GTRNUR

Hi All, Just thinking about the longevity of these spacer/liner kits and lack of cooling around the top of the sleave with a closed deck engine. The Kakimoto is only about 20mm thick which wouldnt leave much material to make it thick enough and allow for material to be removed to make it an open deck extension. I have no idea about the thickness of the OS kits. There seems to have been 2 versions with diferent thicknesses. Are these spacers really designed as more of a race only item?

The reality of tuning without air temp input is that your tune may vary .2 of an AFR. Its enough to make a diference for your light load tunes for economy but you wont pick it in throttle response, or on full power. Turning on closed loop operation with a narrow band sensor and you probably wont even notice the diference. Most ecu's ive tuned i aim for a 15 - 15.5:1 light load AFR anyway, so its still better economy than the 14.7 the closed loop mode tracks too. Where air temp compensation is very useful is allowing the car to start easily when its heat soaked. Eg.. driven so the cooling system is up to 80 degrees, and then parked in the sun for 20 minutes. The intercooler soaks up heat from the radiator as does all the intake piping and intake plenum. Allowing an extra % enrichment in this situation makes the diference between being able to start the car and not being able to start it at all. Ive seen 75+ degree intake temps when starting my car after its been parked like this. All my tuning has been done in the tropics where ambient air temps during the day are around 55-60 degrees at the plenum. 70+ on boost. Ive seen maps from gtr's tuned in melbourne and they start their air temp compensations around the 40-45 degree mark. Perhaps the cooler states use the compensation differently...? I'd love to have the intake temps the lower aussie states get.

A long tme ago there was one of these cheap models of turbo getting around that had the compressor housing glued together. And the glue would break resulting in it the compressor wheel and housing making contact. You will probably find pics of this if you search. Like guilt-toy said, things have improved.

Long since sold but I think its been de-tuned somewhat by the new owner. Ive seen it a few times since. It didnt blow up that i heard of... One other story... Same turbo... china special T70, Supra 2jzjte... 460rwhp with room for probably another 50 more hp in just fine tuning the ignition map.

Ive had a whole lot of fun with some of that cheap chinese stuff. You just need to check EVERYTHING, and make sure its installed properly. Manifolds need the flanges re-surfaced so they are flat and not heat distorted, wastegates should be disassembled and checked, turbo's must have the appropriately sized oil restrictor fitted, etc. One time out street tuning an S13 and about to do the on boost tune. Floored it and on came the boost, but it overshot the wastegate's 12lb rating and went well past 24psi before luckily the intercooler plumbing blew apart before it could damage anything. What a bang too when it popped the hoses off. I was sure i'd killed it. Turned out that 2 of the three grub screws tha thold the wastegate valve to the diaphram inside the wastegate had fallen out, allowing an internal air bleed to leak from the diaphram chamber. The same car once sorted was amazing though. Cheap T70, tial "style" 38mm wastegate (fixed), cheap manifold, cheap 100mm intercooler, wolf ecu, some 850cc injectors and a 20lb tune. Easily 400hp to the tyres. Would break traction in 3rd gear loose at 100k's. Lag below 4000rpm, full boost at 4500, insanity to 7500. Most fun ive had in a 2wd car.

What is the rest of the engine combination? Turbo, manifold, exhaust, injector size, fuel system arrangement and pressure etc? Yes air temp is useful but to a degree it depends on where you live as well, how much temp variation you get from one day to the next etc. You can do a lot of a tune around the sensor, but where its particularly useful is helping get around heat soak when starting. Give me the rest of your info as above and i'll paint a better picture.

As the subject says... Does anyone know who in Australia sells Carrillo SPS Bolts? I need a set for an engine build im doing and cant find the australian distributor information for carrillo...

If your tuned for 98 unleadded then the answer is no. You must re-tune for E85 or you will be running lean. Fuel hoses will likely require replacing to make them alcohol compatible. Also due to E85 having a lower calorific value than unleadded you need to burn more of it to make the same power. So your fuel system (injectors and pumps) will need to flow more to make the same power you already are. Cut from that thread... interesting.... ======== stoichiometric AFR ===== max power rich AFR Gasoline ---------- 14.7:1 -------------------12.5 100% E-85 ------- 9.73-9.8:1 ------------- ~ 9:1 - 8:1 100% fuel ethanol - 9:1 ------------------- ~ 7.2:1 And also the mentioning that E85 likes a little more ignition when on max load, and that it also tolerates a richer fuel ratio before losing power, simular to methanol. Ive heard that E85 is available in some places in melbourne. Whats it worth per litre? It would be interesting to compare the price per litre, per KW, factoring in the fuel flow increase required to maintain the same level of power.

3.2K for a pump! I thought that was a reason to not buy HKS! The 4 stage dry sump system on my vw race engine cost only about 1k more than that, and it could easily be adapted to a GTR engine. I cant imagine why anyone would want bigger than a jun or trust pump and a nice 8lt upgraded baffle sump on 99% of nissan engines. Add some restrictors and isnt that the most proven reliable lubrication system out there?

A little sideways off topic, but... I came across pictures of an RB25 VCT cam conversion that was being done to an RB26 head the other day. Where there's a will there's a way.... A little clever thinking and access to a machine shop will get you VCT on a RB26 a lot cheaper than the HKS variable cam system.

+1 Note the PFC propaganda has been edited. There are a lot of far superior ecu's available these days.

Is the malpassi the black one (2:1 ratio), or is it a 1:1 rate reg. Was the ecu tuned with that regulator, or did you fit it just recently? When was the last time it all ran properly, and what has been changed since? The 2:1 regulators make the transition onto boost a little tricky to tune, and if youve adjusted the regulator just a little it will throw the tune out completely.

Habbit i guess. My engine building education came from someone who was pretty old school. Ive then learnt how to use the micrometer method since I began doing higher performance engine builds. Im not a mechanic by trade so I probably over check things but better to be safe than sorry. I figure if i check something 3 times and get the same measurement those three times then ive got to be on the money. And yes it can be quite entertaining how badly plastigauge results can be affected if something does move. Though if it does move and your plastigauge is smered it would otherwise read as being too tight. If you check a few more times and it measures as more loose, and is consistantly the same width when torqued to spec you know its close. If its consistently the same then there is a problem, or you drink way too much coffee and cant assemble something without shaking...

I think the FC is the way to go unless your looking to go extreme with the setup. And even then the limiting factor of 4 injector channels will affect the drivability. When paring 2 injectors on each channel there are 2 methods. One is common and uses cylinders in firing order (1,5, 3,6, 2,4) and requires the ecu be capable having programmable injection sequencing. I have no idea if a motec can do this but considering all the hype about how great they are, i'd say probably. This way you can still run large injectors and have a sane AFR at low engine speeds, and a good idle quality. 1/2 the injectors fire where they would with a fully sequential system, and the other 1/2 are fired 60 crankshaft degrees earlier than they need to be but it still runs because the fuel just sits in the manifold on the back of the intake valve till its drawn into the engine. The alternate method of wiring paired injectors uses the same pairs as the waste spark ignition, and fires all injectors twice per 720 degree crank rotation. This is batch fire operation, and means unless your running small injectors you cant get a small enough injector pulse width to still get good atomisation of fuel, and have a good AFR at idle. So your idle will suffer with a big injector system. Parallel wire in's are complicated, but i think really worth while doing if its done right. Especially if your trying to get away with running a fully programmable ecu in a car in a state where aftermarket ecu's are illegal. I heard about a parallel wire in system on a skyline that would pass all the tests the police could do on it. Unplug the ECU and it wont start.. (aftermarket management gets power from ECCS relay). Unplug MAF sensors causes limp mode... (programmable input from MAF sensors to auxilary on aftermarket ECU triggers a run rich and rev limit function). I am told that police are doing these checks in Victoria on modified vehicles. A simple parallel wire in would just pinch signals from the temp sensors, throttle sensor, and CAS. In most cases i think the CAS sensor will require a special opto-isolated input interface module of sorts so it doesnt mess with standard ecu operation.

Im inclined to think youve done a turbo wheel in too. If it still idles and drives ok but doesnt make boost it wont be an intercooler pipe. Your last post reads like an instruction manual on how to kill ceramic wheel turbo's. 1 bar is the max boost most people that live dangerously dare to run. If your running that and driving like you do, a small boost spike of 1/2 a PSI will put you into the death zone...

Can you elaborate on this? Sure you can get inaccurate readings if your not careful, but my thoughts are if you do your checks a few times and compare with micrometer readings its safe.

Yep like Scott's said there are so many things to check when assembling an engine. Pre-assembly checks and technicques are critical. If you cant drive a micrometer and dont know how to use plastigauge properly its a job best left to a pro. The most time consuming part of assembling an engine is all the pre-asselbly tolerance checks. Before I install a crank and bearings in a block I check the machined block clearances, then the bearing clearances, and then compare them too the crank. Never take a machine shops word for what has been done. Starting with a bare block, the main caps/girdle should be torqued to spec and the block crank sadel ID measured with a micrometer to make sure they are all indeed round and the same size. Then I install the bearings in the block, re-torque main caps/girdle and measure the bearing surface ID again, and compare them to the crank main OD. Then I measure crank thust surface distance and center main thrust with a micrometer as well and compare to be sure there is propper thrust. Next the crank is installed with oil on the bearings in the block and the main caps are slowly tightened wrist tight with a ratchet and then a torque wrench, all the while checkig the crank still turns freely. Last of all its all cleaned again and the mains are checked with plastigauge to ensure propper clearance. I write everything down while doing these checks, and if the phone rings... start again. If friends show up and want to talk BS while your doing this.. tell them to piss off till your done. I generally assemble an engine twice completely before doing a final assembly. Its the only way to be sure everything is 100%.

Ive read somewhere that not all blocks are able to reliably be bored to 87.5mm due to the cylinder thicknesses being too small. Perhaps the 24u block, or the group A 05u blocks and of course the GT block. But most o5u's from the 32 and 33 gtrs have larger water galleries, more designed for street and reliability than all out performance. Of course i could be completely wrong. I never found much information on people using the 87.5mm bore. Sydney kid posted a few times he had used them but im sure there are checks that are made before the machining is done. (I could be wrong about this... as what little i know about the block types has been from researching, not from 15 years hands on experience building race engines.) Sadly those guys dont easily share all their knowledge... you have to filter through the thousands of posts that theyve done over the years and pull out the occasional tid bit of valuable information.

Hmm my thoughts on a streetable 9 second gtr engine... 24u block JUN2.7 87mm bore tomei or jun rods techline ceramic/teflon and tfc coatings on pistons and bearings jun/trust pump with head restrictor mods, or even better dry sump with scavenge from head and sump and no oil restrictor modifications. step 2 cams to4z or t51 kai decent engine management (wolf v5 or haltech e11) so you can run a launch control system with anti-lag But seriously if you can afford to build this 20k+ engine youd be way better off talking to a shop that builds engines like this all the time instead of asking questions on a forum. You dont want to make a mistake with parts that cost what these parts will cost you. If you have it built and tuned by the pros you will get the result you really want.

PWR.. runs at thermostat temp all the time (in Cairns) the moment your above 70km/h. Never gets above 82 or so in traffic. I have no idea how thick it is.

I did a LOT of research into this a little while ago. The general results discovered were... Full counterweighted cranks arent necessarily the best option for a drag engine. Less rotating weight will rev faster, and longevity not really a factor in a drag engine. Counterweights on the other hand in street and circuit racing engines benefit from less harmonics, bearings last longer and damage to other components such as the oil pump are reduced. RPMGTR's 2.9lt engine was a spaced block -1mm stroke aftermarket RB30 billet crank with SR20 rods and custom pistons. There is very little diference between a tomei and a hks 2.8 stroker (geometry wise). The tomei runs a 2mm shorter rod than the hks kit which makes for a shorter rod ratio. If making your own stroker kit, CP makes pistons with a gudgen pin height as low as 26.5mm. Tomei is a 30mm (also stock height), uses with a 119.5mm rod and 77.7mm crank . HKS use a 28mm pin height and stock length rod. CP also do thick crown pistons if your planning on running 35+lb boost pressures and crazy revs. Mark99's RB30 offset ground crank setup is a lot more complicated than people might think. It uses rb26 121.5mm stock length rods, and low deck pistons to keep it all inside a stock height block. When the engine is stroked that much with short rods and no spacer is used on the block, the piston skirts at BDC will make contact with the crankshaft. To get around this the crankshaft is offset ground a little to reduce the stroke, and material is also machined off each side of the big end journels. Price having this done... its really not cheap. Mark is a machinist so its not a problem for him to do it. Apexi make a 2.9lt kit thats imposible to get good information about. Its a 81mm stroke, 87 bore with a 118.5mm rod, so it will fit in a stock height block as well. Now the plan for my new engine is diferent again. Im considering using a RD28 crank which has an 83mm stroke (maybe de-stroked to 81-82mm). Then using some custom length pauter rods and some CP pistons it will also fit inside a stock height block, and also be close on 3lt with an 87mm bore. This recipe has been done before and is a great match for GTRS's, Nismo 581's and 10cm t517'z. More of a street engine though than a drag engine. You all know that equals a very drivable and easy 500hp to the tyres. The goal in my case is to make a heap more low and mid range torque. With higher compression for better response as well. Sure it doesnt rev like a 26 but it wont need too either. How many of us run to redline in 4th and 5th every day anyway? With this engine setup you'd just change gears and it would be just as quick, plus the bottom end is way stronger than a 26 bottom end. The rd28 runs wider rod journels, pauter rods are bullet proof, and as they are custom along with the pistons, 22mm gudgens can be added at the same time if desired. For those that are hung up on piston speeds and rod ratio's as being a "big thing" here are the calculations. Piston speeds are in m/s. I think crankshaft dynamic vibrations would become a bigger issue before piston speeds cause piston or rod failures. I still think most engine failures are either tuning errors or build mistakes anyway these days. The materials parts are being made from all pretty solid and reliable these days.

Going through all the results i saw a request to know what standard R34 gtr spring rate measurements are. These measurements are from standard non vspec non NUR 2002 R34 GTR springs. Front: Coil ID = 97 mm top Coil ID = 66.5mm Bottom Wire D = 13 mm # of Coils = 5 1/8 turns Rear: Coil ID = 102.5 mm top Coil ID = 88.4 MM Bottom Wire D = 13 mm # of Coils = 4 1/8 turns

Ammendment to above... because i cant edit it! The fronts have 8.5 turns with 4 wound closely Coil ID = 96/70 mm Wire OD = 13 mm # of Coils = 8.5 turns The rears have 7.5 turns with 3 wound closely Coil ID = 102/91 mm Wire OD = 13 mm # of Coils = 7.5 turns

Hi Gary, Im trying to setup a nice highway cruising suspension setup from the myriad of parts i have collected. This is a pic of some R34 GTR shocks with some unknown brand of spring that were on my 2nd set of bilsteins. The front and rear springs measure the same ID/OD as the stock R34 springs, and are 13mm in diameter. The fronts have 8.5 turns with 4 wound closely, 96mm ID The rears have 7.5 turns with 3 would closely, 102mm ID I hoping this will make a fair match. I'd rather not have to pay to have my 2nd set of bilsteins re-valved. Cheers, Ian

Free bump for having the same airbox as I have.