GTRNUR

I thought it wasnt paint though. Rather some sort of coating. Seems to attract dust very well not that that is a good thing. I just figured there was a propper way, not a back yarder way of doing this..?

Thanks. I cant make up my mind whether to go Jun or 400R. I think the 400R bar sits a little higher so its probably a little more practical.

Hi all, Any idea where i can source a full R33 GTR JUN body kit from? Also, how well do these kits fit? Will it still bolt onto all the factory under-body aerodynamic trays etc? Cheers, Ian

Hi all, I want to source new, or get my existing interior trim re-finished. The i am referring too is the plastic trim inserts parts around gear shift, and the entire dash. Is there a company that offeres some soft of re-coating, or re-finishing to restore it to perfect condition? I dont want some crazy custom colour or bullshit looking carbon fibre finish... Cheers, Ian

Yeah i agree with you about having a drivable car and not necessarily having to run at the 100hp per cylinder mark. I figure most car enthusiests that do get to own a car that is stupidly over powered proably in the end gets rid of it and trades down to something with a more practical power range. Personally i hate big turbo cars. Lag, followed by the lack of traction that follows. A problem caused by running a turbo so big that its flow is in the middle of its efficency range when the engine is at its redline. I much prefer having a car thats matched so that in the middle of its rev range, the turbo's are pumping at the middle of their efficency range as well. And dam! 500rwhp in an evo! Those poor tyres...

Safe boost pressures come down to if your within your turbo's efficency range, and if your tuner can tune the car accordingly. Highest boosts ive seen and experienced on 98 octane was was 30lb on a 2jz making a little over 500rwhp (GT35R), and a RB3025 with 32lb making 625rwhp(custom T51 varient). 4th gear traction loss at 180K's, yes. If your engine has the forged pistons and rods to support at least 100hp per cylinder whats holding you back...

Have you pulled the sump off to see if how bad the damage is? Is an R33 or R32 engine? What exactly caused the failure? Bearings dont just fail.. Can you arrange a pallet and collection by TNT to have the engine freighted to Cairns? Will you accept paypal payment?... (17 posts and no trader history isnt inspiring).. Pics?

So my plan is to build a stroked RB26 and make a torque monster of an engine. Ive read all there is to read about stroker engines on the forum and have been particularly interested in Mark99 and RPMGTR's RB29 builds and their successes in achieving what they set out to do. This would be my first GTR engine build, though i have all the tools for engine assembly and am not a stranger to assembling performance engines. I will be getting assistance from someone who has built 500kw engines before but intend to do 99% of the work myself. My goals are to keep the RB26 block size to make fitment not a problem. Im aiming for max capacity, highish compression (9:0 or more), and a moderate size turbo system. (2530's/T517z's) I want monster mid range torque, dont really care about power at the end of the rev range because thats not where most of the driving is done. I will sacrifice top end RPM to gain mid range torque... so i dont have to rev it as hard. It should make 350kw as a maximum goal realisticly. Anymore than that i think is getting a little un-practical for the street. Im planning on using some CP raised pin pistons and a long rod, probably pauter and some sort of aftermarket crank either HKS or a GT500 spec crank. I have access to a great machine shop that can add a 2-3 mm to the crank stroke (80mm max im thinking), and then run a smaller big end bearing in the pauter rods (1.85" rod big end bearing). As its not going to be a huge reving engine i doubt a few mm will reduce crank strength too much that its a worry. 80mm will give 2850cc as opposed to the 2770cc of the HKS/tomei cranks. A real 2.8lt. Ive done the math on various engine combinations and it would seem (but i dont really know...) the upper maximum is possible around 43-45m/s, with a safe limit of around 40m/s. This was based on an RB26 at 10,000 - 11,000 RPM. This data is assuming a full drag engine of course. I just want reliability for the street so I like to factor in some over engineering. Data from CP about what is safe seems to be hard to come by. So my questions for the pro's out there that want to share some information... 1. What is considered a safe piston speed, assuming your using a CP piston ? Ive read that 450hp is a more or less maximum for the 05u R32/R33 block if its driven like a mad man. Above that they aparently have a reputation of cracking along the side of the block due to the block twisting... according to my "search engine results"... is there any truth in this. Who can say...I am not sure whether to build use an R34 RB26 engine as a core, or if I should build a bottom end in a 24U block and just source a complete head instead. 2. Will the 05u support a 350awkw engine that will be making considerably more torque than the average 2.8lt, or should I just get a 24U block and be done with it? What about R34 GTR blocks...? 3. Engine assembly tolerences. When assembling engines of a "built" nature, are all the specs kept to be fairly standard, or is are a few of the tolerences loosened up a little, such as main and big end bearing clearences to improve oil flow and bearing cooling etc? What about changes to end float thrust to allow a little more oil flow , so the thrust bearing isnt carrying too much load from that heavy clutch when your foot's on the pedal and your about to launch? 4. What about piston - bore clearances? Does everyone generally machine their blocks for 87mm if using an 87mm piston (assuming the piston manufacture's built in clearance 0.003" or whatever will be ideal)? 5. Internal engine parts coatings.... Specifically teflon coatings for the piston side skirts to reduce piston/bore wear due to the nature of the stroker engines having more piston rocking. But also teflon coatings for main and rod bearings, and ceramic coating piston crowns. Ive had competition coatings in brisbane do coatings for quite a few engine parts for me, but ive not heard of the GTR croud getting in on this yet. I figured I'd give the ceramic crown coatings a miss due to the RB26 having oil squirters for piston cooling so why bother with ceramic coatings, but what is the general concensis on teflon coatings? I think thats about it for now. Im sure there will be many more questions to come. Cheers, Ian

Ok another update... Ive put in a new windscreen last week as the old one had a few scratches on it. N1 vents are re-fitted and the Alpine multimedia system has had a DVD/USB memory stick player added that will play MPEG4/DIVX and ever other known video format. Very cool, its like a mobile cinema now. Ive added a few more pics of the car as it is now. Price is now $30k as it is now, or $28500 without the boot sub + amp. Yes Ive put the price back up a little. Frankly Im not broke nor desperate to sell it, and I have seen the quality of the other GTR's on offer and they arent even close to the condition of mine. (with the exceptoin of a red R33 also listed on this forum which is also a good buy). Here are some pics.. Its overcast and raining so im going to take some more next week outside if its sunny. Yes that is AVP2 playing on the DVD. PM or call me if your interested. Its going on carsales next week. Cheers, Ian 0434147478

Congrats on the trophy. Any results on the tuning of the engine? If your tuning skills are anything like your assembly skills it should be impressive.

Hi All, I'm dropping the price of my GTR and am offering some options to try to sell the car faster. I am upgrading to an R34 so this car has got to go. First off I have done some upgrades to the car since the first post. I have added a PLX Devices wideband AFR system using the DM100 and SM-AFR kit. I was about to add turbo's and do the 300kw upgrade but ive decided I want an R34 GTR instead. All it needs is injectors, turbos and a tune. (I have a complete trust 8cm T517z kit i may negotiate on as well) The car now has slotted RDA front rotors, as the old ones were approaching 28.5mm and needed machining. I have also had the front bar re-sprayed so the car looks great now. You will notice the N1 vents are not glued in yet as I've been told to let the paint harden for a week first. They get glued in on the coming weekend. Ive had a tuner check out the tune and it is safe, and the Power FC version is 4.10. The CD stacker has been upgraded to a 6 disc MP3 stacker. The Multi-media system has an upgrade arriving soon that will allow it to play DVD, MPEG4 and DIVX movies from DVD disc or USB memory stick. I'll have that put in the the car when it arrives, no change to sale prices. Ive added $1500 worth of sub and amp too the boot, but I want to keep that unless a new buyer decided they want to pay $1500 for it to keep it in the car. Here is a pic of the painted front bar... The Price drop... As it is at the moment with all the specs listed in the first post plus this one I'll take $28,000 for it. If i remove the DM100 and SM-AFR kit and the PWR Radiator, and put the stock GTR radiator back in the car i'll take $1,000 off the price. I also have two other suspension options that I can swap into the car to further reduce the price. I can put in a set of factory R34 GTR shocks with either stock or lowered springs and i'll accept $27,000. Or... I also have a second set of Bilsteins with some lowered progressive rate 4.75 and 3.75KG springs that I can swap into the car, and I will then accept $27,000. The diference here is the R34 factory GTR suspension is the softest. The Progressive rate bilsteins are a little firmer than the Sydney Kid setup and would be ideal if you were able to participate in the occasional track day (which I can never do as Cairns has no tracks and the worst roads in the country... ). I have a heap of stock parts left as well. Stock shifter, rear camber adjustment bushes and some other things... I am willing to negotiate. With everything pulled out if the car that will unbolt and stock parts restored i'll part with it for $25,000.. So there are options. Current K's are just under 62,000. Next service due at 65,000k 12 months rego was just paid, expires 6/2009. No tyre kickers or low ball offers. Cheers, Ian 0434 147 478

All Scat's forged parts are "forged" in china, but much of the machining is done in america aparently. What isnt clear is exactly what is US machined and what is Chinese machined. Scat has been a major player in the VW aftermarket parts scene for years. I cant remember where i read it, but it was from one of the top VW drag engine builders in the US. Clearly where the comments were going were to do with concerns about parts quality from china, because we've all seen the ebay parts that are available these days. Well there is some reason to be concerned. While im sure SCAT is working to improve quality controls on their chinese manufactured products, demand for cheaper product seems to be not helping improve that quality. There have been issues with some parts that were machined with terrible tolerances such as lifters not hardened or radiused properly resulting in camshaft and lifter lobe failure, pushrods with the ends rattling loose, high ratio rocker assemblies that have too much clearance and the ratio's differ from one rocker to the next (when measured with a dial indicator) because they arent machined the same. Good news is though i've not heard much of people reporting crankshaft or rod failures in recent years. There was some quite a few years back though and for a while Scat had a an australian reputation of "scatter" when some of their crankshafts were breaking, though that was unconfirmed whether they were the forged or the cast cranks. Seems to me that its not often you hear of an engine breaking solely on power. Its usually an oil system issue, or at worst a rod bolt letting go. On topic again... Great build progress... love your work! Cheers, Ian

Hi All, Ive had the front bar and lip re-sprayed on my GTR and am re-gapping all the joints. One of the problems i had last time is the series 3 headlights were rubbing on the front bar, and the flat black paint had rubbed away on the under sides of the lenses. I've wet and dry sanded the lights back and had them re-painted flat black to clean them up, but i want to stop this happening again. So... Is there a rubber spacer or something to allow a gap to exist between the series 3 lights and the front bar to stop this happening? I'd appreciate any pics people can post showing a closeup of the gap between the bottom of the headlights (series 3 if possible) and the front bar. Cheers, Ian

I never put the GTS4 on the dyno.

I wonder how much of the diference between a resposive HKS 2530 tune is to the "average" tune that people are having done. How much drivability and mid range torque is being lost because cars are not being tuned properly? Purely seat of my pants assessment, my R32 GTS4 with its laggy till 4500 rpm GT25BB40 turbo had better low end response from 2000-3500 than the R33 gtr has. The RB26 has a larger stroke and bore, and a little more compression, so it should feel more responsive. Is this response "diference" all in the differential gearing or was it in the tune? The GTS4 was running around 100 more hp than the GTR currently is too. The main diference is the GTR runs a power fc and was tuned by someone on the goldcoast and the GTS4 ran a wolf and was tuned by me. I wonder if the GTR tune is just a "safe" tune and has its ignition retarded by 2-3 degrees than it could potentially be in the mid range area's, and thats where its loosing that mid range torque. All too often you read threads about how much HP does it make, but nobody drives everywhere at redline. Thats why Snowman's dyno sheet is so sexy. That mid range torque that makes it a fun streetable car. I am contemplating doing a before and after dyno run with the current power FC tune, and then with the new Wolf V5 ecu im installing next week. Withing changing anything else. The results arent going to be comparing ecu capabilities... more so i wonder if i will gain more mid range torque because my understanding of MAP based tuning is better than MAF...

Well here is a pic of one of my T517z 8m turbo's. I guess i just need to find a HKS GTSS/GT2530 for comparison now...

Thanks Beer Baron. I do like the tomei ones they look very nice. Im not in a hurry at the moment to do the turbo and dump pipe swap, though if you do want to sell what you have let me know a price? So is the problem with other aftermarket dumps pipes used with T517z's the the wastegate flap valve interfering with the dump pipes that have a seperate wastegate port? Like the hks ones? Why couldnt that be fixed with a die grinder, or can it be? If only i had one of everything ever made I could see what fits with what...

What about aluminium flywheels? Ive seen them used on porsche's and they greatly improve response. They also make the car painful to maintain speed especially up and down hills but thats another matter.

Nismoid, are you interested in a genuine Nismo front pipe as a partial swap for the trust dumps and front pipe? What are you selling them for? Anyone else want to let me know whats going to fit...

I'll add that the car already has a nismo front pipe, so id prefer to not have to change that to the trust setup with the crazy long trust dumps that i have also seen. Just replacing the dumps is all i really want to do... if thats whats recommended.

Hi all, Going to install some T517z's on my gtr and havent made up my mind which dumps to use. Ive seen SK posted that some dumps will interfere with the actuators on the T517z, but ive also seen posts where people are using HKS and Xforce dumps on them. URAS aparently used stock dumps on his T517z engine.. but ive been unable to confirm. Im told that dump upgrades are one of those "must do" mods, for the gtr. Everything else is in place to make 300kw so all i need is the dumps, or to port the ones I already have... Suggestions? Cheers, Ian

Ive spent hours searching this site for specific technical data about all sorts of things. I spend more time using search than I do reading, its bloody anoying... To answer the question the answer is no it wont bolt on. The T25 flanges are diferent. The distance between the bolt holes on the long side of the rectangle on the GT28R is longer than the GT2860R-5/7 turbo's.

Great work with your build. Its refreshing to see someone sharing their assembly process with such detail. Now when someone has RB26/30 buld questions they can just come to your thread instead of being flamed for not using the search button (which produces more BS than real useful information). Do you have a purpose in mind for the car? Drag, street, track or all of the above?

In a tuned application coppers are less prone to fouling than iridium plugs. Iridiums are great if your car is stock and your not wanting to change plugs every oil change, or 2nd oil change. With copper and depending on how well your car is tuned the plugs will last (reliably) anywhere from 5000-15000k. Thats based on my personal experiences with my previous skyline which occasionally ran an anti-lag system. It was an r32 gts4 rb20det making about 370awhp. I used to get about 220k/tank when driving like a maniac, and 560k/tank on the open road. BCPR7-ES from memory...

Technically all alloy bull bars are illegal on toyota's etc for the same reason. Factory plastic bumpers on modern cars are a little more forgiving than solid alloy or steel. Yet i've never seen a 4wd defected because it had an aftermarket bull bar on it. If its not OEM its technically not legal to fit it unless you get an engineer to over-rule it. Yes that means everything from exhaust systems to brake rotors. Even if its ADR approved, if its not OEM factory fitted (or a factory optional) equipment its not legal unless approved by an engineer. ADR just makes it easier to get the engineering approvals done.