Ultimategtr

Can run stock ecu on hiflowed turbo's.. however dont be compelled to wind up the wick.. as your compressor would be at least 10mm bigger then the stocker.. which would flow craploads more air. I myself run a bush bearing hiflow with an rx7 core/exhaust setup and only run 5-6psi. Laggy, but way more hit then my stocker @ 9psi.

Which gizmo uni u got? the MSIBC or the IBC? I have the msibc and the rule of thumb was NOT to have the gain the same or higher then the duty cycle.. eg with the stock turbo/actuator i ran 25 gain and 30 d/c and it gave me around 8psi (i think). If you set the gain the same as the d/c or higher, you WILL get creep/surge issues - Why, i dont know. I think its just how fast the actuator opens/closes the gate. What is the setting on ur controller when u get surging? ie d/c, gain.. Also, youre running closed loop i presume?

Same thing happend to me.. Didnt spin at all on idle. As long as it doesnt have much shaft play, AND you primed the turbo, you should be fine.

Def a case of unlimited boost... check t-piece again.. post pic if possible..or by far shot.. the actuators stuck closed.

+1 too lean. Turn that boost down and get a bigger pump. Cheap as piss these days.

+1 to lithium. I get the same. You cant beat the stock turbo for responsiveness, period. I would get boost from around 1800+ in 3rd or 4th gear.

Cold start valve or Water temp sensor.

Amen!!

redline shockproof + the oil modifier got rid of all my crunches(only crunched reverse when cold. Now its super tight and feels brand new.

Ahhh mate, i tried mounting 1 on top of my bonnet. Only issue was that it drew too much currect from my Flux Capacitor.

Running an R34 SMIC will work - However, once the power bug hits you, it will hit hard - and then you will regret not getting a fmic in the first place. I believe the GTR coolers are more pricey then a aftermarket fmic kit. The issue with those smic's is heat soak, and LOTS and LOTS of it. If you can get an R34 smic for dirt cheap(40-50) then sounds ok, otherwise save the money and get a fmic and just paint it black.

Just a wild question - How did you bleed it? Reason why i ask, is because in the manual it states to bring up the engine temp up and turn the heater on 32*celsius and all. However some mechanics claim its best done when the engine is dead cold, with the engine off. I have a similar issue that seems to have gone away now after i bled it over and over. The other thing to notice is that the overflow bottle has a hole in the top bit, so maybe while driving it manages to escape through there?(highly doubt it tho)

Paul33 is bang on the money - imho - the side mount upgrades are a waste of time and money. No offence intended.

I was in a similar boat recently - drill and easy outs the best way.. UNLESS if the bolts stainless steel - then good luck.. lol. Another way is to weld a bolt onto where its broken off and open that with the double nut method.

Intercooler core design is the bigger issue - whether it is a tube and fine or bar n plate. Do a search for the differences. When i was upgrading mine, i looked up and found that the tube and fin design is more effecient at cooling the charged air - however something to do with how it flows through the tank which affects radiator effeciency. 76 or 85mm wouldnt really make that much of a difference. IMHO - I think that a 76mm tube n fin design would be more effecient then a 85/86mm bar n plate. Im using a tube n fin 85mm HDI fmic and I dont have any overheating issues at all. Best to do your research before you think of buying anything. Good luck!

So the engineer swears itl last well over 100k no sweat - Thats fine However, what happens when the power is increased? How does it affect the plasma coating? Somewhere i heard(rumours only) that the Plasma lining limits the power to only 600hp?

Is it a series 1? The coils have been changed twice - and are brand new? if so then problem will possibly be elsewhere.. perhaps ignitors as they do tend to play up. Hunting on idle - split vacum hose perhaps as well. Something i advise everytime - reset the ecu and look for diagnostic codes.

Taking longer to boost - How much are you actually boosting? Just because its taking longer to boost doesnt mean its a stuffed turbo. It could fowled plugs/misfire etc. You do have an aftermarket boost gauge, right? It could be something as simple as retarded timing causing your issues. When did it last get a good service?(oil change/plugs/filters). Start from the basics first.

In reality, Ferrari wanted a Slogan that read "Hung like a Horse, Goes like a Horse". However they had to use the prancing horse and photoshopped the dick out.. lol!

Dont think itl be a popped fmic piping as the idle would be very irratic however its possible. I suggest do a spanner check and then do a diagnostic on your ecu.

Theres been alot of debate as to whether the 34gtt smic is actually good. I dont think so. The single BIGGEST problem is going to be heat soak. The ONLY way i could think to make it more effecient would be to stick a fan behind/infront and stick a water spray - BUT by the time you spend money on the fan/spray it comes close to the cost of a fmic.. so do the math. Seriosly, save up and get a fmic and you wont look back. All this talk about response loss with the fmic is bollocks. When i upgraded to a fmic i didnt notice any loss of response at all.

2 things pop into my mind.. 1) Why do you think your turbo's on its way out? 2) If you mechanic says the hiflo is no good, he is right and wrong - right because of your stock ecu parameters - and it WILL be a lil bit laggy. Wrong because well.. i could go on n on.

Very valid points being said - Very true most of it. The stock turbo is oil and water cooled, thus it doesnt need much cooling - After a spirited drive, i would let mine idle for 30 secs only.. but the last few mins of driving i would not let the boost gauge go past 0 at all. with my new turbo - it doesnt need much cooling at all haha. It doesnt even spin on idle. lol. Conclusion - Turbo timer isnt necessary if you use common sense. Spend that money on a dump pipe, or an oil cooler.

Ouch...!! I just had my turbo changed over so was in the same boat - 2 broken studs.. Had to use easy out.. Use a hole punch in the CENTRE of the bolt.. then Small battery powered drill.. drill SLOWW.. make sure you stuff something in the exh!!!.. then wind the "easy out" in and turn it counter clockwise carefully.. Do a search on here as well. Oh, and make sure you dowse heaps of WD40 on the bolts. One way to minimise broken studs is to tap on the studs witha hammer to loosen up the inner sides of the nut.. Good luck!

2mm of shaftplay is alot, if its geniune 2mm. You really need to take the turbo to a specialst to see if the play is within limits.