Ultimategtr

BAMR33 - are u running a stock ecu? what other mods are you running??

doesnt the GTR shift in like .1sec or so?

would WMI on a factory R33 25t ecu be any harmful? i understand(not 100%) that it might not make much power at all due to being untuned.. but would it have any benefits?

meh - everyone knows plastic adds to the wank factor

what mods are u running? crook w/g actuator? have u done a diagnostic? try resetting the ecu properly(shorting the 2 pins in the plug method)

the stocker is good for around 220 or even more. what other mods have you got? they are excellent in terms of response. skylines dont need big boost to make strong power. I have the stock turbo and i see 190rwkw with 10psi. let your turbo breathe properly and fit some good plugs and you should see a healthy increase. if you wanted a bigger turbo, you would need a p/b or a full ecu..

very interesting! i doubt NISSAN would raise the power outputs to over 600HP due to the Plasma coating, which supposedly is good for up to only 600hp or so. If the current GTR is a "mini veyron", then what would the VSPEC be??

we dont have the mag here in nz yet....... and i wana read it NOW

Could someone PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE SCAN the pages and post up??? please! photobucket anyone??

hit the search button up top and type in ''ECU Diagnostic". http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...=ecu+diagnostic this link should get you somewhere.

$60 of pulp gets me around 220km of mixed driving. thats just a wee bit over 1/2 tank. just the basic mods: fmic, zorst, 9psi, cai, splifires(180++rwkw). needs new oxy

Just got it in the mail today, took around 1.5 weeks after payment which is fine. Took me 2 mins to install it, which includes binning the old atomic boost tap. Came preset to 10psi. took it for a spin, virtually no creep at all. Only crept up to 12-13psi by the redline. Awesome product! Have now set the boost to 7psi and it builds it instantly. Creeps up to around 8-9psi maybe around 6000rpm. Highly recommended to everyeone! Thanks simark!

my mate in his 93 Prelude did a similar thing.. he was racing and evo on the motorway.. they were doing around 120 or something i dont know. He dropped from 5th to 2nd. over-revved to like 10000or woteva. hahaha. his engine was a mess. needed a tow truck hahaha. needless to say he needed a new engine. stupid honda's.

thought i might add my 2c: when i fill up at the local servo on a hot day.. pop the hood and pour water from those containers over the fmic and the radiator while the engines running.. when i start driving i notice that the temp gauge on my cluster R33 25t drops a fair whack.. it remains like that for around 15-20 min or so. i dont think a wee bit of spray would make any noticable difference at all, unless you let it spray for like 1 min continuously so that the fmic is drenched.

Alright i just did a diagnostic and it came up with Error code 21(2 long flashes and 1 short). so i turned the ignition off, took keys out and started her up.. let it idle for about 5 mins.. slowly started driving.. and the engine check light would come on for a few secs now and then.. i drove back home.. let it idle.. it went away.. i assume that was the ecu doing its adjustments etc... i then turned it off.. restarted it and turned it off again.. did a diagnostic and came up all ok(55). Tried that twice.. same thing alright so i took it for a slow spin at first.. seemed ALOT more responsive and idle is now sitting a rock steady 700 or so. when i gave it boost, Oh my god... its has NEVER revved this cleanly. 7000rpm came up in a flash. same in 2nd, no traction. shifted into 3rd around 6500 and already 90-100clicks. around 5secs. Does it all seem okay now? Any advice?? i havent checked timing yet(no tools).

so when we check the timing using the timing light and if the timing is retarded to 10 degrees, what timing is that? The RB25det should be set to 15degrees timing... is that the base timing? sorry about the noob questions. im confused so needing advise from others.

Hey. im a bit confused after reading the R33 service manual. i did try searching but not mcuh luck sorry. Could someone maybe point me in the right direction or explain what(if any) the differences are between: Ignition Timing Base Timing Cam Timing This is regarding R33 s2 25t. erratic idle and possible retarded timing.

lol that bad huh. i hope mine isnt that bad. ill run a diag and see what it comes up with.

haha yeh i was a bit. alright i just went to see my tuner and the timing was ALL over the place.....?? he turned the AC on and then the timing settled to 15. said to me the CAS is probably faulty(hitachi unit). is there a way to test the CAS. would it generate a fault code which would show up on a diagnostic? are there any dangers to having a faulty CAS? (Sorry to hijack thread!!!!)

BUMP

Tube and fin FTW - more effecient but a tad more expensive. WMI - it basically works by cooling the intake and cylinder charge temperatures.. ie, the cooler th air, the more dense, ie more OXYGEN enters th cylinder, the Methanol has a supercooling effect in the cylinder. thats how you get more HP, because the combustion is alot more effecient. The engine burns more cleanly. best used if youre going to use an aftermarket ecu otherwise th stocker may richen it up more...

yep th plugs are fine. i just changed my plugs last weekend and they were similar color to yours. its just running rich, normal. gotta be careful if the plugs are white... means its going towards a stoich/lean mixture..... stoich is good but means hotter temps which is why the plugs would be white i use #7 plugs on mine.. people say i should use 6 but 7 is fine.

hey sorry to hijack this thread(it had info which i needed and didnt want to waste opening up another thread) i just had my timing checked at a local garage.... the notch on the crank case lines up with the 2nd white mark on the balancer/pulley. Basically i see th yellow(0degree) and 2 other white lines match up to the crank notch... Does that mean my timing is only at 10degrees? i thought the BT was 15? plz help.

Iv heard rumours that if u slap on a TYPE R sticker on the fenders, it gives you 10psi extra boost, just like that, even on non-turbo cars.

Iv seen some 4 power figure GTR's using the stock coils..... when in good nick, no need to change.. but hey if its free i would just keep em as backup!