GTRNUR

Its a AFM PFC. I found out last night that the data I had on setting the TPS voltage too was incorrect too, so im going to have another shot at that. Failing that, and assuming it is a blown idle control circuit, have you successfulyl repaired them? Im an electronics engineer so provided compatible parts can be sourced I can repair it. Cheers, Ian

Ive seen the same lights on more than a few R34's. This one is in the UK and ive seen them on australian cars too. My car has the mounts for them in the front bar as well.

Hi all, I want to get a pair of these lights for my GTR. Are they a Nismo option fog light, or spot light or something? Anyone know where I might source a pair? Cheers, Ian

I believe results were posted one person that track races their car, the result was no improvement. Money would have been better spent on a lighter clutch/flywheel to improve response.

Another observation.... Fuel cut on de-cel doesnt appear to be working either. It does mean back-fires instead, and the wideband is showing lean but it should be going to 20:1+ AFR on a de-cel when rolling down hill. At least it does for the R34 GTR's PFC...

I noticed you mention that setting in you manual regarding "Can I have a lumpy 'cammed' idle?"... I cant do this as I dont have a hand controller. I am using the latest datalogit software though. Do I need to source a hand controller to change some specific setting here, or can I change the settings I need with the datalogit? I thought this is just a temporary "override all" thing that you were suggesting be done to determine how much ignition needed to be retarded to get the engine to idle rough, and then once done you suggested offsetting the whole ignition map a certain value. I dont see how this relates to idle lock.

So update... just got to have another quick look at the car. I have adjusted the TPS sensor so the voltage is now 0.42 at closed. I also found the page in the service manual that says between 0.4 and 0.5v is where it should be set for idle... so all good right? Wrong... Idle lock still doesnt appear to be working. With the car idling at 850 RPM, map changes in the idle cells are still having an effect on the delivered ignition values, and I suspect as a result for the same reason as the ignition issue, the idle control valve isnt working to regulate engine speed when the aircon is turned on and off. Idle speed is set to 900 rpm in the map, so it should be regulating to that speed with the throttle closed. I tried a factory re-set and was going to go through the idle setup procedure but that made no diference so ive re-loaded the tuned map. I have attached a copy of an data log and ecu map for the car idling for a few minutes. Im pretty much out of idea's now. Is there anything else to check as to why the ECU wouldnt be going into idle lock mode? Daryl_idle.dat.txt Daryl_idle.txt

Idle ignition lock definantly isnt working, as altering the igintion values at N02/P02 (active load point at idle) definatly change the delivered ignitoin value Ive also reviewed a datalogit file from the R33 and the lowest recorded value for Advanced TPS V is 0.54. This compared to a log of my R34, the idle value is 0.43. 0.11 volts diference isnt a lot. But the threshold to switch to idle lock could be that small. Ive tried a standard ECU in the car and the idle speed circuits are working, so the FC and a standard ECU might have diferent thresholds where idle control takes effect. I'll be seeing the car again soon, so im going to try adjusting the sensor at idle to get a lower closed throttle voltage and see what happens from there. Ive seen the desired voltage mentioned somehere in the service manual before but cant find it again... just reading through the manual again now. Any other suggestions?

Hi all, As I understand it an FC will set the idle igniton advance at 20 degrees for an RB26, and I think SR20's are 15 degrees at idle. No amount of stuffing around with the low load points on the ignition map will have any effect on the idle ignition values, as in it is locked at a pre-set ignition advanve setting right? It would also appear that when the ignition falls back to the 20 degrees idle lock, the IAC valve will operate. But the moment the throttle is cracked open just a little the ignition map values come into play and idle control is no longer performed right...? The reason I am asking this is that I am tuning an R33 gtr that the ignition map values are actually having an effect on the delivered ignition values when the car is idling. Add to this, the idle speed controls arent working. So I figure its got to be something to do with the throttle position sensor right? Im going to plug the FC datalogit back into my R34 tomorrow and look at the absolute TPS values if I can, and then compare them to the values the R33 is reading. Am I on track with working this problem out? Any other suggestions? Cheers, Ian

Im after the 3 bolt oil filter housing and all related parts that attaches to the side of an Rb26 block. Cheers, Ian

If everything else is standardish (boost etc) you'll be fine. Stock ecu tunes are rich anyway, so if its 0.5 AFR leaner thats a good thing. To eliminate any possability get a power/afr run done on a dyno. If its stock, reset your ecu as well after fitting the injectors as well.

86mm is stock. 86.5 is 0.020" oversize. You want an 87. Ideally you get your bore size, but they dont make an 86.5mm gasket that ive ever seen. What makes you think it "seems" to be leaking? Are you gettng bubbles and oily residue in your radiator at idle? If your having overheating issues there is a LOT of other things to check before you go pulling the head off.

If it were the head not flowing enough it would still achieve the boost level your after and the pressure drop would be between the plenum chamber and the combustion chamber inside the head. That is the only area that inadequite head flow will present a pressure drop. The 3" pipe that feeds the plenum is more than large enough so thats not the restriction. As a general rule I wont even bother trying to tune a car without pressure testing the entire setup. Makes a massive diference in response and overall tune not having any leaks at all. The HKS piping and front mount setup I had on my R33 GTR didnt seal at all well until it was tweaked and pressure tested a few times. Also, how the engine twists under acceleration will effect plumbing seal too.

Hi all, A mate has busted the drivers seat in his R33 GTR. He is a 120KG muscly fijian lad and the seat just couldnt cope trying to hold him in when cornering I guess. The seat back has stress fractured and snapped center console side just above where the pivot is. There seems to be a shortage of good condition R33 drivers seats around, but Ive tracked down a few passenger side ones. Has anyone ever tried swapping the backs over on seats to repair them? If it fits it might be an option to repair his seat using parts from a passenger seat rather than buying a pair of after market ones.

Have you pressure tested all the piping from the turbo's to the plenum by blocking the pipe from the twin turbo pipe with a plug and clamp, and then pumping up the entire inlet manifold and intake plumbing by connecting an air compressor hose to one of the vacuum lines (like the line to the fuel pressure reg). Running 25lb you should be able to pump up to at least 35 and not hear any leaks. Doesnt matter how good quality your intake plumbing is, or how careful you have been with assembly. If you over tighten a clamp or if something isnt aligned and assembled just right you will bleed boost. Just make sure you close the bonnet when you do the test. You can launch the pipe plug a fair distance if it blows out at 30+psi, with enough force to put it through someone's windscreen. You can hear and track down most boost leaks at only 3-5psi very easily.

Bump...

Lights sold, Injectors are still up for grabs.

$330-$380 or something...deliverd. I cant remember the exact price but they were cheaper than from nissan.

Thanks, and yea its kind of odd that HKS sell theirs for 1/2 what the nissan genuine ones sell for? Anyway, I managed to source a set from CRD on friday afternoon in the end.

Im interested in the wheels... this offset is right for an R34 GTR right?

Are the standard R34 manifolds a good match for the 2530's? Or to properly max out the 2530's will I need a better manifold (tomei) or something?

Lights sold to Aphid, pending payment.

Here are the pics. The first pic is a comparison between a brand new light (in my car) and the polished light. Im sure they would come up better if you were willing to spend a little more time on them. Ive 2000 wet and dry and polished them with a slow buff and PPG system one. They came up pretty good I think. These are the factory GTR Xenon HID lights with the in car height adjustment motors. The passenger side light has one broken mount. It can be glued back on of course but based on my experiences of how much of a bitch these are to install I'd be getting the light installed first, then glue it on once its in the car.

Hey Flyz33, another guy (Aphid) got in just before you did, but you have 2nd dibs. I'll post up pics tomorow once ive polished them. They are the complete housing with the clear lense and 2 reflectors...as in the whole headlight assembly. Cheers, Ian

Ive got a few R34 GTR parts for sale. One set of 6 x 440cc R34 GTR low impedance injectors $325 One pair of R34 GTR factory twin turbo manifolds $350 (parts are off a low K R34 engine that I purchased disassembled) One pair of R34 GTR Xenon headlight, genuine. Need a polish. (which I will be doing tomorrow) $600 Someone is selling the R32-R34 conversion kits on ebay for $800 if anyone wants to do a R32/4 conversion. Parts are located in Cairns. I'll post pics once ive finished polishing the headlights. Ph: 0434 148 478 Cheers, Ian