GTRNUR

Yes im making good headway with the project. The crankshaft modifications are finished and its now drilled, screwed and balanced and has an 87mm stroke. The Rb26 block was bored out to 92mm today and I believe some if not all of the sleeves were pressed in today too. Ive had the oil galleries drilled and grub screwed too. I am still waiting on the custom order CP pistons and a nismo twin plate to arrive so I can have the bottom end balance finished, and I also need the pistons so the sleeves can be bored to match etc. Ive gone for 87mm pistons for this prototype engine. The spacer plate fabriaction has been an excercise and a half. Got it right on the 4th attempt. The waterjet cutters had a tooling problem that caused the trial template I had cut from thing material to be inaccurate. The 3 plates I then had cut from 20mm plate after that were all useless. They then replaced their cutting nossels and the 4th cut came up perfect. I'll be posting up the build when ive got everything back in my workshop. Hope to have it in a car and running and tuned in 2-3 months max.

Seems the turbosmart reg cant flow enough fuel, so the spring is oscilating and causing the pulsation. You could try running the largest return line size you can get, and just have it return into a drum for testing, save you runing new lines on the car. If that fixes it then fit a larger, or 2nd fuel return line. Failing that try a diferent regulator. Ive used the aeromotive billet regs with success, identical design to the SX regs.

The only problem is with the head locator dowels that are 13.1mm in diameter. If I go to 1/2" studs it means adding dowels elsewhere to positively locate the head. Ive yet to find out what people do when running 1/2" studs in the RB engines.... I did read somewhere that on RB30's the 100ft-lb torque that the 1/2" studs need to get the right bolt stretch causes the top of the deck to distort a little so the head gasket probably wont seal too well witht that... If that is a problem for a block thats got flanged sleeves in it though is anyone's guess.

Yep a typo...thanks for spotting that Noel, and CRAP I cant edit the first post.... Spacer plate is 20mm, not 2mm...

Are you saying the RB26 ARP studs are 20mm longer than they need to be? I havnt got a set handy to compare to a standard head bolt for thread penetration depth into the block...

I installed my new wideband setup in my R34 and ran it around for a few weeks with the car 100% standard so I could get a picture in my head of how they japs tune them from factory. Idle is 14.6-15.1:1 when warming up and when up to temperature. Idle stability when cold is achieved by idling faster, not richer. It ran 13:1ish on mild boost too up to about 0.4 bar or so, and only got to 12:1 at full boost (0.8 bar). It dipped into the mid 11's toward the top end of the rev range at full load as well. I have an FC in the car now. The load points around idle are at about 0.985 or something... That produces a 14.6:1 idle AFR. Check your temp corrections if this is way out, and as suggested turn off O2 feedback. It probably wont make any diference, but who knows the fuzzy programing logic that goes on inside these ecu's... With my previous gtr and the tune I ran in it, I only ever turn that on after the car is tuned. And even then it was probably correcting very little. It only really comes into play when driving up hills to improve my fuel economy as at light load level ground cruising i'd run 16:1 @ 60km/h and 15.5:1 up to 100km/h. Above that its 14.7 at any sustained level ground speed.

Hi Guys, My open deck RB26 project is coming along nicely, however I am still trying to locate a good option for the head studs or bolts to hold it all together. The engine has an additional height of about 2mm, so the studs need to be 150mm long approximatly... The closest I have found from another engine is 149mm, which is probably going to do the job fine, but these bolts are $35USD each so Im looking for another option. Im considering having the block drilled and helicoiled so I can use alternative head studs or bolts with imperial threads, as that opens up the world of chev and ford studs as being a possability. Does anyone who's done this kind if build in the past have a suggestion? Cheers, Ian

Bump!

Who else is having a de-ja-vu... GM did that when they sold the gen 3 to holden...

Reason for selling: Change of plans.... I was using some custom watercooled heads on my twin turbo VW race engine that allowed me to then use this water/air heat exchanger for oil cooling. The limited space in the car for radiators made this heat exchanger a very convenient method of oil cooling as all the radiators are used for cooling coolant only. Ive now switched back to air cooled heads, so the entire cooling system has been revised. Its best to run the cooler on the pressure side and preferably with an in-line oil thermostat so your oil temps warm up faster and dont get overly cool on the track. I suppose you could run it on the scavenge side as well, though your oil temps where they enter the block would always be lower than your thermostat would be rated at due to plumbing length and heat radiated from the tank. You never run a cooler on the suction side. At the most you run a strainer on the pickup or scavenge stages to protect the pump from debris in the event of a blow up. Oil in and out fittings are a generic metric thread, I cant remember what exactly though. I had -16 fittings in it, but they are in my peterson dry sump tank now. All the sizes for dry sump systems seem to be pretty universal, the threads are the same on everything. You can buy adapter fittings at pirtek that fit with -8, -10 or -12 if you want to run smaller.

Hi Guys, This is a C&R Radiators water to oil heat exchanger. Suitable for wet or dry sump installations but wont fit a stock car easily. Ideally you use this with a cross flow radiator where the bottom hose is on the pasenger side of the car. Cool water from the radiator then goes through the heat exchanger to the block. This is the second largest heat exchanger that C&R make and is the 18 plate version. For more info look here.. http://crracing.com/custom_built/external_heat.shtml Cost me just under $600 USD. Will accept swaps for parts to suit an R34 GTR or $300 cash + delivery. Contact: Ian Ph: 0434 147 478 Item is located in Cairns, will freight anywhere... It weighs about 8KG despite being aluminium, the heat exchanger core is copper.

I agree with Shawn. The whole point of hand assembly in climate controlled rooms is to achieve a high degree of repetition in tolerances. When something measures up out of spec it goes into the rubish bin as a rejected component. Now if it was australia that was making the R35 you wouldnt want an engine that was built on a monday or a friday. Hopefully that wont apply to the R35 being built in japan. And thanks Beer Baron, I suspected Nissan had just raised the bar with the R35. Clarkson probably wasnt game to push the car to ITS limits because of the neck injury he got when test driving the R35 in Japan.

Wow such a friendly guy, and when I was just thinking about digging out the schematic for the FPCM wiring. Good luck with your problem.

One other thing I forgot to mention is that you might be pumping too much fuel for the regulator to flow and properly regulate the pressure for. I hope your using something like an SX billet reg that uses -6 fittings, and not some pissy sard regulator.

Ive seen this one before... Fuel temperature. How hot are your pumps when they get noisy. Running two pumps circulates a lot of fuel and its all getting nicely heated up by cooling your fuel rail down. Check them when they are noisy. Warm is ok, but leaning towards hot certainly isnt. They start to cavitate as they boil the fuel internally. Then the sound like they are pumping gravel. The solution is to put a fuel cooler (small tranny cooler) on your return line at the back of the car. It makes your tune far more stable as well and lowers your over all fuel temps and minimises temp variations. Also, if its an R33 Vspec or R34 gtr there is a fuel pump control module mounted under the drivers side parcel tray. There are two signal wires sent from the ECU that change the factory pump from low speed operation to high speed operation. This happens automatically at a specific load point around 3500-4000 rpm from memory. If you want to run one pump constantly, and switch in a second pump under high load, this is where you pickup the relay activation signal from. That combined with a 1 way valve on the switched pump would do the job just fine. I see MBS206's point about a lean out, but I believe that a car tuned to the point where it has a need for twin 600hp pumps would also have a decent AFR system as well. Plus if you know your car you can feel when its running lean and if you have 1/2 a brain you dont try and drive through the "flat spot" that it feels like. You get off the throttle and make a few checks.

A little off topic here but I have a question for the R35 GTR owners... How do the R35 GTR's compare to the earlier model GTR's as far as being a drivers car goes? One of the best driving experiences in a GTR ive had was in a lightly tuned R32, the balance and response of the car and how easy it was to control once the car was pushed beyond the traction limit of the tyres was inspirational. Pushing it past understeer into power oversteer balancing throttle and steering etc. My R34 comes very close and will hopefully be as good as if not better with a few alterations I am working on. I recently saw the new Jeremey Clarkson film called Thriller, and he doesnt like the GTR at all. He tends to lean to ferrari and the lambo's, but I cant help but think he just isnt a good enough driver to push the limits of the R35 GTR. They didnt show him geting the car sideways once on that film. So I was wondering, how does the R35 GTR feel when pushed to the limits of traction and beyond?

Your best bet for something custom is to talk to Albins. They may well have something available for the getrags. Failing that provide them with a standard one and they can make something stronger and aftermarket to suit from there.

First dibs pending how it looks...

I'll take them if Red GTR hasnt already..

Bump... and price drop. Now accepting any reasonable offer and will also accept swaps of other skyline parts. Im building 2 engines at the moment and are chasing all sorts of parts so tell me what you've got and im sure we can work out a deal.

Might be one of those odd quarter mile times if the engine blow was at 1/2 track. Perhaps a decent 60' but the rest gives no indication of performance. Reminds me of a drag bike I saw do a 11 second pass at 88mph, only on the power to about 1/3 the track length. And a vw beetle that did a 13 second pass but completed the last 50 meters sliding on its side and roof...

Sold, pending payment. Beauu, I hope you got my email.... I havent noticed a deposit hit my bank account yet so I hope you check your emails first and hold off on making the deposit.

Do the N1 pump gears fit into a standard pump housing? I guess the housings need to be re-surfaced to make this work right?

The wiring is simular, but the wiring on the CAS sensor and x relay for power are diferent. You get pretty odd results using an R33 ecu in an R34 (tried this and the ecu doesnt get power until you crank the engine, and you dont get an RPM signal. All the other sensors read properly though). Im sure the reverse is also true for the R32/R33 models.

Does anyone have a set of RB26 head studs, or some old bolts lying around that they dont mind measuring the length of for me? I need to know the length of the standard ARP studs so I can get a longer set made for the open deck engine project I am working on. Cheers, Ian.