jeffworld2

thanks guys. yea it never worked, never got it regsaassed from japan so its been sitting degassed. all it is is that when i turn it on with auto i have to turn it off a/c button to get the fan. revs still rise as compresor takes power but air is no good. if ive been without it since january (summer and winter) i figured just rip it out stop the hassles, lose some weight and free up the engine. am i right or is it not worth it? im reasonably sure all lines will be stuffed by now or at least growing some kind of diseases lol. how is the compressor mounted to the block is it cooled at all or a stand alone jobbie i can take off without anything to cover?

hi. car is r33 S1 GTST, (RB25DET) im wondering what needs to be done to remove a/c from the car, as mine doesnt work i would just like to remove/disable it. wondering what needs to be done to remove the belt if there is one, ie does it put the engine off balance to remove it or is it safe. if anyone has any experience doing this for drag or whatever i would appreciate some advice. thankyou

just use ryco/cougar/valvoline-you know what i mean. makes little difference, as long as you change the oil as regularly as you should. All oil filters will be called 145a? just did a change on my car used a ryco and motul 4100 car is noticeably smoother im very impressed. As for fuel filter im not sure, but will soon be changing mine too

can this belt just be removed? im not a fan of air con, and want less pulleys to turn. if so, will the heater and fan still work, i assume the belt is just for the compressor

that goes to the boost controler and the wastegate, if your looking at the same part i am, the hose thats holding up that loose clamp on the cooler pipe. ...its pretty important lol perhaps you can plumb it somewhere else though? just needs to be before the throttle body but close as possible is better to get accurate boost signals. someone enlighten us please

im in for r33 gtst series one if you start another..didnt know you were going to pull the plug on this one, so this is my eoi

im doing some work on an r31 with a friend, one night we had a fluro lamp we hooked up to the battery and when we tried to start it again it was a no go. we hadnt had the alarm on, but it must have gone passively. we have the beeper but it is in bad shape and had a flat battery, we put in the battery from another key, and were able to set off the alarm and turn it off again, but then it beeped a few times and we were still unable to start it. pressing the button again gives no reaction, but the battery still operates the other controller it came from (different car). There doesnt seem to be a spot for a mechanical key on the black box under the bonnet. im stumped. the only identification on the system is M400. is there any specific help from anyone or advice on how to unwire the thing altogether, maybe theres a fuse somewhere or something, there was one near the black box but it was not blown. car has been off the road for two years and will be for a month or two longer, so i have time for any suggestions. please give me you ideas

so what weights are good for rb25det? lowest possible and then 40 weight? or is 30 or 50 better for an engine with around 80 000k

or u could buy a factory plastic gtr bumper, but if it doesnt fit theres no point its a waste of 900 or whatever, hence the question

hey sorry to hijack youse fred bot i wanderz if fittin r33 GTR front bar to gtst is pozzible easy enough? just want a good looking car with a NON-FIBREGLASS front bumper lol

actually, that was for na rb20, can someone verify if it willbe the same? i dont see why not, studs are studs. assuming your engine is rb20det i think it will be the same

check http://www.livesockets.com/quoc/rb/ for info and pics, and look up en-76 that is the page of the manual with exhaust manifold crap. tightening torque is 3.9-4.9nm or 0.4-0.5kg/m depending on your measurement for the manifold cover. Studs are 27-31nm or 2.8-3.2kg/m. yokes are all different as someone said, cylinders 3 and for are 22's, others are 24's. geez its nice when you have an engine manual

zappn where does the hose on the top nipple of the boost solenoid go? looks like that could be it to me cant really see but maybe its set up wrong. the hose from the opposite end of the controller to the screw should go straight to the intake after the turbo somewhere..like a cooler pipe or something, the side hose goes to the wastegate. follow the lines and make sure thats whats happenin my rb25 holds at 7psi atm as clutch is cooked, so 12 is a bit much. maybe neo is different the setup looks similar though

dude just email him at TURBOTECH@AANET.COM.AU ? think that was it. just say how much for a thing and hell say x, this will be your number . i eamiled him there he replied through another persona "simark" but yeah he got it said 35 delivered and i sent money and email that was it. answered my first email but not the rest, but who cares unless something went wrong, seemed safe enough to me gave me a order number and everything

thanks a lot guys especially soulblighter.. those will be some handy contacts i think thats what i really needed cheers.

After a new clutch for my stockish r33 (10psi stock turbo, exhaust) and have NO IDEA where to pick one up from or who to install for me in the sydney southwest area, like campbeltown, liverpool etc. I am willing to travel but prefer closer obviously. i was thinking an exedy sports organic ( NSK-7056SO ) or even just a heavy duty ( NSK-7056HD ) links, contacts and prices welcomed please

After a new clutch for my stockish r33 (10psi stock turbo, exhaust) and have NO IDEA where to pick one up from or who to install for me in the sydney southwest area, like campbeltown, liverpool etc. I am willing to travel but prefer closer obviously. i was thinking an exedy sports organic ( NSK-7056SO ) or even just a heavy duty ( NSK-7056HD ) links, contacts and prices welcomed please

hey not sure but hope this is only a clutch problem.. when driving...even 2nd 3rd gear, perhaps even first its hard to tell i dont stay in for long enough, i get the engine flaring a bit with out making the car go any faster.. this to me sounds like clutch slippage (yes im a noob to manuals). Take up point isnt overly close to the top and it only at about 2500rpm + when the turbo spools. im wondering if i have to adjust something like the pedal travel thing but im not sure if that will give me more take up. This has all started in the last 200kms very quick and very slippy. Car is still driveable but no way of using the power i have. Car is R33 with stock turbo at 8psi full time. any suggestions? im not really sure if its that the clutch is fully goone or if it needs something else i need some help thanks guys

man just installed it, couldnt wait warmed up the car then stopped shoved it in on the side of a 70 road then checked what boost...it was a little bit "infinite" for my liking i had wound it out as far as possible and was expecting less than stock. turns out i used the wrong hose and after i figured it out (no net on the roads edge) it pulled to the mark between +7 and 0 on my stock r33 boost gauge.. in 2nd at like 2000rpm! kicks in hard used to sorta build over a second now its just bang. im not one to go over 3-4k rpm so im very happy with the result. on r33 gtst, it is the two LARGEST DIAMETER hoses that are connected to the controller, everything else you can block or remove. Stock solenoid is taken out of the loop by removing the t piece and its small hose and plugging the other hose with a screw or similar. use the existing clips to hold the hoses to the controller and shazam u pull like a v8. a big v8.

just got mine ine the mail! cheers buddy ill shove it in the weekend and see how it goes. took aa bit over a week to arrive but it says next day delivery lol. Dont really care as long as it gets here looks pretty good. thanks a lot to vape looks easier now

hey guys just wondering ive been reading this thread for months and havent actually found any for sale on ebay or on the forums, whats the contact details for the bloke is he still making them? saw some red ones on ebay but was worried about dodgieness if it wasnt the same materials, they were more expensive too