GTRNUR

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What other body parts did she flash you? Sorry to get off topic here, but until there is more information about Bakes's build the boobies have caught my attention!

Hi, Whats the underside look like? Is it torn through in any places, or is it split anywhere? Cheers, Ian

It always comes down to your long term goals and how the individual that owns the car wants to drive it. Same goes for any modification, wheather it be turbo's, cams, ecu, exhaust. Its a balance of parts that must work together to achieve a result, and in the end its all in the hands of your tuner anyway. Ive tuned haltech's, wolfs and FC's in a variety of cars now and they all have their pro's and cons. All ecu's have some advantage over the others. It comes down to what suits your goals and engine recipe the best, and what your tuner can produce your desired result with. Ive yet to play with a vipec. The ecu was designed/developed by a local (Cairns) resident thats been into ecu's and turbo's for many years. They started out turbocharging landcruisers for toyota and developed toyota's sahara model. More recently was the Autronic, and they are one of the largest Garrett dealers in the country.

U should ask beer barron for some details on his RZ RZ7 twin turbo. It wont dissapoint.

Hell yeah aint that the truth. Then like UPS they dob you into customs and you get nailed for import duty and GST as well. Only once, and never again...

Yeah well... what I was after came up in the search so I figured why not...?

Thanks dude your a champ! I should have it by friday all going well then. I'll deposit another $22 for you in a few minutes. BTW: Your PM inbox is full. Cheers, Ian

Yeah thats it... The pistons tend to melt after the detonation blows the ring lands off them, allowing combustion gasses to blow by the rings at high pressure and melt parts of the pistons... Still get it checked though. I wonder if the nispro cars were using ceramic coatings on the pistons to get away with that. 14.7 is the AFR that produces the least hydrocarbons while not making too much NO2. Ive tuned to 17:1 for light load economy, but thats an entirely diferent story.

Ive yet to hear a good think about the e-manage. The FC is without a doubt the most commonly used, widely supported and easiest to tune of ALL ecu's for the skyline. Add the FC Edit system and its amongst the best for attaining a drivable street tune, economy and power.

I paid for this last night and with any luck its at the post office now. I dont need the hand controller though, so when it arrives I can PM you if you are still interested?

I'd be inclined to say that 13:1 would be moderately safe if you were also running water injection on the car, and the car has also been tuned with an exhaust gas temp sensor in the system. Otherwise id be suggesting 11.8:1 in the 7000 RPM range when at full load/boost. When the ignition settings were too tame ive seen the AFR's go torwards the rich side of the scale, not the lean side, due to un-burnt fuel making the AFR appear more rich. Though lean combined with not enough ignition advance REALLY gets the exhaust temps to rise, as your putting more un-burnt fuel out the exhaust (less burning in the combustion chamber). A doey "soft" ignition tune can cause higher EGT's than the correct ignition advance.

Do you still have the loom extension up for sale?

Never mind... Found it with search for once.... www.boomslang.us

Found it http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100975

I came across this conversion too a while back and it showed some of the machining, head modifications to the oil galleries to hook up an external oil feed etc. They used an inline solenoid to supply oil from the oil pressure sender line to valve, and then used a RB25DET intake cam and gear. I cant find the pics, but they used a -4 oil fitting screwed into the front of the head and then had drilled galleries to supply the cam gear.

Im in and watching closely too. Did you do a baseline dyno run with the car entirely stock as well? Cheers, Ian

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How paint appears in diferent light is greatly determined by if the base colours under the base coat is simular. An extreme example would be a door painted black and the panel next to it white. Then base coat in red and clear coat. In bright light the white door would appear more link an orance colour. What im saying is base preporation of the carbon bonnet was probably diferent to the rest of the car. It was probably even painted off the car by an entirely diferent part of nissan during assembly. About the cut and polish back, I did that on my gtr about a month ago to remove the water marks. Some of the water marks were pretty deep and I had to wet rub with 1200 grit which is pretty hair raising as its a fine line as to if you go through or not. But the rest of the car I just blocked back with 2000 grit, and then used the PPG system 1 polish system. If they are really paranoid about the bonnet and cutting back they could just use a clay block on it instead, and then hit it with the wool buff lightly folowed by the foam finishing pads. The most important thing the guys doing the polish work will have to know is that they cant work the polisher over the bonnet at more that 1500-2000 rpm or so. This is because the heat from the buff does not get conducted away by the carbon panel underneath. Anything RPM more than that and they will burn through the paint. I still havent photographed the car in bright light since polishing it and there are a few spots that I missed but all in all its worth doing as it restores the surface of the clear coat to prme condition again.

All Good, I got it at last. The trick is not being shy about removing it like you said with a screw driver. Thanks, Ian

Thanks, Ive had a go but it appears the trim surrounding the dash MFD screen also overlaps the vents a little, so im now searching for MFD removal instructions to try and work out how to remove that part of trim without breaking it too! Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Howdee, I'll take it if you can guarantee that you can ship it for me tomorrow. I need it before the end of next week, so it will need to be sent via air bag. Also, is the part number 414-AN028 BNR34 Cheers, Ian Swinkels

Hi Everyone, I am trying to access the back of the head unit in my dash/console, and cant work out how to pull it apart. Its easy to remove the trim around the gear shift (ash-tray, 1 screw and a few clips hold that part), but the part that surrounds the head unit itself is proving difficult. I cant work out where the clips are that are holding the outer triim in place and am reluctant to go forcing anything. Does anyone have a procedure for removal of this trim? The frame trim around the head unit is what im trying to remove... Cheers, Ian