jeffworld2

you are right in thinking that your ecu is probably not tuned for a stockish car, whatever it had in japan, plus the different fuel in australia, is likely causing the problem. even an atmo bov on the previous tune could cause these sorts of issues at low revs. either way your timing and fuel is out and you should look for a solution, it will likely give better fuel economy too. safc is over rated, it is not the easiest to tune well but you can get a decent result. if you can find a power fc use that. if you are planning a turbo upgrade i would look for a full computer as matt said, otherwise a stocker will be fine with a stock turbo and whatever mods you chuck at it, still making reasonable power safely. you should be able to get a stock ecu for <$100 or free. find someone with a halfcut. if you are planning a turbo upgrade i would look for a full computer as matt said, otherwise a stocker will be fine with a stock turbo and whatever mods you chuck at it

i'm "xizor's mate" nice to meet you all these are easy to install, if anyone is around sydney and wants a hand let me or xizor know. you really could diy quite easily tho.

looks like its a remapped ecu to me.. nissan markings with k sports or whatever rom sticker... if so, it has likely been tuned properly for 100ron petrol, but should be alright on 98 as it likely still has the stock ecu's engine protection systems if it starts to ping. you could always back the timing off a tad at the cas, but probably wont have to. because your ecu is an unknown, you may want to get it on a dyno to check the a/f ratios on both full throttle and regular cruise points to make sure all is in order. the smaller the plug gap, the higher the chance of running like crap at low revs. thats why it is a compromise. In your situation you may find it is in the fuel map tho. try and find like i said some dyno time, or see if anyone with a wideband will help you out for a bit on the road.

possibly it was phil?

topaz, bcpr6e's from anywhere should suit most r33's. If they offer them with a -11 after that code, they are gapped at 1.1, if they offer just bcpr6e it is gapped at .8. same goes for most ngk plugs

i have an r33 gtst, with splitfires now but as a preventative measure not because of any problems. i have run bcpr6es-11, bkr6e, etc etc. the NGK coppers from repco etc. are cheap as chips and go into a lot of hi powered lines. I was under the impression they wear out uicker because they work better (put VERY simply). if you want to have a slight edge on a dyno for example.. one of the tricks is to use the cheapest crap coppers u can find and just replace them afterwards. Iridiums/platinums are a trade off like every thing else in your modified car, u get more life through less performance. there is no upgrade for computers or tv's that say "now featuring Platinum wire insterad of coper/nickel silver!! feel the difference!" one of the only things better at conducting electricity than copper is gold, and i guarantee you will not find gold plugs that are supposed to last more than 10 000 k's. the highly conductive metals are softer, and the only way platinums can attempt to equal the performance of coppers is through crazy tip designs, which are made possible by the stronger metals. on an na or stockish to mild turbo there may not be any difference between the plugs operation. if you cant notice, y not use the cheaper ones?

i have an r33 gtst, gets 300k's from 32-35L. No matter how i drive its always around that. car has 200+kw with powerfc running the show. was similar on stock ecu but with a bit less power obviously lol

i was all ready to go to the previous date, but had to skip this one as it was impossible to change shifts. so while you were out in the sunshine winning prizes, i was slaving away at work... spare a moment for me and show us more pics

i dont know what sb8 is, but i want 10. i was thinking that to have a stockish turbo power figure on 35 psi, and nothing at 10 psi, he has a tiny tiny turbo that he is spinning the crap out of to get the air flow. i think there would be too much heat for it to make any reliable power if that was true, so it must be tuned to run a bit cooler. HOWEVER- ive decided that this isnt feasible (?) now. what he has is a full throttle tune. when he is at lower load points eg. 10psi on the 35psi tune its just not fuelled or timed correctly, and is running crap. still think that it needs to be checked on a dyno. what if there is nothing wrong after all? does it feel quickish on the road or feel like a pintara

if it misses at 1 gap them down, but it should be fine.

you most likely dont need a rebuild. get your car on a dyno at a dyno day or something for $50 instead of guessing from what previous owners have told you, and get a print out of the air/fuel ratios and power curve obviously. compare your curves with some from the rb25 dyno thread and go from there. you may find there isnt much wrong after all, or you may find that the turbo or management is totally wrong and u really are low on power. a retune will sort u out, the microtech is a good thing. changing turbos is a bit harder/ i dont think you have any damage, just a system mismatch

if it is bigger, how come it only seems to flow 97kw of air at 10 psi, whereas a stock one can give 180+ quite easily. either your turbo is not suited to the low boost, or you need to get the microtech tuned properly. sounds like you would be better off with a stock ecu atm if the turbo IS bigger

sounds like its smaller than the stocker

are they interchangeable? i dont see why not. airbag or something may cause problem but engine wise outputs are the same arent they

i have done them both empty and full, and imbetween, im glad i did it emptyish first, as it meant i could actually see the bracket. its not hard at all, but being able to see it will make it alot easier first time. take off the battery earth etc, and remember to fix your fuel level sensor while your in there. they seem to always be dodgy in 33's

i'm in as usual, these are a great day. might bring some "free time" rubber

problem found.. fuel hose between pump and the bracket had disintegrated, replacing with new, all should be good. thats why i wasnt getting any fuel despite pump running. just chasing a new fuel resistant efi hose and that should be that

it was the catalyst for pulling everything apart anyway, and is continuing since. i think i will try a new fuel filter, as the pump takes a full 10 seconds longer to prime the lines before starting, this is suggesting i have a flow problem? pump is a bosch 040

hi, my rb25 was hesitating/sometimes missing around load point 13-14 at 2.5, then again at about 3 and again at 3.5 (approx). I changed spark plugs taking out a set of 2-3 k km old bcpr6e and putting in some bkr6's, and the problem was still there. i already have splitfires, so i thought it must be the tune on the powerfc. After installing the stock ecu back in, it was initially almost fine, ie not revving smooth but not missing completely, so i put this down to the stock ecu not being close enough for my optimal tune. it has since developed the same miss on the stock ecu too. makes it very hard to drive and will hesitate or miss even on low load. light load is fine, backing off is fine. have tried lots of combinations of the two plug types and the ecu's, but none fix the issue. car is stock turbo, full exhaust, front mount..etc.

will you have the patience to watch us learn? otherwise spectating as usual.

just had a new plenum to go in, spent 3-4 nights removing the stock one and doing a major service etc., made up some intercooler piping for it, then found that while it is for an rb25, i need a different air regulator (located under the stock plenum, attatched to the water rail) and also one of the threads for the aac was completely stripped so i couldn't have torqued it down on that gasket, i have to bore out the hole on the aac and then fit a larger bolt and retap the hole on the plenum to suit... too many things. so i spent about 7-8hrs today in the rain putting everything back in just how it was, with new gaskets etc. all i have to show for about 15-20hrs work is a gtr thermostat housing and new coolant. *&%$

no idea, not down for driving anyway but i was planning to visit if they'll have me.. car is in pieces atm for 6 days now

well then we will have to have 41+ try and spread the word, even jem had quite a turnout from us locals, $50 is nothing and they are always a great day out

they are all piking it! i dont think anyone even took videos, the bums lol. i might give the rwd turbo title a crack.. i could have easily been a lot faster than i was. esp in the final lol i stuffed up terribly

wheres c&v? i cant be bothered looking it up im usually in for this stuff tho