GTRNUR

HI all, I desperatly need an RB20DET fuel rail in any condition (provided its not bent)! Also the lower timing belt cover if anyone's got one lying around or on a dead engine it would be appreciated. Cheers, Ian.

Hi All, My RB20DET plenum arrived yesterday so this weekend i'll be installing it. My question is that when I changed the exhaust manifold I found that i had a bunch of broken exhaust head studs. Am I in for any simular supprises with the intake side of the engine? Cheers, Ian

From memory it was 0.430" lift at the cam, 0.530" lift at the valve with the 1.25:1 ratio rockers. The ramp angle on the cam is pretty modest from memory. It would have been around the 260-265 mark though i'd have to dig out the cam card to be sure. Sorry... off topic.

Map sensors don't necesarily work very well on all engines. They work well generally on single throttle body setups. They don't work well at all on engines that have wild camshafts with crazy overlap. This is due to the pulsations in the intake manifold after the throttle body(s). One of my previous vw engines for example ran a 294 degree intake duration with 117 degree overlap. That with the quad throttle made it pull -8 to -10 on the vacuum/boost gauge at idle. Not to mention that the signal bounced all over the place. This would have made the low end tune very bad if it weren't for one of the clever load configurations the wolf can use. Basiclly it allows you to use a TPS-MAP change-over point for your load sensing. So the car tunes like a naturally aspirated car till a preset point, at which it switches to map to allow you to do the rest of the tuning. This feature is what makes it possible to tune a GTR with its 6 throttle bodies more easily. The haltech e6x has that capability too.

As a Wolf biased person I still agree with paulr33 here. If the tune is identical the power output should be identical. I've run a car on the dyno 5 successive runs without making a tune change and seen variations as much as 11kw to the rear wheels. Put that down to changes in air temp, engine temp, or even wheel spin but in the end there are always some un-accountable variables that affect the end result. The BEST advice as to which ecu to get that anyone should take is... talk to the person thats going to tune the car first. An ideal wolf setup differs greatly from how an ideal PFC setup works. In the end it comes down to what your tuner can build and tune for you. ECU choice isn't really a factor unless your looking to tune the car yourself, in which case prepare to spend some money on data loggers and diagnostic gear to allow you to tune your own ecu. PFC or wolf, that applies to both.

There is no such thing as a fast injector trigger. If you want to get into specifics, the FC is designed to fire high impedance injectors or low impedance with a resistor pack attached. The wolf does use a diferent kind of circuit design that allows it to directly fire both high or low impedance injectors. This is called a constant current source, and it also protects the ecus outputs from too much load being put on the injector outputs. It does not make the injector slow to open. The 3 bank sequential double fire system does work. The only reason it has problems at idle with big injectors is the minimum on/off times for the injectors as I said above and on the previous page of this thread. The rising rate reg is one way around it, and the other was would be adding a second injector bank weather that be a large 1500cc injector before the plenum or 6 additional injectors in each intake runner. i'm having deja-vu...

I agree Merlin. The ONLY time i go into 250rpm resolution is to make idle stability better when switching the airconditioning on and off so that I can make the interpolation of the map points better during suttle load and RPM changes. The rest of the time I tune in 500RPM resolution, and then I tune in 4th gear at 60, 80k's and 5th gear for 80 and 100k's to get that economical tune. When doing the on boost tune having a ton of load points makes little diference. In the end when your foots flat to the floor and your tuning that max load point your only changing values in 1 row... the 100% load point! Everything else in between just allows you to smooth the transition from 14.7:1 AFR at light cruise thru 13.8 under acceleration to 12:1 at full boost, which you can do with 3 load points.

With the fuel injectors you reach a point where the minimum time the injector is fired for is reached and the injector will begin to open eraticlly. This causes eratic fuel flow and it generally happens around the 1.1-1.3ms mark for most injectors. That amount of injection with the 440cc injectors makes for a 10:1 AFR at idle with my engine, which is just unacceptable. So I can put up with bad economy, or lower the fuel pressure which defeats the point of having the larger injectors in the first place. A ratio FPR allows the fuel presures to be high at full boost to get the required flow thru the injector, but still low enough at idle and low load conditions that the car can have a pulse width that allows for stable injection flow. These ratio regulators only become unstable when you push them above 80psi, which you don't do. A regulator will normally be setup at idle with the vacuum hose disconnected, and then the pressure adjusted to 35 or 43.5psi (depending on what you prefer/or injectors are rated at). That is not how you setup a 1.7:1 rate regulator. In my case i'm aiming for 25psi max boost, and at that pressure I want 70psi max fuel pressure. So 25x1.7=42.5psi total gain from 0. So set my static pressure to 70-42=28psi, and then connect the vacuum hose which will pull the pressure down to about 10psi at idle. This means my idle pulse widths will be in the area of 2.6-2.8ms at idle. Its not about changing the mixtures with the FPR, but obtaining a wider pressure range to gain better injection control.

Well keep me posted how you go Al. Sounds like your problem with idle might be simular to my own. I'm changing my fuel pressure reg this weekend to a 1.7:1 rate so I can run a low idle pressure to try and gain better injector control at low loads and idle. I'll let you know how it goes if you want. Also, if your interested in swapping ecu maps let me know. I find it useful seeing how other tuners setup diferent sections of the wolfs tuning features. Cheers, Ian

Hi Al, How do you get the wolf to use greater low end resolution? Also, as I understand it an FC or factory MAF based load sensing ecu's don't need an air temp signal. However for a wolf to accurately know engine load it needs the air temp correction to work with manifold pressure and RPM. A wolf can retarded ignition with hotter air temps for sure, and it also removes fuel by a few percentages of the base map to maintain correct AFR's. A MAF sensor doesn't need to have correction maps that work in this fashion because the load sensing is already based on air density. One isn't better than the other, its just a different approach for ecu design and tuning IMO... Oh and starting problems just means its not tuned properly... Fact is most people have their cars tuned by a shop in the middle of the day, so the tuner rarely has the opportunity to tune the car in the morning when its cold and make corrections to the cold start fuel and ignition maps. It takes a fair amount of tweaking to get that factory degree of drivability accross the entire engine temperature range and as the car warms up quickly you don't get a lot of time to fix it. And its impossible to have a tuner fix it unless they are the first to start the car that day. Ian.

Fair enough I didn't realise the GTIR's used a dizzy, but putting that aside... Trigger 1 configuration allows the engine position to be calibrated from -11 to 78 degrees. With a timing light when setting up a wolf the first thing you do is calibrate this setting so that the degrees ignition displayed on the hand controller is the same as what the crank pully says. Lexus V8's don't have a dizzy or any sensor components that move at all, and you can calibrate them just fine. Not that i'm trying to convince you to go buy a wolf ecu again, but i figured that your problem wasn't as big a deal as you thought.

Parallel wire in i guess... I originally installed my wolf ecu in this fashion next to the factory management but later discovered it was overkill and not necessary to retain the AWD system of my GTS4, so i yanked out all the factory wiring and scratch wired it in a much simpler fashion. The advantage that I wouldn't have minded having was having the capability to download factory data using that datalog system, and getting access to PING data as an additional tuning aid. Ian.

I noticed Rob92's comments about having the wolf being hard to tune on a GTIR SR20, with issues to do with ignition timing and also idle issues with large injectors. It sounds like you needed to get some better support because something was definatly a miss there... Every engine has a few diferences, and the abilty to rotate the entire sensor assebly on the SR20 is one of them. You could have easily adjust the trigger 1 setting to set your static timing if you weren't able to get enough adjustment in the sensor itself. I've previously tuned a wolf 3dv4 on a S13 SR20det with 850cc injectors running sequential injection(that being the key), and it idled perfect with 1.55ms injector pulse width, and made well over 330rwhp with 20lb boost. Absolutely no issues at all with idle stability either. The trick is making it idle first before you start messing with the idle control features. If it doesn't idle smoothly when its warm, it certinly won't do it when its cold. It says that in the book by the way... but not a lot of people read that.. If you go down the custom plenum path and want to upgrade to a stepper idle control motor, the idle stability is awesome. I've used a haltech stepper with the wolf ecu on a wrx engine with great success before. Its dead quiet and really smooth in operation. MerlinTheHapyPig mentioned the wolf's wideband support and datalogging as a handy tool, but fact is you can't datalog wideband data. The data logging is actually quite limited and only records min and max values for a drive. Its still very useful, but to get real data logging you need something better. Personally i interface a PLX devices M300 to the wolf, and it simulates narrow band data to the wolf, yet displays wideband data on the display. Allows me to use the hand controller for displaying all the other data i need. The wolfs wideband info is just displayed on one of the hand controllers screens, so if your looking at the AFR, you can't also look at the current injector pulse width at the same time. Im runnign a wolf 3dv4 plus on my skyline r32 with a RB20det at the moment. Having had some experience tuning them I can easily create a base map in about 10 minutes, and make it safe and drivable in about 20-30 minutes. Once your used to them they are great ecu's. My last quickie safe tune made 315 rwhp on a stock SR20DET with 550cc injectors and a GT2835. With stock injectors the tune of my RB20DET was very good. I had it tuned for max economy and managed 540k's out of a tank on a long drive including some overtaking and a hill climb up a range. This was running open loop too. But its not all roses... I've recently upgraded to 440cc gtr injectors and as a result have lost some low end drivability. It occasionally miss fires on all cylinders at low engine load and idle. This is because the idle MS pulse width of theinjector is 2-2.2ms at idle. Keep in mind that injection is fired in 3 banks, with 2 injectors wired in parallel on each bank. This means the injector is being asked to turn on and off for 1ms per engine rotation. The injectors become stable at 1.3ms, but that is way too much fuel for idle and for low speed crusing. I can't be certain, but i think this is where an FC would be better than a wolf as i think they fire injectors sequentially. The solution is to switch to a high rate regulator, and run low pressure at idle so the pulse width's can be larger. Then at 20lb boost the fuel pressures will still be 75psi+, providing the flow needed for 20lb boost at 7500 rpm. I am seriously considering changing the injection setup to run 12 injectors when I install my new plenum however. I could run the stock injectors for low end, and then stage in the 440cc injectors above 0lb boost. This would give me the best of both worlds, plus fuel for 25lb boost. Just my thoughts... Ian.

So where are the best places to look for a clutch for the right dollars? Cheers, Ian.

Hi and thanks for the reply. I'm in Cairns, Queensland, 4870. I'm happy to pay for freight, it can't be more than $15 or so to have it sent by mail... Cheers, Ian

As it says above, has anyone got a lower timing belt cover that they don't need perhaps off a dead engine? Cheers, Ian 0434 147 478

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I'm chasing a RB26 intake plenum, throttle bodies optional. I'd like the IAC valve if its still attached too. Any condition.... Cheers, Ian

Is the plenum still available? Cheers, Ian

I've got a 5 good R32 coil packs and an R32 aircon compressor for sale. Will consider any reasonable offers... These parts have gotta go... parts are located in Cairns, QLD. Can freight the coil packs via airbag overnight for $15 with TNT. The compressor will have to be sent via mail and will cost about $25-35 max to send anywhere in australia. Cheers,

I've got a set of 4 R33 standard 16x7" wheels in good but worn condition. No kurb rash but they are pretty scratched up and could do with a re-spray. Good for drift, drags or burnouts though. Will accept any reasonable offer. Freight via TNT for about $100 to anywhere in australia. The wheels are located in Cairns, QLD. Cheers, Ian 0434 147 478

Sorry... the gasket that goes between the head and the runners is what I want, plus the runners themselves. Cheers, Ian

I'll take the head-manifold intake gasket? I'm also interested in the intake manifold if you will seperate the upper polished part from the intake runners, IAC fuel rail and injectors etc. I only need the lower part to make a plenum from. Cheers, Ian

I'm interested in the intake manifold runners if you can unbolt the upper section that has the throttle body, idle control stuff etc on it. I only need the lower part that attaches to the head so I can cut it up and make a side mount plenum from it. $75 + freight? Cheers, Ian

Hi All, Well i've had my car re-sprayed, and need to get a new badge for the boot. Is it possible to source original GTS-4 badge or sticker from somewhere? My other option is making up a vinal template for the badge, and then have it painted onto the boot then clear coated again. To do that I'd need to know what the font is tho, so it looks sort of original. Any help appreciated. Cheers, Ian