GTRNUR

You could try and clean it up with some soapy steel wool, and then go at it with a propane torch to make it go pretty colours. Some people go for that sort of thing. The fact its titanium is usually enough for me though.

Thanks Eric, that's what I wanted to hear. So long as I am not pioneering it, I'm going to give it a try as well. That speed hunters car is exactly what I want to avoid. Looks like crap! And frankly to hell with keeping coils cool. Completely unnecessary when the igniter isn't built into the coil. The coils are sealed in high temp resin and are designed to get hot. Do you know if you ran your coils in parallel or series? I figure they would have to be in parallel to eliminate any resonate ringing effects between the coils as they discharge. Such a thing could potentially cause a false ignition spark in the partner coil. Not that it should matter with a waste spark arrangement.

I've been thinking of a way to put together a discrete, yet powerful ignition system for an RB. Yes there are plenty of other conversions out there using GM/LS1 coil packs, but all look like a dogs breakfast due to the wiring alterations. I'd like to keep it all looking tidy and incognito. So I figured, what about boosting the output from a standard series 1 style coil pack with a decent 6 channel CDI amplifier. While not having the highest output voltage, the Splitfire coil packs are known for being reliable. I figure a set of Series 1 style (R32/R33 style) coils, and an AEM 8 channel CDI would make for an interesting combination. The AEM CDI puts 540v on the coil primaries, and fires with multi-spark below 3000 rpm and twin spark after that. The input triggering can be set to low or high, so it will suit any ECU as well. If anyone has tried anything like this and would like to share it would be appreciated. Cheers!

Sorry no dyno time yet. The Haltech is in now. It idles and revs. Didn't get a chance to drive it anywhere though, nor do anything but do the basic setup on the weekend. With any luck I can take a day or two off later this week and spend some time on the phone with Mitch. AI tell me my surge tank is still 2+ weeks away as well.

Hmm probably because I posted it wrong. I'll try again. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAmQOHNEZvM

Not necessary, it just connects to Inj1. The MFD does the rest. If you were able to program up an 7th injector channel, it would need to be configured to have the same output pulse width as all the other injectors. Also, you would need to put a load on the output, or a pull up resistor to +12v so the MFD would be able to read the variable PWM square wave.

I believe its just the switch output from injector 1. From this the MFD can calculate rpm and duty.

May take you up on that Mitch. Base on the youtube vids I've seen and the documentation it looks pretty straight forward. I'm just making up the external map and wideband interface looms now. I can't imagine Haltech would have left any surprises for me. Out of the box it should control the fuel pump speed and send the correct TPS signals to the Attessa right? Ive seen lots of other people have issues with these two simple things... Edit: Other ecu's of course... Wolf/vipec etc...

Yeah... It has been ok for a beginning, but its too long in the tooth now. Just got a call from the office and my Haltech has arrived already. Ordered lunchtime yesterday... So I know what Im going to try and get done this weekend...

I didnt mean interpolation while under acceleration, I mean when maintaining a steady speed and the load cell is interpolated from multiple cells. Im running 45psi base pressure on the ID1000's. Duty cycle at idle < 2 percent on the MFD.

Ive put a few more thousand km are on the engine as I've been driving it every day for work lately. Surge tank/pump is still on back order so Ive decided to upgrade the ECU as well now, and ordered a Haltech Platinum yesterday. The power FC is giving me grief with the resolution of tuning being too low. Here's a quick video I took today of a walk around the car. At a glance you can see my new closed breather setup which drains back to the sump, and the revised cooling setup with the second version of my 70mm PWR twin pass radiator plus the oil to water heat exchanger. This is the trust Ti-R 90mm exhaust with the apexi 115mm silencer in the tip too. It quite effectively turns a track exhaust into something close to legal and streetable. https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=OAmQOHNEZvM

There is one other downside to the bigger injectors. Transitions from one load cell to the next when the delivered fuel amount is interpolated produce a more inaccurate fuel delivery. I see this in the low end of the RPM scale with my setup especially. My engine idles at 2.07ms with a 14.7 afr. At cruise in 6th gear/60km/h the injector pulse is only around 2.34ms, again at 14.7 afr. When the ecu load point moves from a single cell across 4 and the MS value is interpolated, I inevitably end up with a value into the low 14's when running open loop. Closed loop mode resolves this a little but its far from perfect, and granted my old Power FC djetro is the other issue due to its low load point cell resolution.

Yes. The point being that there isnt any downside to using the larger ID injectors. Aftermarket Industries stock a new 1650cc bosch injector that is worth a look too. Direct plug-in connector compatability with the RB26 loom, so no cut/solder job. http://www.aftermarketindustries.com.au/injectors-c49/bosch-1650-p206/

I'm trying to find a few pictures of under car surge tank install on R34 GTR's. Anyone with pictures of such a setup can you please post them up? Im not having much luck with the search. Cheers, Ian

Its got a tough cam'd idle at around 1000 rpm, but its possible to tune that out if I run a richer idle, and have it idle at 900 quite smoothly. I have a trust TI-R 90mm exhaust on the car which is basically straight through, but I also have an Apexi active silencer in the tip of the muffler to quieten it down a little for when I am driving through the city. The difference that it makes is that you can have a conversation with your passenger. Downside is that it adds 800 RPM of lag, so it makes full boost at 4000 rpm now, not 3300-3400ish. I've been meaning to buy a go pro or even a basic dash cam... Maybe I'll get the urge to do so this weekend.

I moved back into my house again 2 weeks go, and have been able to work on the car again a little more regularly. I have been driving it regularly when possible. There is now over 4000km on the engine. The wastegates now have 1.4 bar springs in them, and I have been adjusting the street tune to a 100 octane blend. This has made the car too quick to tune on the street for high boost levels. The data logging rate can't keep up with acceleration, so its defiantly dyno time to finish that. I recently replaced all the suspension in the car with a Tein EDFS Active setup, ditching the Nismo Stunes that were in the car. Its so much more comfortable to drive, and it doesn't try and change lanes now as it comes onto boost in the lower gears anymore. Way more planted. The hold up now is that I'm waiting on an under car surge tank setup. I decided to go with a new Aftermarket Industries design under car surge tank with Holly 1400 pump setup. Its going to be 4-5 weeks till it arrives so I am told. The base machining of two more engine blocks is now finished. I hope to have them in the CNC mill in a month or two, and then will be looking to put the blocks in the hands of some tuners down Sydney/Melbourne way to see what they can do with them.

I'd be expecting your new setup to be at wastegate regulated boost by 3500 at the latest. Also the bigger displacement will have it making positive manifold pressure below 2000, so it will feel like a large naturally aspirated engine below 4000 with a very smooth power delivery curve. This is basically what I see with the 900hp 6466 precision on a 3.4lt. I'd stay clear of E85 for the moment and see how you like it with 98 octane instead.

The best solution you have is to use a catch 3 hose catch can (each cam cover, and the intake), and a return to sump via the -10 RIPS sump return. Hi Octane have the catch can you need to complete this setup. Not cheap though. The return to sump via the 2nd turbo return on an RB26 block works great too. Nismo pioneered this of course. You can improve on it by drawing the intake connection through a second catch can and then to the intake. Useful if you are really trying to isolate all moisture from your crank case fumes.

The only exhaust scavenge setups I have seen work are on race cars that run no mufflers. The moment you have a post-turbo restriction of any kind, you end up with a higher than atmospheric pressure inside your exhaust (after the turbo). Remember you are trying to produce a vacuum, not just aid flow from what is already a high exhaust pressure (such as venturi style wastegate scavenging). Using a 2 stage catch can setup that draws from a venturi on your Intake just before your turbo will produce a vacuum in the engine. Your first catch can had better return to sump though, or your vacuumed up oil vapour will quickly make a mess on the inside of your intake piping.

Both options will produce an extremely lively setup with your supporting modifications and turbo choice. If you did want more power down the track though and do end up changing the turbo, more displacement is your friend so go with the BC 2.9 kit. As far as quality goes, I have yet to see a Tomei part that I wasn't happy with. My current engine uses Tomei parts for everything. The only thing I noticed during assembly is that their factory shimming of the cams was on the loose side of their stated specifications.

R34 GTR steering wheel. It is not mint, but it is very close too it. I had to look around for a while to find a wheel that was as un-blemished as this one. There are a few marks (see pics) but they are barely noticeable. The middle horn plate insulator is a little worn too, so using the insulator from your current wheel would be advised. I'm told the wheel will fit an R33 GTR as well. $500 + postage Sard 700cc injectors, and R34 GTR Fuel Rail. They have about 30,000km on them and would only need new seals to be re-installed and used. $450 + postage. Greddy/Grex oil filter relocate + thermostat New, never installed. $190 + postage Items are located in Cairns, QLD, 4870. Will post anywhere. Ph: 0434 147 478 Cheers, Ian

It won't be the gasket that caused the initial leak of combustion gasses into the cooling system. The combination of cylinder pressure and not enough clamping pressure on the head studs will have been the initial issue. Just be prepared for the possibility that you may have already burnt the seal ring on the head gasket, and it may never seal regardless of how much clamp pressure you manage to crank it down with the ARP's.

I used a butane gas torch, the kind you can silver solder with. Expect to burn some paint, but that's about all that will soften the factory double sided mounting tape enough to allow you to remove the plate without damaging it at all.

I'm having a day off work today to install some of the parts I've been collecting over the past few months. Another new PWR radiator (first one had clearance/fitment issues). Set of ID1000's and a new fuel system and more Tomei parts (no e85 up here, so i'll be using a 110 octane race fuel for final power runs) DBA5000 rotors and new pads Updated catch can arrangement (fully enclosed and relocated so I can add a new oil cooler system) Relocated power steering tank. Water-oil heat exchanger Its also approaching end of financial year so I've got a mountain of paperwork to catch up on. The good news is that I am preparing to have 2 more blocks machined up, which I am planning on putting in the hands of some tuning companies down south that are interested in developing / distributing the product. I am just sourcing the composite materials that I use to partially fill the block with at the moment, and then next month it will be off to the machine shop with it all. Renovations are going well though too! Nearly all finished, except that no rooms have doors yet.

Pete, your main focus should be on putting the right work into the 3.2lt core. Everything else that is a bolt on can be changed after the engine is installed easily, so save your pennies for the moment in that regard. You will also find the results of back-back testing your old hardware on new engine very interesting (as will everyone else). So, get the bottom end built correctly. Port your head, and get some oversize valves in it with some decent springs. It is wise to decide on the camshaft choice at this stage too, as its a lot easier to shim the cam on the bench than on an engine in a car. Especially given the height increase of an RB30, getting the cam covers off can be a bitch. I really recommend keeping your 6266 on the 3.2lt. If you find its too responsive you can always change that easily later, or just learn to adjust your driving habits. I think you will find it to be exactly what your after though. It will be making light boost below 2000 rpm, and be fully on by around 3200-3400 rpm. It will essentially drive like a 7lt V8. Power drop off in top end will not be an issue if your head is properly ported to match the setup. This is essentially what I see with the 6466 on the 3.4lt. At any revs over 3000 rpm its a monster.