jeffworld2

yup grind off. Its been done before.

Thanks to all that responded, I ended up heading out to Revolution Racegear on Parramatta road Auburn, was very well looked after and picked up all the other little bits i needed. Ended up with a 3" 4 point rpm harness with a crotch strap, that way i can run it with 4 of 6 as the clip is on the lap belt whereas the dedicated 6 point it is on the crotch. Think i will go back though as i want a new race seat now too. There is some sexy gear there.

I hope the crotch strap doesnt affect my willingness to brake lol Looks like a 5-6 point with 3" straps and decent buckle. I will check out RPM too. Thanks for your help guys. Any reason why Revolution racegear has the rpm harnesses for 150? seems too cheap

Anyone reccomend a harness for a dedicated track car? Obviously wouldn't be asking if money was no issue so i would be looking for a good harness for reasonable dollari Have searched but most threads are from 2007/8 there must be something better out now

you are missing a section of the loom, unfortunately. you can either bodgey something up (hard without the plugs) or try and find one For the record my r32 gtr idles happily at 1000rpm without even the vacum box etc. just the plenum (all holes blocked obviously) with standard ecu

i recently had a brake place make up lines for me, for both fronts was less than $50. Get them to make them straight out of steel and bend them youself in the car so if they dont fit its your own fault Really was easier than i thought it would be. ring around

have all 4, $50 in petersham or campbelltown, or work in darling harbour i guess. send pm if interested

please see the diagram. Thanks guys

After the check valve for a gtr, pretty sure it doesnt matter if its for r32,33,34 etc and may even be the same for gtst's Anyway im after one fairly urgently hopefully someone has one around. cheers

fyi you can use coupe parts for the front end

could you do shorter mounts AND space out the k frame?

faulty ecu earth could be a number of things.. most of the earths collect in a small brown plug near the ecu where they are bridged together, as well as the 4 or 5 pins in the ecu that are earths. Obviously the ecu has power and so is earthed but it may be the sensor wiring is damaged or misconnected ie wrong wire, or even one of the switches on the board is not operating or has burnt out in which case a new ecu is probably in order. I vaguely remember with the power fc hand controller i had the afm off the inlet pipe but still connected and i was blowing through it watching it go from 0 to 0.34v or something like that. get someone to watch the pc and see if it changes when you blow through. I have also had some interesting issues with running different series gtst afm's on cars, maybe you should look at the plug end, especially if thats ever been changed. A series 2 afm for example on a series 1 you need to leave one of the 2 sensor earths disconnected.

Fuel pump is easy. turn the car on and grab the hoses to the fuel rail. if you can feel the pulsing, then your pump is on, also listen for the injectors clicking. If your car starts, and idles, thats a good sign. Disconnect the afm plug and if it changes, the afm was good lol. Plug it back in. The easiest way to really check an afm is to borrow a power fc with hand control and see what voltages its spitting out If you let us know specifically what you are chasing we may be able to help you out a bit better

yup, we basically seamed it with the tig. Its going nowhere

Ok... I'll try and show whats happening. i am that bored. Assuming your actuator solenoid has 2 ports to be used: Generally you can block the small hose on the return pipe when fitting a 2 port actuator instead of the factory 3 port

I would recomend drilling actually, so much simpler. there is even a lil dot on the pipe where you should do it.

unfortunately theres not too much out there in gtr fitment land without spacers. even more unfortunately, there is no reason 18s should stop you getting rego unless they are 11 inches wide or something with bald tyres. You may need to find someone in melb to swap for the day, and in that case you might be better off in the melb section

are you getting the boost source for the actuators from the bov return line? (your red line) thats not right That is the line to return the air "bled off" from the factory boost control into the metered airflow If you want to get a compressor feed from the turbo side you pretty much need to drill and tap one on the "twin turbo" tube or intercooler hose

Just went through a bit of clutch drama, check my other thread and see if thats your issue. I found during bleeding that if i had the nipple closed i couldnt get the slave to move with someone pressing the pedal. I was bleeding it to nothing the first time and was getting nowhere... finally with a clear hose sunk in brake fluid i was able to get it flowing and with the nipple shut i could see the slave start travelling. It seems impossible to do it without sucking it back through that way. On my road car i have kept the U, which is the air seperator, however on my race car i have the slave fed straight from the master output line. Much easier to bleed lol.

Its the 2 clutch cylinder bolts and one up the top of the bracket under the dash, and one pin for the pedal to the piston rod. I pulled the dash cluster out but you could do it all from underneath if you had to. I didnt know what was there so i made it so i can see. Nismo one may be stronger, but at the same time i dont see how i could break this one after its been tigged up. Factory one is held by a couple of spot welds only but obviously lasts for others

smear it with liquid gasket and shove it in, hit it with a bit of wood for it to squish in. I doubt any shavings will come off as your not shaving anything. If they do come off its in your water not your oil which is no biggie.

Seems to have all the answers but thinks air is going in the afm and out the bov when its open on idle. I think its because he knows everything Vaccum would pull air in through the bov, with less coming in the afm. think for a second and you will see whats going on here

Hi all Just had a problem with my r33 which got progressively worse over maybe 200km of driving. Started off it was getting hard to select a gear with the engine running, then i was fighting to push through the gates. ended up with pedak to the floor it would stall when trying to put it in first or grind instead of reverse... great I bled the clutch properly hoping to get more travel in the pedal as from under the car it looked inconsistent at the operating cylinder, bled over and over trying to figure it out then when chasing leaks i noticed the top of the clutch pedal was travelling back towards you as you pushed it in. The pedal mount had cracked at the spot welds. Good mate tigged it back up after removing it and now the clutch feels more direct than it has for a while. Much cheaper than pulling the gearbox to do synchros

If you are trying to chase a wire that is shorted to the chassis, you will find a hell of a lot of them. they are called grounds. Run a new wire from relay to pump neatly under the carpet etc. and get back to driving.

Hi Im trying to get a car running and would like some help with the 26 loom, i need to know where to put power into it from battery and ignition. I have belled out the injectors to near the afm's and fed power to the resistor pack there. I am assuming that somewhere on this big combo plug is power for the rest too but can't seem to bell it. Car itself has no loom whatsoever so im running everything from the battery isolator through fuses/whatever.. making it up as i go? lol