warps

Def need big brakes for teh street racing and Mt Glorious runs brah

The front diff is in the front and the rear diff is in the back the front diff is open but you can convert it to LSD with a Phantom Grip assembly. To increase the locking, you use coarse lapping paste between the faces. Note you'll need to build up and machine the faces every 5000km because they'll wear out so quickly.

Well done!! Glad you stuck it out. As 89Cal said, when it worked from the front but not the back, it meant it had to be something to do with the wiring in between.

Guys, be fair The R33 diff is a common conversion into BA falcons in drag racing and speedway circles. The trick is, that you need to use a front diff out of the GTS4 (NA). This will bolt straight in but you'll then have to convert the Falcon to 4 stud at the back. You'll also need to fit the Skyline steering rack and lock it out, but this has the benefit of giving you adjustable toe on the back of the Falcon. If you're half smart you can put a tee line into your power steering return lines, install a couple of electric solenoid actuated pilot valves and connect this to the unused terminals in the Falcon ECU to give you HICAS (you;ll need to call your local Pirtek dude to make up the hyd lines for you, as the Skyline and Falcon hydraulic fittings are different - Skylines use 1/4" BSPP and Falcon uses 3/8" NPT). Again, a little known fact that Ford played around with HICAS style rear steering, but gave it away as too costly on their budget spec taxis. True

Testing with a 5W bulb in a test light won't tell you what's happening when you're trying to ram several hundred amps of cranking current through the starting curcuit. You need to unbolt the terminals of the earth lead and physically check / clean them. I've seen this problem before with poor earths. They run low current fine, but increase the current and they play up. The fact that it starts properly when you're using a different earth (and possibly positive terminal) hints that your problem lies with poor contact.

Labrador Auto Electrical just off Brisbane Rd do good work.

Positive post under bonnet? Or on the battery in the boot? Sounds like one of your leads is dodgy (probably earth). With the battery in the boot you need good quality cables all the way from the battery to the engine bay. Unbolt the earth lead from the battery and wherever it attaches to earth. Clean the terminals at both ends (remove dirt, rust etc) on the cable and where it attaches to earth, and refit. Tighten properly. do the same for any earth straps in the engine bay. This should fix the problem.

Funny I've heard lots of horror stories about Hiluxes and Navaras and I've heard lots of people love them. My pathfinder is nearing 5 years and going strong (same mechanically as Navara). Still has the original clutch and nothing's blown up on it. All makers have horror stories though. The OEM rated towing capacity is more of a marketing thing, too. While my pathy may be rated at 3500 (or 3000 - not sure) I doubt it would ever feel comfortable with that much hanging out the back. Anyone who actually needs to be towing 3500kg needs to look at something built for towing / load carrying, and not just a family 4WD / SUV. YOu'll need a heavy licence to drive it, anyway, as your CGM will be 6 tonnes or more.

Always worked flawlessly on my G25 without tweaking it

RB30 can be fitted, but a lot less work to get an L28 in there. Oz spec 280's never came with an L20 though. Dunno what's going on there. Plenty of RB20 / 25 / 26 Zed conversions about, so it's all possible. How deep are your pockets though?

Are we talking 280ZX? They had an L28 engine in them. In stock (pollution) form they were slugs all right, but they are very easy to modify and there are several pushing near on 300bhp without turbos. Never under estimate the L28. In stock form the 280ZX was the luxury barge of the era, but with easy suspension and engine tweaks, they are easy to convert into the sports car they should have been.

Zinc Any zinc rich primer, such as Zinc-it or cold gal will give you some cathodic protection. Otherwise use the POV anti rust and pour old engine oil over it every time you do an oil change. That's what we used to do in Finland to combat rust on the salted roads back when I were a lad.

Not much chop for anything more than a box trailer. I just picked up my new tow vehicle the other day - got a Ti Pathfinder (not the 550 though - that would cost me nearly $20k more than I paid for this one). Haven't towed with it yet, but at least the kids are kept happy with the rear DVD player now. I don't like that they've deleted the telescopic steering adjustment. I feel like I need monkey arms to drive this thing anyone want to buy a '07 Pathfinder ST-L? Will be selling the old one in about 3 months time.

Yet another uninformed biased muppet with no idea While the Civics aren't going to rock your world, they're a lot of fun and great for what they are (a 1.6L NA shopping trolley). In your price range they are hard to beat. Reliable, reasonably quick and lots of fun. I am yet to be beaten by a RWD turbo in my FWD Civic rally car, so they must have something going for them. Of course FWD isn't for everyone, so test drive before you buy. If you can live with the shame of owning a FWD, then you won't go too far wrong with a B16a Civic / CRX.

Snap on is good gear but unless you use it for work (ie you're a fitter / mechanic) it's major overkill. Any home handyman or enthusiast who tells you otherwise is just trying to be cool, and doesn't know what he's talking about. For the amount of use a tool set will get with a typical car enthusiast, Sidchrome or other mid-range gear (as per a few of the brands listed above) will do the job fine. My socket set is 25 years old and still going strong. It's scratched up and dirty, but everything works well. Stanley gear is fine as well - I have a screwdriver set (25 years old) and ROE spanner set and again it hasn't let me down (except when I snapped the blade off one screw driver trying to use it as a lever). Stay away from the cheap and nasty supercheap gear and you should be OK. The only tools I've ever broken without ridiculous abuse is the cheapo stuff. Even the Repco gear surprised me with its quality. I wanted a small 1/4" drive socket set for the tight fiddly jobs that the 1/2" gear couldn't quite fit, and the Repco set is surprisingly good quality. I use it a lot more than I had intended, although it's only 12 months old so can't vouch for its longevity.

What about this one? At $142k it's a bargain!!

Nah - he just polished it too many times No. I'm not talking about the car

Dude. The 4.4 weighs LESS than the nissan lump of iron (199kg) The P76 V8 sedan weghed less than the 6 cyl model, despite bigger driveline and wider track than the 6 cyl You are all uncultured swine! the 4.4 into C110 / C210 was THE original hot rod Datsun engine conversion (apart from L18 into 1600, but that's boring by comparison). At the time, 4.4 was the largest engine you could fit into a C110/210 legally. You didn't need to upgrade the brakes with that conversion either (just sayin'). Unfortunately you all have the benefit of RB26 / 4 spor brake / coilover conversion availability nowdays, and have forgotten how limited the choices for hot rodding Datsuns were in those days. Also remember, the C210 was nothing more exotic in its day than a Toyota Aurion is today. In standard form, the v8 was good for a whopping 140kW. Hardly a power house by today's standards, but certainly livened up the little Skylines. If a 4.4V8 powered skyline handles badly, I can guarantee it is NOT because of the engine. These were actually quite common in the 80's

FWD and RWD have very different handling characteristics at the limit, and hence need very different driving styles. This is little different to the RWD fanbois after one drive of a FWD, declaring they're sh!t. If you try to drive fast on the street (bad) then it will take time to get to know your car's characteristics. Not been given a licence? Perhaps so, but not for you to decide.

Or maybe he was told not to risk tangling with his team mate in a desperate effort to show he can match the young gun, thus losing a shedload of points for the championship leading team, and driver. I'm no vettel fan, but can see the sense in the orders. Vettel may be a cleaner racer this year, but there's no guarantee he won't do something stupid under pressure.

Maybe you should try the guitar forums

Show us some engineering arguments and I might bother responding with some engineering. You graduate Mech eng next year? I graduated 23 years ago. What's your point? "power out of oversteer" you missed my point. Think about the whole driving style, or better yet, have a go at it. I was trying to make you think about it, and the answers might dawn onto you. I wasn't referring only to the low speed / tight stuff either. Plenty of fast FWD cars in forest stages too. That's pretty real, and TBH a lot closer to road cars than your example. As I said, several state lap records are held by FWD cars in IPRA. They can't be all bad. Perhaps you're right - in theory at the very pinnacle of the sport, RWD probably is better (F1 cars have never been FWD after all, have they?). The Point of this whole thread was what sporty cars are available to buy off the shelf, with some aftermarket support out there? Writing off FWD because of a bias (based on an unrealistic racing category) is pretty irrelevant.

Aaron, Given that your argument appears to be based on some intelligent thought, I'd hardly call you a hater, and my haters comment wasn't directed at yourself. As for the fundamental flaw of the front wheels doing the driving AND steering, that isn't entirely correct (being a flaw, that is). In slippery conditions, that actually works to the FWD's advantage (just think about what you do to the throttle in correcting oversteer in either configuration) FWD's hold several state lap records in IPRA - against similarly developed RWD cars As an example that FWD can equal RWd, consider a recent autocross I attended. compare 2 cars there on the day, one FWD, one RWD Cars: FWD: Honda Civic EG6, PRC spec RWD: Nissan Silvia S13, PRC spec Driveline: FWD: B16a - stock internally, with chip and big carbon fibre street racer intake, K&N pod filetr. CR gearbox with carbonetics clutch LSD RWD: SR20 with aftermarket ECU running antilag, not sure what other engine mods. CR gearbox and LSD Suspension: FWD: Bilstein Coilovers, stock arms and geometry RWD: Full MCA package Drivers: FWD: Rally driver who's been competing at club level on and off for 14 years RWD: Rally driver who has an ARC championship under his belt Lap times: Run 1 , Run 2 , Run 3 , Run 4 , Run 5 , Run 6 FWD 1:50.50 , 1:45.32 , 1:42.11 , 1:40.48 , 1:41.21 , 1:43.20 RWD: 1:50.50 , 1:47.27 , 1:45.35 , 1:44.87 , 1:46.72 , 1:51.00 In fact, the top 3 FWD's were faster than the Silvia on the day (one of which was a 1.8 laser road car, although it must have had some suspension mods to be so quick IMO.) The silvia was the 2nd fastest RWD on the day, being beaten by a very well driven 2L PRC escort. The escort just pipped the Civic on the last 2 runs to finish the day 0.27 seconds ahead of the Civic (5:07.00 vs 5:06.73 for the Escort) Not conclusive proof, but pretty convincing argument against your comment Never say never

Oh, you mean to refute your engineering level explanation? Geez, I don't think I can match your engineering logic. I won't bother getting dragged into this ridiculous argument, as I've already said my piece about FWD vs RWD. Haters always gonna hate.

Yet a stock XR6T would hose a "mildly modded[1]" GTSt around a track. Go figure? C'mon fanbois. Just because it feels different to what you're used to doesn't make it bad. Nervous going around highway bends at 110? Nothing wrong with the car, mate. You need some man pills. I've racked up 30,000 km in probably 50 different XR6's over the last few years, and I can't say any of them have felt sloppy or sluggish handling-wise. They may not be hard core track weapons, but their handling is far from what I'd consider "sloppy" [1] I assume we're talking about basic mods - suspension upgrade with a bit of engine work, not a full targa spec Skyline in which case it's a pretty pointless comparison.