warps

Guinea cop?? Fkn autocorrect!! All good, man. Testing brake systems on a race track? What could possibly go wrong? I'll be testing my custom (Warps-Eng designed and built) adjustable twin master pedal box in the coming months. Stupid IPRA regs prevent you using any of the many off the shelf bolt-in units.

Nice!! Need any guinea cops to Beta test these for you? What thickness discs are you making them for? What mount style? (radial I'm guessing, though it doesn't look that way in the photo) Will they fit under a 15" rim comfortably on a 300mm disc? (looking like they would sh!t it in, given the low profile relative to pad location).

Steering rack gone to scrap paperweight / door stop still available

I bought this about 15 years ago when I was planning on buying myself an R33 GTS25T road car. I ended up buying an R32 road car instead, so never ended up building this model. The box has been opened, but I never started building the kit - none of the parts have been removed from the trees, and all parts are there and accounted for. The box has been sitting in a drawer for all this time, so everything is still in good condition. Great if you want to reproduce your pride and joy in 1:24 scale, or just want to add to your collection These have been discontinued for many years now, so good luck finding one anywhere. Asking $50 plus postage (will bubble wrap, or send in a medium mailing box to protect it). Also have an unused clear display case to suit 1:24 model cars. This is similar vintage to the model. Looking for $10 for the case PM for details

As long as you weren't driving one of those rare imports, you should be OK.

FYP meng

Can legally drive the unregistered car to him, but you must have your CTP insurance cover with you, and an appointment with the roadworthy guy. Also need to have the application for rego forms with you (this last bit maybe not essential, but a good idea). You can then drive straight from your place to the mechanic, and then straight to the transport place for rego. They will give you plates, which you have 24 hours to fit, and a receipt which you can use for proof of rego till the rego certificate turns up in the mail (up to 2 weeks) Edit: if the roadworthy place is a long way from you, then you might struggle to justify why you have to drive the unregistered car so far. Just something to consider. The other option is mobile roadworthies. They usually charge $30-40 more than the standard roady

All gone, thanks

I've had these parts in storage for going on 20 years, so time to offload them to clear some shelf space. The power steer rack is out of an R32 GTSt (I think). It's just over 2.5 turns lock to lock (less than 2.75) the rack has had P/S fluid in it the whole time, and the hoses plugged off, so the internals move freely. Inner and outer tie rod ends are included, and all feel tight (outers are very tight, inners slightly less so, but no slop in them). the rubber boots are all hard from age, so I'd replace them. I also have a pair of brass blanking plugs to go with the rack if you want to run it manualised (to block off where the hard lines go into the rack) - better than plugging the lines with devcon. I can make up blanking plugs for the other end, but that would cost extra. Looking for $20 for the rack, and another $20 for the 2 brass plugs. Add another $20 if you want the plugs for the other end of the hard lines. Also have a factory piggyback ECU that came out of an Aussie delivered R31 Skyline GTS2. This has been in storage for nearly 20 years, so I have no idea whether it's any good. I acquired it a GTS2 I used to own (I think the previous owner put an aftermarket piggyback ECU in there). If nothing else, it would make a good paperweight. $50 for the ECU

I don't see GPL in that lot, Mozz. Say it ain't so... RFactor (the original one) has an R34 GTR patch. Also lots of Aussie tracks including Lakeside, Amaroo, Bathurst (the 3 I've driven IRL) plus Eastern Ck, Surfers (old one and the street track), morgan pk, warwick farm, wakefield, Symmons plains, Darwin, Camberra, Melb GP, Townsville, Winton, Longford, Calder, Oran Pk, Phillip Island, Sandown, QR as well as a host of NZ tracks. Best thing is they're all free - no stupid monthly fees just to keep playing.

I've thought about making up a set of these for my track car. Given mine is already very nose heavy, I'm reluctant to add any more weight to the front. However, if they offer a reasonable improvement, I might reconsider. Wonder how much effect they'd have if you already have a weld-in cage?

Don't use lube and thread lock together in the same place. Thread lock on threads will lube them when you tighten them, then will set to lock threads. Lube under the heads will allow torque to be converted to bolt tension. If using lock and lube you need to ensure that you use the correct torque value (usually 20% less than dry values). This is very important otherwise you will strip bolts.

I have quite a bit of 90mm2 (equivalent to 000 gauge AWG) and 35mm2 (equivalent to 2 gauge AWG) insulated flex cable for sale. These are ideal for battery relocation, jumper leads, or high power wiring applications, including welding leads. The 35mm2 cable is suitable for shorter runs of battery or earth cable (less than a metre) and the 95mm2 is suitable for anything you can throw at it. This cable has been used – it came out of a dragline rewire about 8 years ago. The big stuff was armature cable for the 1300hp DC motors, and the small stuff was field cabling. It was all in anaconda 3 core cable, from which I’ve stripped the metal anaconda protective sheathing. The insulation is black on all the cable Selling the 95mm2 cable for $7.00 a metre, and the 35mm2 cable for $2.50 a metre. This is dirt cheap compared to what you’d pay new (not much more than scrap value). It is flex cable, meaning that it is made with a large number of fine conductor wires, making it very flexible and vibration resistant. Perfect for automotive use. I will cut this cable to length, and you can supply your own lugs (can be bought at any electrical supplier like Haymans, CNW, etc.) I haven't got any photos, but can get some if anyone is interested. At this stage, I think I have about 60m of the 95mm2 cable, and around 30m of the 35mm2 cable Pick up Gold Coast QLD< or I can post, but at nearly 1kg/m for the big stuff, it could become quite expensive to post. PM or post here for details

I wish that Gumtree would do that

Yeh I'm far from an expert as well - probably know just enough to be dangerous. Was just interested to hear opposite strategies between gravel and tarmac. They certainly have their differences, so it's feasible that what works for one doesn't work for the other. Gravel also has other limitations to the suspension design (essentially the best rally setups are quite soft, with lots of suspension travel - always try to keep 4 wheels on the ground). On smooth tracks, a lot of that doesn't matter.

I can see the reasoning behind that, but it still seems counter intuitive to me in that you are artificially loading up the rear end to prevent it from squatting. I think that the benefits of higher COG will be offset by the artificially hard rear suspension due to the AS. I know for certain that in a gravel car you want the rear end fairly soft, and when the first S13 rally cars were being built, there was a lot of concern about the anti squat in S14's, hence a reluctance to go to S14. Not sure whether it's the lack of grip overall on gravel, or the rougher surface demanding a more supple suspension setup, but there isn't any proven benefit of AS on gravel that I'm aware of. If it has been shown to work on tarmac, then fair enough - hence my original question.

How do you go with anti-squat on a circuit car? I know that the gravel cars do what they can to eliminate it, as it compromises traction in the loose stuff (they rely on squat to get weight transfer over the back). Is this the same on tarmac, or does it not matter as much?

Not true Make bleeding a little more fiddly, but hardly very difficult. If you know how to bleed brakes, you know how to bleed hydro h/b's. People have been running them successfully for decades. Yes, there are better hyd handbrake options, but inline systems aren't the evil that people make them out to be.

Good to see these idiots have finally seen the light. Now it just needs more VTEC and it will be unbeatable. Aw yisss!!

Dunno about tarmac, but gravel guys definitely do life components, mainly based on failure history. Two of my own personal examples; rear trailing arms in EG / EK Civics crack after a while. Welding them up lengthens their life, but you still need to plan to replace them. Axles in early rotaries were the same. The 24 spline stuff would twist - not a matter of "if", rather "when". Most guys running spherical bearing strut tops plan to replace them regularly, because the sub-optimal design causes them to flog out prematurely, no matter how expensive. Where I have no history to go on, I crack test. If you're bolting something unproven into a race or rally car, you need to plan to inspect it regularly (whether that be after each event, 3 events, 12 events, whatever). If inspection is difficult, or inconclusive, plan to replace it periodically.

Scheduled replacement interval. Work out how long you expect it to last, then replace them at an appropriate time (preferably before they fail). unfortunately, you need some failure history to be able to work out an appropriate life. It is possible to crack test the items that are likely to snap (I have an MPI crack tester) and you can inspect the spherical bearings for wear. The latter is an easy check you can do, but unless you have access to the right people / equipment, crack testing becomes dearer than outright replacement.

You guys DO realise this has been discussed ad infinitum http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272151-good-tow-cars/

I don't mind the look of it, and I reckon it will be a decent performer (but then again I'm a Honda fanboi) The biggest problem as I see it is that the original NSX was such a surprise when it hit the market - nobody expected the levels of performance from it. That's probably the main reason it's gained the level of notoriety / status it has. Now that the element of surprise is gone, everybody is expecting another giant killer. If it achieves this, then it's a case of "yeh, so what"? If it doesn't deliver giant killing performance, then it will be remembered as a dud. Not an easy task.

Only thing about spherical joints (apart from cheapo ones sometimes flogging out very quickly in certain applications) is that they generally aren't allowed in IPRA - if you decide to head in that direction. If it's just a track toy / WTAC toy then go your hardest. The beauty of spherical joints is that they let the suspension move the way it was intended, so under load your geometry remains where it's supposed to be.

Yeh I thought that might be the case. The R31's had them, but I figured that Nissan had dropped the design in later models. In that case, the caliper rebuild will be relatively straightforward. If OP were in QLD I would happily rebuild them.