GTRNUR

Awakening a dead thread... Got this problem with my R33 clutch booster as well. THe booster is located in the engine bay inbetween the firewall and clutch MC. There is long term repercussions for not fixiing it. The nylon bushing in the clutch pedal will crush and wear out, then the pin will run directly on the pedal and wear the bushing hole and damage the pin. I fixed my bushing issue by machining a brass one up, then found this thread which explains why its happened in the first place! Cheers, Ian

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Well the 32 didn't byt maybe the 33 does... I'll check it out tomorrow. THanks for the idea. Cheers, Ian

Bump!

At last! Someone that got it right! If you bleed the slave cylidner you can put 50 litres of fluid through there and it will still not clear the air if there is a bubble at the master cylinder. You should be able to clear the air by just 3 pumps for the master and 3 at the slave. 1. Fill the resivour, and pull the pedal up from the floor. 2. attach a hose the the nipple at the master cylinder, loosen the bleed valve and have someone slowly push the pedal to the floor with their HAND, so the motion is slow. Tighten the nipple, and repeat from 1 another 2 times. 3. Do the same but for the slave end, again 3 times. Pumping the pedal fast will not help you purge the air properly, nor will litres of fluid. Do it right and provided you have the correct throw out for the clutch installed and it worked properly before as Manwhore suggested well you should be operational.

It depends entirely on how the test was done. If it was done cold and dry as most people do them so they don't burn themselves, well the results are fine. Keep in mind that an alloy piston grows in size when it heats up more than the engine block does, so ring seal and piston/bore seal improves with engine temp. If these are the results of a wet test (tablespoon of oil in the cylinder to aid ring seal), then this might indicate an issue. In the scheme of things 10psi is nothing.

All you need is one door solenoid for the drivers side. It will use the factory one on the passenger side. The M80AU will fire these solenoids just fine, as it interfaces to the drivers side door controls for the central locking. Yes defiantly have a pro do this unless your very good at electronics/wiring.

I installed a mongoose M80AU in my r33 gtr last weekend. Yeah it got it off ebay but they are a reputable brand, and are locally supported. I installed the power window controller as well so it winds up the windows and locks the doors when you press the lock button on the remote. Has turbo timer support as well. It came with ultrasonic sensors, 2 stage shock sensor, bonnet switch sensor, battery backup siren, and a lot of wire. I was lucky that the previous owner of my car had left the drivers side central locking solenoid installed from the alarm they had removed from the car. I dont recommended wiring this in for the feint hearted. I can wire in ecu's faster than this took. The time consuming part is locating the various factory circuits to splice into without a circuit diagram. And removing the interior without braking anything so I can run cable to the boot for power, imobilizers etc. Its a good time to re-wire a stereo at the same time, as i did. Cheers, Ian

Hi everyone, When I have the pedal fully pressed to the floor and I rev the engine a little, I feel clutch pressure increasing a little bit and the pedal tries to come up off the floor. This is especially noticable if I let the clutch out about 5mm from the floor and blip the throttle so the engine revs to about 2000 rpm. The car is an R33 Vspec GTR. The clutch feels like a slightly heavier than normal single plate. It doesnt slip when on boost so its probably ok. I have replaced the nylon bush in the clutch pedal with brass bush to eliminate some of the play, and can still adjust the shaft that pushes on the piston a little. Is there something else i'm missing, or will just adjusting the push rod thing sort out this issue? Cheers, Ian

The head cost me $1500 with everything needed to do the 25/30 conversion, manfolds, std injectors, fuel rail, cams , pullies all bolts etc, timing belt covers the works. ARP head bolt kits another $270 and the tomei head gasket was another $400ish from memory. Then I had machining done on the head so its all ready to assemble. Make me a realistic offer and its all yours. I have no use for any of it with my new car.

If you are able to, sell your engine complete it will sell easier than as parts. Also you can then buy my RB25DET head, arp head studs and tomei 1.2mm head gasket from me . I was all geared up to build a RB25/30 for my GTS4 but ended up selling most of it and getting an R33 GTR instead. The head is pressure tested and machined ready for assembly. excuse my advertising ... Cheers, Ian

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I've seen an RB25Det with the GT3540 (0.82 housing)on it run over 400kw to the tyres. Boost was around 32lb i think. Aries pistons and crower rods, stock cams, and an un-ported head. It also had a metal head gasket and ARPM head studs. Crank was stock. It barely got boost in 1st gear, in 2nd it came on like a switch at 5000 rpm with instant revs past 7500 and a hail of wheel spin and tyre smoke, same deal in 3rd and 4th. 3lt bottom end is the way to go, but if you cant afford that, doing pistons and rods so you can safely rev it past 7500 reliably, and maybe a GTR crank is the way to go. There is one in the parts section that has the JUN crank collar fitted for the oil pump thats reasonably cheap. Every bit of displacement increase you can get will help reduce lag a little. Also, keep in mind oil restrictors for your head or you'll end up with no oil in the sump if you rev above 7500. Or you can run an external oil return to the sump. See how one mod leads to another... and another.. $$$ Good luck with it. Ian

I'll add, the Mitsubishi ones i've seen from the 4g63 evo engines have a check valve with a tiny ball and spring inside them. This sometimes blocks and can hold the valve open, which is not good. Mitsubishi's idea is that the valves open above 40psi oil pressure to begin cooling the pistons. Then at idle the cooling is switched off due to the lower oil pressure, and lower engine speeds. Do the Nissan ones do this as well, or something simular to control oil flow to the squirters? Cheers again, Ian

Hi all, I'm about to undertake building an engine thats not for a skyline, although I want to steel an engine design concept from the RB engine. RB engines use an oil squirter for cooling the pistons from the underside. I want to use 4 piston squirters in each cylinder head on my VW race engine to spray the valve springs and lubricate the roller rockers. This is not a new idea, the V8 guys have been doing this for years and it adds life to the valve train by cooling the springs better as well as helps make the rockers last longer. They normally run a spray bar that are welded inside the rocker covers, and its attached to an external oil feed from a full flow system. Does anyone have any pictures of the oil sqiurters, and how the bolt inside the block? Cheers, Ian

Bump!

I don't have a set, but I know a guy called Dave that can supply 2 that are off a 33 Vspec. call 0418104657 ask for Dave and say that you got his number from Ian. Cheers, Ian

Thanks Beer Baron. Going to be talking to you in 3 months time about a nice street suspension setup for my R33 GTR. I've had the plesure of driving a friends "R32 GTR" (thats his username too), that bought a set of customised bilsteins off you. I hope your R33 setup works just as well. Cheers, Ian

Yes I did thanks, but I ended up buying Raw111's R33 GTR Vspec last weekend instead. Good luck with the sale of your car though, its definatly a good buy. Cheers, Ian

Hmm not sure. R32 GTR (his username), got them second hand off one of sydney kids many cars I think. He has the bilsteins on it a the moment, and when combined with the sway bars it aparently is amazing. Its impressive as already.

I've got a Greddy/trust pump thats new... was that you I was talking too on the phone earlier today about oil pumps? Anyway, $1300 and its yours. They are $1500 new. Cheers, Ian

Hi, The keyhole cover has broken off my boot lock on my R33 GTR. Anyone have one lying around? Cheers, Ian

Hi all, Just bought my R33 GTR Vspec and it has a set of Tein HA's under it with springs that are way too hard. I have done a little research and discovered the valving can be tuned in these suspension, and also they have 16 levels of adjustment as is. I live in Cairns, and the roads are rough as hell in most places. Id still like to be able to corner, but would like a smoother ride. I've driven a mates R32 GTR that had a set of customised bilsteins from Sydney Kid on it and it was nice, though just a little on the rough side as well. I think his springs rates were 4 and 5kg but aren't sure? I think my sway bars are stock, though I have to confirm that when the cars on a hoist today. Can someone please make some suggestions on how to soften my ride? My girlfriend cant deal with the vibration and gets motion sick (sadly not orgams). Cheers, Ian

Howdee, Can you please change my username to "Vspec R33" Cheers, Ian

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