GTRNUR

Bad ground. Check you have at least 2 good grounds from the engine to the chassis. Loosen them off, give them a wiggle and tightten them up again. A bad earth causes the ignitor to not be able to switch max current to the coils. It can also cause the ignitor to burn out as the earth signal drifts around.

Its very impressive heading down from the top of the mountain to. So there goes the rest of my evening... watching 92 bathurst footage. The Johnson vs Scaife battle at the start of the race is great. Its like watching Scaife trying to pressure Johnson into making a mistake. Smat move letting him pass. Less taxing following the guy thats setting the pace. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMhj22QLH1Y

Very intersting bit of gear you have there. Can you share some of the details of whats in the kit, size of the crank, rods and pistons etc. There is such a small amount of information around about this kit, and what there is is all in japanese.

My last girlfriend was japanese.... and didnt understand what a GTR was. WTF!!!

Makes you wonder what the old Gibson cars would do with modern tyre technology then, considering the advancements made there in the last 10+ years.

Yep, only Nismo, N1 and NUR have steel wheels. Everything else is ceramic and has a 1 bar limit.

Im curious to know at what point the V8 super cars started lapping bathurst faster than this R32 was back in 1992. I cant remember which year they shortened the main straight too, so I presume it would have been before that due to them running 300k's down conrod straight.

Based on a quick search the Siemans 850's are low impedance injectors, so you can use the factory resistor pack and it will be ok.

Its making boost so it wont be the exhaust. My money is on a rag in the intercooler piping or hopefully not... the plenum.

My ex hated the R33 GTR I used to have and would have hated the R34 too. Every time I drove anywhere I'd have to drive like my mother so she wouldnt get motion sick. Just my luck to have car that can pull over a G while cornering, but should i drive that way the carpet would need steaming.

Hey Bakes, do you have a dyno plot of the torque curve as well with this revised tune?

Yikes! What tolerances did he use on the crank and big ends to achieve that kind of result? And what weight oil... and i assume it was well up to temperature before it was given the big rev right?

Well using the RB26DETT version seem to be much more stable, using all defaut settings and just with the extra inputs for the AUX's being read. At least it hasnt disconnected after the first 10 minutes of driving. I suppose the next thing to do is do another re-initialise and re-lean the idle again to get that under control. I suspect that since the universal version was not very stable it could also explain why the car was idling around 1300 rpm when cold. Thanks for your help guys, Cheers, Ian

Ok, so im looking at the FC file downloads in the yahoo groups and have only seen one called FC_Edit_RB26DETT v1.120.zip that is GTR specific. Is there another area specific to the BNR34 that im just too blind to see? Cheers, Ian

Universal I believe. I should try it with the BNR34 version as well i guess. I'll try download a copy to try on the next drive as well. Cheers, Ian

Thanks for the fast replies. Its the latest version of the FC edit software, default settings for baud rate etc. I dont run the hand controller. Its using an on-board serial port, dell latitude laptop. What had me baffeled is why the same settings for everything work just fine on the R33 GTR... The laptop is set to run flat out, no power management and its running off an invertor. I'll give the lower baud rate a try in a hour or so when I go for another drive and will post back with the results. Cheers, Ian

Hi Guys, Ive been having an issue with tuning my R34 with the FC Datalogit software. For no apparent reason after about 10 minutes of driving the car logging stops. I then have to re-start the logging again. Its like the serial cable has become unplugged, but thats not the case. Ive checked all cabling etc, but better still, used my tuning rig in an R33 GTR with no issues at all. I thought it might have had something to do with that Idle speed auto-learn thing, so ive done a factory reset on the ecu (through the datalogit software) and gone through the warm up, aircon, demister 10 minute processes again. The car does idle too fast when cold as well, so I am wondering if it has something to do with the idle/autolearn process not ever having completed properly. Should I perhaps have done the re-set using the commander hand controller? I havent bothered plugging this thing in, as I tend to do everything via the laptop. Any suggestions? Ian

Depends entirely on the ECU he is using and the type of injector drivers that ecu has. Ecu's that can drive low impedance injectors without a resistor pack can potentially run lower pulse widths as the injector driving current is controlled more precicely. Most if not all big injectors are low impedance and would require a resistor pack if your using a power fc or something simular.

You must post a video of it screaming at 9000 rpm. RB20's with big singles sound great at full noise.

That marine grade fuse block looks good. Ive had issues with the narva fuse blocks before. Running a thermo fan off a circuit has on occasion melted the plastic of the block without the fuse blowing. This happened due to a failing thermo fan. I would have preferred the fuse had just blown though. Also these spade connection fuse blocks are easy to hook up, but the connection itself is not very reliable and over time a little movement combined with current flow tends to open up the spade connection. THen you get arcing, heat and melting again. I solder everything now. Even if its crimped first. Then heat shrink it and forget about it. Chasing wiring faults in custom wired cars is a nightmare.

Welcome mate. Nice fabrication work though. If you dont use it im sure someone with an RB25DE head on their RB30 would use it. They are aparently the same intake port size.

Just a opinion... but the whole point of multi throttles it to improve instant throttle response. They do this becase the plenum is full of air that is at atmospheric pressure and the moment you crack the throttles there isnt a lag to getting that air into the engine. Where as with a standard manifold the entire manifold is in a vacuum to the single throttle. There is a delay between when the throttle is opened and when the vacuum is equalised. The length of that delay is determined by the size of your intake piping, intercooler and air filter. Multi throttles will have no affect at all on improving boost response. Two other considerations. You have a small displacement per cylinder engine there with some fairly reasonable camshafts. Factor in the porting and its safe to say that the idle vacuum isnt going to be all that strong. It will get a lot worse with the multi throttle setup. To give you an idea, I had a 2.4lt engine using multi-throttles and 260 cams and it would pull -10inHG at idle, not -20 like a stock RB20. Now this has 2 effects. One is that your brake booster isnt as effective when your driving in traffic as it doesnt get a good vacuum unless your downshifting to slow down and the RPM gets up to something decent. The other side affect is that if your tuning with a MAP based ECU, you will find the off boost load points a lot harder to get right. This isnt an issue if its using a MAF air sensor though. Single throttle setup is a lot easier to make "streetable". If that doesnt matter and its an all out race car then go with the multi-throttle setup.

I'd be interested in knowing what the power output of the engine is as it is right now. If your reving to 9k and are pumping 30lb boost into it, it would have to be pretty close to 475rwhp as it is. Provided you have a decent intercooler and exhaust on it and im sure you do considering the rest of the package.

All ive heard is that the HKS twins are painful. Like all after market clutches there are 'tricks' you have to learn to be able to drive them in traffice smoothly. It can be done too. But, if you try and drive the car like it has a normal clutch in it, you'll hate it and any passengers you have in the car will think you probably only hold an auto license. Nismo would have been a better choice. Once you go nismo you dont even try anything else. They are that good.

Yes NEO's use a diferent plug. For the GTR's, the plug is the same on them all. Yes the CAS wiring is diferent. The power wiring is diferent too, something to do with the X-relay when igniton is on and also when cranking but I cant remember specifics. Its much easier to get the correct ecu for the job.