GTRNUR

Thanks guys, have sourced a set now. Cheers, Ian

Im after the standard windage trays that bolt onto the girdle... Anyone got a set lying around? Cheers, Ian

Silly question perhaps but the 2860-10's are supposed to be simular to a HKS GTRS right? Well which turbine housing configuration makes them simular to the GTRS, because a 0.62 or 0.8x housing would make quite a diference?

Ah... so that fitting in the block is threadded in and not pressed in then. That makes more sense.

There is a steel sleeve in the block that normally has an o-ring seal onto the inside of the filter mount. How do you screw the filter straight onto the block, or do you mean use the filter mount and just dont connect the coolant lines to the oil cooler side of the mount?

Actually looking at the service manual again it appears to be the standard oil cooled water cooler attachments.

Well it seems I may not need to do this anyway now. The oil filter block I have sourced had a large metal cylinder with to hose connections on it. If im not mistaken this is the oil cooler attachment with the built in oil thermostat thats used on the N1 GTR's right? While drilling and plugging galleries might seem like a pain in the ass, ive actualy had that done to all the galeries anyway so I can clean out the block properly. The block has had a lot of metal shaved out of it and I dont want any of that in the oil system.

Hi Guys, Im very close to finalising the last of my machining for my new engine and have an oil system question. I have built quite a few high performance VW engines and one of the things we do with the oil systems is to use an oil pump that doesnt return oil to the crankcase. Instead it pumps the oil to an external fitting where its routed via a remote filter and cooler. They call this a full flow oil system. So, ive heard of RB26's that use a deep sump extension with an external oil pickup. The approach would be to dril and plug the engine block's oil pickup gallery and then drill and install a fitting in the pump to allow a connection for the line that comes from the sump. I think this was done on the bathurst GTR's. Has anyone tried doing anything like this with the output side of the pumps and then returning oil directly to the block? The advantage would be that you dont have to use one of those remote adapter attachments, and the oil hoses would be a bit shorter. Cheers, Ian

BUMP!

Indeed. The only thing they were good for was lowering your car to the bump stops. Definatly worse than stock. I ended up selling the R33 gtr with stock R34 suspension fitted with lowered springs. Cheap but way better than the teins.

The first thing I did to my old R33 GTR was remove the Tein HA's! They were crap with 12/8kg springs and valving designed to shatter your vertebrae. Utterly useless for the street.

Yes your right, the MFD reads from the single wire temp sensor on the thermostat housings output to the radiator, and the PFC sensor reads from the temp of the water that is actually being circulated. Basicly the temp sensors are reading from diferent coolant streams. If your aircon is on i'd be saying 90 degrees stuck in traffic is pretty normal, though getting towards the high end of hot. Hottest ive seen was about 88 on the MFD when driving in mid NSW in the middle of summer with over 40 degrees outside air temps at around 110km/h or so. Just because you have an R34 seems everyone always offers up the things to check that are so dam expensive first. There are a lot of cheaper things to check first. 1. With the car cold, start the car and top up the radiator with distilled water, and open the air bleed on the drivers side top/front of the head to bleed out all the air. If there was air then thats probably part of the problem. 2. Check the overflow bottle has coolant. 3. Check the condition of the hose from the radiator to the overflow bottle. If its able to suck air, it will and that is filling the cooling system with air when the engine cools down, gradually making it worse. 4. Foam rubber. The radiator should be sealed to the shroud and the front of the car with a foam rubber seal, all the way round. If this is falling apart or missing all together get it fixed. It stops/reduces the fan re-circulating hot air when you are stationary. 5. Clutch fan... starts to get expensive but 2nd hand ones can be had for $50. It definatly wont be the thermostat, pump or the radiator, as its not overheating when on the highway. The facts are the engine generates WAY more heat at highway speeds than it does when idling in traffic. And highway temps are under control. Clearly the thermostat, pump and radiator are working properly. Cheers, Ian

There is 2 steps to what you have to do. First set the in the Wolf sensor PSI value and press set. The data is what the ecu will use to mathmatically calibrate the 100% load point after you do step 2 which is to use the "load calibration mode" and select the "WolfPSI load setup" option. Setting a lower boost setting than its tuned for is safer and will result in over fueling and less ignition advance meaning you wont kill your engine. Really what you have done is pretty bad... If the ecu was laptop tuned and the tuner really knew his stuff he will have optimised the map sensors calibration to the engine meaning you may have a non-linear sensor calibration. You really need to have the guy that tuned it to fix the map to guarantee its 100% correct again.

Im with dazmo on this one and again no offence intended. I have to ask too... Has your block been align bored with the ARP studs installed and torqued to spec. If not your just begging for a spun main. Main bearing clearances are < 0.002". When the ARP mains are torqued to spec they pull/distort the cradle and main rod bearing saddles. If the block is align bored with the main bolts in place your guaranteed bearing clearances are correct when its assembled. Its basicly the same principal as bolting a torque plate to the block for when cylinders are bored, so that when the head is bolted on the cylinder bores are parallel and properly sized for the desired piston clearances.

There is little point in trying to sell these into australia as they are not ADR or CAMS approved. So its pointless. Add to that your not a registered trader, so prepare to have Nismoid kick your ass!

They are 5/16th (8mm). Congrats on the impressive result too. Had to edit and say... awesome sound too! Love the sound of an rb26 screaming.

Back to basics. You need to measure the pistons witha micrometer and see what cylinder bore to piston clearance the block was setup with. Check your piston "recommended clearence" data. It will be between 2.5-4 thou depending on the brand and material of pistons. If thats ok then look at rings. Something not right and to proceed without the propper checks will end up in disaster.

Thanks for the heads up and advice. The track owner is not going to approve an event without high level insurance, ie CAMS or AASA. I wrote to AASA yesterday and hope to hear back from them next week. I'll mention SAUQLD in my next corrospondance. 1/2 the guys competing are members of SAUQLD too so that may help a little.

Thanks for the info. I figured i'd have to be asking AASA directly for what was required, considering the track isnt approved too. My partner in crime is chasing up the CAMS route. There is a local CAMS club that holds tarmac motorkarna events on closed public roads occasionally. We just want to be cautious about getting them involved in our event and plans, should they decided they want to take over the whole thing or dictate terms for their involvement with marshaling etc. Cheers, Ian

Hadn't factored in spectators just yet. We want to have two events before the end of the year, and if all goes well aim for 5-6 events next year as a series. Well thats the long term goal... at that point we'd be opening the door for spectators but we need to get organised first.

No its at the Mako track in Mareeba, north queensland. http://www.makotrac.com/karts_tracks/tracklayouts.html Whats the diference between a supersprint event vs full racing? The kind of event we want to run will be have only one car on the track at a time. We have had a few of these events run at a local show ground under the guise of "driver training" . Basic witch hat slalem events, slalem with garage parking (motorkarna style), a go-woah, and we finish with 2 and 4 lap sprints around the track. Is this more of a supersprint event? Cheers, Ian

Hi everyone, I am working with a few other people to host a circuit racing event at a near by go-cart track and am investigating whats required to make a licensed and insurered event. Does SAU have some kind of existing relationship with AASA to allow events to be covered with public indeminity and personal accident insurance? Is there a template or list of requirements/procedure for making sure everything properly organised? If it is at all possible I'd like to host this through SAU. The group that will be racing is predominatly skylines, but there is also a few EVO's in the croud. So I am also considering forming a "time attack car club" and getting AASA membership. The track we want to use is not CAMS approved but it is a world class track and has a lot of diferent track formats. The owner of the track doesnt really like the CAMS people, so AASA is a more attractive option. I appreciate any advice anyone can offer up. Cheers, Ian .

I kept the AFM's installed for that "stock" appearance when I ran a map based ecu in my R33. They arent a performance restriction unless your chasing over 600hp. That opens up the world of other options for AFM based air filters. I was using an aluminium ARC air box. They have nice trumpets inside the box where the MAF sensors bolt onto it.

Im leaning towards afm's. Give them a spray out and try again. Should idle around 900rpm with the aircon off, unless someone has bee dicking around with the iac valve. Have you put your right foot down? If so, how is it, does it rev cleanly to 6000 or is it dropping cylinders? Blowing black smoke?

I investigated the RD28 when researching my RB26 stroker engine build. I have source a service manual in PDF format if anyone wants me to email them a copy, just PM me. The basic engine specs are 85 bore, 83 stroke, 2826cc. Yes they have oil squirters. Con rod length is 140mm (close to SR20). This means the block is about 20mm taller than an RB25/26. It wouldnt be a stretch to throw an RB30 crank with some SR20 rods and RB30 pistons into one of these and have a 3lt with out the massively tall block of the RB30, and still have a respectable 1.6:1 ish rod ratio. But as has been mentioned here the block is much heavier. I wonder how much of that extra weight is in the deck area of the block too (top heavy), to help contain combustion of the high compression diesal burn without distorting the block. While this all sounds great for a strong engine, but that doenst mean it would be streetable. This added strength and material would reduce cooling efficency of the bores, and as unleadded burns much hotter than diesal that could be a problem. If your goal is 1400+ hp chances are your burning methanol though, so cooling wont be an issue for you. I think the costs of converting an RD block with its gains vs sleeving an RB25/26 would be negligible. It costs about $2k to prep a RB26 block for a high power build and fit with tall liners for open deck stroker. If you want "block reliability" above 1000 hp just use better sleeves.