GTRNUR

Thats the same turbo was suggested by beer barron in this thread 2 yrs ago. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ll+single+turbo but it never eventuated. So far all ive found with search is that URAS has a K5 on a rb26 thats setup for around 300rwkw. Also aparently a factor when boost is approaching 1.4 bar is wastegate flow and boost control. Seems there isnt too many people that head down this path.

Straight forward question... For a daily driver, ease of maintenance, simplicity of installation etc which would be the single to go for on a stock RB26, to not run more than 1.4bar or so and have comparable respnse to GTSS's. Or is this just not ever done...?

I got one of these and it works pretty well. Although its not the best assembled piece of electronics. If you do get a digital meter i'd spend a few hundred more and get something better than this unit.

All good, no confusion... I just thought it might have been an option before i go buy a pair of tomei dumps instead, or nismoids's trust split front pipes.

So, do the mines dumps fit a pair of T517z's or was that only the custom ones you had?

And this too. Looks like your authorative DNS servers arent accepting connections so everyone is running from cached records in DNS even though the TTL has probably expired. > set type=a > server ns1.nexcess.net DNS request timed out. timeout was 2 seconds. Default Server: ns1.nexcess.net Address: 69.39.81.205 > www.skylinesaustralia.com Server: ns1.nexcess.net Address: 69.39.81.205 DNS request timed out. timeout was 2 seconds. DNS request timed out. timeout was 2 seconds. *** Request to ns1.nexcess.net timed-out > www.skylinesaustralia.net Server: ns1.nexcess.net Address: 69.39.81.205 DNS request timed out. timeout was 2 seconds. DNS request timed out. timeout was 2 seconds. *** Request to ns1.nexcess.net timed-out >

> set q=any > skylinesaustralia.com Server: UnKnown Address: 172.16.1.1 DNS request timed out. timeout was 2 seconds. *** Request to UnKnown timed-out > skylinesaustralia.net Server: UnKnown Address: 172.16.1.1 skylinesaustralia.net nameserver = ns1.nexcess.net skylinesaustralia.net nameserver = ns2.nexcess.net skylinesaustralia.net MX preference = 10, mail exchanger = mail.skylinesaustra lia.net skylinesaustralia.net primary name server = ns1.nexcess.net responsible mail addr = admin.skylinesaustralia.net serial = 1219358344 refresh = 7200 (2 hours) retry = 2048 (34 mins 8 secs) expire = 1048576 (12 days 3 hours 16 mins 16 secs) default TTL = 21600 (6 hours) skylinesaustralia.net internet address = 208.69.126.31 mail.skylinesaustralia.net internet address = 208.69.126.31 > > set type=ns > skylinesaustralia.com Server: UnKnown Address: 172.16.1.1 Non-authoritative answer: skylinesaustralia.com nameserver = ns1.nexcess.net skylinesaustralia.com nameserver = ns2.nexcess.net ns1.nexcess.net internet address = 69.39.81.205 ns2.nexcess.net internet address = 208.69.120.2 > skylinesaustralia.net Server: UnKnown Address: 172.16.1.1 Non-authoritative answer: skylinesaustralia.net nameserver = ns1.nexcess.net skylinesaustralia.net nameserver = ns2.nexcess.net ns1.nexcess.net internet address = 69.39.81.205 ns2.nexcess.net internet address = 208.69.120.2 >

Is this the DNS related issue still? Ive cleared the caches on my DNS servers and still cant get access.

Im first dibs on the dump pipes. I want to see some pics first is all...

Is this a plastic or fiberglass lip?

Its easy to spend $6K if you maintain your car properly, replace tyres once every 2 years etc. It works out on average between $100 and $150/week depending on how you drive your car so it seems. I started a thread on this topic about a week ago.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sk...l&hl=income

Yeah i'd say thats a fair opinion. But I only partially agree with you that GTR owners are generally enthusiasts. That might have been the case a few years ago but the because the R32 GTR's are so cheap these days (for a bad one), any 20yr old with a bank loan can afford to get themselves one. Shortly there after aquiring their GTR they pull the boost restrictor and then blow the turbo's or fry the clutch by doing 8000 RPM launches to impress their mates. Sure its entertaining and fun as hell. Then once broken they park it in a shed somewhere where they continue to pay for the loan and registration of a car that collects dust. What this means it that the GTR's that are on the road indeed are eith owned by enthuesiests, new owners that havent broken their car yet, or people that got themselves a 2nd loan. It costs about $6000 per year to just maintain a GTR. If you add to that the spending of another $10K in purchases of high quality upgrades and fitting, even an R32 GTR is out of reach for most young people. If you cant afford to buy a new engine for the car inside a month its the wrong car for you. Fact is they are a japanese supercar, so although cheap everything is expensive for them. Good at straight line speed/drag? Good around corners? Good at motorkarna events? No modification or list of modifications ever makes one car better than an other car. Tuning one aspect of a car always takes some other aspect away. A stock un-tuned GTR as it is, is a very well rounded car, not built in any way to achieve in one area more than another.

With maintenance I am referring to how well you maintain the car to keep it at its current level of condition. Are you 100% on top of maintenance, or are you neglecting it are the two extremes. Great replies so far. Interesting to see another near stock R33 GTR costing $5000/year ($100/week) to maintain at near new condition. Thats what mine was before I resprayed the front bar and replaced the tyres in the same year.

I know that we arent supposed to chat on sale threads but if I were in the market for a 1200hp engine that is as your selling it there is only 2 ways you could buy it. 1. See the dyno run in person and watch it be removed from the car. 2. Inspect it in disassembled form and have the parts individually inspected by a suitably qualified NDT engineer. Isnt $12k way too cheap for an engine like this?...

I had a thought the other day about why I keep hearing about broken skylines one after the other which are parked in garages all over the place which are taking forever to get repaired. It seems to me that there are way too many young guys getting $18-25K loans and buying an R32 GTR and then blowing the engine up. Then they are not able to afford to get the car back on the road again in a reasonable amount of time (2-4 weeks I consider to be reasonable), because all their remaining income goes to loan repayments. So I thought I'd put this out there. The idea of the thread is to allow current and perspective Skyline owners to post up what it costs to maintain their car to the level that they maintain it too, factoring the modifications done to the car and how they treat it. Personally i maintain my car to a very high level. I use top quality everything, and if something has to be replaced with new factory or aftermarket parts I only use genuine or best quality available products. Same applies for servicing materials. I use redline products only. Others might use non genuine parts, 2nd hand or chinese parts, and no frills brand serviceing products. There are costs that come up from time to time such as brake rotors and pads, paint repairs etc that are the biger ones for some of us. Then there are those that destroy an engine or two per year. Add up all your costs for everthing including insurance, a piece of rubber hose here and there, tyres, windscreen wipers, car wash, servicing costs etc. Thats what I'd like to see a total for for everyone's cars. So here is the template: Car make/type/model : Nissan Skyline R3X GTS/R? Year : 19xx/200x Overall condition of car: 1/10 (broken and undrivable) to 10/10 (showroom) How is the car treated: 1/10 (I drive like a grandmother) to 10/10 (I circuit race and drive like a Stig on speed) Maintenance level: 1/10 (I put fuel and sometimes oil in it) to 10/10 (I am a majority shareholder of Nissan) Modifications: Stock/bolt on's only/Internals/full house Insurance: None/3rd party/Full comprensive/Other Estimaged power: RWHP or AWHP Estimated $ spent per year to maintain: $xxxx per annum / $xx / month (NOT COUNTING UPGRADES or Registration) And here is my car: Car make/type/model : Nissan Skyline R33 GTR Year : 1996 Overall condition of car: 8/10 How is the car treated: 4/10 (Daily driven with the occasional 7/10 thrashing) Maintenance level: 9/10 Modifications: All bolt on's except turbo's Insurance: Full comprensive Estimaged power: 240awkw Estimated $ spent per year to maintain: $8560 per annum / $165 per week approx. ($2500 in tyres this year, + 1200 front bar respray) Please try to keep responses to a minimum. I'd really like this to be a useful thread to try and stop some of the younger car owners out there getting themselves stuck in debt they cant get out of while having a car that ends up getting sold for parts. Cheers, Ian

Well i bought a gtr because I love the handling. I prefer the 32 over the 33 because it feels more nimble, though i think part of that is the soft tune my 33 power fc currently has. I have no dount that every single GTS-T out ther with an aftermarket turbo will absolutely blow the doors off me in a straight line, and also on a track where speeds over 180k's are seen regularly. However since i live nowhere near a track and the most chalannging drive i get is up and down the near by ranges im happy with small turbo's response and handling. I couldnt give a crap what other people think about the car. I like it and thats all that matters to me. And if your stupid enough to buy a car to get you into the "in" croud or get you some skirt well good luck to you...

Not yet, but im chasing that this morning. Obrien are supposed to be sourcing it but if i wait for them to do it it'll be another month. I'll post up the part number when I know it.

Hi, The local nissan spare parts dealer tells me nobody has ever orderd one of these seals from japan and there is none in australia, which i find very hard to believe. The non genuine piece of shit seal that obriens have put in there looks crap, and doesnt hold the trim down around the windscreen wipers properly so its going to flap around at 100k's. I need to source a new genuine seal ASAP. I dont care what it costs but its got to be from a genuine nissan parts dealer. Does anyone know who i can contact next? Cheers, Ian

What is this thing? Do you have any pics of one installed on a car?

It seems the center grill part is part of your bar on the pics in your gallery? The center grill is a seperate part with my current GTR bar, and the mesh sections are seperate as well, whith the badge that clips into the middle. I'd hate to get a bar thats like that and it forces me to having to make up some dodgy mount so the GTR badge can go back where it belongs. Thats what concerns me about all the aftermarket parts around. You dont know exactly what surprises your in for till its on your door step... and a few thousand $$$ later. Do you have anymore pics of the blonde?

Yeah i came across pics of your car while looking for examples of the JUN kit. Height is an issue as the roads in cairns suck ass. Its like the roads are made for people that drive 4wd's and SUV's. My GTR is a daily driver so i need to keep it practical.

Im in Cairns. There is nothing in my area. I was thinking UAS for a non genuine 400R bar... but im leaning towards getting a genuine all plastic bar because they are stronger and dont shatter. My car is in very good condition and I dont want to compromise it by putting crap quality parts on it. Everything I do add has got to be an improvement over whats there already. Ive attached a pic of a clean looking R33 with a genuine 400R bar I like the look of. Genuine does look way better than fiberglass replica's too. Seeing that it bolts together as 2 parts make a lot of visual diference (to me at least).

I want good quality so I figured going with a genuine JUN bar is the way to go. Most copied "xxxx Style" kits ive seen are crap. I am leaning towards the JUN bar now over the R400. boostin_r33, I think the nismo lights i current have get removed from the black plastic frame they are in and then put into the JUN bar. The bar currently on the car is a series 1.5 (like the car), with a genuine series 3 lip and non genuine N1 vents. It does look very nice, except for when it was re-sprayed recently ive discovered they did a crap job plastic welding it so its cracked again. Added to that the retards sikaflexed the lip to the bar so its a bit of a mess. Can anyone confirm if these aftermarket bars like the JUN and R400 bars still bolt onto the inner guards / under trays like the factory ones? I'd prefer to keep all the aerodynamic aids in place...? I figured the JUN kit consider the car its based on would probably still have all this stuff fit...

I want those wheels anyway! It was going to be LMGT1 or LMGT3's I was going to get. What do you want for them? Tracking down a 400R bar is going to be a neat trick too. Id prefer original to fiberglass. I think im wishing...

Thats a GTS-T right? There interior trim is a little diferent. The GTR trim has a sort of soft coating on it rather than a hard finish normally. I found this out when I bought a replacement light switch trim part off ebay and noticed the trim coatings were completely diferent to my GTR. Either that... or what is already in my GTR is not stock... Dont you find all that blue light a bit much when your driving at night? Has anyone else got more pics? Cheers, Ian