GTRNUR

How do you check for exhaust in the radiator? I'm having the same problem. It appears the car gets hotter at night than it does during the day which is even wierder? Or it might be that I aren't driving it as hard during the day possibly... I'm actually thinking water pump now, as i'm not sure it was replaced at the 100,000k mark.

Play nice guys.. Thanks for the info though. I figured it would be close on 17-18 degrees. I'll let you know how i go at the dyno day tomorrow. Cheers, Ian

Will do! Dyno day is this Sunday, and i'll be street tuning tomorrow night. I guess i'll just have to keep a soft tune till I get a knock sensor system.

Thanks for the advice... I was going to do most of that anyway. The lack of a knock sensor system is my main problem. I have to hook up my oil pressure gauge too. Any idea where I plumb that into an RB20 engine? I've tried a search on the forum but the search engine doesn't like me

Afraid not... your Wolf ecu was a plug in and used a custom program for using the factory triggering disc in the cam sensor that doesn't exist in the Wolf V4 plus ecu's. My ecu is a wire in model, and I used an RB25 dual pulse trigger disc. I intially ran splitfire coils but had problems with them misfiring over 12lb, so i've switched to 3 haltech dual post coils and am running waste spark. I've got an MSD Dis 4 on the way to boost the spark energy and provide me with anti-lag and flat shift also. I have yet to look at the ignition map from it though, thanks for the reminder! Cheers, Ian

Stock compression, stock cams, BP ultimate, stock head, 35-38 degree intake temps. I've also got an 040 pump and am running 38 psi rail pressure, but will probably increase this to 50 to get a little more flow accross the injectors.

I'm doing the high end boost tune on my RB20DET tomorrow. The cars running a front mount intercooler, and 460cc injectors, Wolf ECU, and Garrett GT25 BB 400hp turbo. I'm aiming for 18lb for the first top end tune. I expect i'll be runnign about 18-20 degrees advance at that boost level. I've currently got it soft at 15 degrees and there is no detonation and my AFR is 11.8:1 at full boost. Does anyone have any ignition maps they might share with me to give me an idea of how far I can take the ignition? Cheers, Ian

Cool, I think I can get that to happen if I have the ecu installed temporarly in another R32. And I think I know someone with the cable too. Thanks for the idea. Cheers, Ian

The ecu isn't able to detect if a cylinder is down or not and even if it could there is nothing it could do to sort out the problem. Don't rule out that you may have more than one faulty coil, and the coil fault can be intermittent too, so spend a bit of time testing each coil. If your confident that you've eliminated the possability of faulty coil packs your onto checking out cylinder leak down and blow by. When you've got the plugs out check the plug gaps also. 0.7mm is whats recommended. There is a thread called spark plugs in the forced induction section thats worth a read too. Sorry i didn't mean to be condercending before either, its just your previous comment "So igniter pack/Coil pack are the same thing???" had me wondering if you'd be better off taking the car to a professional. Keep trying, nissans aren't that complicated. You'll nut it out in the end. Cheers, Ian

So what your saying is that when you checked your coil packs you un-plugged the connector from the top of each coil and didn't notice ANY diference in how the engine ran? Sorry I doubt it. Here's the procedure in detail. 1. Remove the 4 screws that hold the ignitor module to the valve coil cover plate (the black plate on the rocker cover). Move the ignitor module to the side but leave it connected. 2. Ynbolt the hose clamps that hold the cross pipe in place and remove the two 10mm bolts. Remove the pipe. Then remove the 8 allen head bolts that hold the black plate on and finally remove the plate that covers the coil packs. 3. Put the cross pipe back in, reconnect all hoses and tighten clamps again. 4. Start the car. You said it gets worse as it warms up, so let it run till its running absolutely crap! 5. Press the release button on each coil pack clip and remove the plug from each of the 6 coil packs. If the engine runs even worse with the plug removed or stalls all together, then that coil pack is GOOD. If it doesn't run any worse with the plug removed, well the only possability is that that coil pack is dead. Chances of the ignitor causing the problem is next to 0. If it starts its not dead. Disconnecting the oxygen sensor will make no diference to the car running at idle. For that matter you can even disconnect the MAF sensor and the ecu will run in limp home mode, but should still run ok, or at least well enough to do the test for the coil packs. See how you go with that. Good luck! Ian

No the ignitor is a square shaped thing bolted with 4 bolts to the top of the rocker cover center plate next to the firewall. Definatly sounds like coils.

you need to unbolt the ignitor module and remove the 8 allen head bolts that hold the center plate on the rocker cover. That exposes the coils. Follow teh above mentioned method of removing each plug from the coil once its started to miss and that will help you isolate the dead coil pack. Someone is selling coil packs cheap on ebay at the moment too so there's a quick way around your problem... Cheers, Ian

I've got a Blitz access ecu that I need to find out what size injectors it was supposed to operate with. It was running on an RB20DET with stock MAF, 3" HKS exhaust and stock intercooler. Its labeled as follows: ACCESS Super computer access Powered by Blitz and : Access Computer PC-23710T 44978 Blitz co ltd Cheers, Ian

How exactly are you testing your vacuum lines are all connected properly? There is quite a few there to check. The best place to check them is right next to the throttle body where they join onto the hard line that follows the cross pipe around past the turbo and toward the airbox. Start the car and then kink each hose with a pair of plyers (gently) and see if there is a diference. You may have also left a hose clamp un-done when putting it all back together previously too, so check they are all tight. The only other thing I can think of has already been suggested... thats to check the MAF sensor. Its worth giving it a clean to be on the safe side too. There is a cleaning proceedure here somewhere on the forum... try a search.

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Hi Everyone, Where are the boxes that control the ABS, AWS and altesa AWD? Is any of this handled by the main ECU that is inside the left pilar? I did read another post in this section that says I can retain my altessa provided I keep the TPS and tacho signals connected and the tps output to 0.04V which is easy enough. I want to make sure that I don't loose ABS or AWS though when I finish my installation of my wolf 4 plus ecu this weekend. Cheers, Ian

Here we go again.... so you've done a search for all posts done by me and put in your 2 cents worth... Congratulations! :lol: Now please come over to my house and kick my ass! I'll be home in a 1/2 hour.

So either cork then, or I could just leave it out or maybe make one from a cardboard box. You know VW's don't use a head gasket. The barell and head are machined flat and then you use ultra fine valve grinding paste to finish the blend. Of course you don't get a good barrel to head seal until the engine is up to temperature too. So the concensis is metal all the way, and I should not be a cheap ass and go straight for a nismo one to guarantee long term reliability. Thanks guys, Ian.

Dam! Though the exhaust shop said it was a 5 hour job if they were going to remove the header, turbo etc. I'll do all that myself and give them the car ready to work on so it will hopefully only take an hour tops to replace all the studs. I'll let you know how it goes... CHeers, Ian

Well got it sorted. Going to pull the manifold off tonight and have the a local exhaust shop remove all the studs and replace them with decent high tensile ones. To the rest of the SAU members.. sorry for this. Wazz you complete and utter idiot! When are you going to come good on your threats and come and kick my ass! I'm waiting and have been waiting since your "threatening emails" :lol: and frankly i'm bored! I really hope you try because I've been keeping my rage under control and have been needing someone to vent on. You really have no idea who your dealing with. After I leave you a bloddy and broken mess i'll take the $50 from you wallet that you still owe Warren. And because of your emails and your previous history I can do all this in the name of self defence! Attention Moderators: This idiot called Warick is a known menace and I'm sure he has made is presance felt in the past on this forum. We have had to block him fromt he QLD Street Scene forum becuase he kept using abusive language and ignoring moderators requests to act like an adult. Feel free to give him a red card or block him. Cheers, Ian

I'd be interested in the head if you'd un bolt it for me and freight it to Cairns. I'd pay for the entire engine of course and you can still flog the rest or dump it. What do you think? Oh crap! its an old post.... bet its long gone... Ian

Hi everyone, When checking out where the exhaust bolts are that I need to unbolt to change to my new high mount header I noticed that one of the studs was loose. So I tried to tighten it with my fingers but the dam thing came out in my hand. I figure someone had use a breaker bar to do up the head studs and had broken the stud off in the head. Its the most rear located stud of them all. I might be able to get a drill in there if I remove the ABS gizmo, but even then its going to be a tight fit. So my latest question is.... should I just buy a head gasket and take the head off to fix this stud issue? or should I try and fix it in the car and risk drilling the stud(possibly off center because you cant see it properly. I am about to bolt on a GT25 BB 400 turbo and intended on running 20-22lb boost so the head gasket is probably good insurance right? Thus my previous question about the head gaskets... Any suggestions or advice...? Cheers, Ian.

I guess my application is street high boost, some drag. No drift (thus no constant high revs. The car is a GTS4.

Just sound out to get peoples opinions and experiences based on diferent head gasket options.... Let me know your thoughts. Cheers, Ian

Awesome Russel. I'm at a dead end tryign to work out the sync and slotted triggers for each cylinder. Cheers, Ian