DennisRB30

I have heard that reducing CR with a thicker gasket does not do as much good as it might seem. Apparently it interferes with the combustion chambers squish area, its sort of 2 steps forward one step back. The turbulence in the combustion chamber gets reduced because the piston no longer comes close enough to the squish area in the head, this effect somewhat offsets the lower CR (turbulence caused by the squish area is important for mixing the fuel and air to reduce detonation) It makes enough sense, exactly how important it is I don't know? It's worth a looking into anyway.

I hear ya. I would be interested but I just bought a house so I'm gonna be flat broke for a while. (hits dad up for a loan)

Make an offer BTW, as of yet, this car has only been listed on here and performance forums. It is not in the trading post. We are willing to take anyone for a no obligation drive.

Do it the "pay upon sale" way. Every 2 weeks they drop the price by 5%, so if you have it in there for 19K and you will take 15, that equals a fair run in the trading post for free. Chances are someone will buy it before it reaches 15K.

Have you got in the Trading post?

Off course a well driven manual will be faster. I was just thinking of a "post your time" thread where only a handful of the manual boys managed to into the 13's, so in that respect a 14.1 is not a bad effort... What does the snow button do?

Forgot, the car also has a kick arse stereo, pioneer head unit, CD stacker, splits at the front, woofer and amp in the boot, and 6 by 9's in the parcel tray.

Gives the some of the manual boys somthing to think about! Good work

Auto R33 turbos hammer. My brothers one (also for sale in this section) caned a manual R33 GTSt with more mods and also a R32 GTSt manual, we left the 32 for dead but it caught up eventually, the ***wits in the R33 wanted to start a fight with us because we won, even though there were 4 of us in ours and 2 of them in theres... However I question someone of that mental ability's driving skill... dick heads lol Theres no balance point between bog down or wheel spin with the auto (of course if a wheel spinning launch is what you want the auto will do easily that too if you stall it up enough) . It's just so much easier to get a good launch with an auto. I think there is a member on this forum who has done a 14.1 with a minimally modded auto.

Pod filter, full 3'' turbo back exhaust, adjustable boost, lowered, Auto, 4 door. Very nice car. Goes very well, don't be put of by the auto if you have never driven a R33 GTSt auto, its very fast off the line. Its gunmetal grey. It's my brothers. I think its a 1993 model which would make it a ser 1. The interior is in A1 condition as is the exterior besides one scratch and a bit of a scuff on there rear bumper but I think they *might* even be getting repaired (you can barely notice it anyway). Gearbox and suspension etc are all fine. I don't have any pics but I can assure you it's a nice car. If you're serious give me a ring on 0412 453 868. The car is in Redcliffe. It has around 80k km on the clock (from memory) $17000.

Weren't supposedly "dodgy" servos adding toluene to fuel because it is CHEAPER than petrol? Remember when the stoopid media beat it up, saying it would blow your car up and rot your fuel lines.

They are some nice times. I hope you get a 13. You're only .32 away.

Yeah a mate of mine used a broomstick too. It took us the rest of the day to pull the engine out and take the timing cover of to fix it up after the tensioner poped out.

Well then rev210, if you done a 13.3 with a 2.3 60ft a high 12 will be closely within your reach with some decent tires for sure :burnout: Great work Motox Your time is simply brilliant considering you only have a catback zorst and boost upgrade. What size/brand tires do you use? I will be very interested to see how your upcoming cooler upgrade will affect your ET

Try this http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html And this http://www.c5-corvette.com/tirecalc.htm

It is a good idea to try and keep the rolling diameter the same, or at least calculate the difference it is going to make to your speedo. Otherwise you might find yourself getting booked for speeding all the time.

"If you run a small arsed 13" wheel your spedo is going to be saying that you are doing 130km/h when you are only doing say 90km/h.. " Yeah, but your tacho will still say 3500rpm (or whatever) when your speedo says 100km/h (in the respective gear). You could throw your wheels taishaft and diff into the ocean and that would not change

Ahh close enough then. BTW, changing the wheel size won't do anything to change what your speedo says at any given engine RPM. I would have thought that the dyno would have been more accurate at telling actual road speed than any car speedo because wheel size would not be an issue (but the speedo would read wrong if you changed wheel size, which would throw out any calculations based on dyno speed)

Hmm, conflicting information. My chart might be wrong then.

The lower CR allows more timing to be added.

;P

It's good but not legal because it vents gasses into the air. I just noticed he is banned, what happened?

http://www.stanleyproto.com/default.asp?TY...Y=FEELER+GAUGES

Feeler gages, they are very thin strips of metal of varying thickness and have their individual thickness marked on them. You just put the right ones on top of each other by adding up their thicknesses to make the thickness you need. They can be bought from any auto store and only cost a few dollars. You slide them into the spark plug gap. You should be *just* able to push them through with out using force. If you force them in you can get a wrong reading and/or damage the gages.

Get some new plugs and gap them down to 0.8. It fixed the prob when I done it to my brothers car.