GTRNUR

Im after the boot lock assembly because the spring loaded flap has been broken off mine. is $30 fair? Cheers, Ian

Head Gasket sold. Machined and ready to fit RB25DET series 2 head with all the internal bits is still available. Surely someone needs a good head!

For those that have asked about the injectors, I figure $250 for all 6 in the standard rail will be fair. Problem is that I've loaned the set to someone that has a shagged injector so they can still drive their car. I hope to be getting it back soon. CHeers, Ian

yes its new and in the original packaging.

$200 for the rocker covers including postage... I know thats not cheap, but as it is i've got a bunch of parts here that I cant move. I'd accept $750 for all the head gear (minus the head gasket). If i start breaking up the parts i know i'll be left with a stack of things that wont sell.

ALL SOLD

Yes true, but 30kw is hardly worth mentioning for somethign like a pump. Its usually the first thing changed too, then a fuel pressure regulator to crank every last bit out of your stock injectors. Thinks like rod bolts let go at rpms as well, due to age and metal fatigue. Its hard to really see what happened when your looking at the aftermath of a rod failure too. A LOT of failures happen due to missed shifts, or are due to bad tune. Its a lot easier to be sure of the limits of sensors to the point where the ability to tune properly is no-longer possible, vs the point at which a rod turns into a banana because you used too much boost... Can you tell i'm a high octane fan!!!? Cheers, Ian

I am curious to know what the reliable and possible limits are for the components that make up our skylines. I've been through the dyno thread to see what people have done, but that and whats reliable are two diferent things. Eg... I have an R33 GTR vspec, so based on the components of a standard car what are the limits of that parts that we all change when tuning for max power. 440cc Injectors - xxxHP Standard GTR AFM's - xxxHP R33 Fuel pump - xxxHP Standard Rods - xxxHP Standard Crank - xxxHP Standard pistons - xxxHP Standard block - xxxHP Oil pump limits - xxxHP Standard R33 Cams - xxxHP Anyone care to jump in here...? Cheers, Ian

Interesting thread. My experiences with nismo 550's on a sr20 was that they lost the ability to deliver fuel properly below 1.45-1.55ms. That was firing the injectors sequentially on low impedance injector drivers. So I am guessing the 0.71ms latency means time for the injector to change from closed to completely open... and not back to closed again. I've read that some sard regulators are stable down to 1.1ms with stable fuel delivery, so the latency has got to be close on 0.45-0.5. Cheers, Ian

Ok that makes sense. My GTR doesnt have a rear window wiper or washer, so i guess I can use it for intercooler water spray then. Cheers, Ian

Hi All, When I bought my car it didnt have a washer bottle on it, so ive got my self a nice hi-octane washer breather tank now and will fit it this weekend. FIrst thing i noticed is that it has two holes in it for pumps, or water feeds.. :S Is this for two pumps, or one pump and one water level sensor?.. Or is it a hi-octane thing and they add room for you to have a second pump for intercooler water spray? Cheers, Ian

Its like a brake booster but smaller. Assists the operation of the clutch and is used on GTR's as they generally have high pressure clutch systems.

No i didn't have them check up on that. It might be from an R32 GTR, a patrol, or a 300zx. When I started researching the part these were the other nissans that I found also used boosters. I'm just glad I didnt have to give nissan another donation. This allows me to do the complete redline fluid change on the GTR without denting the bank balance quite so much. Cheers, Ian

I agree. Put the price backup and advertise it on carpoint. A mate went through the same drama selling a 515rwhp supra. Kept dropping the price and was getting stupid offers from dreamers only. Once the price was back up, he got a lot more enquiries, and sold the car 2 weeks later.

Will R33 GTR suspenson fit an R34 GTR?... CHeers, Ian

Hi All, Well my clutch booster was leaking, causing the old un-even idle issue etc so i needed to replace it. Contacted Nissan and the genuine R33 GTR Clutch booster cost around the $600 mark. I found out that Repco are able to source an identical Nissan genuine part for $215 delivered. Both the faulty factory booster and the one repco supplied are identical but the part numbers are different. The new Repco supplied part number is 300630-05U01. Repco's internal part number for the part is the same as this without the "-". Cheers, Ian

Yeah your right. The lip is series 3 though which is what I meant. My all this series stuff is so confusing. The car is a series 1.5 1996 vspec gtr.

I'd go with a lightly modded GTR any time. The moment turbo's are changed and boost has been raised you have no real idea of the EXACT condition of thing. A compression test will tell you so much, but once a car has been boosted there is a lot of other things that can go wrong. Eg, suppose the tuner stuffs up. detonation leads to ring land damage, which may not become evident till a month or 2 later. The other thing is that once a cars performance level has been increase, you know its been driven at its limit at that performance level as well. I'm not saying GTR are fragile, but they are a lot stronger and last a lot longer when left un-molestered. That applies to the engine, but also the entire driveline, chassis, brakes, the works. My car is nearly identical in apearance to yous too, except the mags and that I have a series 3 front bar. I prefer to have a car thats solid and reliable than one that looks pretty (or tough) and goes faster than stock. GTR's are handling cars anyway. Power is over rated, I prefer response and corners any day of the week. Cheers, Ian.

Very tidy looking car. Dont worry about the plate with the new vin number stampted on it (the one on the strut tower). Its how the car was complianced. Mine was done the same. Other things to check for though with R33's if your going to get the opportunity to go over the car and haggle the price a little. Look for rust and bulging in the floor pan and seams. Are the front inner guards missing? How about the under trays, are they gone too? Obviously compression test it, check its running standard boost if the turbos are stock which they probably are. Check the CV boots are all ok. I had to replace one up front, which means diff oil, drive shafts out and a few dollars. Check all the polution control gear is still there. Eg, Cat in the exhaust, charchoal canister is connected etc. If its been disconnected its a sign that some amater was messing with the car. I think there is a complete checklist on the site here somewhere but im not having any luck with the search engine. YOu cah do a REVS check on the VIN number as well. Do the high level one and it tells you the complete registration history of your car. Lets you know if the engine has ever been changed etc. Cheers, Ian

Dam, so the higher cylinder pressure really isnt indicating anything.... I suppose knowing what cams are in it as well would also help work things out, cause overlap will effect dynamic compression and cylinder pressures. I'm taking the timing covers off tomorrow to check the condition of the belt and maybe see what kind of cams are in there. Cheers, Ian

About Time! Hope you've got the cash in your pocket!

Hi all, Just did an oil change, pulled the plugs and did a compression test on my newly aquired R33 GTR vspec. I am very happy with the results. All cylinders came in around the 180-185psi mark. I've done a background check on the car and discovered that the engine is not the original one that was installed in the car. THe engine runs very strongly, and has great off boost torque. Cruises comefortably under 2000 rpm in 5th gear at 60k. Great boost response too making noticable boost at 2000 rpm in the taller gears. It is possible that my compression test gauge is a little off, but I am wondering what the effect on compression is when running 0.020" and 0.040" oversized pistons are on compression tests. Ive used this same gauge on an RB20DET and it measured 150-155psi, which sounds right for an RB20 so the gauge cant be that far out. Thoughts anyone? Cheers, Ian

I've got HA's on my 33 GTR and yes they are too hard because of the spring rates, but cornering and precision in handling are awesome. Once the tyres are up to temp I can easily get more G's in cornering than I can in acceleration, and thats a huge buzz. I love it! Still, i'm changing to bilstein shocks and softer springs soon as the car is my daily driver as well and the roads in cairns are way too bumpy. I've got easily 110mm of ride height and there is room to adjust higher if I want too.

Hi SK. These are the coils i'm considering for my R33 GTR. Fronts Coil ID = 97/70 mm Wire OD = 12.7 mm # of Coils = 8.5 turns Rears Coil ID = 103/91 mm Wire OD = 12.7 mm # of Coils = 7.5 turns Bilsteins coils. Can you give me the rate in KG too please.

Hi all, I'm notice a fuel smell under hard acceleration and occasionally cornering (though thats generally all done at the same time)... I've noticed the hose that links from the tank vent to the charcoal canister is missing, so i figure it could be from here that i'm smelling the fuel. Does anyone know where the hose from the canister actually goes too? Is the pipe that goes to the tank vent underneith the MAF sensors and all that intake plumbing down on the chassis rail like on R32 models? Its an R33 Vpsec GTR... Cheers, Ian