GTRNUR

Hi Gary, Im after a set of shocks and springs and rear castor bushes for my R33 GTR. I've sent you a PM with the details. CHeers, Ian

Dam double post!!

Im pretty much sold on SS's and perhaps some Jun 260 or poncams. I found a dyno sheet that showed full boost of 15psi by about 105km/h in 4th, so thats pretty good. I doubt I want to run more than 1 bar anyway, I just want a tiny bit more without worrying about that ceramic wheels issue. Thanks for the input everyone.

Yeah I saw the 2.8 kit that someone has for sale in the parts section too, but thats a can of worms I dont want to open.... just yet. Was the HKS 2510 supposed to be a simular replacement to the stock turbo but plain bearing, that was then superseeded by the GTSS? The best price ive found so far on a new GTSS kit is $2700. Is it worth replacing the manifolds at the same time, or only if your going to match port to the head, and turbine housing..? Every thread on front end exhaust ive read says get rid of the stock dump pipes ASAP, but not much of a mention is made of the primary manifolds.

So turbo's need to be first on the list. After that how about exhaust system changes and cams or anything else to improve response?

Believe me I have spent hours using search and browsing the dyno thread but its hard to gauge whats really what when the responsiveness I am after is more of a perception thing. Everyone talks about the power for sure but thats not what I am after. I dont want a mega powerful GTR and most of the GTSS thread talk about power ranging from 280-400kw (race fuel) but ive seen few actually talk about at what rpm a certain boost level is achieved, expecially in the lower gears where it counts. I want one that pulls like a train midrange, and makes boost just off idle. I'd be happy if it had the power level it already has, and just widened the power band a lot more. Of course a little more power would be great too. The current tune doesnt really get up and go till around 5000 rpm or so. Lowering that 1k RPM would be a great start. Maybe something from the trust catalogue might prove more responsive but I have no idea about that stuff.

Hi everyone, Well my Vspec R33 GTR has been a lot of fun in its current tune but I am after a little more power and as much response as is possible. The car is a daily driver for the most part so I dont want to loose that smooth drivability of a fairly stock system, and would like to really keep the response of the engine as close to stock or even improve on it if thats possible. I am thinking of getting a pair of GTSS's but I have found little comparing the drivability of these with stock turbo's with regards to response and development of torque in the 3000-6000 rpm range. For the most part I never rev the engine past 7000. I figure i'd also add HKS dumps to the shopping list along with some ported stock manifolds or agian hks or tomei manifolds. Also with regards to chamshaft timing, where is the direction to go in if chasing more response and low to mid range torque torque? Im adding a PWR 40mm radiator this week as the current one is beginning to look a little sad. The car compression tested at 185 on all cylidners so i know everything is in top shape. Ive put about 8000k's on the car since getting it and spare no expense with regards to maintenance and upkeep. Here is the current mod list: ARC Super Cold air induction box Hi Octane custom baffeled breather box/washer bottle tank HKS 100mm Intercooler Gates radiator hoses Gates timing belt N1 water pump Nismo front pipe HKS 100mm exhaust Greddy adjustable intake and exhaust cam gears Apexi Power FC tuned to 1 bar by some tuner on the gold coast, but i have it dialed back to 10lb for reliability. Apexi AVCR All Redline Synthetic fluids and oils. Ive had the big single lag monster skyline prior to this one and frankly power is over-rated. I do miss the nimbleness of the R32 though, and am hoping that with the right mods will gain some of that back for the R33. Any suggestions?

Just so I am clear on how to do my setup then... With street tyres (SO3's) Fronts will be 2.5 degrees camber, 7 degress caster, 0 toe. Rears will be 1 degree camber, 2mm toe With semi slicks (RE55's) Fronts will be 3-3.5 camber, 7-8 caster and 0 toe Rears will be 1.5 camber and 2mm toe Does an a GTR need different rear camber settings to a 2wd skyline? I figure with a GTR on a tight track your not necessarily wanting a lot of camber to gain more rear end traction. If you can get the back to come around a little and steer with the throttle using power oversteer. Any thoughts?

Pods Sold

Shifter Sold. Pods still available

Bump! Price dropped on the pods and added a short shifter.

Sorry but everything is sold. Cheers, Ian

Sure do. What you get is whats in the pics. I dont have the little steel brackets that are used to hold the pods from moving around though, so you'd have to make something up yourself. Cheers, Ian.

Item: Twin HKS Pod filters and pipe kit Age: 1 year at least, but cant be sure exactly Condition: Good Price: SOLD To Fit: RB26DETT R32/33/34 GTR with standard or Nismo AFM's (What car) Item: Short Shifter Age: 1 year approx, but cant be sure exactly Condition: Good Price: SOLD To Fit: R32/33/34 GTR, or R33 GTST, S13/S14/S15 etc if you change the nylon swivel on the bottom of the shifter with the one from your stock shifter Location: Cairns, QLD 4870 Contact: 0434 147 478 Comments: I have a pair of HKS Pods for sale that are in good condition. Removed from the car as i upgraded to a ARC airbox. These increase your induction noise considerably, to the point where your BOV will sound like its venting to atmosphere. Condition is good, but you will want to wash them before putting them on a car. The short shifter is of unknown brand. I reaplaced it with a C's shifter in my car as I drive it every day, and the very close ratio of this short shifter made driving in traffic a bitch. It was great if you were driving hard though. The ratio is about 1/2 that of a C's short shifter, VERY CLOSE. PM or call me if your interested. Cheers, Ian

The VL turbo wont be roller bearing, nor will it be of comparable design as far as aerodynamics go. The trims are probably diferent on the housings and wheels too. The turbo you have should last provided you dont have a crap boost controller that causes a boost spike to go over the 12psi. Around 14 is the absolute limit and above that your in the destruction zone.

ALL SOLD!

Found it! Started the car and felt around for something making a vacuum. I found a piece of rubber over the end of the hose fitting on the plenum. It that had broken off the main hose that connects to the map sensor. This explains the occasional fuel smell i'd been noticing too, as well as the rich as hell when on boost, as the AFM's sensing more airflow, but it was leaking it out the hole in the intake. Should be interesting to see how much response I get back. Thanks WRXHOON!

Found the map sensor, and also found the hose that was connected to it that had been left dangling into the abyss under the plenum, not connected to anything. Where is this connection on the rear of the plenum? Do you mean between the firewall and the plenum directly? Cheers, Ian

Hi all, The factory boost gauge on my R33 GTR isnt working. Actually its never worked since i bought the car. Where is the sender located for this gauge? I suspect its been unplugged with the AVCR was installed... Cheers, Ian

Likely... I just tried an FCC3 controller from an RB25DET Power FC and that didnt work... It just locked up at the apexi screen. Didnt even report a version number. I guess I have an old one too. There was no mention of R33 GTR on it anywhere, althogh one of the stickers was 1/2 damaged so it wasnt readable.

Ok, so my PFC's numbers are: PFC RB26 9801 - 0021 Is there another number I should be looking for to ID the model number? If it is the correct one for mine i'll take it.

You have a PM.

These are a great unit. Used one for over 2 years swapping between 2 cars. Good question about linking the AFR signals though... Does the GTR ECU tune the front 3 cylinders seperate from the rear 3 cylinders when running in closed loop?

How about that boot lock? It never arrived so i guess you didnt send it?

I just remembered one other thing that can cause these issues. I had a hole in the factory side mounted intercooler that caused an un-even idle, poor boost control, and miss firing when on boost due to over fueling. Lots of black exhaust smoke as well due to excessive fuel. Seems a stone had flicked up from the front wheel and had damaged the back of the intercooler core through the inner guard shield.