Jump to content
SAU Community

jeffworld2

Members
  • Posts

    1,225
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by jeffworld2

  1. anything synthetic around 10/40 will be fine fuel filter is a bit harder, but basically they are all the same a generic one ould be fine if you couldnt find a nissan dealer ove there. I'm sure that a nissan dealer with spare parts catalogue could help you out. oil filter is the same. you want a z145a or equivalent
  2. i'll pul it out for you but your putting it back in
  3. 0 screws mate. there are 2 L shaped plastic pins which are on the underside. they are the pins for the hinges, pull them out and your glovebox is free. dont even have to empty it. its a 10 sec thing
  4. maybe it would sit at the right height if you chopped the series 1 reo. remove the lower section and bolt it on if it looks like it will work. it will definitely hold the bar at the right height Its just as illegal to chop the reo as it is to put one on from a different car series 2 can have a smaller reo because they have airbags i figured
  5. there are 2 pins that are the hinges. pull them out. thy are designed to sort of pop out towards the centre of the glovebox
  6. aha that may be the fake one... there is one spot which is very similar but it wont go in properly, the actual thing is very close but a bit higher up. I think it may be a case of take it directly up 5 cm or so. the pump needs to go in a bit crooked, then once its down the bottom you can pull it up and into the bracket, thats why one prong thing is a bit longer than the other on some. i remember doing thse now and although its great if everything goes well, sometimes you just cant get it in- like all good things in life lol
  7. needs to get air through the afm i beleive. all i know is i take my pipe off to stop ppl nicking the car, cause it wont start/idle without that little guy
  8. 9krpm: i dont think your talking about the same thing. Mine does not choo-choo when overboosting past 2 bars, it choo choos when sitting on 70km in 4th gear. under boost, the engine is taking all the air in so it sounds like a normal car. I think your idea may have some merit tho i might take the filter off altogether one day and see. my motor is a 25 with twin gt-ss. the intake is basically both turbos fed through a single afm, so there is only one pod atm. I am using an rb25 power fc so i need to keep the afm at this point. i am very happy with the tune so would only switch to a non-afm ecu so i can get a better intake happening to get rid of this noise, which i cant really justify doing. $$ if there is any advice out there of how it can be helped tho im very interested. Im not afraid to do some work but i cant really change to dual afm or map.
  9. its a bit hard to actually see it, but the whole assembly drops down toward the front end of the tank. the bracket slides into a bit of plastic near the top and the pump hangs down to the bottom. its not the pump that is connected, but the very top of the bracket itself. post a pic of what you took out so we can tell you what happened i dont have pics. its likely that your pump is just swinning around hanging off the fuel hose. it will be very noisy when it hits the side or if it rises above the fuell level.
  10. how does one "balance" the intake manifolds? do you mean similar to tuned length etc. or do you mean a pipe crossing between? mine is also a steam train lol
  11. i told you the power steering would scare you!! LOL good news anyway. I'm back in syd too so give me a yelp if you want. i assume your asleep now lol. I look forward to hearing it. does it sound anything like mine or totally different? hows your exhaust situation too
  12. 1. FPR and spare 2. 3. goes around back of motor to the turbo 4. 5. dont want to give wrong info about the others, but they are all water lines it seems
  13. perhaps safc could be sending the wrong output to that injector? its easy enough to disable the safc and do same again. weird problem tho. cant beleive it was fuel my bet was on water lol
  14. fill the steering fluid while someone else turns it back and forth with car on and wheels on the ground. easiest way. power steering does funny things with air in it. A lot of cars are a bit noisy on full lock, but if you can see the fluid dissapear, then the system is not as full as it looks. If you have a look how power steering works it would make a lot of sense
  15. the one in the second photo is just the diagnostic port for nissan to use. the first pic i cant see anything
  16. sounds like a bit of shit got in there thats all. i wouldnt worry over it. there is a very good reason for removing the earth off the battery when working on a car, its nothing to do with the ecu, and more to do with having the head off, dropping a screwdriver onto the starter motor and watching the engine spin without oil only thing that could really go wrong is if you didnt put all the cooler pipes and vacum lines on right, and that would not have fixed itself
  17. should be exactly the same as the r33. buy 5L of oil and leave .5-.8 in the bottle. filter is probably z145a or equivalent get an oil filter wrench from your local shop if you cant budge the filter. you will get oil there, but if you get a big enough oil pan, you can cover that area and the sump plug easily so theres no need to spill it. open the sump plug, and watch the oil run out. when it slows down a lot/finishes, take the filter off, but there will still be oil in the filter. dont lose the sump plug or little washer. its not too bad a job have fun
  18. because you werent there paul, we thought the party was over also the cool people went to wakie any ideas for this month?
  19. easiest way to fix this is in the engine bay. undo the two 10/12 mm bolts on the coupling between the steering wheel shaft and the rack. put it wherever you want ta-da
  20. torque settings on these bolts arent too important.. just tight it up until the nuts stop, then go 1/4 or1/2 to cinch the gaskets. your biggest problem will be removing it without snapping any. just dont be a he-man and use plenty of wd40 or similar to crack them
  21. or he didnt wantr to charge you labour to do somthing simple?? i know a lot of tuners who are happy to stay off the tools like gteer said. they are for using dynos and computers, and having a vast knowledge of how engines work under load etc., not working out how to stickytape something 'solidly' its like asking your boss to fetch lunch also, had they taped it, and you found it one day, im sure you would think how dodgy they were installing your fc. for the recod, mine is not stuck in at all, it just has the kick panel holding t in. has been so for years
  22. just make sure the radiator is still full. top it up at the radiator first and then fill the overflow. i assume if its not leaking it just wasnt bled properly when refilled. i wouldnt bother doing anything more than filling it again and see what happens. if its not actually leaking, there probably isnt anything sinister. unless that brown gunk is the hole-filling crap
  23. wow just had a look... some great shots of anna's car doing silly things, good sequence of jay's car too. and plenty of me hehe thanks a lot andrew, i hope you can repeat this effort for us next time.
  24. mine was rebuilt with new factory pistons and race bearings, and is holding 1.4 bar through twin hks gt-ss quite well. has seen a fair bit of track duty too
×
×
  • Create New...