jeffworld2

it was fun, i need pics and videos 2. still waiting from the first one ofr pics lol. there is one set of pics up already over on autosprts website, but we should put some on here as i will find it easier awesome awesome fun

think you need to ditch the crossover pipe fi9rst, or the throttlebody is sitting in the cam cover. can someone confirm?

what product do u guys recomend to cut the sort of paint on teazn's front guards? thats what my rear looks like atm. i'm a noob, how it looks off the gun is how it looks forever lol

im ocd about it too, but i have done a lot of intercooler installs, and in testing find that they werent clamped enough despite my best efforts. my own car had a massive boost leak. the problem with boost leaks, is they only happen on boost, so short of removing the bonnet and smashing a window, you just have to check and recheck. i would say half of the cars i had boost leaks in cooler piping, it was actually the turbo outlet hose connector, which you dont even touch in the install. check throttle body too, as some people remove the clamps there every service. sounds like your line to the solenoid is in the right spot. i would consider skipping the solenoid and running off the wastegate to see if its any different, its only one hose connection. also check your silicone hose to the solenoid is not cracked, some of the thinner diameters peel away like a banana when you force them over a connection even if its the right size. unfortunately if it isnt any of this, you may need to get it on a dyno and have a looksee with a pro

stock solenoid is slow at building boost, it opens the gate very early in the piece. If the cooler install is new, i guarantee you have done something wrong. where is your wastegate getting the boost signal from? the kit will luikely have removed the stockpiping that had a nipple for the controller. if this is hooked up wrong, you are running straight off the wastegate. to get good results from a turbotech, you are better off without such a high wastegate spring. if you want 12psi from a 12psi spring, you need a proper gate or ebc. honestly, go over your intercooler install with a 7 or 8 mm ratchet, its free and is a likely problem at this point

next time, buy a 1m vacum hose of the right diameter and run it from the top of the cam cover where the other end connects to, and have the other dangle under the car somewhere or on a cable tie. all that comes out is oily air, not really oil flow type oil. you will notice no performance difference, just an odour all the time until you fix properly. make sure not to have it in front of a tyre or on the exhaust and your set. *TEMPORARY* you wont hurt the motor but will not be helping the environment. you will not have to change oil more frequently, as the tiny bit of oil in this pipe was about to be burnt up with your petrol anyway. racecars dont want motor oil in their petrol because it produces inconsistent octane leading to detonation. if there is a lot of oil coming out, you have much bigger problems than a missing inlet pipe.

If the tune on the ecu is reasonable, i would suggest that your boost curve is not ideal, you need some form of boost control other than the "grounded solenoid" and wastegate spring. even a gated bleed or ball valve will give you a much better spool and fatten up your midrange. if you are on the stock turbo, its not lag. or at least its not the turbo causing the lag. the tune you are using is also not for your car, so you cannot expect it to suit. if you want to make the best of the ecu tune you have you need to make sure your car has everything exactly the same as security's was, and hope that the timing and fuel it spits out are close. what type of ecu is it? if power fc then you need to get it retuned. if some modified version of the stock ecu, if the tune is close enough you can get a decent result because the computer reacts to feedback whereas the fc just does set maps and doesnt adjust constantly.

oh phil... this advice is all over this forum! i have a spare st of coils if your still in the area, havent seen you for a while.

group buy time

splitfires with a spark amplifier should work a treat

anyone know why the r33 dash keeps blowing leds? ive tried a few different sets which are for the gtst's and they all seem to burn. first the one at 80-180km/h then the rest. I dont beleive they are loose or anything im trying to work out whats happening

if its reading around zero, the map sensor (located near the brake booster on the drivers side guard) is open to atmosphere (ie 0 psi) check where your apexi gauge is t'd to, perhaps it isnt tee'd at all.

hey brendan saw you at casula shops not long ago but didnt say hi anyway, give brad a pm, and fit the oil cooler yourself. its the same as changing the filter but you have to mount it somewhere. mine is in front of the drivers wheel. pm me if you want an exhaust cam gear, i have an aerospeed one for cheap if your interested. its not like im far away either. cya

get the neo tuned to run on 91. it will mean a bit less timing, but still same boost and safer power. hope they have tuners there lol

nismo injectors are good for your tuner, perhaps consider 740s. talk to the guy you want to tune it. tomei fuel pump is the easiest possible install and quiet as the stock pump. I just installed one and i'm very happy after having a bosch 040 for a few months. if you get an apexi avcr, you may as well just get the power fc boost control kit off nengun, they are very similar in performance. i would recomend a blitz unit. i will leave the rest for everyoine else to fight over

gains are soley in changing the spark plugs. so no1 has actually done this? if you did it with an aftermarket turbo, where was that water feed from a few people are hanging on this thread lol

2 gtr turbos is not bad on a 25, i have the adaptor plates and parts to do it but the problem is running the engine with 2 afm. i am tossing up between this setup (which came from an rb20dett) and a hks gtrs. 2 totally different choices.

ta da! i knew suggesting something stupid would get a result lol

want to try it? swap out mine for a minute lol. i dont know if we can get them adjusted again tho. according to service manual, it doesnt mention any difference

sounds like no1 knows. he just wants to know where to run the turbo water feed from guys. everything else is covered elsewhere

if it runs but stalls if you take your foot off, warm or cold, its an intercooler hose popped off. if it idles in neutral when warm, and stops only when cold or something, it could be a few things

one in glenfield. send pm if interested. even got full tyre tread

eg. your engine may take 20 psi from a gtss, but will blow with 4psi from a T88H-38GK we cant tell you max boost until you tell us what turbo you want to use

you only need to find a solenoid for the drivers door lock, the passenger door already has one, thats how you lock/unlock it from the button near the power windows. my series 1 only needed this wired up and mounted, then interface with the alarm. took 10 min. As dor the alarm itself, that is quite an involved install if you want to do it properly. i suggest paying a shop to do it. most will do it for 3-400 supply and fit. if its recently imported, ask the importer who they use, mine had a deal going with the local audio/security mob as most insurance policy's need immobilisers these days.

could you please expand on the no reinstall thing, i truly think if you need to register it thats fine but if you cannot even reinstall it after a laptop failure or upgrade, that is trouble.