jeffworld2

i thought so too when i saw it, but if they are both sposed to be same quality as the greddy unit, then they ought to look pretty similar. Now we have some market competition on an already well-priced product. Good stuff

looks like a good deal to me, but has anyone tried one? he must have sold them to somebody

i'm heading down the road of a twin turb rb25, and although its too late now i was considering getting a custom manifold made to position the turbos in the same spot as they would be on an rb26, so i could use all the piping and ideas from the 26 setup. Pretty much a 26 manifold with 25 head flange, i didnt go down this path as another oportunity came up. What are your thoughts on this idea, my engine is still in pieces so its not too late to change, if it will end up cheaperish

wherefore to get these adaptor plates? anyone have any? Or have i got to make one up

hi , will take the turbos. thanks pm sent

EOI will purchase depending on final price obviously, if less than $500, definitely

pm sent for BOV

hey mambastu can we get more details on your setup? what manifold u using? If i did twins i would want low mount in my gtst preferably with the stock piping, pretty much what you have in your silvia

pm sent

thats about the best price you could have hoped for, its a bit of work good job

yeah your easy job just got a lot harder

yeah if its been welded on, then you will have a few issues getting it back. you could grind it off at the cat towards the rear of the car, and try and clean it up to find the original face of the cat back. THIS WILL BE HARD if the weld is thick. however, your new catis no doubt better than the old from a legal emissionsy point anyway so there is no need to keep it. if you can ruin it and find the flange for the cat back it will be all sweet. by far the easiest way is to take it to an exhaust shop and get them to make a short length of pipe with a suitable flange for the new cat, and the other end openpipe. they measure back from the join between the cat and cat back of your car as it is and cut the cat back and weld on the new section. if they get the distance wrong, you will be in a world of trouble, and we all know the best way to get it right is to do it yourself. So i personally would carefully grind back to the flange and redrill the boltholes if needed. (the first way). plus the 2nd way will cost you money, and i dont do the whole spending money thing. if its welded to the turbo housing im sorry your basically stuck with it so find this out first. you will need two people, one underneath supporting the entire exhaust and one to undo the bolts on the turbo (4 from the bonnet, 2 from underneath) to see if it is welded on. once everything is undone including the sensors etc, try and pull it back off the bolts. hopefully its not welded, as thats pretty stupid for someone to do, an exhaust is a consumable, it needs replacing as a normal maintainance thing every 5-10 yrs or whatever good luck buddy p.s. guys in an exhaust shop may be smarter than me and have a better way then replacing a straight section of the cat back.

i removed the bolts from the back of the turbo (6), all the sensors and heat shields, and undid the two bolts at the back of the cat and took the whole unit out in one piece...unless its welded to your turbo you can undo either the front or back of the cat depending on wether your leaving it (i got a new one). reuse the gasket from the back of the turbo and i was supplied by batmbl with two new cat gaskets, but the old ones were reusable anyway (i did use the new ones though). when fitting the new exhaust, put it on once without gasket goo and make sure everything including bolts all fits, then take it off and smear the gasket goo all over one side of the gasket and stick it to one end of the pipe, kining up the holes. then smear goo on the other pipe section and then bolt it all up. repeat for the other end and voila. the rear section of my exhaust had to be pulled forward a bit (20mm) but that was just a matter of fitting the bolts to the cat LAST and it moved as i tightened them up. i believe this was just tension from the rear mount, that was lost when i removed the bolts in the first place. In my case it was a direct replacement, it really is just a matter of undoing a few bolts and doing them up again. there are 2 heat shields, one the turbo heatshield was removed by undoing 4 10mm bolts, i thouhgt it was tac welded in place but its not, just a bit hard to maneuvere out. i also removed the heat shield from the actual front pipe to get better access to the bolts on the turbo. Again, 10mm nuts (3). unclip the sensor plug, which is stuck to a bracket on the heatshield, and remove the front pipe with the plug still on, remove the sensor when the pipe is sitting on your driveway its much easier, and move to the new pipe. there is also a sensor on the cat if you are replacing it. with all sensors and shields out of the way, its pretty easy. take your time, the bolts on the cat were pretty easy but the turbo bolts weren't. They will come out, but if they come out a bit and then get stuck, there is rubbish on the thread that came out the back of the other side of the turbo (the top 4 bolts).if so, you may break it if you try too hard, put it back in and cleant the rear if you can with a wire brush or try some spray to penetrate the rubbish and thread. these are all 13mm and i undid them with a ratchet. i did this by myself, it was my first time doing an exhaust and it took about 3-4hrs. It leaked at the rear cat connection when i first turned it on (turn on, get under and feel for the leaks, trust me you can tell). So i removed those two bolts, cleaned up the gasket and used more goo on both sides- fixed. Took for a drivve from campbeltown to ryde and back, via sylvania waters of course, and then tried all the bolts again to make sure they were tight and did the hand leak test. there is plenty of room down there no need to touch the exhaust, you will feel like a fan blowing if it leaks. reset ecu cause i felt like it. really simple to do, just sounds hard. give it a go

the series 1 has a seperate ignitor pack, its on the back of the spark plug cover on its own bracket, the ecu shouldnt care if its in the coils or seperate, it still sends the same signal

hi guys just got home, picked up the cat and pipe from the GPO and the guy was like thank god its taking up a whole shelf lol. then he picked it up, aimed it and yelled BAZOOKA! cheery faces all round thanks heaps it looks absolutely awesome a fair bit of work by the looks of things. hope it fits easy thanks again

take your old dash to peices and press it into a sand pit, thats your new mould.

hi, i have volks tri-stars, they came with wheel nuts that are allen keys, not to be undone with a socket or if so i cant see how. i tried to buy the right size allen head, put it on a 400mm 1/2"drive bar and was unable to budge them, where they done with an air ratchet or something or am i doing it wrong? worried what to do if i ever have a flat. any help/ideas appreciated.

please put me down for 1, r33gtst also after a cat, can you do a deal for us or not really lol please pm me details i will pay on the 2nd

best go to a wrecker and find an rb25, then point at it. or buy blue silicone hoses, they bend however you want and will be a good upgrade anyway.

only the passenger seat needs to recline in nsw, as thats needed to get in and out the back seat. drivers fixed is not an issue, in nsw of course dont know about vic

if u go straight to the power for the lights it will be on all the time, your lights are on without the ignition on right? thats why it beeps when you leave them on. you need to splice into the power AFTER the parking lights switch, so it turns on when the parkers are on. u can do this near the ignition keyhole there is a white plug it is a red and blue/silver wire near there, however i installed mine into the console so got power from the illumination of my head deck, which i assume comes from the ciggarette lighter (its a mess in there, dodgy jap installers)

i read somewhere on here 100w is too much for the r33 headlight, melts the projector cup or something, it was in the diy? thread about converting to xenon i think

yes, the bigger the difference in temp the bigger the drop, TRYHRD the 2000hp or so twin turbo v8 commodore did a lot of research designing their intercooler system, which featured four cores and they found the best sized intercoolers for max power was not single or twin, but the 4. in street commodores they had a four page indepth feature on the design and it had similar tests and results to the above. the answer: even one degree cooler makes a difference. So put a partition at least but personably i have the stock box with k & n filter and attacked with a heat gun. radiator shroud on my car is designed to take air from the grille to the intake, and it goes very well. if you notice the difference at night when its cold then you know your car could be better. of course FM intercooler helps too, but stock one seems fine for me. the longer you drive for, the more important it becomes to protect your intake. if you drive for 20min its going to be hotter under there than when you first turn it on. its basically free power if you build a partition yourself so why not. also make sure to get fresh air into your box/partition, why breathe your underbonnet air when you can get stuff from outside.

alright guys, killing it tomorow ill let you know how it goes. im surprised no1 actually did this yet. in all my cars i only ever used air con so it would still work when i sell it, this one i dont want to sell so quick. thanks for the advice

interested in the driver vent, its the a'c vent in the pic right? will need frieght to sydney though 2167, are you willing to send