Ultimategtr

Good luck to the clutch!

Gun metal is actually quite true. In saying that, If you were going to really pushing to get big numbers, its just sensible to put some decent cooler, not just a cheap china copy, as when you're pushing your motor, even the simplest of design flaws can magnify and really effect the performance. When I was in the market for a fmic, I couldnt source a gtr one cheap enough, so ended up getting a HDi GT spec tube/fin one. Had it delivered to my door for around $450 NZD. Its good to do alot of reasearch before you buy car parts - which is what you're doing - is great.

+1 to ^ haha.. or run WMI

zebra is spot on.

+1 ^ You can also install these very thin adhesive pads behind the pads. Pick them up from BNT.. should be around $5 for all 4 wheels. This is the only thing that stopped my brakes from squealing.

No i didnt sorry. I specifically called the service deptartment at nissan. They said you dont need to. How would I bleed the ABS unit? Same process as doing the wheels?

R33 gts25t, manual, with ABS. Changed to RBF600. I pumped the fluid out of the master cylinder using a vacumm, then poured new stuff in, and led the brakes (rear left, then right, front left then right). Brakes are a bit better, but still spongy. Using Ferodos DS2500 all round, 1/2 left. Discs were machined when pads were put in. No visible warping. The front left brakes makes a clicking sound when pumping the brake pedal. Unsure what to do, and yes, have searched for about 20 minutes reading multiple threads. My master cyl isnt flexing much at all. Is there a special way of bleeding an ABS equipped brake system?

People usually tend to exaggerate(intentionally/unintentionally) about their power figures in a conversation with a superior make. I would first want to find out exactly how much power he is making. If the Dyno installed in his drivers seat is telling him 230rwkw, then its most likely false. Stick to the facts, stock R33 GTR will do 0-100 in under 5 flat, and 1/4 mile in under 13s. Soarer - 0-100 in about 6?? 1/4 mile in 15ish? The V8 soarer is a boat. the TT soarer is quickish, but the turbos are extremely small(smaller then the starlets ct27??). If he has the TT version and was making 230rwkw, It would be quick to say 0-80ish, after that, the GTR's long gearing, revs, torque, and power delivery would walk all over it.

I concur! Get rid of the mines ecu for starters. I used to get the same spiking as you did. 1) get rid off the tap, and T off the wastegate from your jpipe nipple using a thin pipe - That will tell you whether your taps faulty or not. You should see around 7psi solid. 2) Check your timing. This turned out to be my issue as it was set to 12.5 rather then 15. 3) Check plugs/coils to see if its misfiring 4) Check for any vacumm leaks

You wait for it till you hear a loud thud, followed by a few bangs. Then its safe to say your fuel pump needs replacing.

Im planning on changing my fluid to 5.1 this weekend. My cars got ABS, should I be doing anything special? I know the bleed order (rear left/right, front left/right). Thanks

@ OP - I had same issue.. notchy going into 2nd(upshift or down). Redline shockproof lightweight did the trick. I used some additive for the gearbox as well - Cant remember the name tho.

^ +1. However bleeding the system that way takes a while, and you are more prone to burning urself with hot water. I usually reverse into the driveway, so that my front is higher then my rear(radiator top being hte highest point in the engine bay). I simply start the car, and let it idle for about 30-40 mins. Amazing how much air is trapped in there.

The main thing one would notice is the sound, esp if you are changing the front/dump pipe to something decent. I found mine had more of a "growl" when I put my tomei dump/front on. Kick in the pants wise - Not so much difference.

Take it to a dyno, take 2-3 degrees out of your timing. Easily done in 5 mins. If it still pings, might be your fuel pump.

Blaming the ecu is an easy thing to do. Could also be the dyno reading low. Post up a dyno sheet. I wouldnt say anything is wrong. Do the basics first, ie servicing(plugs/oil/timing/ecu reset, etc). Mine pulled 175rwkw with only a catback and a pod and 12.5degrees and was only running 9psi.

I think he meant a hiflowed R33 turbo as a replacement... which might be laggy, depending on what kind of core used.

found my cause of misfire, 2 of my coils were missing the spring, and as a result there was some white powder stuff on top of the plug and in the coil at the base.. cleaned out and with new springs and plugs fixed my missfire.

Mines just started misfiring around 4.5-5k. Im running splitfires and BCPR7ES and on a hybrid turbo runnin 8psi. Plugs are due for a change anyway.

Similar thing happened to me while my car was off the road for a month.. Except the oil turned milky/caramel. Turns out it was condensation/rust in the motor. I bought 2 sets of oil/filters and changed them after around 5 min of idling, then put some Elf racing oil and its been sweet ever since. Do a compression/leakdown test to be sure if you like tho.

I had this problem(stock r33 oem battery) I cleaned it all out nicely by emptying the acid, then hosing the cells thoroughly to get all the gunk/shit out. I just rinsed it with some distilled water, and filled it up again with some more clean distilled water and left it on charge overnight. That battery lasted me over a year after I cleaned it this way.

Someones whipped

Ahh.. I see the numbers increasing

I thought the rule of thumb was that that Thrust/Journal Bearing cores needed a more oil where as Ball bearings only need a small amount? When i put my hybrid j/bearing turbo on, I had the guy drill out the stock banjos and lines.

R33 GTST with 30k Mods - Good luck with the resale value. GTR - Will hardly depreciate Period.