Ultimategtr

yep they fit onto the stocker rb25 turbo no sweat.. i was tossing up between that or the r32 one.. im goin to go for the r32 one instead, cheaper and gives you 10psi.

hah, i just happened to have the workshop manual open at this time and skimming through it states that the voltages should be between 1-1.5v.. so does that mean the first one is out?

So i did my own testing of my factory coil packs, and contrary to the manual, and many websites, i got readings of 1.8-2.0 on my multi-meter. Am i doing something wrong? This is how i did it: The manual states to measure resistance between pins 1 and 2. So i set the multi meter to OHM - 200k. I measured the 2 pins and got 1.6-2.0 between all 6 coils. There are 3 pins, which read like this: (this is when you hold the coil towards you, looking directly at the 3 pins(male connector) [| | |] 1st - IB 2nd - G 3rd - + Am i doing something wrong there? My coils are fine, they dont give any error codes or misfire. Also, i know that the above method is only testing the secondary coil. Would i be correct in saying that to measure the primary coil, i would need to measure pins 3 and 4(the bit the spark plug sits in), and more importantly, What are the values?

my mate had a high mount t04e on a stainless mani and and external venting. he also had a cat. 3inch off the turbo with a 5inch tip. That thing sounded sooooo angry even on idle. When the external opened up, it scared every other pedestrian and driver on the road haha. sounded Better then a V8. When he got rid of the cat, it was even louder. scary. i remember i was sittin in the passengers and he started it up and it kinda felt like my head was vibrating..

I fully agree. However the 10.53 run is incredibly quick! I just hope that someone is able to develop a manual transmission! haha.

Yeh im with GT on this one. Let someone else drive your car and just vid it or hear it drive by. Obviously someone you trust would be good!

Dam. does it go off when you have the ignition on? or does it go off when the engine is running?? it will maintain the pressure when you turn the ign on and switch off after around 5 secs i believe. Also, i think you could test the impedence of the pump to see if its on its way out - Unsure of the values tho!

Hey man, i think im in the same boat or the one next to it. I think its my actuator. ill try changing it soon. its kinda like a mini surge aye, then hits you with full power again. I dont think itl be fuel related as it pulls hard to the redline, its just that tiny lil surge.

Anyone wana help me get a Twin plate for mine? haha Banana time

I can tell apart from a turbo/NA skyline anytime. Sometimes its hard cos BMW's an N/A skylines sound very much allike, esp with a larger exh. The turbo have a kind of "growl" and when off boost will sound a bit muffled, but when on boost its loud and rev out way quicker. However the N/A sounds Raspy/Tinny. They will also be slower to rev out. thats from my personal experience tho. EDIT - Sorry guys, left the banana man out by accident ==--> Yea!

Hey bro. dont think itl be the injectors. Could be the AFM is all clogged up. Have you tried cleaning it with some brake/electrical cleaner? Another thing, can you HEAR the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition? When it does start up, can you drive it/rev cleanly? No misfire?

Hey man. im in a similar boat. I think its my actuator tho. but it doesnt spike/creep by much.. only 3-4psi if that. Have you tried a diff boost tap? or an ebc? How bad are the spikes? When did it start spiking??

Hey, i sometimes get a howling noise from my turbo area. Only when/if its cold. Eg i start up in the morning and start driving straightaway( i know thats stupid but it shouldnt howl at all) I still dont know what it is.. weird, but it still drives fine.

I say steal it! haha

After reading all the replies to such a simple question, it would be obvious the guy knows his mistake and hopefully is trying to get it sorted. No need to overly laugh at his mishap. Im sure we all have done something stupid haha. Anyway, do i see a padlock coming to this thread?

Could make a fortune selling multi-layered Head gaskets

They can handle up to 1 bar but only for short bursts, otherwise prolonged uses at 1 bar WILL cost you the turbo. A safe limit is 10-13psi, however it depends on the condition of the turbo, whether theres any shaft play, using oil, smoke etc. If its noisy then you could get away with just a recon. you can easily make 200+rwkw on the stocker. It depends on what afr's youre running primarily. I've seen around 220rwkw with the stocker at around 13psi, But then again, every turbo/engine is different.

Hey all. did a bit of search but most of it was on thermo fans. Im going to be upgrading my cars cooling system in the near future, starting with fans for my FMIC. and a sprayer kit. Im thinking of putting 2 of this fan below behind the fmic to pull cool air when the sprayers active. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...amp;permanent=0 The thing i want to know is, how much current will upset the alternator? I mean if the fan draws 10amp max, would having 2 of these fans put too much load on the alternator? Main reason for this mod is to help get rid of heat soak when vehicles stationary.

Dam, such a stupid idea haha. couldnt they just make that the High Boost switch??? Instead they want us to go out and buy an ebc come on nissan.

Hmmm it sounds a bit weird. Does it idle hunt when you turn the AC? I sometimes get the 5th gear cruch too.. but thats only if im boosting hard, and i havent pushed the clutch in fully. oops. If you have the clutch fully in, and you put her into 5th slow, and it still cruches, maybe your clutch needs bleeding/adjusting, thats what i did to mine, except it only happened in reverse sometimes.

If i had to chose from the ones in the pic, the R32, obviously, overall - Ztune or the HKS Zero!!!

just my 2c - I put on a 600x300x86mm fmic and i didnt notice any noticeble extra lag at all. However it did hit much harder in the top end. R33 25t manual

Last time i hit that switch, I heard a voice come from the dash sayin "VTEC just kicked in, YO!"

Fair enough, my arguement still stands, IF Nissan had released a manual gearbox, i dont think there would have been many issues. Alright maybe blowing the clutch at most due to improper bedding etc, but Nissan would bed it before anyhow. Sure it maybe a few 10ths slower but it would still have a manual, which would be lighter then the heavy auto, cheaper to replace, and be more interactive and fun to drive. But hey, thats just my 2c

Very interesting thread. I once raced a brand new sv6 holden, they push around 190kw. I had a bad case of misfire where it wud misfire over 5k. and i was only boosting 5psi and the oil hadnt been changed for at least 15000ks. Was a bit stupid of me tho. Didnt launch it and kept up with it all the way till around 140 when had to slow down. When i had it serviced and had the misfire sorted, raced an FPV pursuit 290kw from 0-150k and kept up with it no sweat, but then i still have a boost creep issue! DOH!!! Now i pretty much have it sorted. Waiting for another punter to line me up at the lights. Im only pusing around 190rwkw atm and running 7-8psi.