jeffworld2

shoosh dave. no1 knows about the garage lol

The knock sensors were put there by nissan, you just never had anything displaying what they say before not in the slightest bit accurate. if its a high number, you can almost sasume your knocking, but not necessarily. if its low however you can probably assume you arent

sorry nismo! lol hope all goes well

i would check at the rear of the motor on the firewall, the heater water lines have a valve on them that is operated by a cable from in the cabin. check said cable is still over its pin, or you will never get that valve open. its not that your coolant isnt hot, its that it isnt going through. If all is good there, maybe something unplugged somewhere. if it was working fine before, good luck lol

block it off completely, no risk of them not passing you . you can reinstall it later if you are so inclined. as for pod, you will have to sort out a box on that one they would usually only let through a stock airbox

tom come past and i will put a real boost gauge on it. the standard one would indicate 10-12 psi at about number 5-6. 7 is a tad more than 14. the problem is though that it probably isnt accurate. I will put in a temporary boost gauge and we can et it up, then put everything back how it was if you want.

i have a rag that demists the window. ta-da

DO NOT open any air con pipes without getting it degassed, there is a lot more than you think in there, and it is quite bad for you. once its degassed, you can remove the core in front of the radiator, the belt driven compressor on the side of the block and its large bracket to it, the hoses to the firewall etc. In the cabin, you remove the entire dash pad and unbolt whatever you like. The fan behind the glovebox, the cooling core next to it and if you modify your coolant system a bit you can remove the heater core behind the radio too. You may as well remove all th plastic ducting etc too as it doesnt weigh much, but it also isnt doing anything once you remove the fan. You can also disconnect the control unit and clean up any wiring too. Take the fuses/relays out if you want too. above where the fan was on the passenger side is a large hole where all the air used to come in from outside, i was running mine open and you always get a nice airflow through which is good for hot track days, but i have since made a removable cover to save my gf from the relentless wind lol.

i would stop wasting time and put a replacement engine in. if the bottom end is gone, rings/piston/whatever, if you are only after high 200's i would just shove a *new motor in rather than wait a few months for a rebuild

its more to do with getting bits from everywhere than getting "cheap". your catback was fine with the standard front pipe, and the jjr front is fine with the standard catback. glad you found the problem cut it shroter and you are done

if you still have power fc, set injectors back to 100 and see if it runs at all. Can also do a sensor check with the fc

those afr arent so bad not fantastic but not too lean except maybe right at the top, but i bet you dont drive around at full throttle so they are a bit useless if it didnt fail at high rpm. you could have been really lean at idle/cruise/etc. you sure its a melted piston? have you pulled it down?

perhaps there is a temp sensor d/c or hanging down somewhere it shouldnt be. only one i can think of would be if the radiators been out the sender on it. dont know anything about 350gt ecus and what effect something like this would have though, but its something to have a quick look for. maybe air intake temp too? good luck

often a header tank is put in when you cannot run a regular radiator cap, either it fouls the bonnet because its a larger radiator or you moved it forward etc etc. If you can run a radiator cap, you dont really neeeeeeed a header tank assuming everything else is fine

i got a cat.

where are you located? im interested in sydney

wherever its leaking from is the culprit... duh may or may not be the water pump. it could be just a split hose or cracked radiator have a good look

yes alien! havent seen you for a while mate

good work dave. nice to see you away from the drift movies long enough

put earmuffs on it. for sure my car is loud as a truck when im going down a hill on the gears not the brakes. ive got no idea what db level they are set to monitor, but i can guarantee most of us are over it in the right circumstances

i bought mine from glenfield station, so they are around.

hope so lol

i will take strut brace if still there?

sounds like an alarm problem actually. If it does abbroad minded femaleely nothing, like not even attempt to kick over, then its your immobilizer. try checking around if you didnt know you had one. Most skylines do these days as its very hard to get insurance without one

+next time you have it apart, dont just check them, clean the connections with contact cleaner and maybe a bit of a rub failing that, its still a wiring problem somewhere. good luck