GTRNUR

Is your crank grub screwed, or does it have the factory plugs? What about the block? Did you drill and grub screw the main oil gallery at both ends, so you can push a cleaning plunger through from the main oil bearing oil feed groove to the main gallery? I've heard of the incorrect thermostat hook-up killing engines before too...Multiple times too sadly...

90mm x 88mm bore = 3285cc. I'd have liked to have seen a billet alloy cylinder block that used Nikasil plated cylinders, instead of a iron cylinder. Basically what Porsche did with 928 engine. It would have made it a far more streetable engine, and would have allowed them to stretch the bore to 90mm as well. There are companies in Australia doing Nikasil re-plating for some motorbike cylinders, so it would have been possible to do without going over-seas. Based on their posted R&D photo's on their facebook page, I think this is targeted more to the methanol burning 1500+hp drag racing croud.

Regardless of head, cams etc and all things being equal except for displacement, the larger motor will always produce more power everywhere in the curve than the smaller motor. While a VE at a given RPM point may be lower, remember that VE is effeciency relative to volume being displaced. So while a VE may appear to be lower on the bigger motor for a certain RPM/Load point, it is still moving at least as much air as the smaller motor is for that same RPM/Load point. Whether the engine is under boost or vacuum, more displacement per cylinder will equal more efficent cylinder filling. For a single rotation the larger motor is moving more gas. Without going into rod ratios or any of that other crap, this means a larger motor will pull more pressure differencial relative to the pressure inside the intake plenum than a smaller motor. If you do factor in rod ratios, the shorter rod ratio has benefits there for better cylinder filling too, due to faster acceleration of the piston away from TDC. Even at the top end of the RPM range when the head is becoming a restriction to allowable airflow, and the power curve dropping off for the large engine will still be a higher output than a smaller motor would for that same RPM. Simply because it is moving more air through the restrictive ports than the smaller motor can, due to that increased pressure differential.

If your never planning on running E85 then you should consider lowering the compression closer to 8-8.5:1. This will allow you to run those larger turbo's at least a bit closer to 1.5kg/cm without hitting the knock limit. There is little point in running a huge turbo when you can't boost it more than 1kg/cm boost with it, that is unless you want that big turbo for visual appearance, and don't care about the combined lag and lower power level.

Urgently chasing a set of second hand dumps for an R34 GTR to match up to a 3" HKS front pipe. PM me if you've got the.

So Fuel Lab have built solid state relays into their pumps. Pretty clever and yes it should work too without the need for a solid state relay to drive it. There isn't much info at all on their electronic regulators though other than that they contain a PWM controller in the base. Shame it will be mounted at the wrong end of the car to easily connect to the pump.

Which pumps have a PWM input? What I've done will work for bosch, holly, walbro etc..

I have been extremely busy the work that pays my bills lately, so the car had been sitting with a big box of parts next to it for way too long. But the past 2-3 weekends I've been able to give it some time. The E85 fuel system is finished. I now have two in tank lift pumps and an external Holly 1800, all capable of around 600lt/hr. Injector wise I went with the bosch 1450cc. When run at 58psi they flow 1781cc, which will meet my power goal on E85. All fuel lines are now AN8. I bought an IO expander for the Haltech and mounted it in the boot, so it is able to have short wiring to the flex fuel sensor (which is mounted inline with the overflow from the surge tank). I am also using the digital pulsed outputs to control fuel pump speed dynamically based on injector duty cycle. So far that appears to keep the pumps and fuel cold enough that I wont need to add a fuel cooler on the return line. There is a couple more things to do to the car before it will be ready to hit the dyno. I have a new LSU4.9 wideband setup to put in the car and a little tidy up here and there. I'm also gathering the last few pieces together for preparing 2 more bottom ends which will be going into R&D cars. Thats going to hopefully all come together over the next couple of months. Crankshaft machining starts in the next week or 2, and hopefully the blocks will be sleeved some time after that.

Now that I've got one of these Ecu's in my car I've been slowly getting familiar with the VE approach to tuning. Searched as I have, I've not seen a thread with much useful information, and certainly nothing with any cool tricks or FAQ. So let it begin. If you come up with a unique solution or trick then post it up. Got a question, post it up. Know the answer... post it up! Automatic Cell Tracking The first thing with the Haltech that I noticed is that it wont "align" to the current load point without you first pressing the space bar. This is a bit annoying for me, as I have always used this feature when performing light load tuning corrections when road tuning. I normally do this with a wireless mouse that has extra programmable buttons to send increase/decrease current cell keystrokes. I found the solution to get that capability here in a program called X-Mouse. http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/14400/use-those-extra-mouse-buttons-to-increase-efficiency/ This program allows you to map a sequence of simulated key strokes to the extra mouse buttons on any mouse. Variable fuel pump speed control I've upgraded my fuel pump setup, and wanted a method to control the fuel pump speeds so they dont run flat out the whole time. There are a few benefits to this. The main ones are cooler fuel, less power consumption and electrical system load, and the capability to run smaller supply, regulator, and return lines for the pressure circult. I have used a pair of solid state relays which are driven by a pair of DPO outputs. The outputs are controlled by a table that uses the Fuel Pump signal as one axis, and the other axis linked to Injector 1 duty cycle. Fuel pump speed is ramped from 30 at idle to 100% at 70% injector duty. It works a treat for the lift pumps and the main pressure pump. The Holly 1800 remains at near ambient temps to the touch. The map is set such that if the duty is at 0, but the pump is on duty will be at 100% so the fuel system will prime. Once duty is > 1%, fuel pump speed becomes variable and dependant entirely on duty. As the motors are an inductive device, a 1n4004 diode must be wired across the fuel pump motor. Otherwise a high voltage spike will kill the solid state relay as it is switched on and off at high frequency. Thanks to Mitch at Haltech for assisting with the mapping for the PWM DPO's. Everyone feel free to contribute.

Then answer to that brain bender is that I am referring to light loads and off boost drivability. At idle and low speed cruise, less atmosphere caused the map sensor to move about 500 on the PIM scale towards 0psi. This meant that the tune that was stable at sea level would end up rich when at altitude. It didn't matter what map sensor I used. Apexi 3 bar, apexi 3.5 bar, GM 3 bar. They all handled atmospheric change terribly. In short the rate if any that they did work differently did not even remotely work with the FC. Also with the laser IR thermometer I meant to show you what I was talking about. Don't buy a cheap ebay one as GTSboy said. It has to read at least 500-700 degrees. Also when you are checking header temps, you must be holding the engine at load (WOT/full load is good if your not also at full boost at that time) say 3000, but importantly it must also be a rich tune in the 12's at the time. You then take a reading from each header, and make your trims from there. It will require very small amounts, no more than 1-1.5% as even that on an ID1000 is a significant amount.

Unless you have individual sensors in each runner, the only option is one of these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Best-IR-Infrared-Laser-Thermometer-Temperature-Measurer-Gun-Wireless-Temp-Tester-/290840273731?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item43b76e6343

I would suggest setting your injector trims back to 0 until you can set them up when the car is on the dyno. The correct method would be to run the car under low load in top gear, and monitor the egt's with an exhaust probe. Then trim up your values till you read the same on all your cylinders. You shouldn't be making any changes to the tune or even driving it at full load at all unless you are monitoring the ignition map and checking for knock at the same time. Turn on the Advanced sensor feature in FC Edit so you can use the Map Watcher to monitor for knock. Logged results will vary from car to car, but you will generally want to keep your knock values low 30's at the most. That is until you can have the car on a dyno, and properly monitor for knock with a set of headphones and a knock box. Use the min/max/avg view settings in your map watch so you can see trends beginning to form based on how your driving it.

Your issues at 5000+ RPM really just comes down to more tuning time is required. Higher engine speeds stabilise engine vacuum and MAP stability in general, regardless of what MAP sensor or how many throttles you have. How big your cams are, and how many throttles you have will really only affect your low speed tuning. Even then you should be able to get a good lambda cruise tune, and even a decent idle provided your injectors are reasonable. Use the Map watcher, and watch your wideband input channel and just start pulling fuel out of the map. It really will be that simple. When I used a djetro in my car, I found the base maps to be less that useless. Ok for a startup (sort of)... but that's about all. Generally you need to completely re-work the map. Its not at all like an ljetro where a factory map will drive for the most part Ok in a stock car. The biggest piss off for the djetro for me was lack of atmospheric correction capability, which meant if I went up the nearby range the car would run like crap. All the more modern ECUs have boat loads more capability. In comparison the old FC is really in a class of race only, and not much good for anything else.

If you do do a swap of the running gear to an R34, then for the love of god pay someone to do it so its not parked in a garage for 6 more months. Passion is lost when too much time passes by.

I think I remember reading somewhere in this thread that you have a 79.3mm crank. What brand is it, or is it custom?

Its a GTR, expect it to cost money! I'd be more concerned about getting a car without rust than one with a built motor. Engines can be replaced but rust had a tendency get worse before you realise that its really bad.

More changes are still in the works. I've replaced the entire fuel system again after being talked into going down the E85 flex fuel path. So bigger injectors, more pumps, bigger fuel lines, external surge tank and bags of fittings... It takes for ever to get parts up here too. Pay for overnight and it arrives 3+ days later. I've yet to source and wire in a flex fuel sensor, and I've got locate a fuel cooler to mount behind the diff too. The interesting news is that I hope to be getting Mercury Motorsports to come to Cairns to do the final tune and setup of the car. If anyone can get it to produce a good final result, I think they are certainly capable of it.

If that fails, contact Julian at Aftermarket Industries / CNC Industries. Apart from making good fuel systems he also has very decent CNC machining capability in China. He made the first 3 alloy spacer plates for my V3 engines and the quality is great.

Just to clarify, you have plated off inside the pump where the mechanical impeller normally is right? So it is essentially just a passage from the thermostat housing to the main water gallery supply on the passenger side of the engine block? You say your water inlet is via the thermostat housing (no thermostat). Where is the water outlet?

A new laser cut trigger disc in the stock sensor would be what I'd do to create the reference signal. The other option I have used successfully is to have a set of 316 stainless bolts and one high tensile steel bolt holding on the cam gear. Then use the steel bolt to trigger the cam reference sensor.

I have had little luck getting my engines to start on the base maps for the d-jetro. I found it best to completely do away with the base map in the ECU, and start again from scratch. Its pretty easy to do once you get the engine to idle. To do that though you need to know how to set it up. Turn on a watch in the datalogit, and watch Injector MS. Make note of what it is doing during initial starting and when it stalls out. See if it goes to <2ms or even zero. Having a wideband O2 can help too, as you can see if it goes super lean before cutting out. Finally there is the fuel/ignition lockout method. Set all your fuel base MS to 2.00ms for the 1200 RPM and below range, and ignition at 20 degrees for the same range. This will allow your MAP sensor to be ignored and essentially locks your fuel/ignition delivery with fixed values to allow you to get the car to idle. Start the car, and note the O2 meter (if you have one). Increase the fuel MS for the locked out range gradually if need be (if it keeps stalling out). Once its running properly, you will be able to determine what the load point is that the MAP sensor will operate at when idling. Then break out a timing light and set your base ignition to 20 degrees, and adjust your fuel again to get it idling nice. If you have no wideband, you can reduce fuel little by little for the idle load point while watching RPM. Keep reducing fuel while RPM increases until it stops increasing. Then add about 0.1ms. Once you have it idling, you can adjust your MAP sensor Offset value such to put the idle load point at the second from the bottom load range. Turn on another watch, and monitor the PIM value. Use this value to modify the offset for the Map sensor to move the load point. Engines with stock cams will pull a -18inHG vacuum, so the second from the bottom load point is a good place to set it too. Larger cammed engines will have less vacuum, so set it at the 3rd load point for those.

Suspension sold.

Forgot to mention the Power FC D-Jetro also has the hand controller to go with it.

Datalogit Sold.

Single sensor, not two. The D-Jetro will support any MAP sensor provided you go to the effort of calibrating it properly. No I didnt have any issues running a single sensor on a multi throttle RB. Although I suspect twin map sensors are more useful at providing a more stable load point on little engines with big cams. http://www.frsport.com/APEXi-499-X002-AVC-R-Pressure-Sensor_p_9450.html APEXi-499-X002