GTRNUR

Well its turned out to be the shaft seal on the number 3 cylinder throttle shaft. Applying a little pressure to the shaft changes the tone of the sound its making. It looks like i can replace it without having to disassemble the entire plenum too which is nice, though where can i source these seals from? I've found this... http://www.xs-engineering.com/xsstore/pc/v...;idproduct=8261 But is there anyone in australia that sells them, or perhaps knows the dimensions so i can source them from a bearing shop? Im going to try Nissan tomorrow, and see how i go...

Hi all, I've noticed an odd whistling noise from my engine occasionally when the car is idling. It nearly sounds like a buzzing alarm, like some kind of electrical warning buzzer. The interesting thing is it only happens when its warming up. The noise goes away when i crack the throttle open. To locate where it was coming from i stuck a hose in my ear and went probing all around the plenum and throttle bodies. I found that the sound appears to be coming from the cylinder number 3 end of the throttle shaft. Do these shafts have a seal in them... and is it a total pain in the ass to replace, or have i likely miss-diagnosed the problem?

Im using twin air to air intercoolers that will be mounted in the fronts of the rear guards. There will be a big hole that opens to the intercoolers in each guard. They are widened 100mm so there is about 220x400mm of space for the air opening. The cores are larger and will be ducted to the engine bay, so the 911 fan pulls air through the intercoolers and ducts at idle and when the engine is running. Its doubtful i'd be trying to drive the car with a max power tune in a motorkarna event. Even with a light-medium tune its going to take some getting used to. I have a heap to get familiar with, with regards to the suspension setup of the new chassis as well, so im going to start with a low power tune and play with the chassis till I become good enough a driver to be able to handle driving it with more power. Considering how infrequently events happen near where i live, this will take a while. I have never been able to find any good reading material to explain the real benefits of split pulse turbines. I understand how they feed one set of cylinders to one side of the housing, and another set to another part of the housing. I am guessing that the angle the gasses hit the wheel are optimised for response? Is this the reason for the twin wastegate setup...? one for each turbine intake? Is that why the T51 setups on GTR's ive seen use a pipe from each side of the turbine housing that T's back to a single wastegate? Shouldnt they be using twin gates as well, so the exhaust pressures from the front 3 cylinders cant balance to the rear 3?

A big part of what im trying to achieve is keeping the car semi streetable. Finding the balance between drivability, reliability and perforamance is the challange and there has to be a compromise made somewhere. Keeping the CR down should help with streetability to a degree by keeping the off boost response more managable. When its on boost i expect its going to be a handful. When at what RPM that happens at is my main concern. My last turbo engine (2332cc, 84x94)with low compression had twice the throttle response off boost that my GTR has. I'd put that down to the displacement increase and the lightened flywheel. Its rod ratio was low at 1.61 as well so that was probably a factor with the low end torque it made. The new motor is 1.65 but has 4mm more stroke than the previous one. Whats a TS? and why the twin wastegates? My previous setup ran a 38mm external gate with the GT28R-320 (0.6/0.64) and it had no boost regulation problems? My understanding of wastegates is that it needs to be large enough to flow enough gas to maintain a constant boost pressure without having the boost pressure rising toward the top end of the rpm range, yet also be small enough that it can properly regulate boost during the early stages of when boost is being achieved. If its too big boost could fluctuate when the wastegate starts to open. Is that why 2 wastegates... a first and second stage to boost control? The engines cooling is covered. It uses water jacketed heads and a porsche 911 turbo fan/alternator with a custom shroud. Twin front mounted radiators regulate water temps and a water/oil heat exchanger is used to maintain oil temps. The engine is dry sumped as well with the case running a vacuum. It doesnt use oil squirters to cool the pistons but i've had Competition Coatings in brisbane do the ceramic/teflon coatings treatments on them.

Ive built a new chassis that is going to be engineered and hopefully approved for registration next week. The goal is motorkarna and drags depending on the tune. Yes i had considered single and i have run two diferent styles of single turbo motor in the car previously. I guess i wanted to try twin turbo to try something diferent. I enjoy building something and working around the engineering chalanges as much as i enjoy driving the car. Space for a large turbo is a big problem too. As it is you have to cut away parts of the body to clear engine and gearbox changes to make things fit, but thats pretty much considered normal practice for vw's these days too. I didnt want to go completely overboard with the cutting away of metal with this car though as the body is near perfect. Yes water injection is definatly on the cards. I was considering a CO2 spray system for the intercoolers too, so if I am pushing the compressors out of their efficency range the air temps should remain relitavely sane. Only time will dell i guess.

Yes thats definatly part of the reason for sure. Engines setup for 92 octane. Yes it will be 98 octane on the street and should make around 300rwhp on 12-14lb, street tune. For the high boost tunes it will be Sunoco Fuel of some sort. I havent checked on whats going to be easily available in my area though. Generally the highest compressions being run by the medium hp engines (300-350hp) of this type is around 8:1. If you want to push higher power than that the compression always comes down. Unless your running methanol that is. The methanol forced induction guys are running around 10:1 from what i've read. With the CR at 6.7:1 - 6.9:1 I should still be able to run 30-32 degrees of ignition on 1 bar of boost. With that boost and CR it will be running simular to a 5lt engine at 12:1 cr. Just been looking at the compressor maps and trims between the GT25 and GT28 ranges on the turbobygarrett website. I guess i'll just have to try what i have, see how it performs, and then decide where to go from there. djr81, about the temps side of things. Porsche took that approach with the early 911 turbo's. Laggy turbo response also meant less heat as they didnt start intercooling till the mid 80's. I shouldnt have to worry about that as much as they did. The engines cooling system should be pretty sound. I realise that its exhaust gas expanding from a high pressure area to a low pressure area accross the turbine side of the turbo, but there is more science to it than that. What i was really after was some sort of technical answer on what would make a turbo spin up faster. Assuming an RB26 has 1.3lt/3 exhaust pulse events feeding its turbine, will it spool faster than or slower than a 1.3lt/2 or 1.3lt/1? Thanks for the feedback so far everyone... i realise talking vw's on a skyline forum is walking a fine line to being flamed...

The compresion is that low to allow up to 2 bar to be run more easily. Factory compresion on these engines is around 7:1. The lower compression helps keep head temps down as they are air cooled. I know that compression is a factor for maintaining off boost response and torque/hp etc, but i am more concerned about when full boost will be achieved. The deck height of the engine will be 0.045" or 0.065". The pistons have 38cc dishes to lower the compression. My last 2332cc turbo motor ran 7.4:1 with a GT28R. It made 10lb by 2100 rpm. But the driving response was easily twice that of a stock engine due to the increase in engine capacity. That engine wouldnt rev past 5500 rpm though due to the cam and turbine being too small. The car weighs around 830kg so the rate of acceleration off boost is still very quick. The engine block is from a 2.1 water boxer vw but the water cooling jackets are machined off the block and its converted to air cooled using custom components. They call this an oxyboxer engine. Its a flat horizontally opposed 4 cylinder engine. Cheers, Ian

Hi all, So im not just interested in skylines. I am also in the process of building a new race engine for my other car, the vw pictured below. The engine is entirely custom. Displacement is 2443cc (88mm crank, 94mm bore). Compression is 6.7 or 6.9:1 depending on what head gasket i choose. Cam is 278 degrees @.050", 112 lobe seperation. Everything in the engine will allow it to rev to around 8000-8500 rpm. The turbo setup i had chosen and already purchased was originally intended for a smaller engine (2332cc). I have a pair of garrett GT2554R's, rated at 260hp each. I would like to see about 500rwhp on a max boost tune. The engine is intercooled and injected as well. The heads are cnc ported and are huge. 48mm intake and 40mm exhaust valves. They flow 240cfm at 25". Now here's the question. Based on what everyone knows about the Garrett GT2860-5/7/10's and HKS turbo's and how they perform on a RB26 is it possible to take a guess as to how quickly these turbo's designed for the GTR would work on this engine? Would response be better as the exhaust gas pulses per cylinder are 177cc larger per cylinder than the GTR, but there is one less pulse as 2 cylinders feed each turbo and not 3? Ive seen that its possible to get 500rwhp from a pair of HKS 2530's provided supporting mods are there. I am considering upgrading to these turbo's for the project or even larger provided response will be reasonable still. Cheers, Ian

They fit a RB25DE head too. Good for a 25/30 build

Hi everyone, I've had my GTR for a year now but i need garage space and another $30K to help me into my next project car. I wouldnt be selling it if I could put 3 cars under the house. The car is not 100% perfect which you would say for any 10 year old car, but its exceptional for its age. The underside of the car is perfectly clean and as you can see from the pics the outside of the car is very good as well. I've had the car up on a hoist and had the entire undercarridge checked, suspension etc and nothing is worn at all. This was done recently when I fitted a Sydney Kid tuned bilsten kit. The car is tuned to about 260kw on max boost which i've only driven the car on once. I drive the car daily on 0.8bar max. In the past year i've put 5000K on the clock. The car has never missed a beat. When i have changed anything on the car I have used only top shelf parts. Thats redline fluids, the ARC air box, hioctane catch can and the PWR radiator. These were only replaced to upgrade from things that were showing signs of wear. The water pump, timing belt and adjustable gears were installed when i purchard the car at 55,000k's as a precaution. It was my intention to add some GTSS's and HKS dumps and tune it to about 280kw and keep it as a fun daily driver. But above all I wanted to keep that drivability and reliability. When i purchased the car there was some signs of neglect in some areas from the previous owner which I have been gradually fixing over time. Nothing serious, just cosmetic stuff. So Ive purchased new front under-trays, re-wired the stereo properly etc, new engine bay bonnet sound deadening pad etc. I had a clutch booster fail as well, so that was replaced with a new one and i had the clutch MC re-sleaved with a stainless sleve. The series 3 front lip is scratched and the paint is coming off, so i am having that touched up over the next few weeks. Make: Nissan Model: Skyline R33 GTR VSPEC Milage:60,000 Transmission: 5 speed manual/AWD Colour:White Location: Cairns, QLD Complied? YES RWC supplied? YES Currently registered? YES Price:32,000 NEG (I will consider removing some parts to lower the price, call if your interested) Contact: Ian 0434 147 478 Comments / Modifications: Specs of the car as it drives today are: Engine ARC Super Cold air induction box Hi Octane custom baffeled breather box/washer bottle tank HKS 100mm Intercooler Gates radiator hoses Gates timing belt N1 water pump Nismo front pipe HKS 100mm exhaust Greddy adjustable intake and exhaust cam gears PWR Radiator The engine compression tested 185PSI on all cylinders. I am happy to perform a compression test in front of any perspective buyer. The engine is near new condition. Electronics Apexi Power FC Apexi AVCR Apexi Turbo timer Nismo 320Km/h Speedo and 11,000 RPM tacho Carbon fiber dash inserts The rest Sydney kid tune Bilstein suspension package ( with <500Ks on it ) C's Short shifter BBS 17x9" rims Bridgestone Potenza SO3's 255x40x17's all round about 80% tread remaining Endless brake pads Motul brake fluid R34 GTR Seats Alpine LCD in dash head unit, Alpine Amp and all Alpine Type R Speakers and crossovers Series 3 front Lip Nismo indercators Series 3 Xeoon lights with HID upgraded high-beam lights Tinted windows Custom stripes on the bonnnet. All Redline Synthetic fluids and oils. Next engine oil change due in 200k's Images: Cheers, Ian.

Item: R33/R34 GTR and R34TT Bilstein suspension Age: 2 yrs approx Condition: Good Price: $500 To Fit: R33/R34 GTR and R34TT (What car) Location: Cairns Contact: Ian 0434 147 478 Comments: I've recently installed a $1500 SydneyKid customised bilstein suspension package in my R33 GTR and this is the suspension that has come out of the car. The valving is considerably firmer than SK's setup, and the spring rates are 4.25kg front and 3.75kg rear's. The car handled great and cornered very well on a smooth surface (with standard vspec sway bars), but Cairns roads are absolutely screwed and I spend most of my time driving in rough industrial area's. On better roads or the track they would be very nice to use. Ride height is adjustable via machined rings on the shocks and adjusting the spring support position. They are set at 355mm to the edge of the guard to the center of the wheel at the moment, same as SK's setup. I did ask SK about getting them re-valved and it can be done for $500 approx, if you buy these its a cheap way for someone to get yourself a SK tuned setup for about $1000. Will not negotiate on the price and buyer pays for freight.. it is not included in that price. If you cant afford it please dont waste my time. I will consider swapping for other parts however and cash either way depending on whats involved. Here is my wish list: Apexi Power FC Commander hand controller... (not sure what version though, as every one i've tried hasnt worked so far and none had an identifying sticker on them) Nismo LMGT3 18x10's in +20 GTR offset, white centers. Series 3 R33 GTR front lip R33 GTR, Drivers side door trim, must be perfect condition HKS RB26 dump pipes HKS GTSS's And... any other go fast parts to suit an RB26 that might peak my interest.. Titanium exhaust perhaps... Pictures of the shocks and the ride height of my car with them installed are below. Lowest point was 110mm at the middle of the series 3 front lip. Cheers, Ian

You cant beat the clutch fan for reliability and consistent engine temps. After the post in this thread done a long while back I tried diferent variations of an electric thermo, and none manage to keep the engine temp below 95 when stuck in 40k traffic with the air conditioning on. Turn the air con off, and it was able to drop the temps to about 85 or so, still too hot considering your just idling along practically. Got a clutch fan from an R33 gtr and regardless if whether the aircon was on or off, and how the car was being driven it would rarely get above 81 degrees on the hottest of days. The only time a fan isnt needed is when your car is above 80k's, at which time the air temps from the back of the radiator are cool enough to allow the clutch fan to free spin. So its not robbing power or reducing engine response.

Sorry to hear thats happened, but im glad to have read about it before I did the same upgrade. I guess thats part of why HKS turbo's are more expensive... They really are bolt on.

Hi Matt, I received the rear camber correction off-set bushes yesterday. I have a question regarding installation. Should I put the offset towards the top or the bottom of the pivot point. I may be over thinking this, but wouldnt this affect the rate of camber gain through the range of suspension travel? As in if the excentric is high there will be less camber gain that if it is low? Cheers, Ian

Good luck!

I didnt have any luck with the PDF... it just sat there saying buffering for 10 minutes and displayed some crap in japanese... I should be more clear with what ive said, so... asuming your talking about bolt thread diameter and not the size socket used for tightening it up... general standards for torque on bolts are: 6mm - 6-ft-lb if using normal grade 8.8 high tensile bolts. 8mm - 14ft-lb if using normal grade 8.8 high tensile bolts. If using ARP/Raceware fasteners or grade 12 bolts you could go to 18ft-lb. 10mm - 25ft-lb if normal grade 8.8 high tensile bolts. ARP/Raceware will handle 28ft-lb. Its safer to be under the torque spec than over it. Bolts are designed to stretch as things expand when they get hot. If you have tightened it too much and the bolt doesnt have any stretch left it will break. In the case of the flywheel bolts, the stresses they are under are mainly thermal expansion of the pressure plate hat. Your flywheel bolts sound right at the 108ft-lb. Though to be sure you can check that spec in any skyline or holden vl RB30 service manual as it will be the same regardless of the clutch your using.

Nismo twin plate coppermix. I ran the old version of this in my GTS4 as a daily driver. Its streetable enough to drive in traffic with your mum in the car and she won't complain about your driving... if that makes sense. I guess I mean they are very smooth, and easily comparable to a stock pedal pressure. Compare to a mates 500hp single plate, my nismo gmax twin plate was a dream to drive. As for handling power, well 4500 rpm launches at 20lb boost with antilag, spinning all 4 wheels through 1st gear and breaking 2nd loose as well with around 375awhp. It took that kind of abuse easily.

10mm high tensile bolts, 25ft-lb, 28ft-lb max. Use some medium strength loctite on the thread and you'll be fine. The outer bolts dont carry the power your engine is making, they only need to handle the pressure of the pressure plate itself.

And for good reason. The speedflow rubber/stainless steel re-enforced braided hose detoriates with the heat. It will last a little while but in time the rubber hardens then it will begin to sweat coolant and finally leak. The factory ones are far more reliable than any custom or after-market plumbing. Teflon braided is the only alternative that will handle the heat.

You have a PM Matt, Please get back to me. Regards, Ian

I spoke with my engineer again today and he is going to try call Brisbane head office for QLD transport again soon about this and other rule changes. But aparently for the moment they may still be legal. The problem has come about due to some new idea about standardising all the laws and regulations accross all states. WA and SA will be really pissed off no doubt, as their rules are the most relaxed in australia. I think an un-armed NOS system can be installed in street cars out there, where as in QLD if they find a solenoid or nosel your screwed. Does anyone else know anything about whats happening?

Hi all, I have heard that a new rulling has been passed that may well make roll cages illegal in street registered vehicles. The guy that told me this is an engineer that actually does the approvals so its not bullshit. He needed to read some new paperwork aparently and I havent checked back with him yet. The law MAY even be back dated so cars that have approved cages may have problems. Does anyone know anything about this? The only way around this may be to get the vehicle approved under Individually Constructed Vehicle rules or hotrod rules. I really hope this isnt the case because it certainly isnt going to keep very fast modified cars off the street, its just going to make the very fast modified street cars more unsafe. Cheers, Ian

I have no idea what the power output is. Its never been on a dyno. If the Nismo dashes not accurate, factor that in. I do have an AVCR but didnt do a recall on the max values. I agree there, they certinly arent built to carry passengers.

Nope. Exhaust, ARC intake, power fc, 11lb boost, hks intercooler, and an engine thats in very good condition.

Chalk and cheese. The GTR is more suited to track, highway crusing and going fast. A light tune will see a GTR doing easily 270km/h. Try that in an evo. The Evo on the other hand is smaller, lighter, more nimble and designed for rally. I think more suited to driving around a busy city like a maniac than the GTR, as you have to rev the GTR to get it really going. Having said that, i love my R33. Its a daily driver / company car. Runs great, super reliable and bullet proof. Though that last part probably comes down to maintenance habbits. If you had a choice go both. But frankly you cant drive like an idiot in traffic all the time. Most of the time your crusing stuck behind a camry or a magna so you might as well have space to spread out and relax.