GTRNUR

Those cams and multi-throttle is a soft setup, it will be fine. You wont have vacuum issues and the car will be quite drivable and tunable on a map system. Map sensors require a vacuum source. They both connect to the plenum, engine side of the throttle bodies.

A multi throttle setup with some hot cams say 270 degrees and hotter causes the engine to pull a pretty poor vacuum at low engine speeds, as was already covered this affects tunability at low engine speeds as your map sensor is bouncing all over the place. Running a TPS -> Map changeover solves this, as does using MAF sensors... But. Vacuum is also used for your power assisted clutch and brakes. Ever tried driving a car in traffic that uses multi throttle and has a set of 280 degree cams? There is not a great deal of power assist going on there any more. Its ok if your track racing it because on a gear shift it will pull a vacuum to allow the boosters to work, but not in traffic when your RPM isnt getting high enough to allow engine vacuum to really build. Be prepared to have to use the hand brake and the brake pedal to stop. Single throttle doesnt solve this, but it does make it a lot better, at the cost of a tiny bit of response. In case your wondering why multi-throttle is more responsive, its because there is a few litres of filtered air at atmospheric pressure ready to go the moment the throttles are cracked open. With a single throttle setup with the throttle is closed you not only have the engines cylinders that are in vacuum state, but the entire plenum that is usually 4-5lt in capacity that is also in a vacuum. When the throttle is cracked open it takes a moment for air speed to equalise that vacuum back to one atmosphere or above. The delay is due to the volume of the intake piping, and intercooler restriction/volume. One other thing. TPS->Map change over is a complete pain in the ass to tune if you have a responsive turbo setup because if your making boost in the low RPM range (<below 3400 rpm or so), its in the range that you want to achieve some economy and drivability. All of the sudden your on boost and need map correction. So my opinion is multi-throttle, small turbo setups and cams < 270 intake duration. Single throttle, drag/circuit race turbo setup, large cams.

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Since your going circuit racing, id suggest leaving the stock pump in the tank and have it fill a surge tank you can mount in your spare wheel well in the boot. Get a bosch 044 pump to be your main supply pump, and it will draw from the surge tank and return to the tank via a smal fuel cooler (like an alloy transmission fluid cooler. Adjustable cam gears are definatly worth getting, short of getting a set of pon cams they are the cheapest option. Modifying stock ones is possible but its not as accurate and not tunable when your on the dyno so your stuck with the modified settings and thats it. Larger injectors have nothing to do with knock. They are simply to flow more fuel. A set of 700cc would be ideal for starters. For a track car that might see use on hot days you dont want to run your PFC knock at anything above 15. 10-15 would be a good value to aim for. You also want 12:1 AFR's for the entire map where on boost, except for top end (above 6000 rpm) at full load where id suggest 11.8:1 to help keep things a little safer/cooler. Plug gaps at 0.8mm, not 1.1mm. Just to guarantee the spark wont blow out on the higher boost levels. Definatly lose the rising rate reg. That will allow you to achieve a good tune. Like i said in the other post, they cause too eratic fuel pressures. The PFC maps are designed to work with correction values for larger injectors but do not factor in non-linear fuel pressure changes. Talk to a few more tuners familiar witht the FC as well. Im surprised that someone that is "familiar with 500rwhp" cars has recommended a rising rate FPR, especially where up to 1.4-1.5 bar will be run. With that setup id be surprised if you didnt easily break 450rwhp on a maxed out tune. If the knock is down low it will be relitavely safe too, the danger will be oil surge when its on the track so you will have to take it easy in cornering till you can fit restrictors and an external drain from the head... or just rebuild the engine completely.

Dam shame this group buy went sour. On the bright side considering SAU is one of the largest skyline forums in the world I seriously doubt that ACPT will ever sell another tail shaft to a Skyline owner in Australia again. Thats a whole market they have just succeeded in losing themselves. If an aussie company pulled that crap and didnt fix it they'd find a tail shaft thrown through the front windows of their show room or the windscreen of their demo car. Companies that pull this kind of crap deserve to go broke.

Sorry i got lost in the thread somewhere there.. It shouldnt be detonating with a stock ecu, the risk is that it might be running lean. It will need 2-4 degrees more advance across the entire base map when on boost compared to a stock PFC base map, and it will tolerate about 1.5 degrees additional advance per 1000rpm after peak torque around the 5500 RPM mark because of reduced EGT's and colder air charge because of the more efficent turbo (compared to stock that is). The rising rate reg will likely be making it too when on boost as well. While it sort of works now these can make the car a pain in the ass to tune when you get the PFC in there. Getting it to maintain a steady 12:1 afr can be nearly impossible from my experiences. They arent very linear in operation, and when you are running above 1 bar of boost your fuel pressures get eratic and very high. Consider 43.5psi base pressure + (manifold pressure x2). Fuel pressures approaching 80psi slow down fuel flow from the pump too, load it up and heat your fuel up a lot. You can run out of fuel flow in top end. Your going to be much better off with some larger injectors and a standard regulator and larger pump. Add a fuel cooler on your return line before it returns to the tank too if your running an 044/040 pump. Also, if you have cam gears try running 2 degrees advance on the intake and 4 degrees retard on the exhaust. You should see quite a diference in the response and top end. It workd really well on my 33 GTR. Keep us informed with the progress. Its good seeing someone doing what many of us have wanted to try but due to lack of available information we havent been brave enough to take the plunge. Id have liked to see the 0.63 turbine version of the GT35 tried as well, to try and overcome the lazyness of the GT3582. Cheers

Exactly! It wont make any diference. Consider air velocity as its entering the plenum (after coming out of the intercooler). Its not sitting in the plenum for a minute soaking up radiant heat. Its on the move and straight into the engine. Reminds me of a twin turbo lexus 1uzfe v8 I was messing around with a few years ago. After 2 minutes on the skid pad held wide open at 6000-7000 rpm the plenum was warm but due to a good intercooler the AIT sensor never read above 35 degrees. Also, there was condensation all over the throttle body due to the pressure drop that was constantly there as the driver got off and on the throttle. The throttle was actually cold to touch.

Hey Tomek, whats the purpose of this car? Drags, short track, motorkarna, or circuit?

Sounds like a safe tune, not a responsive one. Too soft on the igniton advance makes a car unresponsive and makes the power delivery smooth rather than having it come on hard and fast. You cant fix this without booking more dyno time because ignition changes will affect your AFR's as well, as the fuel will be being burnt properly and it will be once a little more ignition is added. You need to find someone thats skilled with the autronic as well as knows the rb25 really well.

I was thinking about the pressure danger side of things and remembered something a hydraulic engineer said to me. A pin hole in a hydraulic hose can squirt out hydraulic fluid with such force that it can cut. Worse is that when it cuts the skin and fills a cavity in your body with hydraulic fluid. Now consider that happening with liquid CO2, injecting liquid co2 into you, which then freezes your tissue before converting to a gas (possibly in your blood stream). Sounds like a pretty nasty way to die to me.

Compressor side failures while being bad arent as bad as an exhaust side failure on a GTR. A compressor side failure still blows its air through your intercooler which does filter it a little. Compressor side failures will probably never happen on a gtr with stock turbo's anyway unless the intake injests foreign particles that cause the compressor wheel to break. Like Rev210 says with his bullet theory. Consider the inertia energy of a wheel spinning at 100,000 rpm. Its going to go wherever it wants to go when it comes off the shaft. No amount of gas flow is going to changed the direction the wheel wants to go.

Sorry i went off on my own tangent last night. That happens when I post when its late sometimes. The manufacturer spec sheet for the pistons and rings should recommend a ring gap for various applications. NA applications run the smallest gaps, then forced induction and finaly nitrous. Diferent ring materials also have diferent requirements. The data in a CP booklet I have here says that for the standard chromoly rings supplied with CP's they recommend 0.007" top ring and 0.008 on the second ring. Oil rings should be 0.015 minimum.

New engine block or is it just honed? If its new the 86 should actually measure to be a true 86mm bore. Measure it at 3 diagonals at 3 heights down each bore to be 100% sure of each cylinder. They can get it wrong at the factory so its best to be sure. Machine shops get it wrong too. A honed old stock block will probably measure up a little over stock by no more than 0.001". The loosest you'd want to run the cylinder clearances is about 5 thou. I have heard of more being used on all out drag/nitrous engines but thats not what your building here. The downside of a loose bore is noise that can cause issues with knock sensors detecting piston slap, and also blow by is increased a little. So that can increase oil temps and mean you need to have a good catch can system to re-claim oil and return to the sump. Bore clearances are generally built into the pistons. So an 86mm piston if measured with a micrometer will actually be 86mm - about 3 to 4 thou. Most pistons ive measured have never been perfectly round (including CP's). Measure at multiple diagonals under the base of the oil ring above where the skirt starts. 0.002" is minimum factory spec which is too tight for what your doing. Id be leaning towards the 2.5-3 thou though considering the engine is going to rev and when that happens the crank will bend and twist to a degree, as will the block. Measure the crank and the inside diamater of all the assembled rods with the bearings installed at 3 diferent diagonals with a micrometer and not plastigauge. And once youve done this dont mix anything up. I always measure everything 3 times and write down each measurment. If you get a big diference between the 3 measurements start again till you dont. If you do this right you wont be doing a post in a months time with pictures of your spun bearings on display.

I wouldnt dwell on the performance diferences between the diferent models. Once you change an intake or exhaust and re-tune the diferences disappear. It think the build quality of the 32 was the best of all the GTR's (at the time when they were new), but 32's are getting a litle long in the tooth now. Finding a good one is getting harder and harder. Finding one to restore means finding a car with some flaws and fixing what you can, and in some cases making a compromise for what you cant get just 100% perfect. Though I guess that comes down to your capabilities and what you consider to be important. The 33's are a larger car than the 32's and 34's and you do notice that diference. The 34's feel and drive simular to the 32's but are much more refined. Its like they took the good features of the 33 (stability, braking performance) and put them in a much more updated version of car simular to a 32. The stronger mid range torque of the standard 34 engine is noticable, and the 6 speed is a very nice improvement over the 5 speeds in the earlier model cars. So my choice is the 34, but if I couldnt afford it I'd have gone looking for a mint 32 N1 for around 30K-35K, with only light modifications, low km and a flawless interior. The car should be a pleasure to drive too.

I have a genuine nismo 400r bar for sale. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ge...33#entry4387633

Is this a GTR or GTS-T? The shifter goes into the transfer case on a GTR, so if you filled the transfer case youve mixed ATF and synthetic, and are running your gearbox dry. And... I think the GTS-T's are supposed to use Redline ultra-lite weight, not the light weight. Its more like an ATF oil that is used in the R34 getrags as wel.

Yes, that right. All R33 GTR's 95-97, direct fit. Its always wise to do a trial fit first for any bar, but it will fit that good there shouldnt be any surprises. The inner guards and ducts will still bolt up to it as well.

THANKYOU!

Perhaps... but then everyone is a rip off then. Unique Auto Sports sell a new genuine series 3 front lip for $1300. Are they a rip of too, or is it that just that genuine nissan/nismo is out of the price range of a large percentage of skyline owners.

http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Nismo-400R...line-GT-R-50566 Yes I am serious. Im guessing you have never bought genuine NISMO parts before. These are $4200+ from Japan delivered. But this one thats for sale is also prepped with standox primer, ready for a 600 wet rub and paint. This is a vacuum formed bar, no porosity anywhere, very light and very strong. Hmm I think im repeating myself...

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I dont giggle but it definatly puts a smile on my face. Im not sure what time it was when I passed through Rocky but I think i had lunch there at a war mermorial on the north side around 12:30 or something. I left Gympie saturday morning around 8am I think. Yeah the slighly lowered stance and wheel spacer to fill the guards make all the diference. Im fitting the new lights this weekend. Had a look last night and it turns out the entire front end needs to come off the car to access a mounting bolt on the headlight assembly that is located at the outer side of the light (between the guard and the parker light). I think thats going to take quite a bit of time to do properly and carefully.

+1. You mention usual wear and tear? What does that mean? Some flaws arent visable in a photo. Scratches from tyre fitment, kurb rash? Cheers, Ian