GTRNUR

I am still in the process of getting the final parts made for the next two engines. One of the two cylinder heads is ready to go. Ported, oversize valves, 280x11.5 cams, dual springs, the works. The second head is still being made, and in comparison it makes the first one look like stock. I am told it will flow past 1kw with ease. Two crankshafts have been completed and are ready to install. One 87.8mm and one 89.8mm, both with 19mm GTiR journals and clearenced for oil squirters. Two N1 24U Blocks are now partly composite resin filled, and are about to be sleeved and fitted with girdle plates and main caps. Then onto final bore/hone machining once the pistons arrive. I am hopeful that I will be assembling engines early to mid December.

Bump!

Used pair of R35 GTR AP Racing 390mm rotors, mounted with hats and hardware. Just machined today to clean them up. 35.41mm and 34.7mm thickness. Located in Cairns, QLD. $1500 neg + $75 for postage most places in Australia. Ph: 0434 147 478 or message me.

This can only be 2 things. 1. Crack in block (very unlikely though). 2. Head gasket seal issue, allowing water to leak into oil when water temp is nominal. I recall reading your normal engine temp was 70-72 degrees. This tells me a few things. You have a Nismo thermostat, and your lower than normal engine temps are keeping your cooling system pressures down, which makes the leak less apparent. When in fact at all times, the head gasket was leaking between layers between water and oil. When oil was up to temp, it would slowly evaporate the water away which would end up in your catch can and then vented to atmosphere as steam, or consumed by your engine via a breather system. The head gasket leak issue was caused by the embossing in the gasket not properly compressing around the water galleries to seal. This could have been a machining issue from when the block and head were surfaced, or also could be an issue to do with material deformation caused by those heavy head studs. If properly installed, the head stud thread inserts should be recessed about 5mm from the top of the block, such that when torqued up the deck of the block does not deform. I have seen these installed level with the top of the block, by some machinists. Only investigation will tell this tale. My recommendation is to replace the head gasket with a stock one, o-ring the block and have a matching receiver cut into the head. Use a smear of threebond ultra viscous silicon around the water and oil galleries on the gasket, or hylomar spray it both sides. A stock gasket will accept more material deformation than a metal shim one.

These next two engines are about stress testing the design. Both are being built with a 1000+hp power goal in mind. No expense spared, with a focus on maximum strength for all components. Once testing has proved the design holds up for the first engine, the second will become available as the first to ever be sold.

Thanks Dan. Not much to report other than that I am going through E85 like no tomorrow. I must do a video of what the car drives like. There is a little maintenance to catch up on, needs a wheel alignment and balance, but other than that its still going strong. Yes its still a stock getrag for the moment. Basically I'll drive it like this until next year some time when it will get an OS88. The drag strip is still being built, so I wont be breaking the getrag anytime soon. The main focus is on the next two engines now, which will hopefully be finished around November.

Where is xGTRx's dyno result? Post it up and show us what we are missing.

I get that, AND wheel spin from 3500 rpm in a GTR. I'm with you Pete, lag is for those that watch too many internet videos and don't actually drive their car in the real world all that much. I recall driving my old near stock R33 GTR. From the lights a few years back, and shifting below 3500 rpm I was dragged off by a bloody prius taxi! That same car made 270kw on stock turbo's with all the bolt-ons, and was by all accounts what many of you call "responsive". I agree, 300 kw atw is nice, but at 4000 RPM thanks.

I used Ridgecrest once. The tolerances were so far off the gasket was unusable. It seemed his cnc machine had a linearity error, and produced a gasket that moved the dowels centres 1.1mm closer together. The backup service was less than satisfying too, blaming my design as being at fault. Never mind that the same bore and hole centre positions were used to make the block and spacer plate. QLD Gaskets on the other hand, were as accurate as my CNC machined spacer plates and centred perfectly on my 89mm cylinder bores.

Supertech single springs will see my 8k rev limit. Same as Paul and Pete use.

Your right, its not a huge issue, but a larger housing and retarded exhaust cam would have delayed the impact of the valve float a little longer and seen more mid-top end gain. Valve springs are my biggest issue. Paul went through the same thing with his 2.8.

My long awaited RB34 dyno result, while it put me in the 400kw club I was hoping for more. I believe valve spring float in top end caused by weak tomei springs, a reluctance to fiddle with the exhaust cam timing, and too small a hot side turbo housing prevented the top end from continuing to climb on the E85 higher boost levels. The lower boost/98 octane tunes showed power climbing towards 8000. Not so in E85 due to the float issue. Still, above 400kw from 4250 to 6500 makes it a mid range monster. RB34 (3360cc, 90x89) Tomei B Procams (10.25/272) Full race twin scroll, twin 38mm gates, and a Precision 6466 CEA 1.0 E85

I do computer/network management and programming for a living. For the past 10 years I have been primarily supporting engineering firms. From that I have had a lot of exposure to engineering principals, CAD systems and CNC. As well as engineering support from some very clever people. Add to this that I have been building engines of various kinds since before I could hold a license. I've decided to get a set of Supertech valve springs for this current engine to sort out the valve float issue, and hopefully punch through that 500kw atw limit. Then maybe also a switch to an EFR 9180 as well.

Both Nitto 1 and its OS88, and one other R34 that ran a Hollinger up here in Cairns used a custom spec NPC twin plate, setup to handle over 1100hp. Basically what I have in my car, with a different type of spring hub centre. So when you get tired of it, you know where to go. Price was reasonable too.$2920.

Found this on the LS1 forum: http://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/1792075-max-power-holley-12-1800-a-2.html Set your base pressure at 43, boost to 30. Flow at the pump will be abouyt 125Gph = 473lt/h = 7.8lt/min.

Finished the video of the tuning that was completed last weekend: I am considering options to solve the top end power drop off issue, and think that switching to an EFR 9180 could be the answer to gain that top end back not lose too much of the low end grunt. For the moment there are a few minor changes and updates that need to be done, and then I need to get used to the car agian.

Further to the power situation, I lowered the rev limit to 7500 RPM for this session, where it was 8100 for the last session. The power drop off is because the soft cut starts to happen at 7300. Trent wanted to rev it more because the engine certainly wanted to make more power, at least on the lower boost levels. The exhaust housing restriction only started to be evident at higher boost levels, but is also made look worse than it is by the soft cut. I lowered the rev limit for 2 reasons. First twas that I can't think of why I would want to ever rev it that much, as below 7500 there are still two gear choices that throw you in the seat. The second is that the Nitto H beams are using ARP2000 bolts, and I didn't want to go stressing it un-necessarilly. After all, it is a street engine still and I want it to last. At 8000 RPM this engine has the same piston acceleration speeds as an Rb26 at 10,000 RPM. And frankly most RB26's that rev like that don't tend to live very long. The 383kw dyno sheet is of the 98 octane run. There were cleaner runs without that odd dip in the middle, but you get the general idea. Its MAD! Intoxicating to drive and not just from the alcohol. Its so tame to drive at low speeds, happily cruising at 1800 rpm in 6th, but its also making boost at that speed if you put your foot down. Anything over 3500 is rapid acceleration regardless of gear. Even rolling gently into the throttle in 2nd causes full traciton loss. Peak torque must be somewhere between 5000 at 6500, because the rate of rev change at this point becomes extremely quick. I've not been watching the tacho when driving it though. I'll have to do a video at some stage of a drive. Shame there is no tracks up here and they cancelled the sprint series due to damage to the go-cart track. The only options are the training days and a go-woah event at the yearly car show. But construction of the Springmount Dragracing (Andra spec) drag strip will be finished soon. I'd like to be among the first street cars to claim a 10. I must say that I love the smell of the E85 too, along with the note change of how the car sounds at idle now. Back to video editing...

The map sensor is maxed out. It would need a 5 bar sensor to go any further. Running at 27-28 psi leaves little sensor head room to detect a over-boost condition, allowing over boost cut to protect the engine. It was extremely sensitive to very small changes with the haltech boost control. I also believe the head doesnt flow enough for really big power figures. It is a Tomei Genesis stage 2 head. Supposidly good for a 2.8lt at 9000 RPM... I have 600cc more than that. Thats all for this one. It has achieved its goals as a monster of a street engine. It will just be external tweaks here, and then to put some KM on it. Development will continue with this version of spacer plate/sleeve configuration in the next two engines.

6466cea 1.0 hot side. 28lb (maxed 3 bar map sensor). Unfortunatly the RPM signal was not hooked up during the tuning. The gear ratio torque calculation method was used on the last BP98 runs, and that made 712nm. No idea with E85, but safe to say its a lot more.

I'm not sure about that as the dyno wasn't logging RPM. When it had the 18lb gate springs installed it would easily get to 18lb at around 3200. To get some control though, I changed the setup to use twin port boost control with the gates and am using 10lb gate springs instead. This is bringing boost on a little slower, so probably 3500 to 20lb and I have no idea where it gets full boost as my eyes are on the road instead. Pete's setup should be all on around 3500-3700 at most.

Update time again. Today was D day for testing of the engine. New clutch installed, 200lt of E85 at the ready no excuses. After some minor issues were resolved, the 98 octane tune was completed yesterday. With 18lb we reached the knock limit at 384kw/514hp atw on the dyno dynamics AWD dyno. Then this afternoon I drained the tank and filled with the first tank full of E85. Due to the remaining 98 in the lines and tank though the mix ended up being E60. Trent went to work, and after resolving issues with a few intercooler hoses refusing to stay put, 457kw/612hp atw was reached. At this point the map sensor was maxed out (28lb). Also it appeared the 1.0 housing on the 6466 had become a restriction, as power was dropping off in top end. While I didnt reach my 500kw goal Im very happy with the result. It makes positive manifold pressure at 1800 RPM and full boost somewhere around 3200-3300, where it pulls like a mad man to redline. I've got a fair bit of video to put together, so i'll do that in a day or so. In the meantime, a few pictures.

-10's/GTRS's hit full boost around 5000 on a 3lt. 5500ish on a 2.8, or 4500 on a 3.15lt. With the 3.15lt I managed to see 30lb at 4000 rpm once when loading up on a dyno, but you could never achieve that load point on the street, even in 5th or 6th gear.

Aeroflow 250 series black braided Teflon hose or similar is the product to use. Right side puts the surge tank in front of the Attessa reservoir. If you don't mind having to remove the surge tank to check the reservoir, then great.

The instructions for the CEA turbos say to use an AN4 line with no restrictor. I've had no issues with my setup, and it sees between 4-8kg/cm oil pressure. I think the return was an AN10 size.

I think the problem is that those people giving that advice don't have to live in the real world with a modified R34. Therefore they have no idea of how much of a pain in the ass the external surge tank setups can be. Sure in boot setups can work, but I occasionally like to use my boot and drive the car more than a few hundred km's. If most of your hard driving is in a straight line, even a 1/4 tank level wont be an issue.