warps

Reminds me of the guys who used to fit DCOE Webers onto their minis. The intake trumpets used to come through the firewall into the cabin. Then again, intake noise was half the reason people bought Webers, and in those days a Mini was far from quiet anyway, so the Weber conversion was nothing but win.

Value: $1k - 15k Availability? Good luck with that one. Many got sent to the crushers, or rusted away before the whole GTR thing made them popular again.

You have PM

Tried to PM you but it said you're not receiving PM's at this time (or something like that)

Yep that's the one. Was a bit more banged up though. Steve told me that a Ferrari ran into it. Have you talked to Steve about their proposed V8 Ginetta? He's had a bit of interest so far, and it sounds like a bit of a ball tearer (aiming for a reliable 450hp, though the options he's considering will probably give end users the ability to tweak to up to 600hp without too much drama). Will be a bit more exxy than the 4 cyl ones though. I've been trying to talk him into putting a Honda K20 into the 4 cyl cars - I reckon that would make a great U2L contender (or K24 if it's a 2.5 limit - I'm not familiar with their regs)

Was this a couple of months ago? did the broken Ginetta get sent back to WRS? If so, I saw the car (helped them unload it off the truck). Ouch - I feel for you. Those Ginettas are a sweet bus, all right. I hear they have a higher hp option in the pipeline.

Man, they still going? I had them machine the block and head out of my 180B back in 1988. Bill Chilton was about 70 in the shade back then. They were recommended to us by a Mercedes dealer, when we were looking to get a 1966 Mercedes engine overhauled back in about 1983 or so. The few times I used them the work was top quality, but that's 30 years ago so I can't give any commentary of their current capabilities.

Just a word of warning. That steel base plate does very little to spread the load. It will be effective for the first 20mm past the standard foot plate (if you're lucky) then the rest is there purely for show. If you want a proper base plate, it needs to be gusseted to properly transfer the loads to the edges, or be much thicker than what's shown in the photo As for tips on wiring the shed - LOTS of power points (including at least one 15A point). Also LOTS of overhead lighting. You don't need to use it all, but it's infinitely better than having power boards and extension leads all through the shed.

I'm certain that the V6 would do the job adequately, but if they're going to offer the V8 then who are we to argue? No idea what the cost will be though - I can't imagine it being cheap. I'm very impressed with the 2.0 TDi in those things - a friend has one and tows a massive caravan with it - claims it's the best tow truck he's ever owned (has had hiluxes, Navara, Pajero, Tourag among others over the years). Very comfortable on and off the road as well (didn't do any serious offroading in it - just driving around a mine site and back access roads).

Ouch!! I heard a rumour the 2016 Amarok will have the TDi V8. 300kW and a zillion Nm. Would make a decent tow truck

Exactly. I listed 20 aussie tracks off the top of my head - I'm sure there are more that I forgot about. Ageing graphics don't bother me. I can see where I'm going, can use the car's gauges to give me vital info, personally I don't need any more bling than that (and my Dell laptop won't run anything much more graphics intensive than that anyway) Realfeel is good, but takes a bit of setting up to get it feeling right

Just realised who OP is. Nothing more than another theoretical discussion point, then. Ask this same question at OzRotor and see what responses you get

You talking rotors in general, or FD's in particular? When I had cooling issues, then fan-belt alignment issues I saw my 12A spike over 120 deg lots of times, and it spent a lot of time over 110 deg. Never went Bang, nor did it need a rebuild. Must admit it was getting a bit tired by the time I sold it - I'd spent 5 years rallying it, and god knows how long since it had a rebuild before I bought it (I'd sorted the cooling issues by then, and it ran a comfortable 90 deg no matter what I did to it) Well maintained rotors are as reliable as anything else on the road. I'm hearing a lot more reliability issues from RB's than I do about injected rotors. Of course bolting a huge turbo and running 800HP out of a rotor is going to make it wear out faster. Very true comment about personal preference. The RX7 was built from ground up as a sports car. The Skyline is a converted family car (although build quality is admittedly very good - no doubt about that). Different cars for different markets. Personally I'd go a stock FD over a stock GTR but I've always preferred nimble cars to brute strength. I think for dollars spent on mods, an FD would be faster and more reliable.

FD has better balance, infinitely better handling and stock for stock more reliable than shitty RB's Finding an unmolested example of either is very difficult these days FD's consistently hosed GTR's in the 12hr races in early 90's. That should give you a clue.

The big feedback I'm hearing from the IPRA guys since going from the 048's to 050's is not only that the grip levels seem much higher, but they maintain the grip almost to the end, and don't seem as bothered by heat cycles. The end result is that many are claiming better value for money as they're getting the full life out of tyres, rather than binning them (selling cheap) after a few heat cycles when there's still a lot of tread left. Not sure how the Hankooks compare to 048's, but the 050's certainly crap all over the 48's.

Antibiotics are good for infections - what they were designed for. Not for colds, flu or minor irritations. Yes they've been horribly over prescribed, now we're paying the price. Researchers are finding bacteria resistant to most types of antibiotics - this is a real worry. The other problem is that people take antibiotics and then stop as soon as they feel better. This just makes the bacteria / infection angry and it mutates (simplistic view, but you get the idea). If you take antibiotics, then finish the course so you've positively killed whatever it was you were trying to kill. Nanites are the answer.

Holding Datsuns together for over 50 years.

Yeh that was the point - you don't need to be chasing this magical spring steel. Plenty of other grades that can do an effective job of it. Peening can be easily done with a needle gun - its fairly standard practice for crack repairs in high fatigue areas and critical welds (boom welding etc.). It's almost become second nature to boilies I my industry. They used to use the guns to chip the slag off, but now with gas and wire feeeders, they use the guns more for peening than getting rid of slag. Of course as soon as you start welding onto the spring steel, you'll probably gain more from correct pre / post heat than peening or blending. Not something I'd be recommending your average backyarder with a Bunnings gasless MIG setup.

And ffs blend / peen the welds when you finish. For a little bit of extra work you almost eliminate crack initiators. There are plenty of grades of steel between "mild" and "spring" (note neither of those have an actual standard defining what they are - they are more of a colloquial / marketing term). You can get higher yield strength steels by varying carbon and other alloying elements, and also give good heat treatability to allow the forming / tempering process. Mild steel will flex within its elastic range forever. The reason that "spring" steels are used is to allow the spring to deform much further (higher strain) and remain in its elastic range. You'll find that the steels all have about the same modulus of elasticity. The main difference is the yield strength.

Well I saw GT6 on special at EB games so thought I'd buy it and give it a whirl. I'd just like to say it lived up to all of my expectations. Same crappy physics, shit sound and stupid AI. f**k me I'm glad I didn't buy it when it came out. I had to fire up GPL and RFactor to get the horrible GT6 taste out of my mouth. Several laps around Bathurst in a GTHO Phase 3 soon cured me. Happy days again.

I find it highly unlikely that an undamaged pin would break. Maybe in an accident. If you have it adjusted so that it doesn't rattle, it is less like to wear or fatigue. Inspect it after every event and you should be good to go. I think these are generally a fine thread M12 on a lot of the old school steel bonnet pins. If yours is M10, then using a M12 will allow you to file flats onto the pin and still give you enough meat to drill the hole for the locking pin.

Is this the one that came out on PS4 as well (released midnight the night before last)? My son picked his up yesterday morning and absolutely loves it (was up till after midnight playing last night with a mate). That's all I know - I only play driving games, so don't get into any of that other stuff.

Interesting bit of trivia By this phase of the season last year, the SAU F1 thread had around 1650 posts. Same time this year we are at what, 650-ish? Certainly a loss of interest in the spectacle around here..

SOLD!!

It will most likely be a fine metric thread. Most tap and die sets only run standard metric threads. Better to buy a single, high quality tap than a generic T&D kit from super cheap. Any kit under $200 won't be very high quality, and I find that the threads are usually oversize (50% thread or worse). I've made the mistake of running a die nut over a thread I've cut on a lathe to clean the thread. The thread was cut to exacting specs (better than 70%) and the die nut cut way too much out of it, leaving it too loose for the application (high pressure fitting). Live and learn.