GTRNUR

Pete, your main focus should be on putting the right work into the 3.2lt core. Everything else that is a bolt on can be changed after the engine is installed easily, so save your pennies for the moment in that regard. You will also find the results of back-back testing your old hardware on new engine very interesting (as will everyone else). So, get the bottom end built correctly. Port your head, and get some oversize valves in it with some decent springs. It is wise to decide on the camshaft choice at this stage too, as its a lot easier to shim the cam on the bench than on an engine in a car. Especially given the height increase of an RB30, getting the cam covers off can be a bitch. I really recommend keeping your 6266 on the 3.2lt. If you find its too responsive you can always change that easily later, or just learn to adjust your driving habits. I think you will find it to be exactly what your after though. It will be making light boost below 2000 rpm, and be fully on by around 3200-3400 rpm. It will essentially drive like a 7lt V8. Power drop off in top end will not be an issue if your head is properly ported to match the setup. This is essentially what I see with the 6466 on the 3.4lt. At any revs over 3000 rpm its a monster.

This is all correct! BC probably run a ring pack closer to the gudgeon, and may use a steel support ring to allow the oil ring to be over the top of the gudgeon hole. It makes it possible to run longer rods/strokes, and still have a thick piston crown. The Nitto/je 89mm pistons in my RB34 use this design. There is pictures in my build thread. I'm with Paul regarding longevity as well. Really how many people out there run over 400kw and don't expect to do a pull down/inspect at 50,000km. Its worth doing to protect your investment for the sake of maybe $2-3K. There are just as many advantages for the short rod motor as there are disadvantages. Ie, lower rotating mass, better cylinder filling at all engine speeds. Ive seen the rod ratio debate so many times Ive lost count. From my experience howerver, having originally started out modifying VW engines which have 2:1 rod ratio and being worried about dropping it back to 1.65 on strokers I can honestly say this. Displacement is worth the "percieved" longevity reduction every time. Having huge power under the pedal only wears out your engine when your using it all the time, so in race applications as Duncan says it can definatly be an issue. However, in a street car it is far less of an issue. Especially when most of your driving in a stroked engine is done below 5000 rpm on the street (while still being quicker than just about everything else on the road).

I disagree. A PT6262 on a 3.2 will drive like a monster in low end, and still produce a good final power figure easily. Set up a 3.2 with a 9:1 compression ratio. Port you head and keep your B Poncams. You'll be surprised just how good it will perform on low end. If the budget permits the get some more lift like Paul suggests. The larger you go in displacement, the angrier the cam you can get away with in a street car.

Sold and Shipped!

PM replied. Also, I forgot to mention that its for an R33/R34 GTR.

No they don't come with the item from Hi Octane either, nor do they normally come with filters. I'm throwing the filters in only.

I'm changing my setup again so the Hi Octane Racing catch can has to go to make room. Used for about 16 hours at most the street for about. Its never had a drop of oil in it. Located in Cairns, will freight anywhere. These cost $650 new without filters. I'll accept offers around $350. Cheers, Ian Ph: 0434 147 470

The run-in is now completed and I did the oil change last weekend. I haven't done a full power tune yet as there are a few support modifications I need to sort out first. I have changed my old single core radiator out for a custom PWR twin pass with a spal thermo as well, which seems to work very well in the tropics. I also fitted an Apexi active exhaust silencer which does well to tame the exhaust note. I can talk to my passengers now, except for when the gates are open! Tune wise, I have the low boost/low end to about 5000 rpm pretty much sorted. That's about all I'm game to do on the street though. I have to do a few fuel and ignition system changes before I book dyno time. My day to day work and finishing home renovations has taken priority lately though. It will probably be a couple more months till I have some actual results.

That's something that comes with experience. You turn off the boost controller and watch your AFR meter closely and get off the throttle if you see it go lean past 12.5 or rich past 10.5. Once you profile a low boost fuel curve you can extrapolate the curve in top end from there. The base maps for PFC's L jetros are very close, so you can start with a low boost setting and tune from a data logger just fine. Just watch your AFR's and knock very closely and be read to get off the throttle when you see it going the wrong way.

There is no point in sharing anything other than a base/startup map really. All engines vary so widely with their fueling requirements from one to the next. Subtle differences in cam timing and turbo configurations can me that what is perfect for one engine will also be massively rich and lean when loaded into another engine of similar power levels. There are just too many variables.

The correct idle speed for an RB26 is 900 RPM with an ignition advance of 20 degrees. The PFC locks this ignition timing at idle, so the base map ignition values are not even used. Correct procedure to set idle would be: 1.Set your ignition timing to 20 degrees at idle by using a timing light at 900 rpm. (You may need to do this multiple times during the process if your idle speed is high, as the ecu will use MAP values instead of idle lock values.) 2. With the car warmed up, adjust the air bleed under the throttle plenum so that the flat top adjustment screw is flat with the top of its casting. (starting point) 3. Loosen the lock nut on the throttle stop. Start the car and wind the throttle stop counter clockwise to close the throttles and reduce the idle speed. 4. If you achieve close to 900 RPM using this method then great but it doesn't have to be perfect. A little higher than 900 is ok. If your throttle stop screw is no longer stopping the throttle, then you have either a vacuum leak, or someone has cleaned the throttle seal spray off your throttle valves. 5. So its idling at 925-950 RPM now. Lock the throttle stop nut. 6. Loosen the two bolts that hold the TPS sensor on the throttle assembly. Adjust the position of the sensor so that you are seeing 0.45 volts on the TPS Signal. Use the commander or FC Edit to read these values from the ECU. Then tighten them up again. 7. Re-check your 20 degrees ignition with the timing light, and adjust the idle speed air bleed under the plenum to achieve 900 RPM. This is a hot idle speed adjustment. With this done, the ECU then needs to have its Idle speed AUTO Learn procedure done so that it can correctly control the PWM air bleed valve to allow the engine to fast idle when cold, and to correctly control the air speed under electrical loads and air conditioning loads. This is also the basic method to get things close. If your engine is idling so badly, you may also need to adjust the base fuel map settings while reducing the idle speed. You can get it very close by ear if you don't have a wideband AFR meter. Aim for 14.2-14.7:1 if you have a wideband meter. Otherwise, if the engine begins to falter, add fuel at a small rate for the idle cells until it stabilises. Once the idle speed is stable (but not perfect, step 6 above), you can slowly remove fuel from the idle cells until you hear/see a drop in engine RPM. This is the engine going from stoich to lean. Add a tiny bit more fuel to stabilise again, and this is your sweet spot.

PM me your name and I'll add you.

Get on facebook and ask to join "Cairns Skyline Club". We organised the last cruise from there.

There is HKS actuator mounts only, I'm not selling actuators. I've got one spare good HKS 1.2bar actuator and one dud one that I can throw in though. The dud one doesn't leak, but its also not opening at the same rate as the other. Increasing the price Precision gate to $400.

More pics of the Nismo intake. The cracks are very minor, and the other photo is of some blemishes from the bonnet sound deadening matt rubbing on it.

I don't have a Nismo front bar, its on my wish list for potential trade items.

DOC Race Stainless steel open scroll single gate manifold to suit an RB25 or RB26 head. Vband gate attachment. $1200 Precision 46mm Vband wastegate. Very nice quality, comparable to the Turbosmart gates. $350 Nismo R-tune Air Cleaner Duct / R34 GTR - carbon fibre intake snorkel Black gel coat has some minor cracks but otherwise its fine. $300 R34 GTR Rear interior panels. Both have scratches, and the drivers side scratches are pretty deep. Clips are perfect. $50 for the pair. R34 GTR genuine steering wheel. Has a lot of marks from rings and finger nails, so it would suit someone that can get it re-trimmed or rebuild with nice carbon fibre inserts. $400 R34 GTR Centre air conditioner vent (small crack as you can see in the picture, but is functional). Good for parts. $30 HKS Low mount turbo actuators $20 the pair Vipec 3 bar MAP sensor $15 Prices are negotiable, and will consider trades for other parts. Parts on my watch list as follows: A good matched set of 11mm 1000cc injectors (ID1000 or ID2000 or other but must have data sheet) Nismo R34 GTR fuel pump Nismo STune Front Bar Nismo Ztune front fenders Nismo Side skirts Tomei fuel pressure regulator with all the -6 fittings New set of Nismo floor mats All parts are located in Cairns and I will post anywhere at your expense. PM me if you have any questions.

Nobody has stock at the moment. RHD Japan just gave me a refund as the waiting period for this item is now 31/5/2014. Im not that keen to wait that long.

Can you post a pic? Ive not seen the Greddy radiator hose swirl pot. This is what im after: ARC http://feastautogroupparts.wordpress.com/2012/10/23/cooling-system-support-arc-swirl-pot-koyo-radiator/ or Billion: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Billion-Swirl-Pot-Universal-BIL-BR-SP21S-/151206154517

I'm after a Billion or ARC swirl pot. The one that connects in between the engine and the radiator in the top radiator hose.

I'll have this in a heart beat if you have a means to box the bar up for me? I can arrange TNT to collect from your door if that's ok?

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e070_cam_RB26.html The 270 duration cams only exist in the 10.25 and bigger procams.

If Exeedy can't supply a centre hub for your clutch to match your input shaft, they may be able to provide you with something that will be close. Ie, sharing the same number of splines, but a fraction too small for the shaft. Given to a machine shop with a CNC EDM wire cutter, they could quickly re-cut the spline to suit your requirements. I've heard similar good reports about the NPC carbon clutches too. Streetable etc. There was a guy up here with an 800ish hp R34 that used an NPC clutch to allow the holinger box to link up properly. My exeedy carbon D twin is taking some getting used too. It tends to slip when its cold, but get it hot just once and it holds really well. It would be interesting to know if the NPC's also have to be up to temperature to get them to hold.

Nearly run in ! 909Km on the engine now. Just about to order a radiator upgrade too. A custom twin pass cross flow PWR radiator, so i'll be ready when the time comes to do the power tuning.

I drive past there every day, but have never seen a GTR in there. Plenty of GTS-T's and Supra's though. I don't know who I'd go to up here to do GTR work if I wasn't doing it all myself...