coupe72001

I'd wager that you are looking at a standard C210 downdraft Nikki carby model DAH342, or maybe a Hitachi carby model DAF342. I doubt anyone would have bothered collating tuning specs, as neither is exactly a performance carby. For an L28 you can get manifolds to suit the following: - Single Holley - Twin SU - Twin downdraft weber/Dell Orto/Solex/Mikuni - Triple sidedraft weber/Dell Orto/Solex/Mikuni I'd move away from the Nikki/Hitachi and onto pretty much anything else. A complete twin SU round top set up off a 240Z might give you best bang for your buck. There are always some going on eBay USA and Hybridz if you can't find anything locally.

My C210 also 15 by 7 with a very small amount of offset (can't remember how much) and I just clear the lip of the rear guard... and I mean just. There's heaps of room up front. The car is slightly lowered all round by approx 3 to 5 cm from standard. Nothing scrubs.

The busted calliper that I just pulled off the car measures 110mm - they probably came off an r30 hatch. The set that I just chucked on the car are also stuffed, Ill measure when I remove them, but they are probably also 110mm.

I have a box of rear callipers all in different states of disrepair and found there are a couple of different piston diameter sizes (to my surprise). For the life of me I don't know which calliper has come from which model car. Oddly they all seem to take the same shape brake pad, but according to the bendix website there are some subtle differences: 280zx brake pads have a small metal tab, whereas the R30 stuff is the same shape with no tab. What the tab does (if anything) is beyond me - as the pad with the tab seems to fit the big/small piston callipers anyway. In short - it seems you can entirely mix and match calliper parts and pads except for the pistons/wheel cylinder kits. I have no idea what's going on with my calliper's death with. After some time with them on the car there is a scraping sound, and when I grab hold of the calliper there is play in it. You can actually rattle the thing back and forth even though it's firmly bolted to the diff carrier - so maybe I am bending/damaging the two pistons the callipers slides back and forth on. I've replaced discs and pads (and cylinder kits) but still seem to eat the callipers at an unholy rate.

No, but I am often in this position myself seeing I chew through rear callipers myself for some odd reason. I'd hit ebay (USA) and search for remanufactured 280zx series 2 callipers: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AUTOCOM-PSC-Rebuilt-Unloaded-Brake-Caliper-REAR-LEFT-22-00516L-Nissan-280ZX-/251137842443?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a78fb5d0b&_uhb=1#ht_1468wt_1164 They should suit your needs.

Clean the carb, rebuild with carb gasket kit, drain the tank, rinse the tank with fresh fuel, drain the tank, reassemble... you'll be sweet, and the carby kits aren't too expensive on ebay.

Agreed. You are likely to eat a standard Torona 6 in terms of handling, power, braking and fuel economy.

Yes... might need some more details about the car to give you anything like a coherent answer. Is it standard other than the L28? Enormous differences are to be found between standard and modified C210's.

Actually, I didn't quite read your post right. So to get this straight, you got defected, Vic Roads/RTA didn't know of any such defection, so you declared your plates lost/stolen etc and got plates with new letters and numbers. When the police pulled you up again you weren't in defected Skyline ABC-123 you were in not defected Skyline XYZ-789. It worked because the police defect only lists registration number, not VIN or engine number. That's genius: if I try it on, Ill definitely be cleaning up my car some anyway. I'd hate to get redefected again. It sucks.

Either way, my car is definitely overdue for a good once over. I don't want it to generate more negative attention.

In a strange twist, I called Vic Roads and asked them about my car. They said that the officer who issued the defect to me, has not contacted Vic Roads to list the car as defected. As far as they were concerned they have nothing at all on file to say my car is currently defective, and as such they have no plans to cancel my registration at the end of the 28 day notice period. So, if I were to turn up at Vic Roads tomorrow with a RWC, their response would be 'huh, what's this for?' The guy at Vic Roads recommended to obey the conditions of the defect notice and turn up with the defect notice, RWC and car, so they can check that all the work required on the notice as been completed. I argued that according to the Vic Roads website I only need to bring the car in if there is a defect notice on the windscreen, (there is a odd loophole that if you replace the windscreen for RWC they don't need to see the car.) However the Vic Roads guy was not convinced. I'd be interested to see what would happen if neither the officer or I ever supply details of the defect to Vic Roads. I have a strong suspicion that the car would simply remain registered.

Yep, modified to buggery. Wouldn't be so bad if I had actually kept all the factory parts!

Excellent news. If only I could sort a RWC for mine so easily!

As Socs says, pull the control stalk towards you to flash your high beams. As soon as you release the control stalk it goes back to centre and the high beams go off again. If you push the stalk away from you it should stay in position and the high beams should stay on, and you should get a blue light on your dash. First, replace the fuse. Then, you can test if the inner sealed beams (high beam) are dead by unplugging the cables at the back of the high beam and swapping them over to your (outer) low beams. If the low beams work when you pull on the control stalk then you know that the switch and fuse etc are all fine, it's just the sealed beam that has given up. The sealed beams from memory are a generic item from Bursons/ebay etc (5 and 3/4 inch?) and only three screws to remove and replace. Good luck.

Ace. Thanks for the info guys. Off to answer my PM now. D

Looking at Nostalgic Car magazine from Japan, you'll see that many their have taken the GT model and swapped the L20 for the L28, and gone for triple carbys. I'd imagine this is because neither love nor money could source an original GTR/S20 GTR engine. There is also a very detailed local GT/L28 build taking place at present, documented on the Japanese Nostalgic Car forum. As above, prices for even the GT model C10 will be extraordinary. There was one kicking around on ebay for $40,000 odd.

First up I am going to hit a mechanic and find out exactly what needs doing for a RWC. Then Ill run the numbers and decide if it's worth it. I've still got full rego till 11 2013! Also, I need to meet a club scrutiniser and find out how far the car is off club rego.

Lol! I am actually a NSW boy originally - maybe I need to head home for a bit! Adz do I need a RWC even for club reg? I thought the club scrutiniser got the final say on whether a car was eligible for club rego. Although Im not bothered about putting the car on club reg, shelling out for a daily driver is a bit of a pain. I need to be able to get to work quickly at all kinds of odd hours, and have limited parking around home.

I'm in a terrible quandary actually. I have no real idea which things will/won't pass RWC without engineering. Similarly, I have no idea what an engineer will pass/fail, or how much they will want for their time. There are a bunch of smallish jobs (the list really adds up quickly though) that I definitely need for RWC, and that's before I start attending to the many backyard modifications like carbys, exhaust, suspension, wheels, brakes, etc. Ill hit a mechanic and find out what exactly they'll want changed/engineered, but I don't see a RWC happening in the 28 day time limit for anything less than a staggering sum of money. Probably my realistic options are beg a scrutiniser for club plates and buy a daily, find a seriously crooked mechanic who'll do a dodgy RWC, or sell/part out. I can temporarily swap some parts from another project for the purposes of the RWC, but run the risk of getting defected again when I change back to modified.

Too low, too loud and worn tyres up the inside of the rears. They had a special stick to measure ride height, and used an iphone to measure db at 3000 rpm. Tyres failed a visual inspection and they also noticed the diff had leaked some fluid around the drainage plug. Whoopee doop. The problem is that on top of the minor faults noted (and the $325 fine) I need to produce a roadworthy certificate within a month. This will require a mountain of standard parts (in roadworthy condition) that I haven't owned nor even seen at wreckers, for years.

Well, it was bound to happen sooner or later. My white C210 has finally been defected. It's a loooooooooooooooooooooooooooong way from roadworthy unfortunately, so it's future doesn't look very bright. Oh well.

First set I've ever seen where the reverse lens isn't cracked!

Lol at 'no 240k coupe included in sale' Poor bastard must have got 100 enquiries last part he advertised.

I'm using a one man bleeder (hose with a ball valve in the end). Normally I've got away with leaving the bleeder nipple open and just pumping away, but I suppose that is with some fluid already in the lines. I guess for completely dry lines I'd have to use your method Artz. If it stops raining for a bit Ill test some of the suggestions out!

Just ebayed vacuum bleeder. Never knew they existed, but now I have one in the post. Out of interest, by applying pressure to the reservoir do you mean find something the same diameter as the inside of the reservoir and compress the brake fluid down the lines, like a syringe? Also will see if I can get flow by running the car as an experiment.