GTRNUR

A dirty AFM will cause a lean condition which can cause backfires and power loss under boost. Check all your hose clamps before you do anything else.

And I forgot one other thing... Loose hose clamps. You might have a hose clamp loose, so its sucking a heap of air through the turbo and blowing it all out an air leak, and at the same time overfueling the hell out of the engine. Every hose clamp from the throttle body, thru the intercooler to the turbo compressor housing must be checked. I'd be putting this at the top of the list to do before the compression test. Cheers Ian

you need to do the list... 1. Compression test. 2. Test each coil pack.... use an old plug and start the car running on 5 coil packs with the 6th hanging free with an old plug in it. Disconnect the associated injector plug for that coil pack when your doing this. Earth each plug on the engine where there is clean metal (not paint). AS the car idles look for an even spark. 3. Are the plugs new? BCPR6ES at 0.7mm plug gaps 4. Clean maf sensor using CO spray 5. If all else fails, pull the injectors and get them cleaned. Replace the fuel filter too. Good luck.

Yes RB20 and RB26 coils are the same. If its arcing outside the coil its definatly not arcing across the electrode. Also once its arced through the insulation once it leaves a carbon track through the insulation, so it will continue to arc through that area the insulation has broken down. Its not repairable, only replacing the coils will solve that problem. Cheers, Ian

I replaced all my coil packs when I had a simular issue on the old r32. Turned out engine heat was causing the ignitor to misfire the coils. The ignitor was actually fine, as was the coil packs. The clutch in the thermo fan was stuffed though and that was causing the engine to run about 10-15 degrees hotter than it should, over boil occasionally when shut down, and also have a miss-fire issue very simular to yours. Make sure your plug gaps are at 0.7mm too. Too large a gap will cause hesitation and missing as boost pressure/cylinder pressure rises. if its any help I think i've got the old coil packs around here somewhere if you want them? $20... for the lot if i can find them . Make it worth my while do go digging in my garage...

Hi All, Im trying to track down some replacement air cleaner panels for my R33 GTR ARC super cold air intake box. Does anyone else out there in GTR land run one of these air boxes and happen to know what size or part number replacement filter is required for it? Cheers, Ian

I have the standard intake plenum yes. The greddy one I had is long gone. What is it worth? $100? Mail to NSW will be about $35 if you want only the lower part of the plenum. If you want the top part as well that will probably be about $45ish. Cheers Ian

Sold to ME!

I'll take it if Gagz hasnt already. Cheers, Ian

I'd take $700 for the head with valves, valve springs and retainers. (Im not going to take it apart!).

Im in Cairns, and can freight anywhere.. I have an account with TNT so i get good rates.

$1000 for the machined RB25DET series 2 head with cams + lifters, cam gears, tinware, CAS sensor, manifold, rocker covers, seals etc. Coil packs are extra $$Offers Fuel rail and injectors are also available for more $$$offers A few pictures... I can have the head assembled so its ready to bolt on, and am considering doing this and putting it back on the RB25DET block it came off, and selling it as a freshened up engine. Cheers, Ian

ARP Head Studs - Sold Greddy RB26 Oil pump - Sold Tomei RB25DET Head Gasket - Sold Fuel pressure reg - sold Cusco brake stopper - sold Greddy plenum - sold Billet fuel rail - sold Head still for sale... Make a reasonable offer....

Every see the vehicular lunatics DVD, and that mental chick go off her dial when they give her shit about her wing!

I need the front inner guards and under tray that goes from the front bar back to the cross member. Do you have these?

Ok, they are very tempting now. If they are not gone by mid next week i'll take them. I've just got to wait for a few invoices to be paid by my customers. Cheers. Ian

Im interested. How many k's on the turbo's? Can you post up a picture of the odometer? Cheers, Ian

Im still going to re-search how some people have replaced the MAF sensor with a MAP on their standard ECU's. There has got to be a way to make it work with a reasonable result. Also, the load band calibrations for the FC Datalogit on page 3 of the configuration allows you to define the load points for each voltage reference. I dont see why you cant use 5 or 6 of these load bands for light load tuning, and then use the remaining two points for high load. The ecu aproximates the values inbetween based on averages of the values set in the map. I recall seeing one version of Autronic ecu that had only two load bands for on boost tuning, yet you could calibrate it for any map sensor. I suspect i'll probably end up selling my FC and getting an autronic or wolf 5 plugin tho... we'll see...

Yeah good points... The autronic, wolf and haltech ecu's all use a TPS to map change over point that allows TPS + RPM for lower load tuning and then it switches to map after. I'd have to develop a circuit that could do the same thing i guess. Its possible, but it would be a little clunky as you'd have to adjust a variable resistor to set the change-over point... All of the sudden its gotten too complicated. ah well..

Hi All, I was thinking about MAF vs Map. You see all my tuning knowledge is with MAP based ECU's. I want to re-tune my GTR which has a power fc with MAF sensors so i need to re-learn how to tune the car based on MAF. One of the the firsts thing that everyone usually does is turf the standard MAF sensors and upgrade to nismo or Z32 sensors. They then go about cutting and re-soldering the Z32 plugs on their GTR loom. Its simple and involves connecting the +12V, 0-5v signal and signal ground correctly. The reason we all know is to maintain a tunable resolution when airflow is substantially increased when boost is turned up. Im told you can tune beyond the max limits of the sensors when the sensors are no longer able to provide tunable sensor information, but your limit is that your stuck with one boost level to maintain the correct AFR's. Thats all provided you have a fuel system to support what your doing. No boost cut/MAF sensor limit cut applies with the FC tune. Downside is that if you change that boost level your tune goes out the window. Now it occurred to me that it would be possible to very easily connect an after market external MAP sensor to the ECU and achieve a tunable result. The ECU doesnt need to know that its dealing with manifold pressure. All it needs to do is provide fuel and spark, and sense varying loads. So, here's my idea. Purchase a Haltech 3 bar map sensor. Then get a 7805 voltage regulator, and a couple of small capacitors to make a small 5V regulated power supply. Connect the output of the supply to the map sensor, and have the sensor output go to the signal input for what was the MAF sensor inputs. This basic design wouldnt have a full vacuum or max pressure calibration, but if it works it would be easily possible to modify the power supply circuit to make that adjustable. If it works I could fine tune the design later. Also, the FC Datalogit software allows the ECU to make fuel corrections based on intake air temps with the GTR, so it really has potential to become a decent upgrade. Why would you do this? Im thinking because its cheap for starters, allows tunability to any boost level so long as you have the sensor for the job. Allows you to ditch the MAF sensors, or keep the stock ones in place to retain that stock appearance. This modification is so simple to implement that you could literally have a bypass switch to switch between MAF or MAP load sensing, and then just change the ecu maps and your off and running. Anyone have any thoughts? Cheers, Ian

Sorry to disagree but that doesnt sound right. 0.001- 0.0015" is the clearance for aluminium piston in an aluminium cylinder, like on a porsche 911. The idea of close tolerances in those engines is that the cylinder grows at the same rates as the piston as things heat up. Porsche dont use a cast iron sleave, they have a machinable coating on the alloy called nickasel. Enough porsche stuff... On to cast iron blocks. Cast iron doesnt expand as fast as the alloy does. This is why the wall thickness needs to be larger, or the engine will get too tight as it heats up. Another factor of consideration is that the RB30 block doesnt have piston squirters, which means the pistons run considerably higher crown temps than a normal forced induction RB20/25/26det(t) engine. This again means more piston growth. CP uses 2618 alloy for their forged pistons, so when they heat up they grow more than hypereutectic cast as well as they get hotter because of lower silicon content. If it were a NA engine 0.0015" would be ok, but tight. For forced induction and no piston squirters im 99% sure its 0.0025" because of the application being for forced induction and using a forged piston. You could even go as loose as 0.003" but unless your circuit racing the engine and are after all out response its probably too loose and will cause a fair amount of noise when its warming up, as well as wear out the pistons prematurely.

I guess you didnt get around to sending that boot lock COD then hey...? Or is it lost somewhere at australia post? Cheers, Ian

Definatly go the JUN/HKS or Tomei pump depending on your available dollars. Ive heard rumour that the new N1 pumps are failing due to problems with the quality of the metal in the pump rotor. With the gtr crank make sure it has the oil pump drive extension fitted if its an R32 GTR crank. Especially considering how your circuit race it. Last of all if you can afford to, put in a set of H-beams. Cheap insurance. Same oil pump mods should be done if your going down the RB30DET path and still will race the car as well. Sump baffel definatly or oil surging can still cause bearing failure like you already have. The other possability is a sump extension to add a few more litres of oil to the sump. Extra oil in the oil lines from the cooler and remote filter doesnt help if the pickup is sucking air. Have fun with it!

Im after a boot lock assembly with the spring loaded keyhole cover. Do you have it and how much? Cheers, Ian

Im after the boot lock assembly because the spring loaded flap has been broken off mine. is $30 fair? Cheers, Ian