GTRNUR

Does anyone know where I might source a rear window seal for an R32 Skyline? I've been quoted $445.20 for the seal kit and $88.45 for some inner fastener thing... :S I want the genuine part but don't want to have to have my pants taken down over it... Cheers, Ian

Hi all, Here's my first newbie suspension question... My gst4 is lowered and as i understand it the R32 GTS4 shares common suspension parts with the R32 GTR. So newbie question number 1 is.... Do I but an R32 GTR or an R32 GTST strut brace? And the second question... Will it clear my high mount GT25 BB 400 turbo? And hear's a picture... No comments about my temporary intercooler plumbing... its just till my plenums arrive! Cheers, Ian.

With the exception of a lexus v8 i've wired, every aftermarket ecu i've installed involved modifying the crank/cam triggering to some degree. Weather tham means using a custom trigger disc to replace stock ones, or just modifying the factory sensors, 9/10 ecu's will require some degree of alteration to gain the peak performance and tuning capabilities. (that includes autronic, ems, wolf, and haltech, NOT and FC) All aftermarket ecu's on the market at present support input triggering from 2 or 3 independant triggers, and also support many ways of configuring those inputs to achieve the desired tunable result. All this is irelivent as provided the trigger disc is correctly made and accurate, one brand of ecu will be as equally accurate as another with regards to timing and injection accuracy. I assume an XEDE processor ecu is like an emanage or haltech interceptor. Not what i'd call standalone by any means. Interceptors still work within the limitations of the stock ecu and are limited by the accuracy of the stock trigger disc and sensoring. I agree that what you call spark capacity is current derived. The plug is essentially a resistor, where the resistance increases with plug gap and cylinder pressure. The discharging coil discharges voltage from its secondary windings thru its own internal resistance and accross the plug. The larger the gap, the larger the resistance diferential and thus the higher the voltage, but lower the current. As interesting as this is also, its not at all relivent to the ECU. I've yet to see an ECU, factory otherwise directly fire an ignition coil and magically somehow generate more spark energy thru some sort of superior way in charging it for 2-4ms. 99% of aftermarket ecu installations still use the standard coil packs and ignitors so spark energy can only be as good as it was with the factory ecu installed.

have to agree with you there... the brazilian government is likely just as corrupt as the US. If brazil were to be seen to be getting an advantage over the US they'd just have to be evil right? Bombing them would be the only option!

Yes closed loop can be an advantage on a factory map, but they are more designed to maintain correct AFR's for ideal emmissions. Maintaining 14.7:1 allows the cat to correctly clean up the exhaust. Running an aftermarket ecu will allow you to run reliably at 15-15.5:1 afr's and get much better economy on a long drive. Closed loop operation in all ecu's is a correction factor of about 12% on the base map, so it can richen or lean out the mixture by only a small amount. Closed loop is not able to fix a map that is tuned incorrectly by any means.

I'd like you to elaborate on that a lot more on what your trying to say there. Timing control ability, as in at what crank degrees injectors will fire in sequential operation, and at what point ignition will fire is adjustable in wolf and Haltech ecu's. You can also individually retard or advance individual cylinders if required with both ecu's. By spark capacity i assume you mean spark energy? Has nothing to do with the ecu. All three ecu's allow you to adjust on/off times when controlling dumb coil ignitors which does affect spark energy directly. So long as that charge time is configured the same on all ecu's the spark energy will be the same. If you want powerful sparks, upgrade to a CDI system, start looking thru the Excel and MSD catalogues. HKS ignitions all though being well designed specificly for nissans arent the only option. MSD's top of the line race ignitions can produce 70Kv+ at the plug. Regardless of coils, ignitors or CDI systems spark capacity has nothing at all to do with the ECU. I do agree the autronics are one hell of an ecu, and i've personally seen one on a RB25/30 thats cranking out an easy 700hp. Installations on WRX's and EVO's, anti-lag and huge turbo's produce an awesome result. The autronics self learn mode makes it such an easy to tune system, you can very quickly get a good result with them. This has got to be the main advantage of the autronic over all other ecu's, as without self learn you are relying on the tuners ability to tune the ecu manually. The tuner has to understand the dynamics of the engine they are tuning, and this is a big call as a lot of tuners "specialize" in a particular breed or configuration of engine. Stock vs larger or multiple throttle bodies (GTR and others), radical head porting, high lift cams etc all alter how the ecu map will work. If you go back to basics... remove the turbo and just talk about a naturally aspirated V8. Add the correct sized carburator and mechanical/vac distributor and tune it. Then compare that to its injected counterpart and you'll find the performance is virtually identical. Its been proven. The only minor diferences in performance is due the restriction of the venturi and the sometimes poor fuel distribution to the front and rear cylinders that occurs with some manifold designs. Speaking from the perspective of an engines builder that wires and tunes ECU's, is a qualified electronics and has been providing high end IT computer support for about 10 years I can say it all comes down to the individual tune. If the HP produced by any ecu is diferent to another ecu on the same engine it just means the tune isn't correct. By same HP i mean within about 5-10hp, as anyone thats done back to back testing on a dyno will know the results can vary this much without changing any settings at all. Not looking to start a pissing/flaming contest here about one ecu vs another, but i'd really like to hear a logical reason for your comment. Regards, Ian

Sorry the car's in the panel shop at the moment getting a re-spray so I can't take any pics for you. What i've done though is i've cut away about 3-4 inches from the back of the coil cover and then mounted the coils forward of that. The leads then go from the coils to the back of the engine thru the hole that the cut away part exposed, to each spark plug. I've used leads with a 90 degree bend off the end of the coil post so it all looks pretty tidy with the wires bundled together. I'm going to photograph the car inside and out when its back from the panel shop and post up the pictures soon.. hopefully next weekend at the latest.

Well in my case i scored my MSD DIS4 from ebay in the US for $150USD, landed here cost me 230AUD inc freight. To that I added $35 worth of ignition leads and a Haltech 6 coil pack for $235. So for $500 is all up i've got an ignition system that makes the Splitfire coils look like the toys that they are. Wiring is pretty easy. You need to pair the outputs of the coil pack ignitors into their waste spark pairs which are 1-6 2-5 3-4. They connect to the MSD and the MSD then drives the coils. I've relocated the battery to the boot so i can mount the MSD on an alloy panel that fits where the battery used to fit. You CAN leave out the MSD and just fire the coils directly from the ignitor module too. Wiring is the same... This will provide a decent upgrade to the ignition output also, and save you the cost of the MSD.

There's another thought... Should australia import ethanol from brazil where their economy needs it, or over priced oil based petrol from terrorists in the middle east, where they drive silver plated cars and have gold plated toilets? Wow an economical solution that benefits the environment, and a 3rd world country. And its the correct moral choice too! Thats just crazy talk!

The best possible cheap upgrade you'll be able to do is to switch to a 3 coil waste spark system with a MSD DIS4 cdi box. I when I say cheap i mean provided you source your parts from ebay. No its not a bolt on solution by any means, but when installed you can run 1.1mm plug gaps and it blasts out 45kv+ sparks which is easily good for 30lb+ boost. Consider it one step away from the HKS CDI ignition system. It fixes the issue of overheating coil packs too, because they aren't installed in the head anymore.

Large injectors require small pulse widths at low speed operation for the car to have the correct AFR's at idle, and when under low load situations like driving down a slight incline. The problem is that once you get below about 1.4ms the average low impedance injector begins to missfire, making fuel delivery eratic. So there you have a minimum pulse width, and your stuck with it because below that mark the car will miss and backfire from going lean for brief moments. Running the minimum pulse width under all light load circumstances then results in you getting more fuel than you need. From my experience i've had this become a problem around the 600cc mark on 2lt 4 cylinders. I'd imagine its about the 500-550cc mark on a 2-2.5lt 6 cylinder.

I went for a GT25 BB 400 with a 0.64 housing to keep the lag down on my GTS4. The car makes positive manifold pressure in the low 3K mark in the higher gears and is always at full boost by 4200 regardless of which gear i am in at the time. I will soon have installed my anti-lag system which will allow me to spool to 18lb at 3500 rpm for launching and flat gear change shifting with no loss of boost pressure between shifts. I totally agree with the other guys here.. buy the smallest turbo that you can that is capable of making the power you want. Then if its still too laggy when you go racing get anti-lag.

I want to see the government get real about lowering emmissions in australia, and begin to offer a 100% ethanol fuel. Apart from emissions it will save the sugar industry over here as well, allowing australia to "god forbid" possibly become self sufficent for its energy requirements! Ethanol as a perforamnce fuel can be pretty darn impressive too. Sure there are some minor engineering issues to get around, but thats nothing compared to the benefits... Woops.. hijack... sorry.

I use a wolf but to answer the question properly it doesn't really matter what ecu you choose for your car when it comes to making it economical. THAT ALL comes down to the individual tune thats running in the ecu. Mechanical factors that DO affect your economy directly are injector size and camshaft timing. The biggest thing that affects economy is the fact that once you've got your great honkin' turbo, 850cc injectors and 700hp pump etc, you can't help but hold it flat occasionally, cause after all thats why we bought turbo cars! There's been a lot of rumor circulating that once ECU will be more economical than another, or make more power than the other. Fact is, its all bullshit! For any given engine at any given load with the same air temps, boost pressure, injectors etc and lastly injector pulse width, the performance and economy is IDENTICAL. (not factoring in air restrictions caused by MAF sensor style ecu's). As far as choosing an aftermarket ecu goes, get one that you can easily get good local support for and make sure it can be tuned by someone you can trust to make both good power for you without de-tuning or blowing it up. So many tuners tune on the soft side of things so they don't break their customers cars. You NEVER hear about how many Jap tuners break how many engines before they get that magical 400rwkw figure, which is part of the learning process required when pushing for really BIG power figures.

Its not worth bothering with the flame proof paint. The moment you get your exhaust really up to temperature when on boost it will fry off instantly. I actually had problems with my other car and melting the white header wrap. It first started to go brittle, and then started falling apart. Closer inpsection revealed that the glass wrap had melted and I had glass beads in the pattern of the header wrap stuck to my stainless manifold. I've since changed to graphite impregnated wrap from horsepowerinabox and that sorted out the melting issue. Here's a pic of my setup.

Ok i'm keen on the body parts, but which part did you sell? I'll take everything that there is two of, so if you can take another pic and suggest a price? As for freight, if you can wrap it in bubble wrap i'll have TNT collect it from where ever your address is and ship it to me, i'll pay for the freight on my account. Cheers, ian

Hey, Did you seem i was interested in the side skirts, stone guards and also the center console surround trim? Please let me know what you can do... Cheers, Ian

I'm interested in the side skirts and fender guards(the plastic parts that bolt on to the guards to protect the paint behind the wheels). Also, the console surround if its not broken as most of them seem to be Last of all, the rubber seals from the drivers and passenger side doors and body to the glass seals. If you can provide pics as well as a price it would be appreciated. Cheers, Ian

I have forsale one air conditioning compressor in good condition minus the electric clutch on the front of the compressor. The compressor came off a low milage import engine. I bought it off Ebay only for the clutch assembly. The rest of the unit is intact, plugged up and in ready to install condition. Here's a picture... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...item=4617096740 Price: $100 neg (will trade for other R32 parts) Location: Cairns, NQ Freight: About $15-$20 will get it anywhere with australia. Mobile: 0434 147 478 Cheers, Ian

Well regretably i'm broke till thursday next week, so if there still available then consider them sold.

If these are top feed injectors like the earlier RB26's i'm keen. Got any pics?

Not meaning to hijack the thread, but who on the forum is making these things and where's a link?

Group Buy is closed. Thanks to everyone thats involved. I've emailed you all now, but if for some reason you didn't get my email let me know. The order is being placed this Wednesday. Parts arrive in 6-14 days. Cheers, Ian Swinkels.

Are these GTR or GTST skirts? Can you post a picture, or a pic of them installed on a car? Cheers, Ian

Well count me in too provided you get favorable information back about GTS4 compatibility. Cheers, Ian