coupe72001

That's just bizarre... but will give it a go for sure! Cheers

This is almost too embarrassing to admit to, but I have failed to bleed the brakes on a (rough) project car. I replaced rear wheel cylinders, brake master cylinder, and front callipers with new items and filled master cylinder with brake fluid. I cracked open the nipple on the furthest rear wheel, started pumping the brake pedal and... nothing. I can't get the bloody brake fluid to travel down the brake lines to escape from the wheel cylinder nipple at the drum. Worse, I actually have the same problem with the clutch. I have replaced clutch master and slave cylinders, and also the line between the two, and for the life of me I can't get the fluid to drain down the reservoir to the bleeding nipple. I can't even blame corrosion in the line - it's new from end to end! Err... suggestions. Shame to have done all this work only to still not have brakes and clutch.

SMS sent. Which state are you in?

I have no garage! *sobs!* But have a friend with country property if push really comes to shove. You can hide it away for a few years till the nostalgia becomes unbearable. You know it's going to happen!

Holy crap Dennis, say it isn't so.

Are you using the standard four blade fan? A nice slim line thermo fan would probably do the trick.

How come? Where is it fouling?

Damn... was that advertised on Ozdat for a song a while back? Kicking myself for not checking their classifieds more often. Looks very naice at any rate.

So, I got the car to run using a hot wire from + on battery to + on coil. I cleaned the carby well, and dumped the sludge and exchanged it with oil. I replaced filters as well. However, I still can't get the car to run without the hot wire. I don't have 12V on the red/black wire that runs from ignition switch to + on the coil when the switch is in the 'on' position. I cleaned up fuses and links etc and then actually tested the switch with a multimeter and couldn't make a circuit with the key in the 'on' position. Maybe the switch is from another model Datsun and the logic is wrong. More likely my logic is wrong.

It's a 240K. Not having much luck getting the brake light in the dash to come on under key, although it is 'running' kind of... I pulled apart the ignition barrel and tried starting with a screw driver but as soon as the key is released all the way to ON it's an instant stall. If I turn the switch to start, then release it halfway to ON it runs (seemingly not off the starter, but under own power), but ON is a no go. Fuses and fusible links (and wiring I guess) sounds about right Gordie, hopefully there is a dud in there. Will start swapping. Hanging out to carby clean/oil change, but it's a bit easier with the car running. Fingers crossed.

Oil is gross, but I wanted to get it running prior to flush. Carby is probably made of spiders and dirt, but I thought it would fire, then just run like rubbish. I'll dump some cleaner in a can into it and see how we go. I have a handful of other carbies I can try as well. I think among other things that there is actually a problem with the ignition barrel. The car actually sounds like it's running, but when you release the key (to on) you get an instant stall. Anyone got a spare barrel I can test with? PM me and we can sort something out.

I am trying to start an L24 that's been in a barn for a long time. It cranks like a champ but won't fire. I appear to have excellent spark at the coil and plugs. The fuel pump appears to be pumping fuel when I turn the key and the carby inspection window shows the carby is halfway full of fuel (topped up with new fuel). I have checked the timing, and with number one at TDC the cam sprocket notch is lined up with the timing marker on the head. Err... what have I missed? A bunch of bent valves is all I can think of - Ill have to do a compression test when I have a helper. Other suggestions?

There's a facebook group who may be able to help with parts. Have you already tried tightened up your steering box?

If the car is immaculate, stock down to the wheels, AM radio, no speaker holes cut in it, and an L engine of some type, and still the original colour you should see 10, with the car bound to end up in a shipping container for Saudi-Kuwatia via the UAE. If you convert to RB, mag wheels, CD player in the console etc expect to maybe see 5, with an Australian buyer... The exception to all this is if you go so completely over the top and end up with something exceptional like the kid K RB 240K (the black one): http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread34457-9.html but by then of course you'll have spent way more than 10 anyway.

: 0 You found a mint 240k and are asking if it's rare? Yes. Due to very high overseas demand, especially for the sedan, it is now a rare and increasingly pricey car to get hold of in Australia. Not that this is likely to be your number one concern, but the RB conversion is likely to sink the value of the car compared to leaving it as a tweaked L. There are plenty of brake and suspension mods (search here, classic z cars, ozdat), but again, don't expect to see much of a return for your money. As a tip I'd shelve any original parts you remove from the car. I've recently been buying back stock parts that I let go years ago, and it sucks a bit! Get some photos up, and good luck with it!

You can also approach NDSOC, who are based in Melb.

Nice save Steve! Silver one doesn't look to bad under all that dirt!

It's a sedan. Well, god rest it's soul, it was a sedan. It would have been a nice enough restoration project at one point, till someone put punched holes in it with some type of agricultural equipment. Still, floor and firewall good to go if you've found rust. Good to see that you have been released from the curse of Princess Sparkles.

It's a c110

I have a free 240K chassis for anyone who wants it. No rust in floors or sills, a little in the quarter panels. The roof is dented. Unfortunately, you get nothing but the chassis: no (salvageable) panels, bumpers, engine, box, interior, suspension, wheels, trim. Obviously it'll need to be winched onto a truck. Be quick or it goes to scrap. Pick up in Melbourne. Cheers, D

They are seriously sexy... but I'm not man enough to cut my guards!

Ace. Good luck and let us know how you go. D

Also, you car looks great. D

Going back to Feb, how did you get on fitting the radiator. I see the bottom outlet is angled up, rather than straight out. Did the hose go on ok, and which model was the radiator designed for? Where'd you get it? Sorry for spamming you with questions, if you hadn't already guessed, I'm also keen to upgrade radiators, but there isn't much off-the-shelf stuff for c210/240k.

OP paid $80,000 for car, earns 3,000 in six weeks, so that's $500 per week and is he's 22. The way I see it even if it included the purchase cost, he dedicated every cent he earned for 3.076 years to his car. Or, he has spent 50 cents in the dollar every day since his 16th birthday. Either way, that's commitment people.