted for oil squirters), pauter billet rods with 19mm bearings, custom wiseco's with 22mm gudgens and non-interference valve pockets, acl bearings, and dartron sleeves. Here are a few pics. Cheers, Ian

You couldnt have a better clutch for streetability that can handle that kind of punishment. You could add another 100kw before you'd be taxing the upper limits of that clutch.

Do people really have problems with using the N1 pump in street cars? I ran one in my R33 gtr and it would sit nicely on 82 degrees regardless of weather I was stuck in traffic or flogging the tits off it. This is in summer in Cairns too, where I rarely see the air intake temps get below 45-50 degrees in the middle of the day. The only other thing done to the cooling system was an 40mm PWR radiator. It still ran a standard clutch fan and standard shroud. It was fitted with a lot of new foam seals to stop the air leaks.

Thanks Beer Baron. Time has come to add some more power to the R34. I'd been thinking of doing this for a very long time, infact the idea happened around the time I bought the R34 from you. The head im using on the first prototype is a vspec 2 R34 head. It will end up with a pair of poncams in it at the most, and maybe valve springs. The goal of this engine isnt massive power. Its to have a very wide torque band. Im hoping for +150nm off boost over an RB26 accross the entire rev range with more or less stock kind of boost response. Considering how the GTRS's perform on a 3lt RB30 I think my extra 100cc and shorter rod ratio will probably achieve that. I had considered 2530's on the engine but they would probably TOO responsive and have no legs after around 7000 rpm. This engine will still rev safely to 8500, valve springs being the limit. These sleeves are about 6-7mm at the top of the flange where they seal to the head. They arent flats. Sleeves with flats are only needed for very high power levels, and im not wanting more than 650-700hp at the flywheel from this engine. A sleeve thickness of 6-7mm is still good for 200hp/cylinder with ease. Also you'd be interested in knowing the average wall thickness of the 05u blocks ive looked at is only around 2.8-3mm. Ive tested 4 so far. Ive heard the 24u blocks arent's necessarily any better either. The block I posted a picture of broke through to the water galleries on every cylinder when bored to 92mm for the sleeves, in line with the welsh plugs. Fortunatly the block is partially grout filled and the sleeves are o-ringed at the base so water leaks arent an issue. I used a tight crush and loctite sleeve retainer on the sleeves as well. With a keyed sleeves, the added contact surface area between the sleeve and head reduce the chances of the head moving around under extreme cylinder pressures. I dealt with that issue by having long dowels that go from the head through the spacer plate and into the block, and used 1/2" head stud and machined the head for them in such a way that I could have left out the dowels and there wouldnt have been any movement anyway. All machined to 0 thou. Keyed sleeves arent necessarily able to withstand any more extreme pressure than a round sleeve. After all the sleeves still have the same thinnest area between the cylinders. If a keyed sleeve were to ever fail under extreme power levels you can be sure it would crack the sleeve at the point between the cylinders as thats the place where the elastacity of the sleeve is at its weakest. I think you'd be pushing a 1000hp nitrous shot into the engine to get it to break the sleeves though, and they'd probably be the last thing that would let go too. The second prototype that im building will be using 10mm keyed sleeves and will be built for over 1000hp, but I need to buy a good R32 GTR to setup for drags to run that in first. Im not turning my R34 into a drag car. I like how it corners too much to do that to it.

Well here's my latest project. All the machining is finished at last and im just waiting on a couple more parts. Its a stroked 3.1lt open deck engine. The goal is a massively wide torque band and around 450awkw with a pair of GTRS's.

Bad ground. Check you have at least 2 good grounds from the engine to the chassis. Loosen them off, give them a wiggle and tightten them up again. A bad earth causes the ignitor to not be able to switch max current to the coils. It can also cause the ignitor to burn out as the earth signal drifts around.