GTRNUR

Hi all, R32 GTS and GTR engine fans are all getting pretty old so it seems. Mine and a mates on his GTR have both failed and don't blow enough air, resulting in overheating when idling. I'd imagine that getting another fan off an R32 would be in simular condition. My questions are...: Will an R33 GTS fan fit? I guess what I'm really after is a fan diameter and length from the flange where it goes onto the water pump, to the front so I can compare them. Also, who has a success story to share about there experiences in switching to a thermo fan... and if so how did you do it (keep the old shrould, fabricate a new shroud, or just throw the whole thing away and direct mount the thermo on the radiator)? Cheers, Ian.

Is there any diferences in moutings between these two sumps, as in are they 100% interchangable? The reason I ask is that I am building an RB25/30 and want to use the AWD sump from under my RB20DET in my GTS4 on the engine. I am also considering purchasing a hi-octane large volume GTR sump and need to know if all my GTS4 diff etc will be compatible to bolt into it all. Cheers, Ian

Ok. Hmm... well upon closer inspection i've found the wheels aren't magnetic. I have an GT25R-320 which is steel wheeled here and it definatly is magnetic, plus the shaft looks completely diferent with a balance notch grinded into the end of it. Does anyone know the codes on the N1 series turbo's so I can be sure? The codes on these are: 466071-6004 and 14411-05u22 Any help appreciated! Cheers, Ian

I am looking at buying a pair of R33 Vspec steel wheeled turbo's. They are in excelent condition, no wastegate seat cracks, no signs of compressor wheel wear etc. They also have 14lb hks actuators on them. Whats a fair price for these? The owner wants $1800 for the pair. Is this unrealistic? Cheers, Ian

6boost or other quality RB25 exhaust manifold TO4z garret 800hp turbo 3 x MSD DIS CDI dual output coils A throttle body thats 75-80mm in size A genuine greddy intake plenum 6 x 850cc injectors Also i'm after a set of GTR front guards. PM me if you can help me out. Cheers, Ian

If its an RB20 engine but as far as i knew all the R33's even the series 1 were a RB25 engine. Hard to say what compression it will be. It all depends on your piston and deck height combination, and if you've skimmed much off your head. I'll consider trade with a cash offset for the following parts. This is essentially the shopping list of thing I still need for my new engine build : 6boost or other quality RB25 exhaust manifold TO4z garret 800hp turbo 3 x MSD DIS CDI dual output coils A throttle body thats 75-80mm in size A genuine greddy intake plenum 6 x 850cc injectors Also i'm after a set of GTR front guards. Cheers Ian

No I can't sorry. I won't be importing these plenums any time soon either. I guess try ebay? THere was an RB26 plenum with a VQ45 throttle body on there not long ago. It might still be listed. CHeers, Ian

For sale: 1 x Rb20DET Greddy 1.2mm head gasket for 80mm bore, 1.2mm thickness. Condition: New in original packaging. Price and price conditions: $100, or will consider swapping for other RB series parts with cash offset. Contact Details: Ph or SMS: 0434 147 478 or PM me online here. Location: Cairns, can express post anywhere for about $20.00.

A little sideways on the topic but is there an engine building thread that has all the obvious things to check in it like: Bearing clearance's and end float clearances All bolt torque specs and torque orders for the main and head bolts Tricks for pre-oiling Startup check lists and cam/lifter wear-in procedure Assembly tricks like vasoline in the oil pump Just an idea, but it would make a good sticky thread for those that build engines but would like all the data available on the one page. Cheers, Ian

Well I did the dyno run and the engine made 205rwkw at 7000 rpm. I didn't take it any further than that as something was going wrong with ignition on the day. Turns out my plugs were screwed, and I should have replaced them prior to going to the dyno shop. New plugs are BCPR7ES's if anyone was curious... The anti-lag system uses a combination of an auxilary output on the wolf ecu, an input switch and a 2 step rev limitor. The AUX 2 output on my Wolf ecu turns a relay on at 4250 RPM AND when the accelerator position is at 100% open. Call that the arming relay. That relay switches a ground signal through to the second enable switch that is mounted on the steering wheel (tho i intend to move that to the gear shifter soon, because it will make launching the car easier). When the second enable switch is triggered four things happen all at once. 1. the ground signal switchs on the 2 step rev limitor to lock rpm's from exceeding 4500 with the MSD DIS4. 2. the ground signal also goes back into the Wolf ECU's Aux input 1... 3. the wolf ECU uses the ground input signal from AUX1 to retard the ignition timing 45 degrees on the current ignition map point, and add 12% more fuel. 4. the boost control solenoid boost signal is altered by the input from AUX1 also, which allows the preset launch boost to be programmed. The effect is that with the button pressed on and you floor it, revs instantly go to 4250, and the relay switches on. Fuel is added and ignition is retarded. The engine then very slowly increases RPM to 4500 rpm but within a few seconds its pumping in the pre-set boost level as well. Once RPM hits 4500 the engine will begin backfiring as unburnt fuel burns in the exahust as the ignition cut rev limitor kicks in. The moment you let go of that button boost levels and fuel + ignition levels return to normal for that load point, which means in my case at 4500 rpm i'd have about 200-220 awhp on tap instantly. Provided I let up the clutch and let go of the button at the same time the car launches pretty well. So well i've broken all my rear cradle bushes, and 1/2 the front suspension bushes as well. The car is going to pedders next week for a full suspension refit and upgrade costing a bit under $2K. Without anti-lag driving normally it starts making positive pressure around 3000 rpm. Its making 15lb by 3800 usually and always at full boost by 4000-4200 rpm depending on the gear. My plenum will be for sale soon though, as my new RB25DET engine will be going in the car soon and it will have a greddy plenum on it. The RB20DET is going to be sold for parts as cylinder 5 is slightly low on compression compared to the others and I cant sell it in good concious. The off boost torque is better than it was from factory (i think...). The car never ran right when I got it as it had a dead coil pack when it warmed up. I've re-tuned the car for 98 octane and run a pretty agressive ignition timing curve so although its obvious its still a 2 lt your driving, its not unbearable. Also, thanks to the mods too for deleting the crap posts from this thread by a user that will go un-named. Cheers, Ian

Sorry.. The video's fixed now.

Here's a preview of what the car can do now. This is a 4500 rpm launch with 15lb boost on anti-lag. After the launch it switches to high boost (20lb), but unfortunatly blew a hose before I shifted to 2nd. I'm guessing the power figure is anywhere between 330 and 360hp at the wheels. Anyone else want to take a guess? Still trying for dyno time either late tomorrow of friday. http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/linkdpics/Video3.avi Cheers, Ian

I'm looking at booking dyno time next week actually, so i'll post up the sheet. It will probably happen around wednesday.

On the contry, a gasket is more likely to blow out that if it were siliconed. Use the loctite ultra grey though. The trick to getting the ultimate seal is having both surfaces dead flat which most heads and manifolds should be from factory. Only if you've made you own custom plenum you MIGHT have some heat distortion if you've used youve made your own flanges. As for holding boost and being reliable, I know of engines in the Uk that run 32lb boost and use ONLY ultra grey to seal the intakes and the exhaust flanges. All flanges are machined dead flat and there is rarely a problem. Also one other thing, make sure the surfaces are very clean. Use prepsol or thinners to remove all traces of oil. Ultra grey seals so good that if you un-bolt it, you'll have a hard time getting it apart afterwards.

R32 lower intake runners 5 x RB20/26 coil packs 6 x R32 RB20DET injectors 295cc need cleaning and new seals but otherwise are perfect. 1 x RB20DET fuel rail 1 x SARD fuel pressure adaptor to external regulator. 1 x R32 airconditioning compressor. Fits other nissans as well 1 x R32/R33 push style GTS4 clutch and flywheel. Needs machining and a new disc. I'll accept any reasonable offer that makes it worth my while packaging them up and taking them to the post office. I'd rather sell it than throw this stuff in the wheelie bin. PM or call me on 0434 147 478. All this stuff is in Cairns. Can post it anywhere in australia. Cheers, Ian

I'm interested if you can put it on a pallet and ship it to QLD.

You have a new PM

Define basic mods.... Your best bet is to look at the dyno sheet threads for your type of engine and look at what management people are using. For drivability you can't beat factory management but you'd be suprised how far factory management will go with the right supporting mods. Serious power always requires some sort of tunable ecu though. Piggyback or standalone makes no diffrence so long as you can adjust the fuel and ignition maps. And as is always agreed upon regardless of what ecu you get, make sure you get one that you can have tuned by a reputable tuner that can get you the result you want.

If you can afford to go to a track day you can afford to run the car up on the dyno and have your AFR's monitored. Its cheap insurance to know your AFR's are safe to hold it flat to redline. If your afr is anything higher than 12:1 at max rpm dont race it till its fixed.

I'm not sure... Could have been that for a while there I was running very high fuel pressures (85psi approx) when using stock injectors. It could have been impurities in some fuel, or just a dud pump... The new one is fine and i've never heard of any other 040's ever failing before. Either way, Just Jap replaced it under warranty for me inside a week.

Thanks for the info. Cheers, Ian

A few weeks ago I recall seeing someone was advertising AWD sump adapter plates in their signature. From memory they were aboyt $450... Can whoever that was please PM me as I'm interested. Cheers, Ian

I purchased mine for my VW, not for my skyline. As the VW is oil/air cooled, maintaining a constant oil temp is pretty important, but also hard to do when your engine is bored and stroked 800cc oversize and turbo charged. Water cooling makes engine temperatures a lot easier to manage. I've mounted the oil cooler inside the car behind the passenger front seat on the floor (under the back seat, and out of sight). Water is electrically pumped through twin front mounted radiators. The electric pumps are controlled by the cars engine management.

You can mount it in your boot if you don't mind running the plumbing to it. So long as your main radiator gets sufficent enough air flow, your oil temps will be maintained around the 80-90 degree mark with the rest of your engine, which is where they should be. Most oils begin to loose viscosity around 85-90 degrees, and are really down hill by 130 degrees. The additives in them burn etc and become abrasive, which is really bad....

Seriously consider getting yourself an in car wideband AFR meter. They can literally save your engine from destruction when you start playing around with things. My recent experience when drag racing... sitting in the staging lanes and about to drive out onto the track i glanced at my wideband display and it was reporting 16-17:1 afr's... Hmmm.... Turned out my 040 pump was failing and wasn't flowing enough fuel. Had I actually ran the car I would have melted pistons for sure as I was running 20lb boost that night. I use a PLX devices M300 and it cost me $470 AUD delivered from the US. Considerably cheaper than a new motor.