jeffworld2

o2 sensors are 3 wire. should i grab an r33 gtr ecu to check? it's actually a 33 motor anyway

i do have consult but my laptop is dead, which makes it a bit tricky. At normal running temp the coolant is 83degrees, but i havent checked it when cold. The o2 sensors were swinging, but i'm only seeing one value representing both on the software i was using. can you recommend some software? It's a factory ecu but i was planning to go nistune as its past its limits as is. should i get it running as best i can or would nistune solve this issue properly?

Hi all My gtr will start but not accelerate if you connect both o2 sensors. If hot and i reconnect everything is fine. If i disconnect one (either) it will start and run ok when cold. I have been driving around with just the rear connected. Does the rb26 ecu use one when the other is unplugged or does it just skip closed loop all together? Is there a fault with one of these or am i just not going into cold start enrichment and should be looking at temp sensors or idle control

Yeah they are shuffling, they were doing the same thing when i had them on the 25. I was trying to find out if there is a better place to feed the bov's from. Motor has only done a few hundred k's so i havent really worked it yet and im just chasing some driveability issues, although it is getting better everytime i hop in. This is the only thing i can think of as being an issue. Still boosts fine and everything but i haven't really checked for boost leaks etc.

HI I have a gtr here without the tank beneath the plenum, the two hoses feeding the tank originally are going to the brake and clutch boosters. The FPR is set up as normal The PCV valve is set up as normal I currently have the BOV's running off a fitting between the vacum tube and the PCV, as i had seen some run their ecu's from here on map sensors and thought it would be ok. Everything seems fine but i was just wondering if anyone could confirm its ok or suggest something better. I'm worried with PCV open it would have less pressure than needed for the bov's, there is a bit of choo choo train noise at low throttle but that was the same with these turbos on the last motor. Cheers

Thankyou for your help Obviously i prefer local though s o i can just pick up. Let you know if theres nothing here.

Hi Looking for all the boot trim for my gtr, not really fussed on wether its from gtr or gtst tho. Located in sydney and can pick up let me know cheers guys

Yeah boot interior. thanks anyway

Hey pete got any boot bits? Need to trim the 32 gtr for rego apparently

hi i'm looking for all the trim in the boot for a 32, any help?

hey pete guess what, i need more of your shit Is there a difference between the r33 gtr and gtst power steering pumps? I have an r33 GTST one on the bnr32 with the r33 rb26, ( confusing ) just wondering if i should try another bracket or if the whole pump should change. currently it's lined up with the a/c on the balancer so im running off that part of the pulley. I may have a r33 gtst or r32 gtr bracket on there i'm not sure. Cheers buddy

just rang dept of infrastructure and they can sort it out. Pretty easy actually that part.

on the phone just then, girl said i need a blue slip, ctp, and thats it. wtf. I'm on hold now as i convinced her there must be something else... She has now said although it was registered before in nsw i will need the import approval which of course is with the original owner somewhere. >< Apparently i can ring and get it reissued.

Hi Guys I have a gtr imported under the 15 year rule a while ago. This has been off the road for years and was last registered in NSW november 2008. I have put it back together and it is nearing the stage of getting registered again. I need tyres and a quieter exhaust made up which i can obviously organise pretty quickly. I would like to know if i can just drive it to an exhaust place or if i need to trailer it around. I would also like advice on wether or not i need an engineers cert as there are no compliance papers, but the old rego sticker is on the window! Any advice would be good. Thanks in advance

Have for sale a Haltech E11V2 bought through group buy on the forums a while ago, never got that car finished so although it was installed it never turned the motor over. I had kept it for the GTR i am building but won't be done for a while so this needs to go. Comes with air temp sensor, map sensor and plug in loom for rb20/rb25/rb26. Should have an rb25 base map in it from haltech. Halwin disc aswell although i think you can download a newer one anyway. Plenty of instructions included (everything that came with it is still here) asking $900, and located in sydney 0400 604 293

I have the same for sale in Syd if your interested, msg me on 0400 604 293

Hey everyone Looking for the piping between the intakes and the bov's, i have BOV and pipie behind intercooler already but need the parts in the picture. Preferrably in syd so i can pick up. Cheers

Hi I'm chasing the BOV pipes on the turbo side in the engine bay, that splits them to go into the intake pipes. Are you willing to sell these too?

had a single z32 on a twin turbo so i stuck it in the hot side cooler piping, just extended the wiring down. Ran like that for a year and was great as you could do whatever you wanted on the turbo side as far as pulling things apart/changing intakes and it would still fire up halfway through to move around with 0 issues. I do suspect it was leaking a little bit on 1.4 bar as every now and then i would push the sealing square cover thing back in on its rubber

yeah thats what i thought, it just seems to be missing some of the gear. from photos of the factory setup that ive seen it looks like it basically is fed before and returns after the one metal tube in my pic, but that just seems to me to not really guarantee it gets any actually flow, as it would be a more restrictive path than that tube. I guess i could just try it and see if oil temps are controlled or not but its very hard without rego! i might try and check if i have that 2nd fitting you spotted, i dont remember blocking it but was a while ago

hi guys, i have the following setup on my 26, Now i have got a factory water/oil cooler but obviously not much in the way of lines. From this diagram it looks like it doesnt get any dedicated flow, it comes out of and back into the same pipe, is this what really happens? I do not have all the factory gear to put back in but i can make it up out of fittings etc. once i know what im doing. Cheers

if it revs in neutral but dies/struggles under load it is a fuelling issue. It won't be injectors it will most likely be AFM which i know you said you had changed but i would swap with someone for 10 min to test it. If this is not a constant thing but an intermittent problem i would look at wiring for the afm, however if its just every now and then specifically when you put your foot on the accelerator a bit you are looking for a dud wire somewhere as thats when the motor kicks a bit and shakes things up if you have a pod on there and not the standard airbox bolted to the car. Give us a bit more info and we may give some more clues. ECU supplying the wrong fuel can be from vacum leaks meaning afm is inaccurate, it could be when going from closed loop to map etc etc.

Hi Looking for steering column surround for an r32, putting my car back on the road again. please let me know if you have anything. Kick panels too, sun visors... Also looking for a quiet exhaust for the blue slip. cheers

swap afm for a minute with someone else and see what happens if you're still stuck on this

Hey scott will grab that calsonic car off you please Where abouts in syd are you