jeffworld2

i pulled 6 or 7 out of my rb25 with just jap cooler/ filter kit problems that can occur are too much pressure causing leaks etc, but never had a problem.

check all the fuses mate. it is definitely a fuse. if you have things that "sort of" work and things that dont work at all, then there is power in the car its just not getting anywhere. fuses are designed to stop damage to any of the components when the ampage goes to high, so you probably dont have anything to worry about once you change all the fuses you busted. be aware if you remove the fuse for the airbag it will flash at you until you reset it there are other threads on that

Mine is nissan r33 workshop manual, is the same as those pdf's going around. it is very comprehensive for the engine itself, but wont show you how to take dash out or any of the actual useful diy stuff you are likely to do. how often do you need to know torque specs for cams anyway

the online pdf is the same as the book, and is not exactly a haynes style thing. it is engine only, and not really that in depth anyway. does not even include break ups of power steering or a/c even tho they are on the engine... does have all the specs torques etc and capacity of cooling systems and oil. funny thing is, so does the tutorial/faq section

ENGINE/CAR: 33 gtst, rb25det FAILURE: still running, clunking powerless pos tho. pull apart shows very badly scored main bearings. 5 out of 6 lol FACTORS INFLUENCING FAILURE: found what was left of an exhaust manifold bolt that had been drilled out of the head up in there. I assume it was some smaller shavings etc. that caused the damage to the bearings tho. Not sure how it got from the head to the sump?? STATE OF TUNE: just finished turbo swap, previously stock turbo well tuned. just started making noise after 5 min turned back on. COMMENTS: dont lose bolts i guess. can be fixed with just new set of bearings and a good clean, hopefully i will do something else while its out. not a great experience financially but i am learning a lot

ideally you would run the boost controller straight from a nipple on the cooler piping. keep it short and safe it makes sense to run your new gauge from a tee in the factory gauge too.

Thats awesome can i get a shirt anyway

check again to see how much coolant you have, it may have gone down a bit after running a while to get air out. just happens. if you have fresh oil, then a simple check would involve removing the thermostat all together. unbolt the housing and remove it with a flathead screwdriver, then remove the thermostat and put everything back with some new liquid gasket. if it overheats without a thermostat, then there is something pretty wrong with your cooling system.

hi guys i havent paid or handed in a form etc and dont have an engine in the car atm, so am only available to help out at this point but im pretty keen to lend a hand if anything needs doing

had to remove it on an r32 i did, but afterwards it looks like you could reinstall it, once the cooler is already in there. that one was a bit bent tho so may not be the same

hey guys just pulled my rb25 out of the car. recomend to anyone to get an engine balancer, hangs on the crane and allow you to tilt the engine and transmission quite easily. took less than two hours with me having never done it before. honestly was easier than installing a plenum or something. now to see what was wrong with the stupid thing. word to the wise; despite no mention of it in the nissan workshop manual, it is ESSENTIAL to remove the gearstick. would have come straight out if i wasnt fighting with that damn thing

honestly they are all the same. Pick the one that you like the sound of. and note that you can adjust the "tightness" anyway which alters the sound. Always remember plumbacks are legal because they stop your engine from overfuelling on gear changes, whereas an atmospheric bov just keeps the turbine speed up. zippo difference in performance if they are set up properly. but atmo can cause a lot of stalling issues if not setup properly

morton and may have done a bit for me. they always come out perfectly round and balanced despite the dints i put into the soft=ass volks

perhaps you put too much preload on the wastegate?

can use the series 1 ecu. same as power fc you can use on either model. just check it doesnt give you airbag lights or anything

your probably just adjusting the damper. check more for a bush that is totally gone, so when you change forces on it it goes from one end of the hole to the other rather than staying where it is supposed to be stuck. probably a lower arm etc.

have since discovered it slides out as you pull the engine forward, just as i suspected.

i sprayed straight onto it with heatproof paint, havent had a problem after 2 years maybe? i did both sides, only one was bad but i wanted them to be the same colour in the end.

i would say that gauge is not working at all. check the green electrical plug on the drivers side of the radiator. to get to 250 you will need a larger turbo. around 200-220 is the limit of the standard one. you seem to be getting similar ridiculous power as my freak did, i had 220+ on around 10-12 psi. if you keep the standard turbo and are happy with the low actual peak power, it makes for a very very quick streeter as the boost is there from any revs

its either plumb back or atmo. if you want to plumb back you can buy a screw in adaptor thing instead of the trumpet, about $30. it wont really do anything for your car, just change the noise slightly in plumback mode. atmo they are quite loud

if you want good ratios, you need a tune. 02 sensor has little to do with it most of the time. thats why some people run it without that feedback. also the ratios depicted may be inacurate depending on where the wideband is installed in the exhaust and the piping size. any leaks (which many cars have) makes it even more "guessy" 11s is not that rich anyway

so its got to be fully unbolted? dammit. i know it will leak, but i wasnt worried as i cant remove it yet remember thanks for the help guys

yes master cylinder is very different for abs models.

should run at about 78 degrees (water temp) oil temp depends on where your measuring from. anywhere close to the middle of the stock gauge is probably fine, as long as the engine pretty much stays there and doesnt fluctuate too much standard turbos i would run less than a bar, if the engine was rebuilt they cant be far behind. at the same time, i wouldnt do all that without changing turbos anyway, its a bit of a waste.

whats the best way to remove the tailshaft? im removing the engine so dont necessarily need to remove it from the whole car, just get the spline out of the box