GTRNUR

Re-map, or power FC, yes then you need to run a resistor pack because the GTR injectors are a low impedance type. If your using a haltech/wolf/motec or whatever that supports driving low impedance injectors your better off without the resistor pack. You will get about 0.20-0.025 ms better opening times, which means your AFR's at idle will be better. From my experience its 1.55ms stable idle with no resistor pack and around 1.8ms with a resistor pack (and the appropriate low impedance injector driver ECU of course).

Here u go.

I think doing the conversion and making it only 2wd would be very achievable. RB25 box, rb26/rb30 engine. wiring isnt an issue as you could even use the entire standard loom and just adapt it where it needs to be. Now making an AWD charger, thats a little more complicated. You'd have to retain everything from the donor car. The only way I think such a project would be possible would be to modify the charger body with a tube frame support that would either be removable from the main chassis, or later welds to it. I'd build an entirely custom tube frame chassis and then go about transfering the entire driveline from an R32 GTR. I cant imagine walking away from that project having spent less than 100k. The car would be legal under ICV rules if built correctly.

Is there a recipe for a 1000hp gtr engine thats reliable these days? Or is each engine still a an engine that is developed over time, possibly blown up a couple of times till the tune is just right? Any variation in fuel quality could cause a blow up so such engines would have to be being run on race only fuels, so that 1000hp figure would be an off the street, on the dyno/track figure right?

Hi Gary, Earlier this year i purchased some R33 GTR suspension from you for my R33 GTR. Im about to sell the car and want to keep the suspenion for an R34 that I have lined up to purchase. I know it will bolt in directly, but will this same setup properly match an R34 GTR? Is the valving in the shocks the same? Cheers, Ian

Using eagle rods and upgrading to SPS-CARR bolts is worth a look too. They are easily twice as good as a ARP2000 bolt. Probably about $70-80/bolt though.

Im still looking... Youtube has too many distractions and not a good enough search engine... On another note, my TPS readout doent go to 0% when the throttle closed. How do I calibrate the 0 throttle setting on the AVCR? I tried initialise a couple of times but that didnt seem to help.

Thanks Paul, ive read quite a lot of your posts and your documentation on the FC over the past few weeks. Very informative. So any idea's about gear judge and feedback settings? I presume all these setups are done with learning mode on still too right? Ive seen other threads where people turn learning off so they can set the RPM NE points indivitually. Another thing Ive just read was that with feedback it needs to be higher in the lower gears (4-3ish) and then go lower per gear till 4th and 5th. So I think I understand about the duty now. Once I get that correct so that it doesnt overshoot the boost level, I can then play with the start +/- settings for each gear to optimised the rate of boost response for each gear right?

Hi all, Thus far ive been content with 0.7 bar 30% duty, but im cautious about messing with the settings as im still running stock ceramic turbos. The car is a 96 vspec GTR and has all the other major bolt on mods. HKS 100mm intercooler, ARC intake, Nismo front pipe, HKS exhaust. The AVCR setup is currently done very basicly since it lost all its config when I had a battery go flat a while back and attempting to start the car resulted in the thing losing all its settings. So after reading a ton of posts and documentation on the net today im now pretty confused with where to start. I figured that surely the setup for a GTR with stock turbo's has got to be done to death, but I cant find many actual proven settings out there. What Im after specifically is the recommended gear judge settings, recommended feedback settings and some indication of what duty cycle settings will produce what kind of boost pressure levels. If anyone has all their NE points documented for any particular boost level I'd be interested in a look. The only info Ive found so far is all for boost pressure's above 1.2 bar, so useless to me. Cheers, Ian

This is an entirely custom application with 4 points at 60 degrees BTDC for each cylinder, and 1 ref at 50 degrees BTDC cylinder 1. This is called dual pulse triggering in the case of the Wolf ecu. Yes its got nothing directly to do with injection or ignition, its all sensing crank position and ECU timing. The last time did this kind of installation I used an optic sensor in the distributor with 5 slots cut in it as described, but no distributor this some, ergo triggering directly from the camshaft drive gear.

The distributor is being removed from this engine to make more engine bay space. There will be a dry sump pump mounted where the distributor normally is. Its a VW horizontally opposed 4 cylinder engine.

True but the cam in this engine is gear driven. Lash would be about 2-3 thou so barely worth mentioning as far as an effect on drifting igniton timing. I was going to use the dual pulse method as it can be done on the cam gear with just one sensor, and it gives me the full sequential operation i need.

Already have, and he's chasing the datasheet from the manufacturer for their hall sensor too. Still no luck in hearing from them yet though.

V500 wolf. Your meaning running a sync and reference setup i presume? Yes thats possible but it still means putting a sensor through the front of the block to trigger from the camshaft gear. (single camshaft pushrod engine). So im still stuck with a need for a reliable at 100+ degree temp sensor.

Crank triggering wont allow me to run sequential injection though, which is needed due to the size of the injectors on the engine. It wound end up with low end miss fires and a crap idle AFR. Its got to be cam based triggering. Yep i've already posted on their forum, and am waiting on a reply. I'll let you know how it goes. Electrically speaking it probably would, but the wires coming out of the sensor dont look very industrial. Most automotoive sensors are a lot more ruggard with the wiring, The risk of breaking the wire off at the top of the sensor is a little high.

Is the sensor your thinking of the first one on the list on the motec sensor page. (below) Its exactly the sort of thing the sensor needs to be physically to fit and mount properly, but its hall effect not reluctor. The engine runs a closed dry sump system so the sensor has to seal to the case properly. http://motec.com.au/sensors/crankcamspeed/ Ive been trying to get a data sheet on this sensor but havent had any luck so far. My concern is if it can handle the heat for a long period of time considering the oil bath it will be getting.

Hi all, Its a long shot question but I figure there are a few EFI specialists on here that mess around with more than just a power fc. Im tring to find a reluctor sensor that I can use for a custom EFI installation. I need to be able to mount the sensor through the front of an engine case so it can trigger from trigger points on the front of the camshaft gear. It also needs to seal the hole that it will go through, so some sort of bolt through shape like a bolt, or I could cut a thread into the front of the engine block and screw the sensor in perhaps. The sensor needs to be able to tolerate oil and engine temps up to 130 degrees or so at a maximum. I havent had any luck locating anything so far. If not an actual engine position sensor I was also thinking of ABS sensors from some make or model of car would also probably be compatible. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? Cheers, Ian

Ouch thats a painful and expensive method of finding out not all 18's will fit a R33 GTR. I figured they'd fit for sure because im using 17'" BBS ribs at the moment. I was considering some 18x10 volks for my 33 GTR too, glad I dont have to learn the same lesson you just did. So do all the 18" volks not fit an R33?

Great thread except for the cat fights... So is this car going to be raced, or is it a purpose built dyno weapon? If it does hit the track it will need full cage and chute i'd imagine. For a daily driver did anyone think for a moment about the fuel consumption of 6 x 1600cc injectors... I had a thought about the issue with dyno comps and light ramp rates. While talking with some tuners at a training event last time i was down south someone mentioned the issue of ramp rates being so light that some of their turbo dyno comp cars were barely achieving full boost for their runs. Where as this wasnt an issue of course for the supercharger croud. I've read of some of the pro-mod drag cars in the US that use a nitrogen gas injection anti-lag system to pre-spool the turbo onto boost. As its not dependant on engine load this could be done to overcome lack of dyno/engine load during a power run. Basically they have a nozzel in the header before the turbine housing and inject nitrogen gas briefly to spool the turbo onto boost. The moment the gas is in the header it expands greatly because of the heat and eliminates lag. I'd imagine all the top dyno comp cars are running engine management capable of turning on a solenoid at say 60% load and above 5000 rpm, and off again at say 80-90% load and perhaps above 7000 rpm, thereby allowing the engine to settle and run on just turbo to max rpm. Just a thought...

im after a boot keyhole cover if you haven already sold to Jeff.

That looks closed to me. The water galleries around the cylinder go straight through to the head. The spacer is the same thickness at its thickest part as it is around the cylinder liner, so there is no coolant contact with teh liner where it runs through the spacer plate. Thats a much better picture than anything ive been able to find so far too. To make it a 2.8 it would only need the tomei/gt500/hks crankshaft. Then using sr20 rods and standard compression height pistons, or even rb30 pistons, 2.8lt is achieved. Becaused its sleaved they can be bored to 88mm to for a little more displacement.

If you were to get an engine block and cut it in 1/2 down the center of the cylinders you would see the cylinders are about 4-5mm thick, and coolant is able to flow around the entire cylinder. Only at the top of the block does it become a seemingly solid piece. Around each cylinder are 4 slots that water passes through from the block to the head, then it flows through the head over the combustion chamber and out the water outlet that is mounted on the plenum. When sleaves are inserted into the block the normal cylinders that are cast into the shape of the block are bored out to allow the sleave to be fitted to the block. The sleaves can be pressed in, or shrunk fit and slipped in. The result is that the sleave material is considerably stronger than the standard cylinder material. This is for 2 reasons. Cylinders liners/sleaves are spun cast or in some cases machined from billet steel, which means no porosity. When boring out a standard block there is no guarantee the wall thickness is 100% even the full length of the cylinder, and also there risk if finding porosity increases the thinner the walls get. Even if you cant see it, it could blow through to the water chambers the first time the engine is started if its over-bored too much.... ala cracked block. The whole point of a spaced block is to allow a better rod ratio to be maintained when running larger stroke crankshafts. What it does it make the block taller, but so the pistons and rings dont catch on the join between the block and the spacer, liners are inserted through the spacer into the block. I think the Kakimoto spacers are more suited to the RB28 strokers. An RB28 with SR20 rods would be possible with a 16-18mm spacer and would produce a 1.75:1 rod ratio. Larger is possible though and I suspect that the RPMGTR RB29 is a Kakimoto spaced block. Now with a closed deck spacer, if you consider that the thickness of a spacer is 20mm, add the top of the block thickness to that and you end up with an area that the sleave is not exposed to coolant, especially where it needs it the most... at the top where combustion temps and pressures are their highest. An open deck spacer looks the same as a closed deck from the top. Its the under side where you will see its hollowed out around the sleaves so that coolant can flow around them and joins up with the 4 water galleries that surround each liner. This means the cylinder liner is getting better cooling at the top. Thats as much as ive been able to learn about them. It seems to me that it is still a good way to go instead of the RB30DET/AWD conversion option for the a GTR. There wont be a lot of diference in cost (a few K perhaps), and it makes fitting a lot easier too. The taller the block the more need for cooling. I figure a thin spacer might survive on the street (this is what I really want to find out about), and if it was alloy it might conduct enough the heat away from the cylinder liners.

When i was in melbourne about 2 months ago I thought it was cold... then it started to snow. The only time we ever see air intake temps like that is in winter, on the tabelands around 2am when the dew is stating to fall. Ive heard of 4 degree intake temps off boost. Easily another 30-40hp gained from a 40-45 degree air intake temp drop. Uras? your a wolf dealer are you, or are you just installing and tuning them along with everything else ?

Yep saw it and it wasnt possible to tell if it was open deck or not as it was pictured the same way up as it is instaled on the engine. ...

Hi All, Just thinking about the longevity of these spacer/liner kits and lack of cooling around the top of the sleave with a closed deck engine. The Kakimoto is only about 20mm thick which wouldnt leave much material to make it thick enough and allow for material to be removed to make it an open deck extension. I have no idea about the thickness of the OS kits. There seems to have been 2 versions with diferent thicknesses. Are these spacers really designed as more of a race only item?