jeffworld2

its ok, i only need one lol im in for this,

if your in a serious collision and there is fuel or oil pissing out everywhere, or even if the radiator is busted and you've lost all your water... common sense would suggest you kill the ignition before you: 1: damage the engine 2: burst into flames or explode pull the key out, but the timer kicks in and your dead

run the oil lines through the reo bar, like in the hks pic. you dont need to get that extreme with the ducting tho, thats an awesome setup. mine sits in the passenger side guard, its closest to where the oil filter goes so keeps the lines neat.

if its still a similar size it cant be that bad

i am also running around with plastic held by duct tape, it works fine. also cut up the top half of the box so that the inlet is the whole side not just the back half, as i thought i would be losing out by removing half the snorkel. run a pipe straight to the underside of the snorkel from the stock intercooler pipe hole and thats your cai. with both happening i have no loss over a pod, perhaps its better lol. downside to those who care is no bov noise because it is damped heavily by the tape. meh. when you hit 10-12 psi you can hear it whoosh a bit still.

what hours? shit all money for full time

yeah i thought my car doesnt roll, and it doesnt lol. but when you spin, trust me it will roll. the photo of me spinning shows exactly that... the back is dead flat but front wheels have moved so much, i couldnt beleive it there must have been some nice twisting action lol the track is not really wet, it just has a river through it the rest was dry. stock wheels are the go if you have some with rubber

so get me a copy lol. arent you in livo? im at crossroads/casula area a lot hint hint

need... more....videos..

where are you from mate

there are a few things it could be. 1. wrong pin height for speedo needle: this will cause wrong speed to be dispayed but generally work fine 2. speedo has been wound back on the new cluster, which can make them do funny nonsensical things 3. the new cluster has been modded for use with a 300/320km/h display. as shown in the group buy thread, a small mod to the circuit board gives a very different reading, but the speedo will still retain smooth movement if this is the case.

no. in fact its bigger, may even be better

yes its the charcoal canister position, and when its missing its a defect, the pod is not fully enclosed so it too is a defect, but yeah a bit of metal will fix that. if you dont understand the concept of "fully enclosed", look at the stock airbox. u cant see the filter and its fed from outside the engine bay= fully enclosed

front/dump in that pic looks stock anyway. if you get a bolt on split dump/front pipe it will be much better. cat backs do shit all , make sure you have a nice big cat with the split dump and you will be flying no matter what you put behind it. (to an extent before i get flamed)

there were 7-8 standing on glenfield station... i guess they were checking tickets.. are they transit officers too? i dont think they have the authority to fine you or even demand you show them a ticket.. oh well. what are they doing that for when there are plenty of p platers out there to catch

just ring nrma mate, a cars a car. if you want to know some common things to look out for, i think there is a sticky called "what to look out for when buying a skyline" or similar in the tutorial/faq section

jack it up and have a look, it may show as a slight fattening of the rail, as it was squished a bit. If you think its only out the tiniest bit and you cant see it, then its probably not out. You should be able to see any damage on the rail. If your reo bar at the front is gone you are more likely to have a bit of warping after an accident if your car is crabbing, check that it had a 4 wheel alignment if its hicas equipped, this is common to a few r32's ive seen. get a lock bar to fix the rear settings permanently or make sure there are no leaks in the system if you want to keep it, as low fluid makes it do wierd things too even at low speeds.

yeah silvias were nuts... cant beleive that yellow and black 180, it had serious pull

i set mine off within 2 days of the car arriving, i wasnt actually that impressed with it. can get much better from fyshwick

im in glenfield, can do it for u easy won't take long maybe, 2-3hrs if the bov goes in easy, if it needs welding i cant help you there. im off for the next 3 days so pm me if you want, or ring me on 0419 472 543. i look after all of the guys from the campbeltown thread and they can vouch for my skills i guess lol.

go into monitor, then 1 channel and move to knock and press next. you won't get a number to show, it will be a bar graph. press up, right or down (dont remember without doing it) and it will show you the maximum you have hit on the right of the bar graph.

im not sure its doing what yours was nytsky, yours was pretty odd.

they are not adjustable, or if they are, only about 10mm either way. they should have grooves everywhere.. On most Ohlins you lift up the bottom of the spring, and the foot it sits on, and inside it sits a circlip which you then put in whatever groove you want... there are no other grooves on your coilovers. are they damper adjustable at all? ie. a little black knob

mate the little screw is holding the throttle open a tiny bit, there is nothing the computer can do to shut it. adjust at the throttle body or aac and fine tune (up) with the powerfc

boot lock and bonnet bulge are the easiest way to tell which body, and ignitor on the cam covers tells the engine is series 1 design. dashboard moulding is different 2