GTRNUR

Hi All, Ran a diagnostic on my climate control today and discovered there is a water temp input signal from the engines water temp sensor. It appears that the water temp signal is shared with the temp signal from the 2 wire temp sensor on the engine. When I wired in my Wolf ecu i neglected to wire this signal back to the climate control, so the climate control had no idea what the engine temp was, and as a result can't mix hot and cold air properly. So... how does everyone get around this? I tried wiring the signal back to the temp sensor again, bit this affects the temperature that the ECU see's as the climate control's input impedance drags the signal voltage down. The only other thing I was thinking of doing was fooling the signal input with a variable resistor so I could fool the climate control ecu into thinking the engine is at 80 degrees. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Cheers, Ian

Which brings the next question.... Ask him how he removed the head bolts and if he did it in any particular order. There is a bolt removal procedure so that you don't warp the head when unbolting it. Chances are you will need to get the head lightly shaved to remove gasket bruising from the head, but you can do without having to get it crack tested along with the valve train rebuild etc.

Bush mechanic. The moment he heard a bad noise especially after having done some major top end work he was MAD to not pull the head off to investigate it further. As wrxhoon has said, the dents in the pistons are all the evidence you need. Damaged valve seats or not, you don't get valve train/piston interferance unless the belt is not correctly aligned. Good luck sorting it out...

Hi All, I'm wondering if anyone has put together a check list of things to do before and during assembly of an RB engine. There are often all sorts of little tricks that engine builders that KNOW their engines do that make the diference between an engine being strong and REALY STRONG if you know what I mean. From my experience in building performance VW engines i've come accross all kinds of updates to procedures and diferent assembly techniques that people have done to "update" engine rebuild procedures. Things like re-surfacing the oil pressure relief valves, blue printing the oil pump, torquing the head studs 1lb extra and the mains 7lb extra than stock when using certain types of aftermarket studs etc. All done to improve the reliability of a stressed perforance engine. So I ask, what are the heap of engine builder tricks out there for the RB engines that only the pro's know about?

What are the problem area's to look at on R33 GTR's? With the R32's theres the rust issue to contend with, so i'm thinking of giving them a skip and switching straight up to an R33 GTR. Is there a buyers guide/checklist on the forum that has all the area's to checkout when buying an R33GTR ?

Should be 1/8th bsp tapered for the pressure fitting. Don't know about the temp one.

SOLD

I need a couple of bulbs and bulb holders for the ABS and Hand Brake lights in the dash in My R32. Does anyone have an old dash from some front cut from any Nissan lying around? CHeers, Ian

Hi Everyone. I use my R32 as my company vehicle, which makes it a great for writing off "mecahnical repairs" on tax, but its a pain in the ass when things break... like today. Today was a busy as day for me today. Left my first customer and was 1/2 a block from the second customer, pressed in the clutch to change gears and I hear something snap and the clutch pedal hits the floor and something falls on my clutch foot. Oh CRAP! Drove the rest of the way there in 2nd gear, pulled over and discovered that what i'd felt fall on my foot was a piece of heavy gauge fence wire. It had been used to attach the clutch pedals upper support to the chassis. It had been put in there back from when my GTS4 was an auto and had been converted to a manual. I don't know if that was when it was in Japan or australia... but JESUS CHRIST I am so over finding supprises. Fixing it took a half hour where I got a nice high tensile 10mm bolt and bolted it to the chassis. Clutch has never felt so good as it does now. I've lost count of how many of these supprises i've come accros with this car.... Broken exhaust studs Overheating due to blocked radiator (found after replacing water pump) Dodgy as hell stereo wiring... Its just a fuse (said the owner)... replaced aircon clutch and a shit load of wiring later... Who else has been screwed by dodgy work done by previous owners? Post up your story and share your pain! Cheers, Ian

I am keen to see and hear about how the puzzle of what to do with manifolds was solved. For those that have done this, was it achieved by using an RB25 header plate and welding some 26 manifolds to it (26 flanges cut off) ? Or is full custom the best way to go? I'm thinking twin GTRS's or 3037's... Cheers, Ian

In theory it should handle any boost level I would have thought. The valve has the same pressure on both sides of it at all times when your on boost. Only when shifting can it be a problem, and event then the down side is that the bov doesn't flow enough to allow it to stop a pressure spike back through the intake plumbing and reducing turbine speed.

I'm interested but how did you find the intercooler affected engine temps, restricting air flow to the radiator... Clearly it looks like your car isn't a daily driver, i'd imagine the chute gets too much police attention on the street. Cheers, Ian

Thanks. Is there any pics around? I am looking for something that is comparable in quality to the Hi Octane baffeled customs sumps...

DO you have any contact details for him?

yeah looked at that, but I want to build the engine up complete out of the car without canabolizing the current running engine...

Hi all, Chasing an RB26 sump that someone has installed an extension on, has baffels and also an external pickup fitted. Something with about 8lt cappacity would be nice. Cheers, Ian

Hi Guys, About to have my RB30/25 assembled and I've come accross an issue... I have a pair of Tomei oil restrictors for the block and I am using an RB25DET head. When reading through the catalog of Nengun as we sometimes do I came across the restrictors and read the following: - Combine with STD orifice to use For RB25&20, ONLY solid type is available (cannot used on lash type) This had me thinking, does this mean incompatible with the hydraulic lifters in the RB25DET Head? It does make sense the head would require more oil pressure at high RPM to ensure there is enough pressure in the lifters... This brings me to what are my options? I've heard of people adding an extra oil return to the sump from the rocker covers to help stop oil filling the covers. Also, drilling the oil return oversize. What about conversion to solid lifters with a diferent cam shaft setup? Should I consider this upgrade and kill 2 birds with one stone? Cheers, Ian

Wow this is a huge thread! I managed 205kw at 6500 rpm at my first dyno session with my RB20DET but stopped after the first run as it was running on 5 cylinders due to a spark plug failure. Hard to say what it makes on 6 cylinders at 7500 rpm but its got to be about 230+ at least. I've run the 1/4 mile 3 times in it, and my times reflect my bad driver ability. I was still learning to launch the car with the twin plate and had some running and anti-lag issues. My best time was a 13.8 at 116.9mph when I stalled it off the line, but managed to not screw up shifting gears after that. The car does go pretty good. With 4 people in the car and launching it on anti-lag I can smoke all 4 wheels and break 2nd gear loose on a rubber coated surface. Did this at a recent go to woah event at a local car show. Air temps on the day were about 32-34 degrees. The engine is internally stock but I've done all the bolt on's: Custom plenum GT25BB400 0.64/0.7 hot/cold on a high mount, 20lb boost 440cc injectors, 50psi pressure at idle Wolf V4 plus ecu MSD CDI with 3 coil waste spark ignition, BCPR7ES plugs 600x300x76 intercooler GTR gearbox nismo gmax twin plate remote oil cooler and filter I suspect its going to die if i keep treating it like I do, so a strong as 30/25 is being installed inside a month.

Has anyone every tried to alter the geometry of an RB engine to really make it rev? What about using an RB30 block with and RB26 crank and pistons. The de-stroke of the engine gives you 0.444" extra deck, and then using RB26 compression height pistons would give an extra 0.020" or so. To restore the deck to 0 you can then run a 6.4" conrod which changes the rod ratio to 2.2:1. There is a huge range of chevy rods available that would help this too. TItanium and aluminium etc. Also, i've read you can bore an RB30 block to a 90mm bore, so there's the 2.8lt capacity, plus a 2.2:1 rod ratio, and a crankshaft thats proven to high rpm's from factory.

Dude that fan shround looks exactly like the one I took of my car. It "appears" to be missing a part that sits in the bottom corner in front of the aircon compressor, but thats not the case. There isn't supposed to be anything there. Your cars runing pretty dam hot too. I'd consider investing in an aluminium radiator. Rob (R32 GTR) has just bought a custom PWR radiator and its about the sexiest piece of gear i've ever seen. It just says 500+hp looking at it. A good quality alloy radiator with a shroud and twin thermo's will definatly solve 99% of heating issues. Sounds like your injection is still running 3 pair batch fire too. My pulse widths are around 2.25ms at idle with a 13:1 AFR. Injectors are 440cc and I've cranked more fuel pressure in too, though I can't remember exactly how much... Cheers, Ian

Yeah my water pump is new, and Rob's (R32 GT-R) is ok too as it still has flow when its hot. I've since installed a new 300mm airconditioning davies craig fan, and a 16" thermo on the radiator and my problems are more or less solved. I just need to work on a better shroud arrangement for it all. I suspect the twin 300mm fans or el falcon fans would have been the better way to go, but its all part of the testing phase i guess. So far it runs on 77-79 degrees at night with the aircon off. During the day it runs up to 88 degrees in traffic, but with the aircon on that drops to about 84, so it is working ok. I've also found that after taking the car for a flogging it takes longer for the thermo to pull the water temps down than it did even with the 3/4's buggered fan. I suspect that better shrouding or a switch to twin thermos will sort that out quickly.

Cheapest N1's Ive found were $420ish. The collar is about $250-270 delivered, and machining the crank for the collar is about $120. Thats what I meant by about $1k. Yeah the jun pump would be ideal if your building an engine for track, but then you really don't hold back on the spending then too. N1's seem to be a proven system that works reliably for the street and ocasional track use. What had you heard about N1's breaking? Was it because they were being installed without a collar, or was it something else.

For about an extra 1K to get the N1 pump, have the crank machined for a pump collar and get some restrictors, its cheap insurance for the big $$$ motor. Thats the way i've gone with my 25/30. The jun collars were on special on Nengun and might still be. The restrictors you can get from hioctaneracing.com.au and there's some cheap N1 pumps to be had on the forum here.

Sorry... Sold.

I've heard of HKS manifolds cracking on engines making over 450 to the tyres. Like all things when you give them a flogging they wear out eventually. Personally my GTS4 has a chinese made $250 special on it and I've abused the hell out of it. Its wrapped in header wrap which some will say caused issues, but the big thing is that I'm daily running 20lb+ boost and also use anti-lag which blasts hell out of the thing as far as temps go. Its holding up so far. I'm expecing it to fail some day, but when it does I know i've gotten my money's worth.