Ultimategtr

f**king retards. Go f**k yourselves. Im not comin on here anymore.. f**k YOU MOTHERf**kERS.

Shut the f**k up mafia.

Correct.. which I do. Thanks heaps for the input so far guys. I will chuck on another bov this week and see how it goes.

Cheers mate for the suggestions. I understand people are trying to help, but its some dim witted people and their responses which usually derail a thread. Exhaust is a 3.5 Tomei Dump, Front, and a full 3.5~ inch catback with a 5inch tip, so the exhaust isnt restricting flow at all. Using an R32 actuator(10psi). Cant remember the specs of the turbo wheels. Doh - the rubber hose MIGHT just be the issue too.. I already have a alloy metal intake pipe sitting at home. The story is - I havent put it on, as I will need to remove the recirc piping, which is connected to the top of cam covers, and for that hose to come off, I will need a catch can. I will change the bov and install the metal pipe this weekend, and will get a catch can too, that should fix it.

At what point do I seem ignorant? I'm sorry if seem ignorant, but I was just stating what I was experiencing. I dont appreciate being called a fool, so careful with your words mate.

I see what you mean. Im saying that it didnt happen before. I had it tuned in January, and it didnt do this before. I got the tuner to test drive it as well and he said no issues at all. Ah well, I'm going to start by the cheapest option - Replacing a turbo isnt that cheap, lol, but hey, you might be right..only one way to find out eh? Cheers for you guys help so far!!

I dont see how the turbo might be the issue. Actually, I dont believe that for a second, however thanks for pointing that out. If it was the turbo, it would have been obvious on the dyno, when it was being tuned. This started a few weeks after that really. I turned the boost down to 14, and it was better, but still happened, not as bad as before. I will hunt for a replacement bov. Thanks!!

Turbo is surging.. please explain?

Thanks Kiwi! I just might take you up on that offer, for the one. Give me a week to have a play around. I'll see if I can borrow my mates to test. My turbo is rated @ 300kw, and is a hybrid by steve murch. Im using a Gizzmo MS-IBC. I did use the onboard link boost control, but I decided to switch back to the gizzmo as I had probs with boost(was caused by the actuator not opening). I do plan to go back to the Link Boost control though, will need to get soichi to set it up, needs another dyno run though. My bov currently is recirculated back - mainly because I will need a catch can, which is something I havent bought yet, if that makes sense. I have checked ALL the vac hosing, its fully tight.

Hi All, I dont drive my car often, maybe once a week, if that, and its only short runs. Today I noticed a much more flutter sound on high boost. On Low, 10psi, hi 16psi. Car's been tuned with a Link G4 for up to 18psi but I've decided to run around 16. Usually, while on high boost, I would notice a slight flutter.. to me, it sounded like a leaky bov. Today, I drove it and it was MUCH louder.. to the point that my boost gauge was jumping between 15-18psi when under load(WOT). My question is - HOW do you tell if your BOV is leaking? is there any telltale signs?? The stocker is always open at Idle, and under boost, it is shut by the boost.. so I dont see how it is leaking. I dont think its my boost controller/spike/creep, but I have turned the boost down(pointless though). I want it to hold 16psi solid. Any help would be muchly appreciated

Not much on the stock injectors. Around 230kw on the stock injectors before they dip into the danger zone.

Traction button? Nah, I have the MS-IBC, with only 2 buttons. I need up grade my tires now, lol.

No, not a stock turbo. Using a 10psi R32 actuator. Issue seems to be resolved. I tried open loop - no go. Increased the Gain to 35. Will fine tune it later on, but it seems to be okay and holds 15psi through 1,2,3rd(Couldnt go higher as traction/public roads). Have my DC set to 55. Car is tuned to 1.1 bar, but thought Id set it to 15psi instead of 17. With high boost I need to upshift very quickly as it gets to the limiter in a hurry, lol.

Hmm.. havent tried open loop. Guess I could try that out, thanks! Hmm, I did have gain up as well. I will go for a drive and test upping the gain to around the same as DC. If that doesnt work, I'll try open loop mode. What a weird issue eh? Thanks for the help so far guys.

Hey, I decided to hook up the ebc after a long time(was using link boost control instead). Setting 1 set to 10 psi - DC - 20, Gain - 0 Setting 2 set to 17 psi - DC - 55, Gain - 0 Spike protection set to 0 - Running in closed loop. Not using Overboost etc or any other features that I know of. Problem - High boost will drop to 10psi or so in higher gears. Eg, Take off in 1st - 17psi.. 2nd, 3rd on wards I only see 10~psi. What am I doing wrong? btw, not a factory turbo and setup. I'll go for another drive today to confirm the above, but from my drive the other day that's what I noticed.

Ask about the specifics, receipts etc. I bet it has a journal bearing core - nothing wrong with it though. If you can prove it really is a high flow, then offer him around 650.

So...ended up the bracket indeed was restricting the flapper.. Agreed that the flapper will not open 90 degree..but it fixed my prob.. It holds 10 psi through to around 6k in 2nd..which is how far I took it..before it would creep up to around 16 psi at the same rev. Also put on an r32 actuator and now it's a different car. 1st gear is useless now.. 2nd breaks traction too but not as bad. Lol. Feels like it's making way more power now. Now to fit my ebc..and get a retune to hit 300 hopefully...tune was made very rich due to creep.

Cheers for the replies so far guys. Appreciate the quick ones. The turbo has ALWAYS crept up. Even when I was running the stock ecu, it would creep up from 7psi through to 15psi. Now its making 275kw @ 18psi with creep. Its not the factory turbo btw, its a heavily moddified factory turbo running ht18 core with bigger wheels etc etc. I can see the flapper hitting the backing plate. I have a feeling its restricting it.. I'll take it off, but 1 of the bolts is an allen key bolt with not much space for me to crack it open.. grr.

I thought I would replace my 7psi actuator with a 10psi r32 one.. BUT.. look what I found when I took the heat shield off.. Could someone PLEASE confirm whether the flapper opens by this amount below, or is it being restricted by the heat sheild backing plate? Video Closed? Open? backing plate for Heat shield Thanks

Maybe, the guy that did my turbo has never had to to dremmel the port out, so maybe it is the w/g actuator, but Ill see I guess this weekend.

I can get that done no worries. Im assuming that at around 5k, the exh gases are causing the flapper to close due to the weak 7psi spring. Its so frustrating on the road, it feels like driving a big laggy turbo, lol.

Hi, Did some search and decided to revive this thread. I am having boost creep. Its a hybrid R33 turbo with HT18 exhaust setup and bored out comp housing etc. On the dyno it was creeping badly just off the w/g actuator, from say 8psi through to 18psi(very bad eh). The tuner used the Link G4 Boost controller to settle it around 16psi max creep. I currently am using the stock actuator - 7psi. I realised that might be the issue? Trying to get a solid 16psi. On the dyno she made 275kw @ 17-18psi, but that was with the creep. On the road its like this - 2nd gear.. I get 7psi instantly, but it starts to creep around 5k. All I want is a solid 16psi roughly from 3500-4000rpm. I have a feeling it may be the actuator thats the problem though. I'm picking up an R32 actuator this sunday to see whether that helps(10psi). Any thoughts in my situation?

Id trade my super hot sexy wife for one of those!

Thats what I have done, been running fine for over 3 years. You just have to be careful of how much you drill into the banjo, as it doesnt like too much or too little oil, esp if its journal bearing.

Words simply cannot be used to express how great this is! I got goosebumps when I saw that pic above ^ in the engine bay, looks stock! I dont think theres anything on the roads that will be able to match or come close to it!