jeffworld2

10-12 track days a week huh? thats a very long week :S if you build it to take it you will still wear it out. thats racing

0 just happens to be normal air.. you havent disconnected the line have you/

hey brad will take those wheels if they are 17x9 or so.. pm sent

ah crap if you dont need the runners let me know! saves you postage

Hi Im actually after the runner type part of the gtr plenum, between throttle bodies and head.. that included?

WHY lhd> one side bigger than the other?

I'll take the wheels please if they are 9" or bigger, cant see from the pic where in sydney are you?

where are you anyway? im parting mine out if you want random stuff

as far as tracking an r33 gtst goes... Take everything out of the car. strip it all and dont look back. Cage it, find a spare rubbish dash and cut it up to suit, either keep or sell your good one suspension wise, sit the thing 80-100mm off the ground and fix the camber at the rear. i wouldn't really bother with any other "adjustable" bits for a while. Just get it aligned properly and practise driving brakes brakes brakes!! I only ever had standard calipers with dot6 fluid, slotted rotors and braided lines and QFM race pads. I would suggest moving straight to something more serious as there is a lot around these days. This was fine for my sissy driving however, and i was able to outbreak the tyres easily a good seat and helmet and you will have a fun car. you dont need much power to go very fast

nice legs Brad. Glad you got that sorted. Looking good. but yeah, it was like that selector fork was missing the selector parts, they were pretty smashed

I dont think there are many diy carbon bonnets in oz. the flexibility comes from it not being as strong as thick or strong as steel. Most glass or carbon bonnets will flex if you let them. put pins in and it cant flex

very keen on these wheels, have a few types at home in 33 gtst offset if you would like to trade but i wouldnt mind buying them outright. I dont need the tyres unless they are semi's or better

i will happily take the cooler piping where in syd are you?

my twin turbo gtst is for sale if your interested! it is a 25 head with a gtr exhaust side

if you look around for the greddy instructions in pdf, you will see they remove absolutely everything water hose wise and run a hose from the nipple at the back on the heater hose to the nipple at the front near the thermostat pretty easy

there are photos of mine and other cars with only two bonnet pins going down the straight at oran park at the sau day with the leading edge of the bonnets a good 10cm above the headlights in the middle. we now use more pins lol. yes it is because they are flexible, not because they are light. take the frame off a metal bonnet and it will do the same thing. fg or cf will always be more flexible for the same amount of material

looking for the section that bolts on between the head and throttle bodies, runners i spose? pm me if still available

there is no carbon fibre bonnet on the market that is as strong as the original metal. you will find they are quite flexible and thats why you need bonnet pins to stop them lifting on the edges in the wind. They crack when they bend too much, often around the top of the radiator area. If it is pinned down properly it wont flex and will last forever. fibreglass and carbon will crack or tear in a crash too, unlike a metal bonnet which will fold and bend. don't go thinking they are stronger is all im saying lol. here are some pics of what track speeds do to bonnets

mine dissapeared with the fitment of bigger (again) dumps, and the enlargement of the hot side cooler piping while keeping the smaller cold side piping. I have completely custom piping, no BOV, and two massive pods. My idea was to dampen it with the intercooler and im very happy

just put a clamp on it, at both ends if you like. Its not pointing to anything more serious than you running 1 bar in a 20 year old car. Clamp it and you will be fine.

yes definitely keep posting If doing it for clearance, be aware the bit that fouls is usually the front edge of the timing case cover, about where your vent thing is. put as much bracing as you can while leaving it thin or unbraced at that point. interested in a pic of my CF bonnet underneat? sort of shows what im trying to say all in all the more bog you do the smoother it will be... my cf bonnet is rough but i wont fill it because then it will be heavier lol. I'm impressed so fdar and looking to see the end result. good job

hello i will bring the thing out

It amazes me how thick some people are. next time you fill up, read the pump and see how many litres, not dollars you put in. when you've paid get back in your car and press the trip button before you start it. next time you fill up.. read the trip, then see how many litres it took you. eg., i always fill up at around the 300km mark, and always put in about 33L, unless I had a track day, then i might do 150 and put in 30L So we can see it takes me about 11L to do a 100 km of normal driving.. thats what you should be comparing. If I told you i had 300 to a tank before i fill up, that would be useless. If i told you i would probably get 500 a tank, that would be guessing.. which is also useless

I have RIPS plenum here i dont need if anyone is interested

what do you guys mean by angle up the sides? i made it paralell to the ground so it didnt cause any drag