Ultimategtr

I just ran 3 oils thru my engine over the weekend and a flush(due to some reason) and currently have Castrol magnatec 10w40. On a cold start the factory oil pressure sits a few mm over the 4 bar mark On a warm idle its around 2 or under. As far as i know - if your oil pressure drops BELOW 5-7psi - THEN you have a problem, anything over that is fine. Phat mr 30 - Do you still have the factory oil pressure gauge? If so - whats that sitting at?

On a side note - i saw one of those silver/gunmetal R35's here on the motorway.. wow it just looks sooo much better in flesh.

Do vagina's need gaskets?? i thought it was once a month thing only for them

Boost leak mate. It could also be the wrong plugs - ie too cold or too hot, or even misfiring. Reset ecu and run diagnostic. that should set you in the right track for sure.

Just to take a wild stab - 1 way to find out if the coils are on there way out is to measure the resistance between A-B(i think - as per factory manual). Now i know that the readings in the manual are for stock coils. However the readings you get, write them down and compare them individually. eg coils 1-4 have around 20k-22k resistance where as 5 and 6 are getting 29k.. that would "KINDOF" indicate that 5 and 6 possibly could be faulty, judging their resistance. This method is only going to test the primary coil tho, not the secondary coil. Thats 1 easy way of testing it, the other is to take the coils out and take it to a professional sparky - where they can load up the coil to a few hundred V on their test bench and see if theres anything wrong. This would be better - as the coil heats up, the resitance would too, therefore this test would be more accurate.

Instead of changing the AFM/PLUGS etc and spending money on those things, the VERY first thing one should have done(i know i would have), was run a diagnostic on the stock ecu(if its still stock). Checking simple things like timing, fuel pump pressure etc. What gaps are you running?

Congrats mate! when did you get traction?

You guys reckn itl be the same process to replace it with an 044?? and whats the best way to secure the pump to the cradle? metal clamps i suppose?

Split hose to the bleed valve perhaps? Post up pics of the bleed valve and where its tapped into

Split hose to the bleed valve perhaps? Post up pics of the bleed valve and where its tapped into

sounds like perhaps a boost controller setup/fine tuning issue. Do you know where the eboost is getting the boost source from? It could be something as simple as decreasing the gain on your eboost, as generally, if you set the gain higher then or equal to the start boost, you will/might get some surge..

Another option are some Rx7 injectors - Denso 555's i beleive. Straigh bolt on, good over well over 300rwkw. Im in the process of buying some second hand ones.

I used to get that on my stock turbo.. MS-IBC boost controller set to 7/10psi. On low boost on a cold night/morning it would creep up to around 9psi initially but settled to 7psi spot on.. on high boost it would initially creep to 13psi but it would settle down to 9-10psi rock solid once the ebc discovered it was creeping. The other thing i used to do was decrease the gain a wee bit to help. If your turbo creeps to 14psi and STAYS there, then possibly you havent fine tuned it and thus would need to decrease the GAIN/Start boost. You def dont want to run 15-18psi otherwise: 1) Turbo's exh wheel WILL break 2) You will hit mass over-run and the ecu will do weird shit to save the engine

Def get a dump pipe.. pref bellmouth - have a look under the traders section. Just a word tho - You might get some boost creep. I used to get bad creep, but that could partially be because i dont have any pussies in my exhaust. Fixed with an ebc and pulls 10times harder then with the stock solenoid or the turbosmart boost tap

Nah no need, when you dyno'd it, it woulda switched to high boost anyway. The high boost hack will give you a constant 7-8psi. Only dyno if you have other mods, eg 11psi/fmic/piggyback etc.

Does Jim berry have a website?

Karl - what mods have you got on your R33? How are you metering 12psi? Have you tried turning the boost down a bit and see if that helps? If the exhaust is spitting - maybe its running rich - therefore meaning its getting enough fuel To me it sounds like its misfiring. What plugs are you running? Run a diagnostic/reset and see if it helps. Best option i reckn tho - Turn the boost down to 9-10psi as its the magic number.

IMHO: A combination of the following. If any money left over have a power run and see what a/f ratios/power etc are. From there on you could decide on ecu/injectors/clutch etc. 1) Splitfire coils 2) Decat or hi flow cat 3) Gizzmo MS-IBC boost controller 4) Oil cooler

+1 for Gizzmo MS-IBC - Unbelievably easy to tune! Literally it took me around 20 mins to tune it. Super quick response and holds stable boost all the way to the redline, anygear,anytime,anywhere.

Yep, i just did mine today. Taking it out was a piece of piss. Youd be amazed how dirty it is under the seats and under the speaker tray. I had a day off so cleaned out the boot and wired up the speakers and other loose bits up, so no more rattling from my boot

Clean/change your plugs, then reset your ecu. Assuming your plugs are .8mm, if not, change to .8mm.

bump

45psi - Dam, i thought it was around 50-60psi. means i cant run much boost at all with the z32 then. The wallbro pushes around 60psi or so, therefore with the base fp or around 40-42psi, means it will run out of fuel if i boost past 15psi roughly. Has anyone attempted to fit the Z32 in their R32/33/34?

Hey ppl, iv tried searching on here for a while but no luck, hence me making a thread up. I need to know whether the z32 fuel pump is able to be fitted in the R33 GTS-25t. I understand they can outflow the walbro's, and aparently on the z32 tt, good for over 500whp. Could someone please shed some light on this? Thanks.

Depends on how long the piece of string is. The stock mani on the rb25det is good for around 300rwkw. Changing it should give you a few more kw/torque/response. It will increase the under the bonnet temps tho, unless you properly heat wrap them. Dont go for those cheap chinese mani's. Cheap grade stainless steel and welds can be shocking quality.