Ultimategtr

imo - upgrade to either RX7's or the S15R 480's. More headroom for *futre boost bugs. *future - edit

I assume your rotors arent warped and you skimmed them before you put new pads on? Do the obvious and cheap first ie, lightly sand the pad surface and bed it again, otherwise you might glaze the pad(forms silicon like stuff and hardens up). Try bending your existing shims a little and see if that helps. If no go, then try putting some of that red brake glue that you spray BEHIND the brake pads. Anti-squeal shims. This fixed my issue - Adhesive brake pad stickers($4 for pack of 8 from BNT). If all that fails, it might pay to check to see whether the pots(name) are actually pushing onto the pad evenly. If one of them isnt pushing out fully, then that may explain your squeal.

Dont forget to stick on a Type R sticker, in red somewhere on the block(if its big enough for the sticker) - Gives you 50hp/wheel. haha. Just kidding dude. welcome along from NZ Tonnes of info to be found on here.

You should get a Type R sticker... in red.. then you will do wheelstands when you launch.

whats your Gain set to? Your Duty is set to 35? Remember the Gain shouldnt exceed your DC.

This is a PM a fellow sau member sent me when I needed assistance setting up my MSIBC =============================================== http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/Support_Instruction.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3126267 Basically you turn up the solenoid duty cycle to get more boost, to do this is easy (Adjusting duty cycle section of the manual).. B1 = button 1 B2 = button 2 Hold B2 for 2 seconds (brings us to the closed loop setting, if you want open loop press either button once to switch between) Now that your at the closed or open loop setting, hold B1 & B2 together for a second Now we're at the solenoid duty cycle menu, B1 turns the duty cycle up (or down I forget), B2 does the opposite (if B1 turns up, this turns it down) Hold B1 & B2 for a second, now we're at the Gain menu (how quickly the turbo comes to boost), B1 turns it up, B2 turns it down Hold B1 & B2 for a second to get back to the digital boost gauge. =============================================== Personally - it works great for me. I read somewhere(I think the gizzmo manual) that one way of combatting creep is to lower the Duty cycle a few degrees and increase the gain, that way, by the time it creeps, the solenoid has already stabalised the boost. Also, make sure you run it in CLOSED LOOP.

My advice - Rent a Corolla, or a Commywhole for a few days. Then take your beast for a drive.

You cant hear an engine pinging, unless its pinging REALLY bad. Every engine is different. If you were to play with the timing, then you really need it up on a dyno to make sure its not pinging at all.

Maegan Fox hands down.

Ouch, said the Head gasket

Upon reading the initial post, I see how poorly Tom communicated. Seemed to make a mockery out of his initial email. Wonder how we can get through to their bosses and get this to their attention.

If i can add, Tom hasnt been very customer friendly either(my experieces). He completely aggravated me. Wouldnt refund my product. Hes an arsehole who needs to be stabbed in the eye, i hope!

I might be the only one so far to say "GO THE GTR!!!!"

What BOV is he using?

I tend to disagree - If you have a CAI with a POD AND a source/duct for some cold air, then the pod will do a better job then the stock airbox. btw - the dudes making 154rwkw with a full exh/fmic/7psi??? Isnt that a tad low? Give her a full service and throw in some new plugs. Check the base timing as well. Reason why i say that, I made 175rwkw with just a catback and an Apexi pod and peak 9psi. Not comparing - just saying that it sounds a tad low.

Fuel/Timing are the simple things you can check. Otherwise def the tune.

On a similar note - you can get your stock injectors decapped/hiflowed and they instantly become 740cc(i think). However when you do that, you will need to check the spray pattern and do an extensive flow test. however this route isnt very popular due to people not wanting to "risk" it, which is fair enough. Those S15 injectors are pretty hard to find as you will most likely need to buy 2 sets. Talk to an engine builder, or your tuner to see what the best options are.

No. Im in a similar boat as well. 1) S15 Spec R injectors 480cc~ 2) RX7 S4/5 (red) 550cc i think 3) Subaru Version 4 Injectors - 440cc? Those 3 will drop straight in. Rumours have it that the RX7 injectors spray pattern may be different but I know of a few people running them and making good power, safely. If you can get your hands on the s15 ones, should be gold. Otherwise yeh.. balance our ur options.. whether to go with 2nd hand or new Nismo's.

I read the whole thread - Congrats! Full credit to the tuner. Cant wait to see a full tune on some bigger injectors.

Check the earths - failing that. Fuel pump. Wouldnt be the fuse as once it blows, no go.

actually last time i read up the R33 manual, I vaguely remember reading something like that. Cant confirm at the mo tho! IMHO - it really depends how the turbo is treated. even if its kept stock, thrashing it wont see such a long life as compared to a boosted turbo but kept in good condition and looked after.

Dam, Im having the same issue. I guess i'll have to pull the dash surround out. Any other tips?

*imagines a bunch of old wives talking about the rb25det/26 CAM gears over a nice cuppa tea with some cupcakes*

It depends on what turbo your running. On the stock/hiflowed - around 16-18psi but that will vary depending on age. Some may even leak at 12psi. I dont think theres a set limit on them as such. You just change it when it starts leaking, or turn the boost down

S15 Spec R Injectors(480cc) - would easily support well over 300kw. And it would be cheaper then new sards. Top mount mani - not necessary but would make a difference bigtime. If running an internal gate then would pay to get a decent EBC as you def dont want creeping. Imho - dont waste time modifying the factory plenum. I would take that money and spend it on a decent cluch. Also you might need to upgrade coils then too(only if its breaking under boost). GL