GTRNUR

Hi Everyone, I am trying to access the back of the head unit in my dash/console, and cant work out how to pull it apart. Its easy to remove the trim around the gear shift (ash-tray, 1 screw and a few clips hold that part), but the part that surrounds the head unit itself is proving difficult. I cant work out where the clips are that are holding the outer triim in place and am reluctant to go forcing anything. Does anyone have a procedure for removal of this trim? The frame trim around the head unit is what im trying to remove... Cheers, Ian

I had a faulty one on a SR20 running a T70. one of the grub screws that hold the valve into the diaphram hat fell out and was leaking manifold pressure like an internal bleed valve. The result was the first time I held the car on full load the boost short past 25lb. It was very exciting for about 1 second till luckily a hose blew off and it save it all from certain death. Granted putting the grub screw back in properly did solve the problem and it was able to regulate to 20lb with a 38mm gate just fine, but still Id never buy one again. Get a turbosmart ultra gate or something Jap brand named and you dont have to worry about dodgy assembly quality.

Since some of you mentioned the PCV valve, it occurred to me to mention the one way valve that is on the clutch vacuum booster. Ive seen them fail and then once the diaphram fails in the clutch booster it will actuall suck air from the clutch booster leak which will increase the idle speed. Usually you can hear the leak inside the car if you just operate the clutch pedal when the car is idling. Its pitch will change as the diaphram moves.

Pressure test. Trust me you wont regret it. Youd be amased at how you can find the smallest leaks so easily, and as a reward your boost response will be better than you ever thought possible when its fixed.

I wonder if people are using the factory torque specs for tightening the arp studs down on the cradle, or do ARP recommend a higher tension? The whole point of a bolt is that is has a designed in degree of elastacity so that it can stretch a little under load, and while an arp bolt can be tightened to a higher tension its not necessarily a good thing that it is. The possability that it could distort the block for example. So if a bolt is tightened to factory specs results in the factory designed in level of block distortion, but the bolt can also handle considerably more stress (from the engine bottom end taking a 9000+ RPM pounding) before it stretches beyond safe limits then that is possibly the way to go. The last engine I assembled used carillo 5/16th WMC5 conrod bolts, and for curiosity sake I torqued them to spec in stages and measured the bolt stretch to see how it related to the applied torque tension. The results were: 30ft-lb - 3 thou 35ft-lb - 4 thou 40ft-lb - 4.5 thou 43ft-lb - 5 thou 45ft-lb - 5.1 thou 46ft-lb - 7 thou Normal 5/16th arp 2000 bolts only go to 28ft-lb and have the same bolt stretch of 7 thou. ARP 8740 were something like 24ft-lb.

Thanks for the feedback there guys. Kind of a mixed bag of responses. I follow doo doo about pulling the mains out of round. It makes sense. Does anyone shuffle pin (Hollow dowel around the main studs) the girdle to the engine block, or is that considered overkill? So it seems that nobody has managed to break a girdle or crank other than by having a bearing spin or a rod thrown. So just using good head studs is where ARP bolts seem to be really needed to stop the head lifting. And 1/2" seems the go there if your going custom. I cant help but think about what those RIPS guys do with RB30's and standard main bolts...

By having the noise go away when you open the throttles it is confirming that it is a vacuum side leak. Meaning the leak is between the throttles and the cylinder head. 3 possabilities... 1. The gasket you relaced under the AAC valve. 2. Throttle shaft seals 3. throttle gaskets Pressure test it and it will tell you which one it is.

Ive been thinking about the need for running aftermarket main studs instead of the standard bolts, and at what point aftermarket is really needed. Researching engine failures, it seems very rare that a bottom end failure occurs except through oil surge related issues. And even then the failures occur more on rod journels than on the mains. Id like to know if anyone has ever had a failure due to the main bolts stretching or letting go?

It can still be a vacuum leak, just a small one. You can try pressure test your intake manifold by blocking the pipe where it comes from the turbo's and then pumping up the intake manifold. If there is a leak it wlll be audiable at 2-3psi. If everything is good you should be able to pump it up to 15psi and it should hold that pressure. Just be sure your plug doesnt blow out of the intake plumbing or it could launch quite a distance and cause some damage or injury.

Yep I know of Westi's car. His radical approach to weight reduction has the car down to something in the 600kg range including driver from memory. The first time ive ever seen someone take weight reduction so far as to make their own brake, clutch and acelerator pedals. He is a certified mad man!

Yeah i suspected that was going to be the way to go. After seeing RPMGTR's results as well with the 2.9lt build they did GTRS's make good sense.

Throw this out there.... Im about to start assembly of a 3.1lt stroker. To4z or twin GTRS's for a resposive setup that makes 450awkw...?

Thanks guys, i'll be sure to put up some video of the car when its up and running.

Motorkarna and drags, and the occasional sunday drive.

Seems a lot of us skyline people play with all other makes of cars too. So here's my project. What started life as a 1966 vw beetle is now pretty much entirely custom. The footprint (wheelbase and track) are the same as a 1994 porsche 968 turbo which is also where the front and rear suspension are from. Steering is 924, transmission is 930 axels are 911 and everything else in between is custom. The dash and floor linings are carbon fiber as are some of the exterior panels. Brakes are 968 4 spot brembo's all round, Wheels are 996 twin turbo with RE55 semis in 18x8 and 18x10. Shocks are honda civic tein super streets. The engine is a custom air, oil and water cooled beast with a massive increase in displacement and a pair of trust T517'z. Dry sumped, intercooled and all the other crap you do to make it fast and strong. The goal is to have fun at drag and motorkarna days. The colour is called atlas grey and is a careera GT colour. Its still a few months off completion. Cylinder heads are still being manufactured in the US so hopefully not too much longer.

GTRNUR if its not already taken please, to match my new number plates...

I forgot!.. Its upstairs in the lounge room at the moment. I didnt want to get it wet when we had flooding not that long ago. The bars are moulded under pressure, so it squeezes out every last unnecessary drop of resin, and also compacts all the fiberglass cloth so they are very dense, strong, no air bubbles, and are only about 1mm thick. This makes them very light too for how strong they are.

Gee I needed another opinion like that. Thanks. Believe it or not there are some GTR owners that arent broke. We buy top shelf parts for our cars and treat them with respect. Would you trust a damaged R33 bar or a cheap replica bar on your car was capable of doing 300km/h. Dont answer that. I dont want to know.

Bump!

Another bump!

I believe so. Series 2 and R34 gtr are the same, so it stands to reason that the S1 and R32/r33 are also the same. Are your coil packs breaking down and arcing everywhere but in the plug? Try your plug gaps at 0.7mm.

DCIEVE is correct with his estimate too. Raising the base fuel pressure gives you a litle more flow at the injector. He did this with a 1:1 nismo regulator. I'd done something simular with my old GTS4, which managed around 400rwhp according to the time slip. I had never put it on the dyno though, it was just street tuned and then raced.

Stock injectors will max out with around the 380-400hp mark, so 300kw there abouts. Ithink thats about 250-260awkw taking driveline losses into consideration.

Its impossible to say because your setup with the GT35 is already one that there is little REAL documented details about. THat was what the original idea of the thread was about... making a database. I have seen good results with stock twins, but the benefit of cam gears on an engine with a GT35 will be less as far as response gains go. There will be some improvement though. Id suggest tuning what you have and then look at getting some adjustable gears down the road. Trying to do too many things at once will have you jumping to the wrong conculusions about what has resulted in an improvement, or if your really unlucky, introduced a problem which has you looking at all your recent changes to try and diagnose it. Take small steps.

I'd suggest moving the power fc to the top of your modifying list, and add it a good wideband exhaust gas monitor. Have a look at www.plxdevices.com and their DM200 series gauge systems with the SM-AFR module. These combined with a power FC Datalogit make for a very powerful tuning aid. The ability to monitor your AFR's at all load points, as well as monitor knock at all load points allows you to properly optimise and make safe what you already have, and of course what you will have further down the track. Its wise to make changes that affect one system all at once. Eg, injectors, fuel pump, FPR and cooler all as one modification, then re-tune etc. I'd suggest fuel system mods after the PFC/AFR/Datalogit upgrade. The rest of your planned mods dont really matter what order they happen in. Basicly your after more power and at the moment you dont have the minimum supporting modifications to make that safe. Once youve got the engine management and fuel system you can do whatever you want next. You will already be making a lot more power so i'd lean towards reliability mods like the oil cooler first and save cam gears and intercooler for last. To answer your other question, Rb26's dont have VVT, so you dont have to worry about that. Cheers,